Master class by Evgeny Kolkov “An ordinary miracle of photography, or the Light Brush. Shooting an interesting still life at home (light brush) Still lifes using a light brush

There often come moments when there is an irresistible desire to shoot something, but it’s night outside and everyone is already asleep. Then I resort to a photography technique called “light brushing.” I choose a subject for shooting, and, without rushing anywhere, while drinking coffee at home, I bring the unrealized shots to life. This technique brings a little mystery and magic to the digital photography, it can probably even be compared with film photography, when you wait with trepidation to see what comes out after development.

In order to start shooting, we will need a tripod and a flashlight. Photography in this technique is carried out at long shutter speeds, so when choosing a tripod, pay attention to its design: it should be quite durable, and the camera should not hang on it.
To accurately control the flow of light, you need to make the flashlight beam as precise as possible when you take photos. To do this, I twisted a tube for it from a piece of black (so that it would not be noticeable when shooting) cardboard (I made a so-called attachment, called a tube by photographers) and fixed it with tape.

Most often I photograph objects on a glass surface fixed at a level of a meter from the floor; to do this I have to remove the glass door from the sideboard. Floor tiles left after renovation, a diplomat, or just a varnished table would also work well. Have a home
Glass cleaner will also be a good idea if you don't want to remove a bunch of stains from the surface in Photoshop.

After you have prepared the set and mounted the camera on a tripod, set the following shooting settings on it:
1. Once you have decided on the composition, focus on the subject and turn off autofocus.

Here, fire lighter fluid was used to add fire to the shot. Be careful, not every liquid will
burn. In the last shoot, I set fire to... Corvalol.

There often come moments when there is an irresistible desire to shoot something, but it’s night outside and everyone is already asleep. Then I resort to a photography technique called "". I choose a subject for shooting, and, without rushing anywhere, while drinking coffee at home, I bring the unrealized shots to life. This technique brings a little mystery and magic to digital photography; it can probably even be compared to film photography, when you wait in trepidation to see what comes out after development.

In order to start shooting, we will need a tripod and a flashlight. Photography in this technique is carried out at long shutter speeds, so when choosing a tripod, pay attention to its design: it should be quite durable, and the camera should not hang on it.
To accurately control the flow of light, you need to make the flashlight beam as precise as possible when you take photos. To do this, I twisted a tube for it from a piece of black (so that it would not be noticeable when shooting) cardboard (I made a so-called attachment, called a tube by photographers) and fixed it with tape.

Most often I photograph objects on a glass surface fixed at a level of a meter from the floor; to do this I have to remove the glass door from the sideboard. Floor tiles left after renovation, a diplomat, or just a varnished table would also work well. Have a home
Glass cleaner will also be a good idea if you don't want to remove a bunch of stains from the surface in Photoshop.

After you have prepared the set and mounted the camera on a tripod, set the following shooting settings on it:
1. Once you have decided on the composition, focus on the subject and turn off autofocus.

Here, fire lighter fluid was used to add fire to the shot. Be careful, not every liquid will
burn. In the last shoot, I set fire to... Corvalol.

- what it is? Let's try to figure it out. Everyone knows that artists paint with a brush on canvas or paper, and photographers paint with light. Photography is called light painting. In this case, the light can be different: drawing, filling, background, backlight, modeling.

And each light is created by its own separate source:

• soft fill light illuminates the subject evenly and does not produce contrasting shadows:
• painting light- this is directional light, it can be both hard and soft, it should show the shape of objects and their details, leaving in the shadows those elements that are not important according to the photographer’s plan for the overall composition;
• modeling light is actually an additional fill light, always created by soft sources, it illuminates shadows in the necessary places, and also creates the necessary highlights;
• backlight is used to create a light contour, a halo;
• background light - the name speaks for itself, this light illuminates the background behind the subject;
• leveling, designed to smooth out shadows.

As you can see, this is a whole science. There are countless lighting schemes that help a photographer make his work more effective. In other words, present the model in the most favorable light! But we'll talk about all these possibilities next time.

Light brush - shooting technique

So, today we will figure out what kind of thing it is? Everything is very simple. Light brushing is a technique for shooting in complete darkness, when all light sources are replaced by a small flashlight. We draw with it, and in this case it represents the main painting light. And if desired, he can perform any role, become a back-up or model. It all depends on your imagination.

Why is this technique interesting? It seems to me that its special appeal lies in the fact that it is here that the photographer comes close to the craft of a painter. Agree, it’s one thing when you photograph an object, having previously illuminated it from all the necessary sides, pressing the shutter once. And it’s a completely different matter when you “draw” in pitch darkness, snatching out individual details with a flashlight beam. Some of them are carefully illuminated, as if an artist were working out the details, while others are deliberately left in the shadows.

is a tool that is available to everyone who craves creativity. Some try to achieve an interesting picture without resorting to Photoshop, trying to work out the image in one go and write it clearly using technology." Others believe that this technique is intended specifically for combining a single image in Photoshop. That is, they work out the details separately, creating several frames, and then combine them into a single whole. Approximately how artists paint their canvases, first working out sketches.

So this technique is suitable for both beginner amateur photographers and seasoned photographers. Everyone can find in this technique what is closest to them. The main thing is that the light brush should only help in creating the work.

Highlights of shooting using the light brush technique

In principle, the technique itself is very simple - it is actually painting with light. In complete darkness, using a narrow beam of light, we draw all the details of the object being photographed. In fact, our flashlight acts as a light brush.

There are main points to remember if you are interested and decide to try it:

• Tripod. Be sure to install the camera on a tripod or its imitation, as, for example, in this article of mine, where as a tripod. By the way, I always have it at hand when I’m shooting compositions. Believe me, it's very convenient.
• Focus. We focus manually and in advance, since this will be problematic in the dark.
• Diaphragm. We select the indicator experimentally, it depends on the shutter speed. Remember that the aperture must be set constant for the entire shooting cycle if you shoot several frames, which you then stitch together in Photoshop.
• Excerpt. Usually it is enough to set it in the range from 10 to 30 seconds. Depending on the intensity of detail you want to draw.
• Flashlight. Flashlight for drawing with light. Here you need to understand that the thinner the flashlight beam, the more convenient it will be to draw the details of the image.

DIY light brush

To draw still lifes, it is advisable to use a small flashlight like this.

So. Problem. The small flashlight's battery ran out. What to do? After all, I only have large flashlights.

There are no hopeless situations. We take a piece of cardboard, draw a circle along the diameter of the light circle of the lantern, and then draw and cut out this “sun”.

Then rubber bands are used, you can use adhesive tape or tape. We fix it this way. If the edges allow light to pass through, wrap them with something. I just wrapped it in black polyethylene, the light stopped passing through.

And the final touch. Make a small hole in the center of the cardboard circle. Only very small. And we try to create a masterpiece.

So, shutter speed 1/2 second, aperture f/4. Well, naturally, with such indicators, I only managed to illuminate the eyes of the hedgehog.

I increased the shutter speed to 13 seconds and managed to draw everything I wanted.

No matter how small we make the hole in the cardboard, the light will be in the form of a blurry spot. I'll try to make the beam more concentrated. To do this, I make a cone out of cardboard and put it on the flashlight, using the same rubber bands.

Let's see what picture this ““ will give us. I really want to try to draw my father's awards.

It is clear that it is necessary to select values ​​between these. I'll try again. And now I’ll try to work on a complex sea stone:

Light brush - examples of photo compositions

Here you can read an article from Sergei Shandin in his article in the excellent photo magazine HE, the largest collection of articles about photography on the Runet. (http://photo-element.ru/ps/brush/brush.html) I’ll add that there are incredibly interesting articles.

Good luck with all your experiments in technology ““

Today we will talk about one crazy (in terms of beauty) photography technique called the “Light Brush” (or Light Brush).

Maybe you've even heard about it already. It's time to remind about its existence, because it is quite accessible for use even at home.

Here are some examples of using this technique:

Impressive, isn't it?

Actually, in the professional version, such photographs are taken using a specialized lighting device - this very “light brush”. The professional version of the light brush is not cheap.

It consists of a small light source with a halogen bulb and optical light guides, which can be used to illuminate individual objects, keeping neighboring fragments in the dark. Which, in fact, is what gives rise to such an unusually magical effect of luminous still lifes and even portraits of people.

But this technique is quite accessible to you. Moreover, in the amateur version it will cost mere pennies.

What is the principle of taking such photographs?

Here's the step-by-step recipe.

0. You need a bright flashlight with a narrow beam. A small Mag-lite flashlight is very good for this. It is useful to make some kind of attachment for it from scrap materials so that it produces a very narrow, almost non-expanding beam of light.

Something like this:

1. We need a completely dark room (either darkened or just taking pictures at night).

2. In this room we prepare some beautiful composition - a still life or something else.

3. We put the camera on a tripod and aim at the still life.

4. Set the shutter speed as long as possible (30 seconds or 1 hour - whatever is available to you).

5. We turn off the light. We press the trigger.

6. Turning on the flashlight for a few seconds, we highlight individual fragments of the composition one by one. We make sure that, if possible, only one element is illuminated (one berry, or one spot on the tablecloth).

7. We make 5-20 such spot lights.

8. Cover the camera lens with a cap. Turn it off.

We load the photo into the computer and admire it. Then, inspired by the first success, we repeat the experiment.

Of course, I described a very simplified technology for this shooting. But you understand the principle.

Alternatively, you can shoot each individual light on a separate frame, and then superimpose these frames on top of each other in Photoshop. At the same time, you can also clean up some places with an eraser.

We now have short daylight hours, which simplifies the use of this technique.

Shall we try this evening?

I wish you great photos!
I was with you
Vyacheslav Slobodchuk.

As you know, the word “photography” means “painting with light.” The light brush gives this word its literal meaning.

A light brush is a tool and a photography technique in which this tool is used. The instrument is a small-sized constant light source that produces a well-focused narrow beam. The shooting technique is that each object is illuminated separately, “drawn” in the photograph with a moving light brush. The result is a unique light pattern that cannot be reproduced by other methods.

The professional light brush has a constant color temperature of approximately 5500 K and allows the use of various attachments and filters. Light of a strictly specified color temperature, corresponding to daylight or flash light, allows you to shoot with such a light brush on film without color-correcting filters. Attachments expand the capabilities of the tool, giving the photographer additional visual possibilities.

But a professional light brush is an expensive device. When shooting with a digital camera, color temperature is not of fundamental importance, and attachments are not always useful. Therefore, it is quite possible to use a simple flashlight as a light brush for educational and educational purposes. It is advisable that the light of this flashlight be focused by a lens, then the spot of light will not be too wide, and you will be able to accurately illuminate small objects. It is best to use a flashlight with a white LED as a light source. Its light almost exactly matches daylight in color temperature, and it uses battery energy very economically.

WHAT IS NECESSARY

Shooting with a light brush is not as difficult as it may seem. If you do not have the skills to do this kind of photography, then you will need a digital camera. It will give you the opportunity to immediately view the results and adjust your actions. It is very important to carefully review each frame immediately after shooting, while you still remember exactly the order of your actions with the light brush. The camera's small display is not enough to study all the details of a photograph, so it is advisable to connect the camera to a computer and take photographs with the captured frame automatically displayed on the monitor. All DSLRs and many compact digital cameras have this capability. This requires the camera to have a connector for connecting to a computer (usually USB, sometimes FireWire) and a special program, which is most often included in the kit. If you do not have this opportunity, it is recommended to shoot in small series with control on the camera display, and then transfer them to a computer for more detailed study.

If you do not have a cable release (remote control) for your camera, then use the timer delay release mode. If there is, then set the shutter speed to manual control mode (Bulb), and use the shutter button lock on the remote control for the duration of the shutter speed. There are remote controls with their own timer (for example, Canon TC-80N3), which allow you to set the long exposure time and work it out automatically.

What to do if the maximum shutter speed of your camera is not sufficient to realize your idea, there is no release cable and there is no way to set the required shutter speed in the program that controls shooting from a computer? In this case, you can take a photograph in several exposures, and then combine the frames into one using a graphic editor.

Place the camera on a tripod and turn on manual mode shooting. Point and focus the lens. If you were using autofocus, turn it off. Turn off bright lights. Leave it just low enough to clearly see the subject you are photographing. If you are photographing an object with a smooth, shiny surface, such as glass or metal, then try to remove or cover any objects with glare surfaces nearby - the light from the light brush may hit them and you will get their reflections in the photo.

SHOOTING

When working with a light brush, the exposure has to be selected experimentally. Set the aperture based on the depth of field you need. A shutter speed of 1 minute will be enough for lighting small item or compositions of several items. To avoid noise at such a long shutter speed, use a low sensitivity, such as 100 ISO. If during the shooting process you find that the shutter speed is not enough to create the intended light pattern, or, conversely, it is too long, adjust it as you require.

The principle of creating lighting is simple. First you need to highlight the necessary fragments of the object. Light what you want to make brighter for longer. If you want a bright spot of light that is small and has sharp edges, then keep the light brush closer to the subject. On the contrary, if you want a blurry, dim spot, then hold the light brush further. At the end of the exposure, give a little fill light - move along an imaginary hemisphere above the object at such a distance that the entire object falls into the spot of light. You can simply hold the light brush motionless at this distance - then you will get shadows. You can also create backlight - illuminate the object from the back, then the light will clearly outline the contours.

It should be especially noted that before opening the camera shutter, you need to clearly imagine the future photograph. This is generally a useful habit, and when shooting with a light brush, it is simply necessary. You must decide what and how you want to cover, and have an idea of ​​how to do it. For convenience, you can sketch a sketch of the future photograph and indicate on it the movement pattern of the light brush with the duration of illumination in each area. When shooting, it will be much easier for you to accurately practice all the movements according to this scheme and with a stopwatch in your hands than from memory and guided by your internal sense of time. Plus, you won't forget anything and will do fewer takes.

Tricks

An interesting effect is obtained by using two different flashlights: LED and incandescent. An incandescent lamp produces light with a low color temperature (in other words, yellow). There are flashlights with a halogen bulb, their light has a higher color temperature (such flashlights are produced under the well-known brands Phillips, Energizer, etc.). The light from a white LED flashlight is practically indistinguishable from daylight. If you set the white balance on the camera (or for a ready-made picture, in a graphics editor) to an intermediate value between incandescent lamp light (approximately 2800 K) and daylight (5500 K), then in the picture you will get a light pattern with a combination of yellow and blue colors . This combination looks beautiful because blue and yellow are complementary colors.

Instead of flashlights with different types of light sources, you can simply use light filters. Then you will not be limited only to yellow and blue colors, but will be able to choose almost any color combination.

Colored lens filters can be used as light filters. For example, red, orange, green and others. You can use colored polymer film. This film is used as a light filter for studio lighting sources, as well as for design purposes. You can look for it in art supply stores, stationery stores, and packaging departments. A piece of unexposed and developed color photographic film can also be used as a color filter, creating a pleasant amber color of light.

Separately, it is worth mentioning shooting objects with glare surfaces. In photographs of such objects, highlights must be present, because otherwise their surface will lose its shape and will be lifeless black. But glare easily causes overexposure in the picture. To avoid this, illuminate shiny surfaces by brushing the light brush over them without stopping. In order for the reflection of the light source to appear in the photo, remember that the angle of incidence of the beam on the surface is equal to the angle of reflection. To simplify the task, you can use the technique described above - shoot highlights with a separate exposure and combine the frames in a graphics editor.

Shooting with a light brush is a complex and exciting process. Not everything will work out right away. Be patient - the first few shots will almost certainly be unsuccessful. Carefully examining each frame, try to understand the cause of the errors and try to correct them the next time you try. As a result, the result will get better and better.

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