Transferring the image onto polymer clay. How to transfer an image onto polymer clay. MK. Master class: Transferring an image to polymer clay
Educational master class on translating images into polymer clay. This technique gives a lot of scope for decorating polymer clay products. This feast does not require any specialized materials.
- plastic,
- vodka (cheap, not tincture),
- cotton swabs,
- stationery knife,
- the image itself (in my case, printed on photo paper with an inkjet printer)
1. First you need to decide on plastic. The choice here is quite large, but most often they use Fimo, Cernit and Polish. The process is basically the same.
I chose Polish for myself because of its inexpensive price, as well as good fat content, which is very important for translation.
The next step is preparing the image that we will translate. You can use clippings from magazines and books, or you can prepare your drawing yourself and print it on a printer, which can be done in any more or less large photographic workshop.
Important: if you are a beginner (although not only) then it is better to make several repetitions of the desired pattern on the sheet, because in case of failure you can always redo it :-)
Now you need to roll out the plastic. This is not so easy to do with Polish, because... very sticky (when fresh). There are several ways to reduce stickiness, but more on that next time. I roll it out, covering the top and bottom with cellophane packaging from a CD, then the plastic sticks to the film, rolls out well and easily separates from it. (in this case, you can work with fresh plastic).
2.3. We take the picture, turn it “face down” onto the already rolled out plastic and press it (I pressed it with a manicure tool, but in principle I do it with a stationery knife) in order to remove the air. Don't forget to flip the image, otherwise it will be a mirror image (especially for photos of people)
At this stage, you can stop and leave it for a while so that the plastic fat saturates the drawing, then it will be better to transfer. Just about this time I cut the required form, although this can be done at the end.
4. Wet it generously with vodka. But you don’t have to leave it on, but immediately wet it heavily with vodka; I use cotton cosmetic circles for this. It is necessary that the sheet gets wet completely and the design appears. Press down a little so that any remaining air, if there is any, comes out. Here you can also leave it to soak, the more the paper gets wet. the easier it will be to remove it. I simply cover the top with wet cotton wool circles, for about 10 minutes, sometimes less, sometimes more, as time permits.
5.6.7. Carefully remove layer by layer of paper to the image, moistening it with vodka. Be especially careful at the end, because... You can accidentally tear the image, so print several copies of the same design at once. We begin to move it gently over the paper in a circular motion; it will begin to roll right under your fingers and come off. But be sure to make sure you don’t accidentally remove a layer of paint. It's better to leave some of the paper behind. it can then be easily removed after heat treatment. and constantly moisturize your fingers, the paper should always be wet. From time to time I just squeeze a little vodka on top so that the drawing is always wet.
8.Cut off the excess plastic (if you haven’t already) and put it in the oven (see instructions on the package), or as I did (I have a gas oven and any plastic burns in it) put it in a water bath. In the case of Polish plastic surgery, 15 minutes is enough. Afterwards, let the product cool and wash off the remaining paper under running water; it comes off very easily.
9. After the product has cooled, excess paper can be removed with water. Finish the edges. After drying, it is necessary to varnish, otherwise the image will not be bright and will be erased over time.
Then it’s a flight of fancy, you can decorate it, or you can treat the edges with zero sandpaper or nail polish and open it with varnish and the product is ready. It is necessary to coat with varnish, otherwise the design will be erased over time.
Creative success!
Keep at it and everything will work out!
And some more information:
Method 1 is used by those who do not mind time, but the pure result is important
Method 2 uses a theme for whom the brightness of the picture is important.
Method 3 is used by those who want to avoid streaks and blurry pictures.
Well let's get started
1 way
We will need:
- plastic
- video clip
- blade
- picture.
Step 1: roll out the polymer clay
Step 2: attach a picture
Step 3: smooth out the bubbles.
Step 4: wait half an hour, or better yet an hour.
Once you see these grease spots on the surface of the paper, it means the product can be sent to the oven (just don’t forget to remove the paper)
Method 2:
- plastic
- picture
- knife
- video clip
- alcohol
- cotton swab
Step 1: roll out the plastic
Step 2: Place the picture face down.
Step 3: moisten a piece of paper with alcohol.
Step 4: wait until the alcohol dries.
Step 5: start rolling up the paper, remove the excess, trim: ready for baking.
3 way
The point here is that this method is similar to the second. Only here, after wetting with alcohol, the product is baked together with the paper. 
This is the plate that will go into my oven:
I hope that I have helped novice polymer makers in some way!
I’ll tell you about an interesting and now very popular method of transferring an image onto polymer clay. With its help, you can make completely unique and very beautiful jewelry for yourself or for.
First you need to choose a suitable image. It is desirable that it be black and white (I just haven’t tried it with color images yet). The picture needs to be printed on a laser (!) printer and cut to the required size. Now take a small piece of polymer clay. For such products it is better to take clay High Quality(Fimo, Premo, etc.).
Roll out the clay to the required thickness, apply the cut out picture and trim off the remaining clay around the edges. Having prepared all the blanks, you need to take formic alcohol (sold in pharmacies), wet a cotton swab with it and blot the image. Repeat this action 5 – 7 times, pressing quite hard.
Then you can proceed in different ways: either try to immediately carefully remove the paper (the image should be transferred to the clay) and then put the product in the oven, or bake it together with the paper. Both options are suitable - whichever is more convenient for you. The pieces should be in the oven for about 10 - 15 minutes at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees.
We coat the finished products with a special varnish and bring them to the desired look using jewelry rings, earrings, etc. These are the amazing things you get in the end - a set of earrings and a brooch!
To be honest, it took me a while to be able to accurately and efficiently translate images. It is important to ensure that the entire picture adheres tightly to the clay!
Handicrafts store: Hobby-Box.ru
In this lesson I will tell you and show you how you can make a pendant like this, which will take no more than an hour to make!
Tools and materials:
- Thermal transfer paper printed on inkjet printer images on light fabric;
- Base for a round pendant;
- FIMO Soft (Fimo soft) white;
- Acrylic roller for plastic or Glass bottle. I used an aluminum nail polish bottle;
- A form for cutting out circles (its size must match the size of the image);
- Cling film, scissors;
- PVA glue or any glue for decoupage;
- Varnish for polymer clay FIMO.
Progress:
Using an inkjet printer, print the picture you like to make a pendant on paper for thermal transfer of the image. In my case, this is a round picture with a diameter of 19 mm.
Take a small piece of white plastic (1/8 of a full layer of Fimo is enough), knead it and shape it into a flat cake about 3.5-4 mm thick). Place the formed cake between two layers of cling film and roll it out with a roller to a thickness of 2.5-3 mm. Without removing the film, we cut out a circle from the plastic using a mold (for me this shape was a cap from a cosmetic product). Remove the top layer polyethylene film, remove the plastic scraps.
On the resulting circle we place a metal base blank for the pendant, so that the centers of the circle made of plastic and the metal base coincide.
Attention: Do not remove the bottom layer of cling film, otherwise you will not be able to remove the pendant from the work surface without deforming it!
Now lightly press the frame into the plastic and straighten (press) the part of the plastic that has been squeezed out through the hole in the center with your fingers so that the surface in the frame is flat.
Next, roll out another flat cake 1.5-2 mm thick, placing it again between two layers of film, and cut out a similar circle. Carefully remove the plastic circle from the cling film, tuck it into the pendant, and roll it through the film with a roller.
We need cling film so that the product can be easily removed from the work surface without deforming it. And the surface rolled through the film becomes more even, and for us this is extremely important.
We release the pendant from the film. Now it looks from the outside like in Fig. 11, and from the inside - Fig. 12.
I tinted the edges of the plastic with eye shadow - this was required by the coloring and subject of the selected image (Fig. 13). And the resulting pendant, together with a sheet of paper on which the picture for the pendant is printed, is baked in the oven for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 110-130°C.
Even though the outer surface is smooth and very neat, it is better to sand it.
Now we will transfer the image to the prepared pendant.
After firing, the picture became glossy and the top layer of paper with the picture can be easily removed. We cut out the image along the contour, remove the almost transparent film with the pattern, turn the image down and apply it to the surface of the pendant, previously greased with PVA glue. Carefully smooth the image on the pendant, expelling excess glue and air.
In essence, it turned out to be decoupage on baked plastic.
After the glue has dried, we coat the pendant with FIMO glossy varnish and here is the result of our labors!
The best part remains: choosing accessories and giving the product its final look.
For this I used
- bale,
- open rings with a diameter of 4 mm,
- silver ear wires
- leather cord with clasp.
Master class: Lemon slices made of polymer plastic
Polymer clay is a plastic mass, most of all appearance and tactile sensation reminiscent of plasticine. It contains a special plasticizer, which is completely absorbed into the particles of the material when heated from 100 to 130°C in a conventional oven. After this process, called polymerization or gelatinization, the material becomes durable - and this is the main difference from plasticine.
From this material you can make dolls, jewelry, souvenirs, and whatever your heart desires! The main thing is to show your imagination.
For work we will need:
Smooth work surface. I use glass from a large picture frame. Previously, I used a plastic board for modeling clay, but the plastic stuck to it, and the board absorbed different colors, so I had to wipe and wash it very often. To roll out without sticking, you can use a sheet of paper or tracing paper. Tracing paper, which can be purchased at a hardware store, works well.
Polymer clay. There are different manufacturers of plastic, which determines its quality. Russian plastic "Tsvetik", "Sonnet" or "Artifact" hardens quite quickly during storage. If you buy fresh, you can safely sculpt them, but you can never be sure how they were stored in the store. The Cernit plastic is very soft and does not stick much. It feels more like soft wax than plasticine. "Fimo" is probably the most popular. It is soft, not very sticky, very easy to work with, similar to plasticine.
Stationery knife or blade. It is very important that the blade is very sharp, then your products (especially “sausages for decorations”) will not be deformed when cutting.
Rolling pin. This is what is used to roll out large flat surfaces. There are many options here: all kinds of culinary rolling pins (it’s better to sand a wooden one thoroughly with sandpaper first), bottles, varnish cans, handles, plumbing pipes, that is, all objects of an elongated cylindrical shape.
Lemon
We stock up on lemon slices.
1. Take three pieces of plastic.
The first one is for the peel.
The second is for the inside of the fruit. I got this color by mixing semi-transparent "Cernit" and lemon-colored pastel. I simply crumbled the pastel finely (right into dust) onto the plastic and mixed thoroughly. This is a convenient way to get some missing color.
The third is dense white for the veins.
2. Take a piece for the inside of the fruit and divide it into the number of parts we want to see as a result. I divided it into six parts. We roll these parts into even sausages of equal length.
3. Now you need to wrap the “lemon sausages” in white plastic. These are future veins. Knead the thin layer with your hands. Now it doesn’t matter whether the layer is perfectly smooth or not. You can also use a rolling pin. Next, we cut out the “skin” for the slice from this layer and carefully wrap it. The layer should be of the same thickness and not be re-applied.
In this way we wrap all the slices.
4. We give each slice the shape of a droplet in the section. I did this by pressing down one side with a ruler.
5. Now we collect the slices into a flower. We make a thin long sausage from white plastic, which will be the core, and place the slices like petals.
And on top there is a thin layer of plastic intended for the peel.
And when cut it will be very smooth and similar to a real lemon!
Master class: Transferring an image to polymer clay
Necessary materials:
- plastic,
- vodka (cheap, not tincture),
- cotton swabs,
- stationery knife,
- the image itself (in my case, printed on photo paper with an inkjet printer)
1. First you need to decide on plastic. The choice here is quite large, but most often they use Fimo, Cernit and Polish. The process is basically the same.
I chose Polish for myself because of its inexpensive price, as well as good fat content, which is very important for translation.
The next step is preparing the image that we will translate. You can use clippings from magazines and books, or you can prepare your drawing yourself and print it on a printer, which can be done in any more or less large photographic workshop.
Important: if you are a beginner (although not only) then it is better to make several repetitions of the desired pattern on the sheet, because in case of failure you can always redo it :-)
Now you need to roll out the plastic. This is not so easy to do with Polish, because... very sticky (when fresh). There are several ways to reduce stickiness, but more on that next time. I roll it out, covering the top and bottom with cellophane packaging from a CD, then the plastic sticks to the film, rolls out well and easily separates from it. (in this case, you can work with fresh plastic).
2.3. We take the picture, turn it “face down” onto the already rolled out plastic and press it (I pressed it with a manicure tool, but in principle I do it with a stationery knife) in order to remove the air. Don't forget to flip the image, otherwise it will be a mirror image (especially for photos of people)
At this stage, you can stop and leave it for a while so that the plastic fat saturates the drawing, then it will be better to transfer. Just at this time I cut out the desired shape, although this can be done at the end.
4. Wet it generously with vodka. But you don’t have to leave it on, but immediately wet it heavily with vodka; I use cotton cosmetic circles for this. It is necessary that the sheet gets wet completely and the design appears. Press down a little so that any remaining air, if there is any, comes out. Here you can also leave it to soak, the more the paper gets wet. the easier it will be to remove it. I simply cover the top with wet cotton wool circles, for about 10 minutes, sometimes less, sometimes more, as time permits.
5.6.7. Carefully remove layer by layer of paper to the image, moistening it with vodka. Be especially careful at the end, because... You can accidentally tear the image, so print several copies of the same design at once. We begin to move it gently over the paper in a circular motion; it will begin to roll right under your fingers and come off. But be sure to make sure you don’t accidentally remove a layer of paint. It's better to leave some of the paper behind. it can then be easily removed after heat treatment. and constantly moisturize your fingers, the paper should always be wet. From time to time I just squeeze a little vodka on top so that the drawing is always wet.
8.Cut off the excess plastic (if you haven’t already) and put it in the oven (see instructions on the package), or as I did (I have a gas oven and any plastic burns in it) put it in a water bath. In the case of Polish plastic surgery, 15 minutes is enough. Afterwards, let the product cool and wash off the remaining paper under running water; it comes off very easily.
9. After the product has cooled, excess paper can be removed with water. Finish the edges. After drying, it is necessary to varnish, otherwise the image will not be bright and will be erased over time.
Then it’s a flight of fancy, you can decorate it, or you can treat the edges with zero sandpaper or nail polish and open it with varnish and the product is ready. It is necessary to coat with varnish, otherwise the design will be erased over time.
Creative success!
Go for it and everything will work out!
| PENDANT-POLYMER |
 | - Draw or copy the shape of the pendant on the cards and cut it carefully, either using scissors or a sharp scalpel. (Dimensions: Height: 5 cm, maximum width: 2.5 inches) |
 | - Working with transparent white for two parts of normal white. |
 | - Make a fairly marbled end and restore a uniform cylinder of dough as described in Chapter 2. |
 | - Cut the cylinder in half lengthwise. Click on the picture to enlarge it, you will see the color difference between the two whites. "Transparent" appears a little grayer. It will be dark in color when cooked and the object will look like ivory. I'm exaggerating a little here to show the color difference, you can put a little less, the pendant will be whiter. |
 | - Once the cylinder is cut in half, fold the outer edges inward to avoid duplicating marbling (pattern) and imitation ivory. Solder both sides by flattening the roller to a thickness of about 3mm. |
 | - Place the stencil on the dough hanger, go just above the roll to make it stick. Cool the dough you just work or put in the refrigerator for 10 minutes so you can cut it out much easier |
 | - The triangular blade of the scalpel is a precise tool that allows for sharp cuts. Attention to delicately handled, the wrong step is made faster with this tool, train yourself, or use a knife if the shape requires less precision in detail. Here, start cutting the center of the picture. |
 | - Help you cut the tip or nail to soften the edges. Smoothly hold the tip at an angle as you go softly to complete the line. |
 | - Always from the point, trace of the reasons you want to present. Click on the photo to see enlarged details. |
 | - After cooking, 30 minutes here, the shade turned out brown and sounds like old ivory. Click on the photo to see details. You can lightly sand the edges of the paper verresi if necessary. You may decide that the pendant completes this step. |
 | - If you want to highlight the carved designs, go some brown acrylic paint using a brush and erase immediately. Only the bases remain painted. Click on photo to enlarge. There are other methods for creating ivory polymers, the one I offer here is mine and I think the easiest. |
Master class "Heart pendant made of polymer plastic".
. 
Materials:
Plastic in two colors: beige and brown.
Fimo-gel or any other liquid plastic.
Beautiful buttons for stamps.
Oil paint "Burnt Umber" and acrylic paint "Gold".
A napkin for wiping off excess paint.
Toothpicks.
Aluminum foil (small piece)
Needle.
Blades.
Pasta machine or rolling pin.
Progress:
1. Making stamps from buttons. (this technique can be used repeatedly in other works in the future).
On an unnecessary piece of plastic you need to make an imprint of a button: press the button moistened with water to the plastic and press lightly.
Then the button must be carefully removed and the resulting stamp blank must be baked for 20 - 30 minutes (the baking temperature can be
check on the polymer clay packaging, usually 110-130 degrees).
. 
2. While the stamps are baking, you need to prepare the base of the pendant. Roll out the beige plastic into a layer 1 mm thick and cut out a heart from it
according to the stencil with a seam allowance of approx. 5 mm.
You can draw the heart stencil yourself or use ready-made plastic stencils.
. 
3. Making pendant jewelry:
Take a small piece of beige plastic, moisten the finished button stamp and carefully, starting from the middle, press in a piece of beige
plastics into a stamp.
Carefully remove the stamp, cut off all excess around the “decoration” with a blade and give the cuts a smooth shape, quietly smoothing them with your finger.
. 
4. Assembling the pendant.
Spread the gel on the heart blank, place our button decorations on it, and bake for 5 minutes.
. 
. 
Make half a heart and apply it to the base according to the markings. Lubricate the entire workpiece with gel and bake again for 5 minutes.
. 
Decorating the right side of the heart (beige plastic).
Roll several “sausages” from beige plastic. Place one of them on the heart (see picture), grease the sausage with gel and squeeze out
Use a toothpick to make holes around the perimeter of the sausage.
. 
Cut another sausage into pieces and roll several balls of different sizes.
Some of the balls can be simply laid out according to the design on the right side of the heart, pasted onto the gel; in some, to give a design,
You can first press holes with a toothpick. From large balls you can make flowers, a heart or a leaf, etc.
Do not forget!! Each element must be glued with gel!!
Bake the decorated piece again for 5 minutes.
. 
Decorating the left half of the heart.
You need to cover the left half of the pendant with “skin”. The “skin” needs to be made from red or brown plastic.
. 
Roll out the red plastic into a layer about one millimeter thick. To imitate the skin pattern we will use aluminum
foil. Crumple the foil and straighten it out. Place the crumpled foil on a layer of red plastic and lightly roll it with a rolling pin (roller). Foil
Carefully detach from the plastic. For decoration, you can apply some kind of design, for example, you can apply some kind of imprint
beautiful button. Cut out the right side of the heart according to the template, capturing the design..
. 
. 
Carefully cover the left half of the pendant with this blank.
You need to start from the middle, slowly and without rushing. The main thing is to prevent the formation of air bubbles and do not forget to lubricate with gel
parts in terms of their connection.
Place a strip of “leather” cut from the same layer of plastic on the edge of the leather “case” and, using a needle, imitate a seam (see figure).
Bake for 5 minutes.
. 
Decorating the sides
Wrap strips of leather around the perimeter of the pendant (side part). Use a needle to imitate a seam. Bake for 5 minutes.
. 
Decorating the back side of the pendant
Cut out a heart from “leather” (from a layer of red plastic) and attach it to the back of the pendant.
In order to give the inside a “leather” look, the workpiece must be pressed with the back side against the crumpled foil.
Attach a loop (see photo). Bake the dough for 15 minutes.
. 
. 
Product tinting:
Cool the pendant blank and cover it with a thick layer of Burnt Umber paint, for example No. 610. The paint can be applied either with a special brush,
and with your finger.
After application, you need to carefully wipe the pendant with a cloth to remove excess paint. Excess paint can be removed from cracks using
thin brush.
. 
Finishing touch!
Take a little gold acrylic on your finger and lightly tint the protruding parts of the “Ceramic” (beige) half of the pendant.
. 
The pendant is ready!
So, in order: print the image on laser printer and cut it out (in our case, cut out a rectangle).
Roll out white plastic. The thickness of the rolled out layer can be any. I rolled out a thin layer about 1.5 mm thick.
Place a sheet of paper with the printed image face down on the plastic and roll it well. It is important that the sheet of paper adheres well to the polymer clay and that there is no air space underneath it.
Trim off excess plastic around the edges. And apply baby oil on top of the sheet.
Distribute the oil over the sheet with the image so that the entire sheet is saturated with oil.
Now bake: as always at a temperature of 110-130°C. 15-20 minutes is enough.
Remove from the oven and remove the sheet of paper. Image on plastic!
I got this keychain.
 Making flowers from polymer clay is a very exciting process. Flowers can be made in a variety of ways: large, small, with or without stems, or even with leaves. Modeling flowers from polymer clay makes it possible to make roses, daisies, peonies, lilies, violets and any other flowers. All clay flower decorations are made according to approximately the same principle. So, learning flowers from polymer clay:  Let's look at the most basic points. Let's see how to sculpt flowers from clay, where to start.  Polymer clay master class flowers. Peony. 1. Necessary tools - plastic - white - scissors - brush - acrylic paint - pink and white  2. mix white clay with paint (or red clay) to obtain a peony color 3. roll a droplet from a piece of plastic 4. smear the petal on the palm 5. - 7. curl the ends of the petal, make several cuts with scissors 8. fold the petal like an accordion 9. make one more accordion petal and mold it at the base together with the first petal 10. – 13. we will make many such petals 14. We sculpt flowers from polymer clay so that they are durable. To do this, pinch off the unnecessary clay from below and let it dry - this will make the petals strong, and the bottom layer of clay will be still soft. 15. secure a pin or flower stem in the peony, let it dry thoroughly 16.-18. make 4 more petals and attach them to the bottom of the flower, let them dry. To add volume, we lightly tint the edges of the petals with white paint. Rose made of polymer clay. It is made very simply. Just follow the instructions in the pictures. Let's see how to make a rose from clay.  Modeling flowers from polymer clay. Let's look together at how to sculpt flowers from clay; the lessons in pictures are presented below.  |
1. For work we will need:
Working surface (smooth - glass, special board for modeling, ceramic tiles)
- some ordinary tap water
- white plastic (I like to use “Sonnet” most for translations, it’s soft and absorbs paint well)
- metal or acrylic roller for rolling
- needle
- sandpaper or nail file
- cutting form
- metal fittings for the future product
- and the picture itself (printed on a LASER printer)
