Photo frames with cold porcelain decoration. Stucco molding on plates. cold porcelain. Cold porcelain flowers master class video

Cold porcelain is the cheapest, most pliable and accessible material for modeling. It is completely safe to work with it, and it is not at all necessary to have special skills and knowledge - even a small child can do such creativity. You don't need to look for something special in stores to create a unique decoration or other thing with your own hands. You can prepare cold porcelain at home.

In appearance, cold porcelain resembles plasticine or clay, but after complete drying it is an absolutely solid substance. During sculpting, you can use any accessories, jewelry, beads, small beads, buttons, branches or dried flowers, as well as fabrics of any structure. The surface of cold porcelain products can be varnished, painted or sprinkled with beads, sparkles, sand, etc.

The history of cold porcelain

In the first years of the 19th century, the first products made from this material appeared. According to dated records, it became known that cold porcelain was invented by the Argentines, but there is no exact information about its origin. There is much more information about the Russian master Pyotr Ivanov, who worked at the imperial porcelain factory and at the beginning of the 19th century made unique objects from a special class of porcelain. According to documents from the St. Petersburg Porcelain Factory, it was he who made the first decorative flowers from cold porcelain, which were intended to decorate special perfume bottles that were supplied to the imperial family.

There are earlier facts confirming the existence of this material. Chinese treatises on sculpture and art describe many varieties of cold porcelain stucco, but it is called somewhat differently. But still, its recipe is identical to the one used by Pyotr Ivanov.

Cold porcelain products: features and nuances of use

This material makes incredibly beautiful products, but at the same time they require the right approach to use. Places where there is no direct sunlight and moisture are acceptable for them. Cold porcelain is the same polymer clay that can absorb moisture, become limp and lose its original color when exposed to sunlight.

In rooms that are decorated with items made of cold porcelain, it is necessary to maintain the optimal temperature regime for it. So, if it is less than 10º C, the structure will gradually collapse due to the crystallization of moisture particles contained in such porcelain. High temperatures are also destructive - it will simply dry out and crumble. Lacquer coatings will help extend the life of cold porcelain products. They will protect against moisture and maintain the color, shine and shape of the surface.

What can be made from cold porcelain

From this material you can create anything you want - from a variety of jewelry for women to cute accessories for the interior:

Many needlewomen decorate pots of indoor plants or create a complete composition with a cold porcelain flower.

Dishes decorated with such stucco molding will become a real highlight of the kitchen interior.

All kinds of frames, flowerpots, stands, lampshades, candlesticks made of cold porcelain will dilute the usual interior and give it a touch of individuality.

Hairpins, hoops, jewelry and other feminine attributes decorated with flowers made of cold porcelain look charming.

Thematic compositions made from this material, figurines of animals, little houses, garlands of flowers and greenery will certainly become a unique interior decor.

Together with your baby, you can create characters from your favorite cartoons or fairy tale characters that will decorate a children's room.

In addition, you can make an amazing gift for dear people.

Cold porcelain: cooking at home

Making polymer clay is not at all difficult. The easiest traditional recipe is corn or rice starch, PVA glue, the most common baby cream and glycerin. The proportions are as follows:

• 1:1 cups starch and glue;
• 1:2 tablespoons of cream and glycerin.

Mix the ingredients thoroughly and leave for 15-20 minutes until the mass reaches a consistency ideal for modeling. It is strictly forbidden to put the prepared mixture in the refrigerator or store it for more than 2 hours at room temperature. You need to sculpt at once, trying to use all the material.

Some people add citric acid to the mixture, which works on the principle of preservation, which extends the shelf life of products.

There are recipes using water. However, such compositions are short-lived and fragile. Under the influence of external irritants, water reacts with the other components of polymer clay, due to which the shape of the products may change, their strength may decrease, and an unpleasant odor may appear.

To give a certain color to a product, chalk and food coloring are often used. But even after finishing the work and completely drying the product (in a day), its surface can also be painted.

Modeling tools

• scissors and rolling pin;
• toothpicks or stacks;
• nippers and tweezers;
• decorative cosmetics;
• paints and brushes;
• wet wipes;
• cutting board and gloves;
• glue for installation and thin wire.

Sakura flower: master class from cold porcelain

It is easier for beginning “sculptors” to make flowers from cold porcelain, for example, sakura.

Step 1. Leave part of the workpiece white, and paint part soft pink. From each we make small blocks (future petals). The white block should be slightly thicker than the tinted one. We connect the blanks along the length and cut them into small rectangles.

Step 2. Sculpt the petals. Make their bases pink and their edges white. We glue the petals together with PVA and use a toothpick or knitting needle to make a small hole in the middle, where we will then insert the stem.

Step 3. We attach the finished buds to a leaf cup with a green base and place them on a wire stem. Such a branch should look like a real sakura, perfectly repeating its structure.

Step 4. According to this scheme, we make several branches, leave them to dry completely, and then twist them into a single composition using wire.

And on the forum she gave wonderful tips on modeling and told the intricacies of preparing the mass. Everything written below are quotes from Elena’s advice from the forum. Well, and some more beautiful pictures.

Bottles should be washed and degreased with glass cleaner or vodka. Then I paint them with water-based emulsion or acrylic (foam sponge). After drying - acrylic varnish. I glue the flower leaves onto the dried varnish with PVA glue. I prepare the flowers as I design the bottle and while they are still raw, but are already beginning to confidently hold their shape, I glue them into the composition. And if I have to use an already dried flower, then I use a lump of cold porcelain as plasticine.

The materials I use make the flowers quite durable. It is very difficult to break small flowers (in the photo frame, Fig. 3) with your fingers by pressing on the edges of the petals. As a rule, women fail to do this. The large flowers are also quite durable. Large petals hardly bend. If you try to break them, the petal or leaf bends about 10-20 degrees before it bursts. But if you warm the thin edge of the petal between your fingers, then you can slightly change the shape on the dried flower.

Quality and strength directly depend on the glue and the ratio of glue to cream volume. Since in this composition these two components are antagonists.

• I don’t add liquid baby oil at all, but I was able to achieve greater plasticity by not cooking the mixture right away, but letting it sit for 1-1.5 hours.

I make cold porcelain with potato starch. But potato starch comes in different varieties; it is divided into varieties. First grade, highest and extra. This is still a Soviet classification. At first I didn’t pay attention to these nuances. The result was either a gray or sticky, floating mass.

• The shelf life of the glue is 1 year. Later, it irreversibly loses its properties. The plasticizers in the glue stop working. If the glue freezes, then it is no longer good for anything. That's why I never buy at the market.

• I pour glue into the dishes - about 300 g
• then glycerin - 2 tablespoons,
• 0.5 teaspoons vinegar (but I did it without it)
• 2 tbsp. spoons of hand cream or baby cream
• Then I add starch - 300 g

If you measure the volume with circles, then the volume of glue is equal to the volume of starch. In this case, these are two 150-gram tea mugs. I stir this mass, and at first it all looks dry and lumpy. Then I start adding water, but very carefully and slowly: 2-3 tablespoons at a time. Added, stirred and stood for 5-10 minutes. And if necessary, then again. As a result, the total volume of water, as a rule, does not exceed 0.5 cups. Over the course of 1 hour, I periodically stir the mixture 4-5 times. I don’t know what happens to her during this time, but she becomes like a marshmallow. I cook in the microwave. And the main thing here, as I understand it, is not time, but temperature. If 2-3 times at first I hold it for 40-50 seconds. 750 W, then as it heats up I reduce the time to 15 seconds. The result is from 6 to 10 heatings. If the mass nevertheless overheats, it becomes too “rubbery”. Then while kneading on the table I add glue. I just smear my hands with glue and stir. The procedure is not pleasant. Periodically I smear my hands with cream.

If you decide to follow my advice, I recommend using a microwave. Due to the fact that the diluted composition is very thick, like molasses, there is a high risk of overcooking it on the stove. Then it’s better in a water bath. It's longer, but less risky. If you end up with a very tight mass, you can try to save it. Separate a small piece and try to make a cake out of it. Grease it and then roll it up. This procedure must be done several times. It is easier to do this when the mass is warm (warm it in your hands). The glue will make the mass plastic and stretch. If you can resuscitate a small piece, then it makes sense to save everything else.

Elegant and durable products made from cold porcelain look like ordinary porcelain, but in practice they have little in common. Despite the fact that the Japanese have been familiar with it for more than five thousand years, it has recently spread throughout Europe. Properly prepared porcelain looks fragile and translucent, but in fact it makes very durable things. In addition, it is completely safe and easy to use.

Preparing the material at home is as easy as shelling pears, and even a child can handle the modeling. We invite you to take our master class “How to make cold porcelain.”

Tools

To master the craft you do not need any special tools. If you are not planning to become a professional sculptor, make do with the means at hand.

Use rulers, knitting needles, and nail files as stacks. Attach the bead to a toothpick: this simple device is convenient for rolling out the material to the desired thickness.

To sculpt some things you need texture molds. Unexpected things can play their role. For example, real plants and flowers will help you create a beautiful petal or leaf.

Cooking recipes

Homemade cold porcelain can be made in several ways, using ingredients you probably have at home.

No recipe is complete without starch. It is best to use corn: the material will be more elastic, weightless and transparent. Potato will give a grayish tint and visual heaviness. Suitable for sculpting jewelry and figurines.

Cooking without heat treatment

Place two tablespoons of starch and a tablespoon of Vaseline oil into a container and mix. Add a little Vaseline oil and a pinch of regular soda. Pour in two tablespoons of PVA glue and mix well.

With heat treatment

Mix a glass of starch, one tablespoon each of baby cream, petroleum jelly and petroleum jelly in a bowl. Pour in a teaspoon of citric acid and 100 (a little more if necessary) milliliters of PVA glue. Cook the “dough” over low heat until you get a dense lump.

Alternative recipe

Mix 150 milliliters of PVA glue, a teaspoon of glycerin and fatty hand cream in a bowl, pour in 100 milliliters of water. Start cooking cold porcelain.

Bring the “dough” until smooth over low heat. Add 200 grams of starch. Stir constantly during cooking. When the mixture begins to form a lump, remove it from the heat. The second part of the preparation is the same for all recipes.

Moisten the towel and place the future porcelain on it. After waiting for it to cool partially, start kneading. At this stage, you can add various dyes. Both food and synthetic ones are suitable, the main thing is that they do not cause allergies.

Wrap the elastic mass in plastic and put it in the refrigerator. Start creating the next day: the porcelain should rest. Without delay, start washing the pan before any remaining material dries on the walls.

Cooking errors

Good cold porcelain will be elastic and easy to sculpt. An error in the dosage of starch, in particular its excess, will lead to excessive rigidity of the material. It will be inconvenient to pinch off pieces from such a mass.

If you see inclusions of starch in the “dough”, do not rush to throw it away: add a little PVA and knead the material again. Having achieved the desired elasticity, wrap the “dough” in plastic and put it in the refrigerator for a day.

If the material turns out to be sticky, difficult to hold its shape, and not flexible, liquid glue (you may have used stationery PVA) or an insufficient amount of plasticizer are to blame. You can try to cook the porcelain until the required qualities appear. If this does not help, you will have to repeat the preparation with better glue.

The quality of the glue is largely a fundamental factor in the final result. Because of this, the finished product may crack. Construction adhesive with a plasticizer is best.

Properly prepared cold porcelain does not stick to hands and surfaces. If even after thorough kneading the mass does not want to take the required shape, it hardly lags behind the film, it means that there is not enough glycerin or petroleum jelly in it. They are responsible for getting rid of excess moisture and the plasticity of the material.

Does the material lose its shape and tend to fall? Add a little starch to thicken the “dough”.

Speed ​​up the drying time of the craft by using a hairdryer or microwave. A low oven will also help. If you are not in a hurry, just turn the product over occasionally so that it dries on all sides.

Coloring crafts

At the kneading stage, add pigment or water-soluble paint in mass: tempera, gouache, acrylic.

Powdered dyes (including food dyes) will help to color the sculpted part. Apply them to the craft and hold over the steam, allowing the color to absorb.

To draw details on the finished product, use a thin brush and paints. Please note: when dry, water-soluble ones will fade slightly, while oil-based ones will retain their brightness and richness.

Look at the photos of cold porcelain items: what amazing and stunningly beautiful things you can create with a little effort and imagination!

Drying

Naturally, the craft will dry in 1-7 days. By placing it in a low-heat oven, you will speed up the process.

Don't be alarmed when the product shrinks a little after drying: this is how it should be. Take into account future shrinkage during the sculpting process.

Benefits from work

Surprisingly, it’s true: modeling from cold porcelain will bring into the world not only a beautiful product, but will also have a positive effect on the well-being of bones and joints. It will improve blood and lymph circulation, alleviate seasonal exacerbations of arthritis, arthrosis and gout. Working with small details will improve fine motor skills and calms the nervous system.

Modeling is a very exciting process that presents no difficulties even for beginners. Let your first work be flowers made of cold porcelain, a bird, an animal, or jewelry. By increasing your skill level, you will be able to perform elements that require more delicate work.

Use our simple instructions for beginners on sculpting with cold porcelain so that your creativity will bring only positive emotions!

DIY photo of cold porcelain

Photo frame with white lilies made of polymer clay

Photo frame decoration. Materials and tools:

• baked polymer clay of white, translucent, cherry color;
• green self-hardening floral clay;
• dry pastel in light green, red and mustard colors;
• thin wire;
• mold with the texture of a lily petal (We recommend reading)
• universal mold for leaves;
• breadboard knife;
• stack;
• toothpicks;
• scissors;
• soft round brush;
• flat small brush;
• quick-drying glue;
• cotton wool;
• alcohol;
• photo frame;
• latex gloves

2. Press each petal onto a mold with the texture of lily petals.

3. Bend the petal lengthwise and bend it slightly in an arc, so that it is not even, but slightly curved upward. We process all the other petals in the same way.

4. Form a “donut” of a suitable size from cotton wool. Place three petals on it so that their lower ends converge in the center of the “donut” and touch each other. Press the center of where the petals meet with the stack so they stick together. Then place three more petals on top, placing them in the spaces between the lower petals. Also press the stack into the center so that the petals stick together. Use the same method to collect the second lily.

5. Let's continue the "polymer clay" master class. Crush a piece of light green pastel crayon into powder and color the name using a round soft brush center of lilies.

6. Take a piece of translucent clay and mix it with a very small amount of light green pastel to give the clay a slight greenish tint. If you are using transparent rather than translucent clay for this, then it is advisable to first mix it with a piece of white clay.

7. Cut a piece of wire 3cm long. Place a ball of freshly prepared translucent greenish clay on it and form a pestle, expanding at the top and tapering downwards. On the top side of the pestle, use a toothpick to make indentations dividing it into three identical parts.

8. Pinch the edge of each of the three parts a little with your fingers.

9. Tint the top of the pestle with mustard-colored pastels. Make a second pestle of the same type for the second lily using polymer clay.

10. Add a piece of translucent clay to the remaining clay from making the pestle to make it a lighter color.

11. Place this clay on a thin wire and begin to roll it between your fingers and stretch it in opposite directions so that the clay covers the wire with an even thin layer.

12. Now cut this wire 12 into pieces 3cm long.

13. To make stamen anthers, shape ovals the size of a grain of rice from cherry clay. Use the back of a knife to press a longitudinal groove on the surface of each grain.

14. Poke a blind hole at the bottom of each anther with a toothpick.

15. Place the anthers on top of the stamen stalks.

16. Now stick 6 stamens to the pistil.

17. Turn the pestle with the stamens upside down and place them on the cardboard on which you will bake them.

18. From white clay, form an oblong bud with a sharp tip. The length of the bud should be slightly less than the length of the petals of polymer clay lilies. Place the bud on a toothpick and use a knife to press three vertical indentations on its surface. Make 6 buds.

19. Tint the top of the buds with red pastel, and tint the lower side and grooves with light green pastel using a flat brush. Then remove the buds from the toothpicks. Now place the buds next to the bunches of pistils and stamens, place the lilies on cotton wool next to them and bake it all in the oven. When you remove the products from the oven, remove the cotton wool from under the lilies.

20. Next we will work with self-hardening floral clay that does not require baking. Cut the wire into 6 pieces 4cm long and roll each piece with a thin layer of green floral clay. Lubricate the tip of the wire in clay with quick-drying glue and immediately put the bud on it. Glue the green stems into the remaining buds in the same way. Place the three buds together and press the undersides of the stems together. They should stick together. If they don't stick together well, you can coat them with glue.

21. Lubricate the underside of the stamens in the pistil with glue and glue them into the polymer clay lily.

22. Photo frame decoration almost ready. Now use cotton wool soaked in alcohol to wipe the frame to degrease it. Apply glue to the underside of the stems of the bunch of buds and glue it to the desired location on the top of the frame. Then glue the second bunch of buds to the underside of the frame.

23. Make an oblong lily leaf from green clay and give it texture using a universal mold.

24. Bend the petal lengthwise, coat its underside with glue and glue it so that it covers the ends of the stems of the buds. Then make a few more leaves and glue them near the buds and in the place where the lilies will be.

25. Grease the underside of the lily with glue and stick a ball of green floral clay.

26. Lubricate the bottom side of the ball with glue and place the lily in the required place of the photo frame, pressing it down. Glue the second lily in the same way.

Polymer clay- Master Class has come to an end, in conclusion I would like to note:
*you can not glue the elements made from floral clay raw, but simply stick them temporarily on a photo frame, and then, after the clay has hardened, carefully remove them from the frame and then glue them with glue.

So thanks to the charming polymer clay lilies, decorating a photo frame has become unusually delicate and stylish.

Now try experimenting, watch our other master classes on polymer clay and decorate a photo frame with your favorite colors.

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Externally, cold porcelain is similar to plasticine or clay, but unlike them, it does not require cooking, firing or baking. It hardens within 2 days and becomes quite dense and durable. You can combine this material with any decor: buttons, lace, shells, and sprinkle the surface with sand, beads, and paint it with any paints and varnishes.

The first such products date back to the 19th century; the exact country of origin is unknown, but it is attributed to the Argentines.

Products made from cold porcelain are extremely beautiful, but require special care. Moisture can soften them, causing them to become limp, and sunlight can discolor them. The influence of high temperatures can lead to drying out, and too low temperatures can lead to destruction.

It is possible to extend the service life of cold porcelain crafts by applying several protective layers of varnish. This will not only protect them from exposure environment, but will also add shine and color.

You can mold anything from cold porcelain at home: from small jewelry to small decorative accessories. Many people use this technology to decorate flower pots and dishes, and the most valuable are decorative garlands in the form of flowers, leaves, greenery and figurines of animals and cartoon characters.

How to make cold porcelain with your own hands?

To do this, you need to acquire the following materials:

• 200 grams of PVA glue;
• Rice starch (if you don’t have it, you can use corn starch) in the amount of 1 cup;
• 2 tbsp. spoons of glycerin;
• Any non-greasy cream.

The ingredients need to be mixed and set aside for 10-20 minutes. The mixture should not be left for a long time; work should begin immediately and, if possible, use all the material. Sometimes citric acid is added to the composition to increase the shelf life of the product.

If you add water, the products will become fragile. To color porcelain, use any food coloring or chalk. It is recommended to refine the surface no earlier than 2 days after the product has dried.

Where to begin?

To work, first of all you will need materials and the following tools:

• Any object that can be used to roll out material;
• Scissors, tweezers and toothpicks;
• Brushes and various paints;
• cutting surface;
• Glue for shaping the craft;
• Gloves and wet wipes;

If you are planning such an activity for the first time, before starting the main work you need to watch the master class and read the detailed step-by-step instructions for beginners, otherwise you risk spoiling the material and not getting the desired result.

You can take the first examples for your masterpieces on the Internet from photographs and videos of crafts using cold porcelain. It's better to start by creating flowers.

Sakura made using cold porcelain technique

Part required material you need to make it white and paint the other pink. Two layers of different shades need to be fastened together and cut into rectangles - blanks for petals.

Using tools, you need to shape the petals so that the base is pink and the edges are white. Using glue, fasten the petals, and in the middle, using a toothpick, make a hole for the wire, which will serve as a stem. After drying, the flowers need to be collected into branches to naturally replicate the structure of a real flower.

Making roses using the cold porcelain technique

To form this flower, a small piece of porcelain is taken and transformed into the shape of a ball, from which it is necessary to obtain a drop-shaped figure.

Next, the end of the toothpick is dipped in PVA glue, then the drop with the wide side is placed on the end moistened with glue. For the convenience of further work, it is worth fixing the toothpicks on a piece of sponge or foam rubber. It is better to make the pistils in advance so that they have time to dry by the time the bud is combined.

To make petals, you need to prepare the balls again and form drops. Using your fingers, flatten the drops and get the finished petals.

Using glue, we fix the resulting petals in a circle with an overlap, as if hugging the core, and bend them a little to create a natural effect.

From these flowers you can make a whole topiarium, which will decorate the room and delight you with its unusual appearance.

conclusions

Cold porcelain can be used to make not only flowers, but also various souvenirs that can be presented to loved ones - keychains, personalized hand-decorated cups, figurines, panels and entire paintings. Such a gift will not leave anyone indifferent.

Photos of cold porcelain crafts

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