How to choose a digital camera with a clear image. What camera should you buy if you are seriously interested in photography, but are not yet a professional? Good inexpensive high quality cameras

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Have you decided to buy a digital camera? Let me congratulate you. This is one of the best ways punch a gaping hole in the family budget. It is most likely useless to dissuade you, so I will simply tell you how to choose a digital camera so that this choice causes you minimal financial and psychological damage.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to give unambiguous, universal recommendations on choosing a camera for an abstract beginner photographer, since the needs of all photographers are different. Different photographic tasks require different equipment. A camera that suits me completely may turn out to be completely unsuitable for you. Despite this, I will still try to highlight here specific models of digital cameras that, in my opinion, meet the requirements of the widest range of photographers.

What you should pay attention to

Marketers never tire of brainwashing naive amateur photographers with those camera parameters that can easily be measured numerically (resolution, ISO, zoom ratio, etc.), although they say very little about the suitability of the camera for real shooting outside the walls of a photo store.

The resolution of the camera (more precisely, its matrix) is measured in megapixels (Mp), i.e. in the number of points that make up the camera’s matrix, and therefore the images obtained with its help. Today, the resolution of digital cameras exceeds the capabilities of their lenses, and what is much sadder, significantly exceeds the capabilities of most photographers who shoot with these cameras. Ten megapixels is enough for anyone, but today it is difficult to find a camera with a lower resolution. Instead of resolution, pay more attention to the physical size of the matrix - the larger the size (i.e., the smaller the crop factor of the matrix), the better. All other things being equal, a larger sensor is more sensitive to light, has a larger dynamic range and is less noisy.

ISO is a standard for the sensitivity of photographic material (in our case, a digital matrix) to light. The maximum ISO value indirectly characterizes the camera's ability to shoot in low light conditions, but we should not forget that increasing sensitivity inevitably leads to noise. What good is the manufacturer's stated maximum ISO value of 102400 if it is impossible to use in practice, since the image will be a solid red and blue mess? Compact cameras with small sensors always perform horribly at high ISOs. DSLRs look much better, but also require common sense.

Zoom ratio simply refers to the ratio between the maximum and minimum focal length of a zoom lens. For example, a lens with a focal length of 18-55 mm is essentially a 3x zoom (55 ÷ 18 ≈ 3), although the concept of zoom ratio itself is more often used in relation to non-replaceable lenses of compact cameras. The zoom factor taken without regard to focal length makes no sense and should certainly not serve as a criterion when choosing a camera or lens, and here’s why: firstly, it says nothing about specific focal lengths. For example, two completely different lenses may have the same 5x zoom: 24-120 mm and 80-400 mm. Secondly, you have to pay for versatility in quality - 30x ultrazooms physically cannot provide decent sharpness, and their aperture ratio is low; and therefore do not chase zoom lenses with prohibitive magnification. A convenient set of focal lengths is much more important than the zoom ratio. To compare lenses, it is appropriate to use the concept of equivalent focal length, because it allows you to take into account differences in sensor sizes between different cameras.

Digital zoom is not only useless, but even harmful to some extent. Having nothing to do with optics, digital zoom simply stretches part of the image using camera software, which creates the illusion of being closer, but leads to a noticeable loss of quality. In the same way, you can enlarge an image in Photoshop.

The most important and most stubbornly ignored parameter by sellers when choosing a camera is ergonomics - how comfortable the camera fits in the hand, how quickly it allows you to respond to changing shooting conditions, how well thought out the management of the most important settings is, and whether traveling through the menu takes too much time. Convenience is an individual issue. You can finally make sure that a particular camera is right for you only by picking it up.

Some parameters you just need to be able to interpret. For example, heavy weight is not an advantage in itself, but may indirectly indicate the mechanical strength and reliability of the camera, and high speed continuous shooting almost always signals that the camera is suitable for reportage work.

And one more important piece of advice: never listen to consultants in photographic equipment stores. Their goal is to sell you a camera, preferably at a more expensive one, and not at all to improve your photos. Only a practicing photographer can know which camera is really good and which is not.

You can get more detailed information about what criteria should be used when choosing a digital camera and optics for it from the following articles: “What is a professional camera”, “Camera parameters” and “Criteria for choosing lenses”. About what else, in addition to a camera, an amateur photographer will have to acquire, is described in the article “Starter kit of photographic equipment”.

DSLR cameras

Nikon FX

Nikon currently produces five full-frame models: D610, D750, Df, D810 and D5. Camera sales around the world are now falling, and if you do decide to buy a digital camera, Nikon will prefer that the camera be full frame - simply because it is more expensive.

Of course, we are all very sad that the poor Japanese capitalists are losing money, but do you really need full frame? The difference in image quality between DX and FX cameras today is minimal, and mainly manifests itself in slightly less FX noise at high ISOs.

Canon APS-C

Canon APS-C cameras have a sensor with a crop factor of 1.6, i.e. slightly smaller than Nikon DX. Canon cameras are better suited for shooting video, and this is a reason to take a closer look at them if video shooting is interesting to you. I myself am skeptical about shooting video with a DSLR camera, but you are entitled to have your own opinion.

Canon has seven current APS-C models: 4000D, 2000D, 200D, 800D, 77D, 80D and 7D Mark II.

4000D, 2000D, 200D and 800D are amateur cameras. The Canon EOS 2000D is a great camera for a beginning photographer - small, light and not too expensive. The Canon EOS 200D is even more compact, but therefore has only a minimum of external controls, which, however, is partly compensated by the presence of a touch screen. Canon EOS 800D is a slightly more advanced, but still amateur model. The Canon EOS 4000D is a stripped down (to say the least worse) version of the 2000D.

Canon Full-Frame

Canon today produces four full-frame models: the 6D Mark II, 5D Mark IV, 5Ds and 1D X Mark II. The Canon EOS 1D C doesn't count because it's designed for video, not photography.

Compact cameras

No compact camera can match the speed of operation of a DSLR, and few can compare in image quality, but when a camera is required to fit into a pocket, DSLRs are completely unacceptable due to their size.

Obviously, if you only need compactness, without regard to image quality and ergonomics, then the camera built into a mobile phone can easily replace a real camera. Another thing is that even the simplest soap dish is still more convenient to take pictures than with the most advanced smartphone.

By a simple point-and-shoot camera I mean something like Nikon Coolpix A10. This budget camera costs $150, has a 1/2.3" format matrix (crop factor 6), a good universal zoom lens and takes pictures much better than most phones, and besides, it runs on standard AA batteries, which is very helpful when traveling.

The problem is that if a person is satisfied with the quality of the image obtained using a 1/2.3" format matrix (or 1/1.7" for more expensive soap dishes), then in most cases he will be satisfied with the quality that the matrix produces mobile phone- For social networks Any rubbish will do. As for ease of use, it’s rare that a smartphone owner will agree to pay extra for a separate device with real buttons. He is used to the touch screen and does not realize that in some situations archaic buttons are much more convenient.

However, lovers of extreme recreation and tourism may like one of the protected compacts, say, Olympus Tough TG-5 for $500, which has a waterproof shockproof case, a built-in GPS receiver and thermometer, as well as a small 1/2.3" format matrix.

I don’t recommend advanced compact ultrazooms to anyone for the reason that their matrices are still just as tiny, but in terms of size and price, ultrazooms are very close to budget DSLRs. It’s possible that I don’t understand something, but, in my opinion, if a camera looks and costs like a DSLR, but shoots like a cheap point-and-shoot camera, then it’s a bad camera and you shouldn’t buy it.

The more expensive ones stand apart compact cameras with large matrices. The idea behind these cameras is to get maximum image quality while minimum sizes apparatus.

Editor's Choice – Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II for $650, equipped with a 1" format sensor (2.7 crop factor) and a zoom lens with an equivalent focal length of 24-100 mm at f/1.8-2.8 aperture. Why exactly 1"? After all, there are compact cameras and larger formats, up to full-frame? That’s true, but more and more serious compacts have dimensions that no longer allow them to be considered truly compact. And if the camera no longer fits in your pocket, isn’t it better to buy a real DSLR instead for less money and enjoy life? At the same time, the G7 X and other similar cameras provide image quality quite comparable to DSLRs, but at the same time they are practically no different in size from conventional point-and-shoot cameras.

Mirrorless cameras

In principle, it is difficult for me to recommend one of the mirrorless systems to a novice photographer. Their functional advantages over even the simplest SLR cameras are not entirely obvious, and the price of mirrorless cameras is still quite high. A person who switches to a mirrorless system should do so consciously and have a good idea of ​​what he is losing and what he is gaining. A classic DSLR camera always has a better price/performance ratio than a mirrorless camera of the same class. The only unconditional advantage of mirrorless cameras is their relative lightness and compactness, for which you actually pay an additional premium.

If you've made it this far, I would advise you to choose between the Olympus Micro 4/3, Fujifilm X, Sony α and perhaps the Canon EOS M systems. The Olympus system has the best ergonomics and a wonderful variety of lenses, but the Olympus sensor is small (crop factor 2). Sony has both cropped and full-frame models, but the selection of lenses leaves much to be desired. The Fuji system is the golden mean. The Canon EOS M system can hardly be called mature, but Canon mirrorless cameras are compatible (with an adapter) with lenses for EF and EF-S SLR cameras. Mirrorless cameras from other manufacturers are nothing more than compacts with interchangeable lenses and an enlarged matrix. They are of little use for serious photography.

Thank you for your attention!

Vasily A.

Post scriptum

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Photography is much more than just a hobby. This seemingly harmless activity requires a decent investment, the bulk of which is spent on purchasing a good camera. Professional photographers who have made a hobby their main job need expensive equipment that not only has high performance, but also includes a number of subtle, and often completely redundant, functions and settings. However, if you are a novice photographer, we recommend paying attention to the following key parameters of the device:

• Type. Many photography experts complain that compact digital cameras are ideal for beginners, learning which is much easier than learning DSLRs. However, the opposite is also true: if you once learn how to work with SLR cameras, then the photographer will have in his hands a device with a large range of functions and settings that are not available to digital analogues.
• Price. You should not lose sight of this factor, since the price inextricably follows the choice of model. It so happens that digital cameras are much cheaper than SLR cameras, even with comparable (or superior) parameters. However, the latter give greater freedom of creativity, which is the decisive factor in determining the type and price range
• Availability of reference data. Recently, most DSLR cameras are equipped with a built-in reference function, thereby making life easier for beginners in the world of photography. If you are one of those people, look for a model with a similar “trick”.
• Physical dimensions of the matrix. You shouldn't pay much attention to the clever advertising trick about megapixels, since this function is not so important in DSLRs. It is much more important to understand what dimensions the matrix has - the larger its dimensions (even with a resolution of 10 megapixels, which is enough for High Quality photo), the better color rendition, higher sensitivity and less noise even at high ISO values.
• Zoom. A camera for beginners should have at least a 3x zoom, as well as the ability to change lenses. These factors will significantly expand the photographer’s capabilities, at least several times.
• Battery life. Even professionals sometimes need to take several shots in order to achieve the desired effect from a photo. Beginners often face problems with the first shot, so autonomy, which determines the number of possible shots with one full battery charge, is one of the key parameters.
• Availability of automatic settings. At the very beginning of using the DSLR, it will be very difficult for the user to navigate the settings. Therefore, you should give preference to cameras with ready-made parameters for different kinds shooting, be it landscape, portrait or sports.
• Autofocus and exposure detection. The implementation of these two functions in automatic mode will significantly simplify the process of photography for a beginner.

The Best Canon DSLRs for Beginner Photographers

4 Canon EOS 800D Kit

The “golden mean” between the amateur and semi-professional classes. Rotating screen
A country:
Average price: RUB 37,450.
Rating (2019): 4.5

Compared to classic DSLRs for beginners, the model is clearly aiming for the big league. The camera uses 45 cross-type dots to achieve perfect sharpness when viewing through the viewfinder. There is no direct focus point selection. A rotating screen with an electronic level will not allow the horizon to collapse, even if the photographer is shooting from an awkward position. Settings can be controlled remotely via a smartphone using the Canon Camera Connect app. Important point: Location function is not available for this model.

The pros and cons of the device are actively discussed in the comments. On the positive side, they note the transformation of the LCD display into a full-fledged control element, high image quality at ISO up to 3200, and 1080p video recording at 60 frames/sec in NTSC format. In addition, there is a digital video stabilization mode and a 3.5 mm audio jack for an external microphone. There is no input for monitor headphones. There is also no dust and moisture protection.

3 Canon EOS 1300D Kit

Quick start. Large buffer size in JPEG
A country: Japan (manufactured in Taiwan)
Average price: 23,800 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.7

As reviewers say, this is an excellent representative of “anti-crisis” DSLRs with the potential to move beyond amateur photography to a more serious level. The owner will be able to enthusiastically experiment with all the manual settings and shoot with a blurred background in moderately difficult conditions. After exploring the capabilities of a kit lens, you can switch to high-aperture optics and take a fresh look at your camera.

There is a lot of talk online about speed. Don’t be confused by the slow loading of information on the screen after activating the device; the camera is ready to shoot just half a second after turning it on (this already includes the time spent on autofocus). With proper reaction, you will not miss a single valuable dynamic frame. But here’s another point: in RAW format, a series of 7 pictures is taken at a speed of 3 frames/sec., and then the clipboard is filled. You have to wait until the photos are saved on the memory card. There is a solution - shoot in JPEG at maximum quality.

2 Canon EOS 80D Kit

The best shooting parameters (25.8 MP matrix)
Country: Japan
Average price: 54,000 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.8

A mid-range DSLR that can be an excellent “learning device” for beginners, and is also guaranteed not to get lost among advanced-level gadgets. Studying the Canon EOS 80D Kit can last a very long time - going through all the possible modes and functions (especially if you have an extended set of lenses) can captivate novice photographers for several days. However, the result of such “harsh” training can exceed all expectations: naturally talented beginner photographers can see impressive results from their very first work.

But purely technically, the Canon EOS 80D Kit does not bring anything new to the middle echelon. While other semi-budget cameras are equipped with the ability to shoot 4k video, this model serves as a passable improvement on the earlier EOS 70D, and unfortunately does not show anything more than that.

Advantages:

• availability of wireless connection with other devices;
• good dynamic design at low ISO;
• the presence of a built-in interval timer (dedicated to fans of time-lapse photography).

Flaws:

• has purely average technical capabilities;
• high price.

1 Canon EOS 200D Kit

One of the most compact DSLRs. Balance of cost and capabilities
A country: Japan (manufactured in Taiwan)
Average price: RUB 27,990.
Rating (2019): 5.0

The camera weighs only 450 g with dimensions of 122.4x92.6x69.8 cm (length, width, height, respectively). The creators thoughtfully approached the development of a camera for beginners. This model provides the solution that beginners are looking for at the beginning of their journey: the maximum range of technical capabilities at an affordable price. The mirror device with a rotating touch screen supports NFC, Bluetooth and Wi-Fi interfaces, shoots at a speed of 5 frames/sec., CMOS autofocus sensor smoothly tracks the video subject. It's nice to have these features and technologies from the world of professional photography on an amateur camera.

Users also liked the new graphical interface. Colored icons tell you what effect you will achieve when adjusting aperture and shutter speed. This makes life much easier during the learning phase, and later you can switch to standard view. There are models available in black, white and silver, so the DSLR can easily turn into a fashion accessory.

The best Nikon DSLR cameras for beginner photographers

4 Nikon D610 Body

Full frame 24 MP sensor. Two slots for SD memory cards
A country:
Average price: 62,500 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.5

The camera has a 24x36 mm full-frame CMOS sensor with a resolution of 24 megapixels. In combination with the Expeed 3 processor, this guarantees high image detail and minimal noise at ISO up to 3200. The large matrix makes it possible to flexibly work out the depth of field in the frame, and this is a big plus for portrait scenes. Working with a pair of SD drives opens up additional possibilities for the photographer: you can set up data recording one by one, as the media is full, or in parallel on two flash drives. You can also split the JPG recording onto one card, and the RAW recording onto an adjacent one, in order to extract everything you need from the frames.

Positive reviews center around the ergonomic body, high-quality viewfinder and quiet video shooting mode. Relative disadvantages include large dimensions, but for full-frame DSLR devices this is the norm. You will also have to get used to the autofocus features: its points are grouped close to the center of the frame.

3 Nikon D7200 Body

Time-lapse video function. Magnesium dust and waterproof housing
A country: Japan (manufactured in Thailand)
Average price: 54,300 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.6

It implements time-lapse video shooting or, in other words, “Time Lapse” - slow frame-by-frame shooting with automatically set time intervals between frames. In this mode, auto exposure leveling is available, which is important when shooting for many hours with changes in lighting. The owner has the opportunity to record Full HD video 1920x1080 at a frequency of up to 60 frames/sec. The video settings are very conveniently located - this is a whole separate tab in the menu. For high-quality sound recording, you can attach an external microphone to the 3.5 mm jack, and its sensitivity can be adjusted manually in the camera menu.

If you are choosing a DSLR for years, this one is just suitable for difficult use - it is dust and moisture resistant. The owners highlight many subtle settings that confuse the beginner, but in the future will serve as a space for creative experimentation. Therefore, Nikon’s “semi-professional” is considered the best device with prospects for development in the field of photography and videography.

2 Nikon D3500 Kit

The best "friendly" camera for a beginner. Powerful battery
A country: Japan (manufactured in Thailand)
Average price: 31,200 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.7

The information screen is designed taking into account the needs of the novice photographer, so that he can comfortably get used to the DSLR camera. There are several design themes, a large icon to display the opening/closing of the aperture, highlighting of overexposed areas, and a “?” button. with help and recommendations for a specific shooting situation in Guide mode. The “i” button takes you to the quick menu, through which you can control ISO, autofocus, and white balance.

The EN-EL14a 1230 mAh battery has proven itself very well. The declared 1550 frames per charge are confirmed by practice, while users do not deny themselves either long bursts or the use of the built-in flash and Live View mode, and also easily connect to a smartphone via a wireless interface. More commentators note wide range photo processing capabilities directly in the device: brightness, effects, cropping, correction of distorted perspective, etc.

1 Nikon D5300 Body

The best budget DSLR camera
Country: Japan
Average price: 26,000 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.9

An amateur-level camera, created in the image and likeness of the D3300 model. Despite the already brilliant ergonomics of the mentioned camera, the Nikon D5300 Body has been further developed, fortunately not for the worse. The main changes affected the internal filling and related technical characteristics. The resolution of the new matrix was 24.78 megapixels, which clearly indicates an internal corporate struggle for every hundredth of a pixel in order to improve the final photographic result. The same effect is achieved through painstaking work on the balance of settings in order to enhance color rendition and related aspects. Another qualitative leap has been made in the area of ​​the “weak link” of all budget-medium Nikon DSLRs: good sensitivity finally allows shooting at ISO 1600, avoiding graininess and loss of quality. Considering this amount of useful work, buying a Nikon D5300 Body can be an excellent financial investment.

Advantages:

• adjustment of the sensitivity of the matrix and the possibility of high-quality shooting at ISO 1600;
• the presence of a time-lapse function;
• high quality photos.

Flaws:

• Still the same slow Live View mode.

The best DSLR cameras from other brands for beginner photographers

3 Sony Alpha ILCA-68 Kit

Best shooting quality
Country: Japan
Average price: 54,000 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.7

Some users claim that the redesigned version of the Alpha ILCA-77 Kit series camera is still professional, although it lacks many key functions. In fact, the lightweight version of the device is a device on a completely different level, closer to beginners or amateurs than to true masters of photography.

As with all models Sony, in the Alpha ILCA-68 Kit everyone clearly stands out character traits The signature feature of the device is a small 2.7-inch rotating screen, a reduced width, and a lightweight body, which adds convenience when taking photographs. By the way, you can take high-quality photos at ISO values ​​up to 1600 and only in jpeg format. If noise reduction still has any effect here, it is completely absent in the RAW format, which is more convenient for subsequent processing (and storage). 24 megapixel resolutions are implemented perfectly - with the right settings, you can achieve an excellent balance of color depth and naturalness, which is so lacking in many competitive cameras.

2 Pentax KP Kit

Thoughtful personalization with interchangeable overlays. High light sensitivity
A country: Japan (manufactured in the Philippines)
Average price: 76,150 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.7

At Pentax we see the most respectful approach to the buyer and ergonomics. The manufacturer complements the package with three interchangeable handles of different configurations, so that each photographer can adapt the body to his own hand. To do this, you only need a hex wrench and a minute of free time. Many installation options in the menu, a large number of functional buttons on the camera are a guarantee of a fun-filled pastime for fans of the brand and photography enthusiasts.

The matrix was “brought up” to ISO 819,200: of course, at maximum sensitivity values ​​the picture will be noisy. The point here is different - you will get the highest quality at medium and low shutter speeds. From the reviews it follows that on a PC monitor noise clearly manifests itself with ISO6400, and photo printing on A3 format shows a decent picture even with ISO 12800. Fans of landscape photography will like the automatic horizon leveling function: the matrix can adjust the tilt angle up to 1.5⁰.

1 Pentax K-70 Kit

Better image clarity. Pixel Shift Resolution Technology
A country: Japan (made in China)
Average price: 69,300 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.8

One of the most interesting features of a DSRL camera is the viewfinder - it displays 100% of the frame area. The field of view is slightly darkened, which will seem an advantage in bright light and a relative disadvantage in the dark. The manufacturer claims that it used hundreds of seals for the magnesium body, so the SLR camera will withstand even tropical downpour conditions with dignity.

Now about the main thing – the quality of the photos. The “Pixel Shift Resolution” technology with a movable matrix mount has been implemented. This ensures image stabilization and the highest clarity in all details. To get a super-sharp frame, the camera seems to “stitch” 4 pictures - the result is sharp and more voluminous. Users suggest that you will get the ideal effect when shooting static objects: objects, architecture, landscapes, especially in combination with a tripod, self-timer, remote control and mirror locking.

The best mirrorless camera for beginner photographers

4 Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III Kit

Advanced Photo – a block of programs for technically complex photographs
A country: Japan (made in Vietnam)
Average price: 46,860 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.3

The device is small and comfortable, the grip is thought out to the smallest detail: three fingers of the right hand rest on the front part, and on the opposite side there is an expressive protrusion for the thumb. The control wheels remain as large as on older models - a very practical move. The camera is not much larger than a smartphone in size and weight, it fits in a pocket or a handbag, and even during a long excursion the owner will not experience any discomfort from carrying it. The standard M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ lens is a miniature “pancake”, that is, the diameter exceeds the length.

In the Advanced Photo menu, beginners will try their hand at collage mode (stitching together several frames), Live Time (shooting with bulb shutter speed), multiple exposure (a series of photos and sequential overlay), HDR (high dynamic range), silent shooting (only electronic shutter), panorama, distortion correction, focus bracketing (expanding depth of field).

3 Fujifilm X-T100 Kit

Original retro design. Diopter adjustment
A country: Japan (made in Indonesia)
Average price: 41,890 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.5

Introducing a camera stylized to resemble classic film technology. At the base of the “carcass” is plastic, and on top is aluminum with an anodized coating in black, gold or black-silver. Aesthetes will definitely be pleased appearance devices. The electronic viewfinder has a diopter adjustment wheel so that photographers with vision problems do not experience discomfort.

All Fujifilm mirrorless cameras have built-in presets (saved sets of settings) simulating the legendary branded photographic film. It’s very interesting to experiment with film effect modeling in photo and video mode; variations are available: PROVIA/STANDARD, VELVIA/VIVID, ASTIA/SOFT, CLASSIC CHROME, PRO Neg Hi, PRO Neg. Std, Sepia and five monochromes. Conclusion: despite all the vintage “atmosphere”, the device is quite understandable to the new generation with their love for smartphones, blogs and video broadcasts. Auto mode and story programs produce very decent results.

2 Canon EOS M50 Kit

The best set of characteristics. Entry-level mirrorless camera with 4K video recording
Country: Japan
Average price: 42,900 rub.
Rating (2019): 4.6

The main advantage of the new DIGIC 8 processor is the ability to shoot video in 4K format (3840x2160 pixels at 25 frames/sec.). Please note this is not flagship model, and equipment for amateurs at an adequate price. There is an eye autofocus function, but it only works with stationary people, in classic portrait photography, For example. In general, there are 3 autofocus methods: zone, selected point and subject tracking.

The owners call the inability to recharge the battery via USB an annoying little thing; for this purpose, a network charger is used. The lightweight polycarbonate body and compact dimensions allow you to carry the model either in your hands or in your jacket pocket. The buyer can choose from two color versions: in the usual black design and expressive white with gray inserts. The light-colored device looks unusual and attracts the attention of passers-by, especially if combined with the signature silver lens.

1 Sony Alpha ILCE-6000 Kit

4D autofocus Shooting speed. "Open" mount
A country: Japan (manufactured in Thailand)
Average price: RUB 38,490.
Rating (2019): 4.8

Let's start with the main advantage of a mirrorless camera, namely, the shooting speed, which reaches 11 frames/sec. Mirror analogues at a similar price are simply not able to provide such indicators. Further - more: Sony engineers created an “open” E mount, that is, third-party optics developers can develop fully compatible lenses. The working distance of the mount is very small, only 18 mm, which means that any optics in your arsenal will work with the adapter.

4D focus, which replaced contrast autofocus, was a real breakthrough in mirrorless technology. Its essence lies in the improved operation of automation, in 4 dimensions at once. 179 phase detection sensors interact with the object, covering 92% of the width and 91% of the height of the frame, the distance to the object is also controlled, and the future direction of movement in the next second is taken into account. Tracking focusing works excellently with a movement trajectory of any complexity. The best choice for dynamic scenes.

Welcome again to my blog! I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. I receive a lot of letters with the same phrase: “Recommend an inexpensive and good camera,” so I decided to write this article.

It is possible that you are good at taking pictures with a phone or other point-and-shoot camera, have your own blog with your pictures, but at some point you decided to get better at photography in order to get high-quality and clearer pictures. What will you do? Of course, you will want to buy a more sophisticated camera.

Today I will review the camera ranges and tell you which camera is best to buy for a novice photographer! Let's begin!

First, decide how far you want to go as a photographer. Do you just want to do amateur photography or do you want to develop and conduct photo shoots and shoot events? Once you make your final decision, you need to start choosing a camera.

Three types of cameras, their advantages and disadvantages

There are three types of cameras:

• Soap dishes;
• Mirrorless with removable optics;
• Mirrored.

Advantages of soap dishes:

• Light weight and size;
• Automatic shooting only. No photography skills required;
• Low price.

Disadvantages of soap dishes:

• Lack of ability to control frame construction;
• Lack of interchangeable lens;
• No manual mode.

Advantages of DSLR cameras:

• Shooting capability high-quality photo under any conditions;
• Availability of a high-quality matrix;
• Availability of manual settings;
• Replaceable optics.

Flaws:

• Large weight and size - sometimes more than 1 kg;
• Expensive. The price starts from 30 thousand rubles.

The main difference between a mirrorless camera and a DSLR

I want to separately review the main difference between mirrorless cameras and SLR cameras, which is the type of viewfinder. If for SLR cameras it is optical, then for hybrid cameras it is display (electronic).

Let's look at the advantages of each viewfinder. It’s worth noting right away that the disadvantages of these two types of cameras will be mutually inverse.

Advantages of the electronic viewfinder:

1. Low price with good technical parameters;
2. Larger image;
3. A camera with this type has smaller dimensions;
4. The ability to take photographs in any position of the camera: looking in front of you, lowering it below or raising it above your head;
5. The shutter release is less audible because there is no working mirror.

Advantages of an optical viewfinder:

1. Natural colors in the viewfinder;
2. Autofocus is more correct and faster;
3. In difficult conditions, for example, in bright sunshine, the image remains clearly visible and clear;
4. Low heating of the matrix, which allows you to detail the image, taking into account only small digital noise;
5. Turning off the display will help extend battery life.

I note that there are cameras with dual viewfinders. All cameras have an optical viewfinder, but only some models also have a display viewfinder, which helps you shoot in any position.

If you are determined to gradually further develop in photography and take breathtaking photographs, then you are in the mood for purchasing SLR photographic equipment.

Types of SLR photographic equipment

Let's look at three categories of SLR cameras and the main top model ranges. From top to bottom we will look at smaller models and move on to more sophisticated ones. model ranges Nikon and Canon. I would like to note that while writing this article, I came across many real reviews from friends about each of these cameras!

Budget amateur camera

• Nikon D3100– an ordinary amateur DSLR for photographing a family. The main disadvantage is that many functions are transferred to the on-screen menu, which makes work difficult.
• Nikon D5100– a DSLR with advanced functionality. It is suitable for those who have experience in photography and their own requirements for the functionality of photographic equipment.
• Nikon D7100- more advanced technology. I think that it is the protected case, 2 slots for memory cards and high-speed shooting 6 fps makes this model and others like it a pretty cool piece of equipment.
• Canon EOS 1000D– a simple camera with a small screen and a 12 MP matrix.
• Canon EOS 600D. It features a rotating screen and Full HD video recording.
• Canon EOS 650D. Has 9 AF points and 5 fps.

Advanced amateur camera

• Nikon D610– photo detail at ISO up to 3200 units, comfortable body and quiet shooting mode.
• Canon EOS 6D has a built-in Wi-Fi module and expanded creative potential.
• Canon EOS 7D– wide 100% viewfinder coverage, 19 focusing points, maximum speed shutter 1/8000s.

Professional camera

• Nikon D810– for photography, 39-point autofocus system, clearer shooting and pictures can be edited without loss of quality.
• Canon EOS 5D mark III– mainly intended for videographers, 61-point autofocus system, good color rendition.

Of course, it's worth remembering that your choice largely depends on your budget. It is worth noting that if you shot on a Canon point-and-shoot camera, then you should give preference to this brand when buying a SLR camera.

The lens plays an important role when choosing!

I want to point out the main feature! If you opt for the expensive Nikon D810 with a kit lens, then the quality of the photos will not be as excellent as you would like! , you can read the article.

Why should beginners not buy expensive photographic equipment right away?

1. The advantages of the camera, which will be used in everyday photography by only 1%, raise the cost of the camera above 50%;
2. If you have not mastered simple skills and terms in photography, then there is no point in buying expensive equipment so as not to understand it at all;
3. A novice photographer will not be able to tell the difference in images taken with different lenses of the same model;
4. Without shooting about 20 thousand frames, you will not have any shooting requirements, and why pay more?
5. Having bought expensive photographic equipment, you need to remember that all the auxiliary accessories will cost a lot of money;
6. Remember! The main thing is not the photographic equipment, but the photographer and his ideas!

Which is better: Canon or Nikon?

Canon and Nikon are top manufacturers of photographic equipment and have been competing for the title of best brand for several years now. It is impossible to compare the advantages and disadvantages of each company objectively, since both manufacturers have their pros and cons in one area or another. Still, I want to conduct a review and find out the disadvantages and advantages of both brands of cameras. So, Nikon or Canon?

Canon Features:

• With the same quality of accessories, Canon's photographic equipment remains 10% cheaper than its competitor's;
• Shooting video – Canon still has the advantage;

Nikon Features:

• Ability to shoot in low light and get excellent images with little loss of quality;
• Autofocus! Nikon focuses faster and better and has a superior number of focus points compared to its competitor. For Canon, this point can become a real problem and even a forced transition to manual shooting.

I wrote in more detail in one of my articles, you can read it.

Author's opinion

In my practice, I have taken photographs with both Nikon and Canon DSLRs. And I’ll tell you one thing, any DSLR, of one brand or another, behaves with dignity in the right hands, and that’s a fact!

Advice. Start with a budget amateur camera, let it be, for example, Nikon D3100 or the more advanced Nikon D7100, but do not go further, even if your budget allows it. Take it together with, it’s always more profitable!

And finally, my dear readers, as I advise my best friends, be sure to check out the video course “” (who has NIKON) or “ My first MIRROR"(who has CANON). These are excellent courses that will help in your endeavors and guide you towards the right way as a photographer. They will open your eyes to the many secrets that a SLR camera holds. These are the courses that are recommended professional photographers, as an initial development.

My first MIRROR- for lovers of CANON SLR cameras.

Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0- for lovers of NIKON SLR cameras.

With this I say goodbye to you and want to wish you good choice an affordable camera with brilliant features that will bring all your ideas to life with ease.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Number of points on the matrix

The main characteristic is usually considered the number of pixels on the matrix; The maximum resolution of the images, and therefore the quality, depends on it.

Theoretically, the more megapixels, the better. However, manufacturers know that buyers primarily look at this parameter, and therefore cheap models are often equipped with matrices with an exorbitant number of megapixels.
Example: the matrix of a professional Canon EOS 5D for 100 thousand rubles is 23 megapixels, and the matrix of a cheap Recam for 3,000 rubles is 21 megapixels. But this does not mean that professional Canon and Recam cameras shoot equally well.

The physical size of the matrix (measured in millimeters) and the hardware and software of the camera are important. In the same Canon, the matrix size is large enough to eliminate digital noise, and the optics provide good focusing. And vice versa, in Recam the small matrix is ​​very noisy, and poor optics do not provide a clear picture.

APS, Four Thirds, Full Frame matrices

• APS are matrices whose width to length ratio is 3:2.
• Four Thirds – matrices with a length to width ratio of 4:3.
• Full Frame - “full-size” matrix, like that of film cameras - 36 x 24 mm.

Crop factor

This is the ratio of the size of the matrix to the size of the frame on film. Standard photographic film had a frame of 36 x 24 mm, and all optics were designed for this size. Today, matrices are usually made smaller; the ratio of the “classic” 36 x 24 frame to the size of a digital matrix is ​​called the “crop factor”. The smaller it is, the greater the chance that it will be a high-quality matrix.

How many megapiskels do you need? It depends on the tasks you set for yourself.
If you want to view photos on a monitor screen, then for HD quality you need 1920x1080 pixels, or only 2 megapixels.
To print with a quality of 300 dots per inch (300 dpi - standard quality) on a sheet of 13x18 centimeters, you need 1600x2200 dots - 3.5 Megapixels, on a sheet of format 20x30 centimeters - you need 2400x3550 dots - 8.5 Megapixels.
As you can see, the needs are very modest.
Tens of megapixels are needed only to later enlarge a fragment of the image, or to compensate for the shortcomings of the matrix - take a large image of “mediocre” quality and reduce it to decent (see “”).

Conclusion: neither the physical size of the matrix nor the number of megapixels is directly related to the quality of the image. The only objective way to evaluate the quality is to take test pictures (see “”).

Zoom

A convenient feature that almost all digital cameras are equipped with (except for special optics for SLR cameras) is the ability to “zoom” - change the focal length.

The statement that “the larger the zoom, the better” is erroneous. Zoom is a value that shows the ratio of the maximum and minimum focal length. How much “goes into the frame” depends on the focal length. For example, if you buy a camera to photograph parties with friends, and the minimum focal length is too long, your friends simply will not fit into the frame. Similarly, a large building on the street will not be included in the frame of a camera with a long focal length (see “”)

Zoom comes in optical and digital versions.
Optical Zoom is an increase using optics (i.e. changing the focal length of the lens). This increase is the highest quality.
Digital Zoom is the stretching of a ready-made image using software; with this stretching, the quality becomes worse (try stretching a small picture to fill the entire screen - and you will see how noticeable the deterioration is). I advise you not to use digital zoom at all when shooting - because... digital enlargement can be done later, in a quiet environment on the computer.

Conclusion: when choosing a Zoom, we pay attention only to the optical one, and be sure to look at the focal length.

Focal length

This is a characteristic on which the viewing angle depends. Remember how many times, when trying to photograph a group of friends, you had to ask them to “stand closer together” or to “move further away” so that everyone would be included in the frame? This means your camera's focal length was too long.
The smaller the minimum focal length, the more “will fit into the frame.”
And vice versa, the longer the maximum focal length, the larger you can shoot distant objects.

The focal length depends not only on the lens parameters, but also on the size of the matrix. Since all matrices in digital cameras are different, they use the concept of “focal length equivalent to film” - i.e. recalculated for the frame size familiar to photographers (on film) 36x24 mm.

Please note that even for interchangeable lenses, many manufacturers proudly indicate the focal length not “equivalent to film,” but specifically for a given lens. For example, Sony proudly writes that its “whale” lens has a focal length of only 18 mm. However, when converted to “film equivalent” the figure turns out to be not 18, but... 28 mm, i.e. Not much goes into the frame. Don't forget about this advertising ploy!
The “equivalent” focal length can also be calculated by knowing the crop factor of the lens: you need to multiply the focal length values ​​by the crop factor.

“Average” values ​​are considered to be 30-90 mm in “film equivalent” (3x zoom). However, it is better to have a minimum focal length of no more than 24 mm, and a maximum focal length of 85 mm.

Conclusion: buy a lens with a focal length of 24 (or less) by 85 (or more) mm.

SLR camera

In the days of film cameras, only “DSLR” cameras could guarantee clear photographs to the photographer. After all, if on conventional cameras the distance to what was being photographed had to be determined manually, then on mirror cameras you could “focus” by looking at the object through the lens. In the viewfinder, the photographer immediately saw how sharp his photo would be: what would be “in focus” and what would be “blurry.”

Digital SLR cameras have the same advantage: you see the future photo not on the LCD screen, but with your own eye. And the “resolution” of the eye is much higher than that of any matrix :-)
However, if you shoot focusing only on the LCD screen, if you are not used to manually focusing, you will not benefit from this advantage.

The second advantage of digital SLR cameras is that they provide the ability to use interchangeable lenses. After all, no matter how perfect the matrix is, without high-quality lens optics it is impossible to take a high-quality photo.
And high-quality optics are very expensive, sometimes several times more expensive than the camera itself. However, if you never intend to use interchangeable lenses, you won’t be able to take advantage of this advantage either.

One of the common misconceptions is that a “DSLR” camera is better than a “regular” one.

A DSLR camera is better only if you use high-quality lenses, which, I repeat, often cost more than the camera itself. If you are not ready to spend money on expensive lenses, it is better to buy “regular” cameras: they show top scores than “SLR” cameras with “whale” (see below) optics. It is better to take a high-quality “semi-professional” camera than a “professional” one without high-quality optics.

Conclusion: if you have a limited budget (and if you do not use manual settings), we buy a regular camera. If you have an unlimited budget (and a desire to adjust as many parameters as possible), we buy a separate SLR camera and separate lenses for it.

Body or Kit (for DSLR cameras)

High-quality optics often cost more than the camera itself. And development electronic technologies does not affect the optics in any way. Therefore, many professionals, when changing a camera, leave the same lenses (and manufacturers make sure that their old optics fit the new models).
In addition, all professionals have different tasks, which means they need different lenses (short-focus, long-focus, portrait, etc.) - so the manufacturer suggests buying a camera separately and a lens separately. This delivery is called “Body”.

“Body” - this means you are buying only the device, without a lens (the lens is for an additional fee).

Since most people who buy DSLR cameras are not professionals and have little idea what lenses they need, manufacturers also sell a “camera + lens” set. This kit includes a “universal” lens – the one that is most suitable for beginners. Due to mass production, such lenses are relatively cheap.
Sometimes the kit includes 2 lenses - short-focus and long-focus (in simpler terms - for shooting at close and long distances).

“Kit” is a SLR camera with a lens (an “entry” level lens, but this level is enough for most amateurs).

Conclusion: If you intend to buy interchangeable lenses from the very beginning, choose a lens and buy “Body”. If you don’t intend to spend money on lenses, buy a “kit” - buying such a set costs less than buying everything separately.

Live View (in DSLR cameras)

The optical system of SLR cameras is designed in such a way that the image appears on the matrix only at the moment of shooting - when the shutter button is pressed, the rest of the time the image passes through the lens into the optical viewfinder.
As a result, only photographs that have already been taken are visible on the LCD screen, and the photographer adjusts the sharpness, shutter speed and aperture only based on his own experience (or taking test shots).

However, with the growing popularity of SLR cameras, manufacturers realized that beginners were increasingly buying them, so the “Live View” mode was invented especially for them, when the camera can switch from “DSLR” mode to “normal” mode. Accordingly, you see the image you are shooting either in the viewfinder - where you can accurately focus, or on the LCD screen - where you can accurately select the shutter speed and aperture values.

“Live View” is convenient because you can evaluate the correctness of the settings (shutter speed, aperture, white balance) even before you take the photo.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a DSLR camera with “Live View” mode.

Now let's look at something that usually eludes the inexperienced amateur photographer...

Noises

One of the most important parameters, which, unfortunately, is never indicated in the specifications, is the amount of digital noise in the image.
You've probably noticed that in some digital photographs, sometimes instead of a uniform tone, some colored stripes are visible - scientifically, these chaotic distortions are called “ digital noise».

Theoretically, the larger the matrix (we mean the physical dimensions, not its resolution) or the lower the power consumption, the lower the noise. But the occurrence of noise is also influenced by thermal processes in the device and, naturally, quality - i.e. technology. In short, there is no direct relationship between the size of the matrix and the presence of digital noise.

The only way to really evaluate noise is to take a few test shots and then test their quality in quiet conditions. (Some stores allow you to take test photos. You only need to have a memory card suitable for this device.)
By the way, all professional cameras are also distinguished by the fact that they have a good noise reduction system - this is necessarily indicated in their characteristics.

Tip: The amount of noise increases as the sensitivity (ISO value) increases. If you want to get good photos, shoot at a minimum ISO.

By the way, the minimum ISO value allows you to immediately understand what class the camera belongs to. If the minimum specifications indicate ISO = 50, this is a sure sign that the matrix is ​​not the best.

Conclusion: we don’t chase the maximum number of megapixels, but check the quality of the pictures.

ISO

ISO is a unit of film sensitivity (like our GOST), if you remember - previously film was sold with 32, 64, 125, 250 GOST units, then it was replaced by imported ones with 100, 200, 400 ISO... The higher the sensitivity, the The lower the illumination you can shoot, or the lower the shutter speed you can set.

I’ll explain with an example: if at a sensitivity of 100 ISO the shutter speed should be 1/10 of a second - and you need a tripod, then at 400 ISO (100*4) - 1/40 (1/10/4) sec is enough, and you can already shoot with hands."

However, nothing comes “for free”: for film, the higher the sensitivity, the larger the grain, i.e. At high magnification it was impossible to convey fine details. There are other restrictions that you can read about in specialized literature. In short, professional photographers preferred not to strive for high sensitivity, but to choose film that suited the shooting conditions.

In modern digital cameras, increasing sensitivity (increasing ISO) comes at the cost of increasing digital noise. As with film, the lower the ISO, the better the quality of the photos you get.

The advertised ISO 3200, ISO 6400, of course, allow you to shoot in very low light, but the digital noise in the images is so great that it is almost impossible to use such images.
On cheap devices, noise already affects ISO 400.

Therefore, manufacturers, knowing about the low quality of their matrices, reduce the minimum ISO. This, by the way, is a sign of a cheap matrix: such cameras have a minimum ISO of 40-60 units.

Conclusion: we pay attention only to the minimum ISO - it is better if it is not lower than 100.

Optics

Optics are the most important part of any camera. Bad optics can be immediately recognized by the presence of a halo in photographs at the borders of objects with different illumination (the contours are not clear, but surrounded by purple and yellow stripes along the edges). Scientifically, such distortions are called aberration.

The quality of the optics can only be checked by taking test shots. Moreover, for test shots it is better to choose objects that are “inconvenient for the camera”: a dark object against a light background, or at least the roof of a house against a bright sky. Distortions occur at the boundaries of the difference in illumination, so for a test shot the difference in illumination of objects in the frame should be as large as possible.

Conclusion: we take test pictures with sharp changes in illumination, and look at the resulting pictures on a computer screen, or on a camera screen with maximum magnification.

Other important parameters that are worth paying attention to:

Manual white balance

A must have for me a good camera, is manual white balance.
What it is? This is an opportunity to tell the automation what should be considered white.

Let's conduct an experiment: take a white sheet and look at it in a room illuminated by incandescent lamps - it will seem yellowish to you, when illuminated by fluorescent lamps - purple, in the twilight - grayish. But gradually we get used to the current lighting, and the leaf again begins to appear completely white to us: our eye adapts to changes in color tones. But if you don’t do color correction when taking photographs, then the pictures will be yellowish, bluish or grayish (and no computer color correction can correct this).

Manual white balance avoids this. You simply point the device at what you think should be white, and the device itself adjusts the color correction.

Cheap models only have preset modes: “street”, “home”, “evening”, “poor lighting”. But in real life this may not be enough.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a device with a function for manually adjusting white balance (beginners can neglect this advice).

Shooting speed and autofocus accuracy

It is worth paying attention to the shooting speed and the correct operation of autofocus. Many people are accustomed to the fact that on conventional cameras, as soon as you press the shutter button, shooting immediately occurs. On digital cameras, the autofocus process is much slower, sometimes you have to wait a second or even longer for the device to adjust. This is not scary if you are shooting a static landscape, but when you need to shoot a moving object, in a second it will have time to leave the frame, or, for example, the person being photographed sitting at the table will have time to turn his head and the picture will be hopelessly ruined.
Again, if on a sunny day there are no problems when shooting outdoors, then at home (to put it more simply - in poor lighting) autofocus can lie, and then instead of a clear picture you get something blurry.

By the way, a low-light warning function would be useful.

What it is? In bright light, the shutter time is less than 1/100 of a second, so it doesn't matter whether you're holding the camera firmly or moving it. But at shutter speeds of less than 1/30 of a second, it is necessary to keep the camera absolutely still (as much as possible) - so it would be nice to have a function to remind you of this.

I won’t talk about how to use autofocus correctly here, although many people forget about it, resulting in blurry pictures.

In a word, we pay attention to the speed of focusing and operation.

Continuous shooting

The number of frames in a series and the number of frames per second - what is it?

In some cases, it can be difficult to pull the trigger at “that very moment”: for example, the finish of a sprint race, or jumping into a swimming pool. For such cases, “serial shooting” is used - i.e. When you press the shutter button, the camera takes several pictures at certain intervals, from which you can then select “the one.”

Another purpose of burst shooting is to take identical shots in different light settings. For example, a series of 5 frames: the first is made much darker than you set, the second is a little darker, the third is made according to your settings, the fourth is a little lighter, the fifth is much lighter. This allows you to avoid mistakes when setting exposure: one out of five frames will probably turn out well.
This differs from regular shooting in that the camera does not “waste time” on setting new shooting parameters, but shoots with those set at the start of shooting (or corrects only individual characteristics). This function has a number of natural limitations: the maximum number of frames per second (which the camera mechanism is capable of making), and the maximum number of frames in a series (limited by the device’s memory buffer).

Frames per second– this is the maximum amount that the device can remove in a second.

Number of frames in a series– this is the maximum number of frames within one series (in modern devices it is often limited only by the size of the flash card).

Matrix backlight

Of course, there is no “matrix backlighting” in this technology - no one shines on the matrix from the back side, although some layers do change places.

To understand how this works, imagine the matrix as a layer cake. The first layer is the base (a durable substrate) on which everything else will be attached. The second layer is LEDs. The third layer is electrical wiring (electrical leads from LEDs). The fourth layer is light filters. Fifth - lenses (microlenses - for each pixel on the matrix).

No matter how thin the electrical wiring (third layer) is, it still reduces the maximum possible surface of the LED. Therefore, they use the “reverse order” of layers - first, all the electrical wiring is mounted on the substrate, and then the LEDs are mounted on it. As a result, now nothing prevents the use of the entire matrix area for LEDs, which means (with the same dimensions) the sensitivity increases.

It is clear that such technology is much more complex and therefore more expensive. A few years ago it was used only for astronomical instruments. But over time, the increase in production costs has become less significant, and today a matrix with “back illumination” is used in “household” cameras.

Night photography without a tripod

The essence of the technology is that instead of conducting long-term shooting, it is divided into time intervals.

Imagine holding the lens open for 4 seconds, turning it 1 degree every second. As a result, you will get a picture where the camera has been rotated by 4 degrees – i.e. rather blurry image. Now imagine that instead of 1 picture in 4 seconds, you took 4 pictures of 1 second each - then each turn will be only 1 degree, i.e. “blurriness” will be 4 times less.

This is the principle on which your device works - it takes several pictures, on each of which the device “does not have time” to shift and “blur” the image, and then connects all the pictures together - summing them up.

The use of such technology also makes it possible to combat noise. After all, “noise” is random colored dots that appear randomly in the image. Accordingly, if such a point is in one image, but absent in the rest, it means “noise”, and it can be accurately cut off.

Conclusion: “night photography without a tripod” is a useful function if used skillfully.

Test shots

Test shots will best show you whether the chosen camera is worth buying.

It is better to take test shots on your own flash card (by agreeing with the seller in advance). The pictures should have “difficult” conditions - changes in illumination in one frame, sharp boundaries of black and white (you can at least remove the inscriptions on the price tag), small objects (for example, remove a banknote, or price tags in the distance).

It is better to view the photographs taken at home, not on a computer, at high magnification. If this is not possible, select the viewing mode right in the store and select the maximum magnification. You should be wary of colored stripes on the border of black and white, unreadable inscriptions on price tags, and colored ripples when shooting monochromatic objects.

When doing test shooting, do not forget to set the white balance correctly: in the store this should be the mode for fluorescent lamps.

Battery life

Manufacturers often indicate the time in the number of photos. This is a rather crafty value, which can mean anything.
Most likely, this refers to the number of pictures that can be taken without stopping under normal conditions, without turning on and off, with the display turned off. Don't fall for this trick!

In compact models, when turned on, energy is spent on “pushing out” the lens, and when turned off, energy is spent on “pushing” the lens back into the body of the device. Energy is wasted running the display. You'll likely want to select the most appropriate angle, which will significantly increase the average time spent per photo.

The processor also consumes a lot of energy when processing a photo - therefore, for example, when shooting at night, one photo takes much more energy than during the day.

Please note that quite a lot of energy is spent running the LCD display. And in the battery performance characteristics, manufacturers often indicate operating time with the screen turned off for advertising purposes.

Conclusion: pay attention to the battery life with the LCD screen turned on.

Flash card

Flash cards of different formats today differ only in data transfer speed. For an amateur who does not make large series (when several frames are taken per second), speed is not important.

Only the cost of flash cards of different formats differs. Choose the one that suits you in terms of volume and cost.

Please note that the flash drive (USB drive) that we use to exchange files and the flash card for the camera are completely different things!

Conclusion: we are interested in the cost of replacement flash cards.

Data interface

Today, cameras are usually connected to a computer via a USB cable, and are seen as an external hard drive. However, it may be possible to connect an audio-video cable to connect, for example, to older TV models for viewing.

To rewrite to a computer, you only need a USB interface (USB-2, USB-3 - the higher the number, the higher the speed).

The Wi-Fi interface allows you to connect to the camera remotely, without a cable. This is convenient if you need to output the image directly to a printer with a Wi-Fi interface.

Wi-Fi is convenient if you need to immediately transfer a photo taken by a photographer to the Internet. The photographer is not distracted by rewriting photos, but continues to shoot, and his partner with a laptop himself looks for the necessary pictures directly on the camera and can continue publishing them without waiting for the end of the event.

Wi-Fi is convenient if there is a danger that your flash card will be confiscated. You can configure the transfer of pictures, for example, to your partner’s smartphone. Then the photographer films the event, and all the pictures are automatically transferred to the other person’s smartphone. When security detains the photographer, he calmly gives her the flash card, because the pictures are already in another place.

Some cameras allow you to control them remotely via Wi-Fi. For example, to shoot a landscape on a cold night: you put the camera on a tripod, and you climb into a warm car and take a series of pictures in the warmth until the quality suits you.

Automatic matrix cleaning

One of the problems with any camera is dust getting inside the body. When dust settles on the matrix, it degrades image quality. Dust is usually removed by manual cleaning, often by blowing with a special syringe. But there are cameras with a special dust removal function. When this function is turned on, the matrix begins to shake, and as a result, the dust settled on it falls off - the matrix becomes clean without disassembling the camera.

Conclusion: useful feature. You can do without it, but having it won’t hurt.

Webcam mode

Indicates that there is an interface that allows you to use the camera as a webcam.
To put it simply, control the camera from a computer (using special programs), and maybe power the camera via a USB cable.

Most often, a webcam is used to display the view from a window via the Internet :-)
Whether this is necessary is up to you to decide.

Ease of use and management

You are buying a camera, first of all, for yourself. Therefore, check whether it is comfortable for you to hold it, press buttons, use the menu, and select modes.
Everyone's hands and fingers are different - so there is no universal design that will suit everyone.

If you are choosing a device for everyday use, think about whether it will be comfortable for you to wear. Hold the device in your hands. Large devices look “more solid”, but what’s the point of having a “big” device and leaving it at home because it is heavy and “doesn’t fit anywhere”. It's better to take one that can be with you all the time.

And most importantly, if the purpose of the device is to always be with you, make sure that it is comfortable to wear. Maybe you should give up buying a large device and buy a small one, albeit worse quality? After all, a simple device that is always at hand is more useful than a sophisticated device that “stayed at home.”

Access the features you need

It is also very important how convenient it is to access the functions that are important to you.

Look - are there special buttons for them on the device panel, or hidden in the menu?
For example, when shooting, the lighting often changes, and you need to adjust the white balance. How to do it? Do I need to go into the settings menu, or is there a special button on the case?
Or you like to take many pictures in a row, and then simply delete the unnecessary ones. How to delete a photo? Is there a special button on the case, or do you need to rummage through the settings?

It's like control panels. They all perform the same functions, but some are pleasant to hold and others are not; Some are easy to manage, while others have inconvenient access to the desired function...

Conclusion: to evaluate the usability of the interface, try to find functions that you will use often.

How to check a matrix - important note

The main defect of the matrix, which is not officially considered a defect, is the presence of “broken pixels”: these are points at which it is not what you are shooting that is reproduced, but a constant color (for example, in all pictures one point will be white or black). The Consumer Rights Protection Law allows for up to 3 similar points on the matrix. This means that if you find such a defect at home, you will not be able to exchange your camera. But if you discover this defect before the time of purchase, you have the right to ask for another camera.

How to check? To begin with, “warm up the matrix” - take several pictures in a row, and then shoot a completely black background, or a completely white one (either with the lens closed or with the lens open, aimed at a white wall or sheet; some devices do not allow you to do this when the automatic configuration, if the device does not want to shoot, go to manual mode).

Then go to viewing mode, make the maximum zoom and, sequentially moving across the entire field of the image, check whether white dots are visible on the black background. Then check to see if there are any black dots visible on the white background. If there is such a point, ask for another camera, and do not succumb to the seller’s persuasion that “all devices are like this”, that “this is allowed by technical standards”, because that is why you check the device before buying.

By the way, professional models have the ability to correct “dead pixels” using special computer programs. Simply put, they change the camera program, and instead of a “defective pixel” it records average data from neighboring pixels. When viewing photographs from such a device, “substitution” is not visible. But such adjustments can only be made by cameras where this capability is provided by the manufacturer.

The choice of camera depends on the tasks you set for it.

The main thing is that you feel comfortable working with it and carrying it with you.

I hope I have brought a little clarity to the questions that I am often asked: why devices with the same resolution, the same zoom characteristics, and almost identical functions can cost $200, or maybe $2000. And why does a device with fewer megapixels have better image quality? turns out higher than that of one with a higher resolution.

Finally, I’ll add: photographs are taken not by the camera, but by the photographer.

A camera is just a tool that will be completely useless in the wrong hands. Mastery comes from experience, so try, experiment, make mistakes and take risks.

I wish you success!

Article last updated - spring 2017.

We often review old photographs, remembering joyful events and memorable dates. A camera helps you capture moments dear to your heart. When choosing a camera, it’s easy to get confused, because there is an abundance of equipment on the shelves. There are many things to consider when choosing the right device. For beginner amateur photographers, the ease of mastering the camera and high-quality results are important, while more experienced users are attracted by the opportunity manual modes shooting. Everyone can choose the optimal solution for their goals and objectives, based on their budget. A wide selection of different camera models, as well as many accessories for them, are available in our online store. In this article we will talk about what you should pay attention to when choosing a camera.

Camera options

The starting point when choosing a camera can be considered the expected shooting conditions and the expected results that the new camera should provide.

Of course, there is no point in buying an expensive SLR camera if you just want to shoot standard subjects for your family history: vacation, birthdays or a child’s first steps. In this case, you should pay attention to ultra-compact cameras.

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