Daisy chain self-insurance. Self-insurance in mountaineering. Daisy chains of various types

A climbing safety system is a piece of equipment that a climber puts on and to which a rope is attached using a carabiner or. The safety system is designed to distribute the force during a rope jerk due to a fall and prevent injury to the climber. Personal safety systems used in mountaineering must meet the requirements of the UIAA.

In mountaineering, however, as in rock climbing or mountain tourism, there are several types of safety systems - a chest harness or upper system, a gazebo or lower system, a combined or complete system.

The main components in the safety system are:

• Buckle.
• Ring.
• Loops or so-called balconies on the sides of the system.

What is self-insurance?

A self-belay is a device that is designed to belay and position a climber on difficult mountain terrain. The self-belay must withstand the greatest calculated jerk without damage or destruction and provide a load of no more than 12 kN on the person who has fallen off.

Self-belaying systems are manufactured industrially or tied with your own hands from dynamic certified rope.

The safety chain includes: the belayer, the belayer's self-belay, the belay station, the belay device, the belay system, intermediate belay points, carabiners and the rope connecting it all.

In the selection process, the main rule for forming an insurance chain is the use of equipment that is certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.

For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for a bottom belay and it is not recommended to use a mustache made from a tape for self-belaying. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment cannot provide guarantees, since the use of erroneous technical techniques or the use of equipment with errors is no less dangerous.

Self-belay from the end of the ligament rope

A lanyard from the end of a ligament rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:

1. You need to choose how much rope you need.
2. Next you should tie the stirrup.
3. Now we insert the carabiner into it.
4. Ready.

This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for twos. New UIAA certified dynamic ropes are capable of elongating forty percent or less during a 1.7 pull factor.

The safest self-insurances

They are made from a piece of dynamic rope. This type of self-belay requires about three or four meters of rope. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have the optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is located at face level. The second mustache needs to be made long, but it should not be longer than an outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.

To make the lanyard adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The catching knot must be tied on the lanyard and attached to the harness in the same way as the lanyard. To shorten, select the slack between the carabiner and the gripping unit.

Such insurance can absorb the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the gripping unit.

This type of insurance is not recommended for use by mountaineering camp participants.

Ready-made ligament lanyards

An equally safe option is ready-made ligament self-belays. It is desirable that the lanyard is attached to the harness not with a carabiner, but with a semi-grasping knot. In such a situation, the carabiner is an extra link in the safety system.

In the finished lanyard, stitching is used instead of knots. During a fall on such a belay, part of the energy is absorbed by the stretching of the rope. It is forbidden to shorten stitched lanyards from the box, however you can tie a knot as indicated above.

Parcel Prussian

Parcel-Prussian is the best option for lovers of cordalettes and everything Western in general. It is knitted from a piece of cord seven millimeters thick. If the cord complies with EN 564 standards, then it can withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN.

The length of this thing is quite easy to adjust. If it breaks, the rope will be etched by the gripping knot. In combination with stretching the cord, you get a less harsh jerk.

Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like

The safest of the lanyards not made from rope. Each ring in such lanyards is a power ring. If the insurance is not damaged and is fastened to you with two carabiners, then it is capable of withstanding exactly as much tearing as indicated in the manufacturer’s passport.

A semi-grasping knot can weaken it by 30-60%. When jerking, slings absorb energy worse than rope. A nylon sling can absorb about five percent of the jerk energy, which is very little.

In addition, they can withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with carabiners.

It is advisable to use such a lanyard in combination with a lanyard from the end of the ligament rope.

Self-belays tied from slings

In principle, such insurance was invented for speleologists. For mountaineering, they are not very convenient - a long mustache is suitable for a jumar, and a short one for carrying a basket when descending.

If we talk about the absorption of jerk energy by a self-belay, then these types of belays will absorb worse than rope, but better than Dynama. Fasten it with two carabiners. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are disadvantages.

Tied from slings

Their advantage is that they are very light.

However, they also have several disadvantages:

• Sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope lanyards.
• No length adjustment.
• They absorb the energy of a jerk much worse than a rope.

Daisy chains of various types

Not a single type of Daisy chain is, in fact, a self-insurer - this is what the manufacturers think. The main purpose of Daisy chains is aid - this is a style of climbing in mountaineering, where the support points are artificial.

However, no one is interested in this - many climbers use them as self-belay because of their ease of use.

If you shorten the daisy chain incorrectly, which is not so difficult to do, it will break under a load of two or three hundred kilograms. If you have shortened it correctly but tied any kind of knot, it can lose between thirty and sixty percent of its strength.

For the reasons described above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as lanyards.

Cliffs

Just like daisy chains, they are not self-belaying and are created specifically for aid. Their breaking load varies from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius.

Daisy chains can still be used as self-insurance, but this will not work with cliffs, since the line on the buckle will break under the load.

Self-belays for ice tools

They are quite flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and breaking under a load of 200 kg. Elastic bands can only be used for ice tools and in no case should they be used for belaying or self-belaying.

Comparison of various types of self-insurances from the passport of Grivel rubber bands

1. From the end of the main rope:

• Advantages: safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
• Disadvantages - the scope is limited.

1. From the main rope:

• Advantages: safety, easy adjustment.
• Disadvantages: bulky in size, inconvenient to remove.

1. From the stitched main rope:

• Advantages: safety, easy to take off and put on, mostly more compact than a piece of rope.
• Disadvantages: Cannot be adjusted; mustache length must be chosen carefully.

1. Parcel Prussian:

• Advantages: relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, excellent shock absorption.
• Disadvantages - bulky size, difficult to knit, only one mustache.

1. PAS and others like it:

• Advantages - relative safety, simple adjustment, easy to put on and take off, does not get tangled underfoot.
• Disadvantages: poor absorption of jerk energy.

1. From the sling:

• Advantages: lightweight, easy to take off and put on.
• Disadvantages: impossible to adjust, poor absorption of shock energy, less wear-resistant compared to rope.

1. Daisy chain:

• Advantages: lightweight, easy to shorten, easy to take off and put on.

1. Cliffs:

• Advantages: easy and convenient to shorten.
• Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

1. Rubber bands for tools:

• Advantages: they shorten themselves and are lightweight.
• Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Thus, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. You can safely use it - from the end of the main rope, sewn from rope, from a piece of rope.
2. Use carefully - parsel prusiks, made from sewn rings.
3. It is not recommended to use - clips, daisy chains, tied slings, elastic bands for tools.

In conclusion, I would like to say that belay, like no other part of mountaineering technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers, who have been climbing together for many years and have an excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice may never experience the real need to act in the event of a failure of a climbing partner.

Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure to follow during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize a belay station - to efficiently use the relief and microrelief to implement belay and self-belay techniques.

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Self-insurance is not only a team in mountaineering, but also... self-insurance.
They are different, and so that you don’t get confused about how to use one or the other, we’ll break it down for you.

Remember the main thing - the safest and most reliable self-belay is a piece of main rope with a diameter of 9–10 mm, tied into your belay system. Do you remember? Now about the rest.

Summary table on self-insurance - at the end of the article

Self-belay from the end of a ligament rope

A self-belay from your own rope can be knitted in 7–8 seconds and does not require additional equipment. We assume that you have tied one end of the rope to yourself (a leader always gets tied, right?).

1. Choose how much rope you need
2. Tie the stirrup
3. Insert a carabiner into it
4. Self-insurance is ready!

Ideologically correct safe self-insurances

Made from a piece of dynamic rope.
Such a self-belay will require 3–4 meters of rope. Make one mustache short and use it as a clip. Its length should be such that the jumar, fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is at face level. Make the second mustache long, but not longer than an outstretched arm. This is the lanyard, and use the first one for clamping.

Add a Prussian knot to the base of the mustache and the lanyard becomes adjustable. Tie a catching knot on the lanyard and attach it to the harness in the same way as a lanyard. To shorten the lanyard, take up the slack between the gripping unit and the carabiner. This self-belay absorbs the jerk energy by stretching the rope, tightening the knots and etching in the gripping knot.

Ready-made rope lanyards

The second safe option. It is good if the lanyard is attached to the harness with a semi-grasping knot, and not with a carabiner. In this case, the carabiner is an extra link in the safety chain. There are no knots in the finished lanyard, but stitching is used instead. When falling onto such a lanyard, part of the energy will be absorbed by the stretching of the rope. Stitched lanyards cannot be shortened out of the box, but nothing prevents you from tying a catching knot, as in the example above.

An option for lovers of everything Western in general, and cordalettes in particular. Knitted from a piece of cord 7 mm thick. If the cord complies with the EN 564 standard, then it will withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN. The length of this thing is easy to adjust. If it breaks, the gripping knot will etch the rope. In combination with stretching the cord, the jerk will be less harsh.

Metolius PAS, Sterling Chain Reactor and similar things

The safest of the “non-rope” self-belays. In contrast to daisy chains (more about them below), in such self-insurances each ring is powered. If there is no damage to the lanyard and it is fastened to you with a carabiner, then it will withstand breaking as much as the manufacturer indicated in the passport. A semi-grasping knot will weaken it by 30–60%. When jerking, slings absorb energy worse than rope. A nylon sling will absorb ~5% of the jerk energy, and (Dyneema/Spectra) almost nothing.

And yes, they will withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with a carabiner.

Self-belays connected from slings

They combine several disadvantages. They absorb jerk energy worse than rope, their length cannot be adjusted, and they are more sensitive to chafing than rope ones. One plus is that they are lightweight.

Daisy Chain of all stripes

Not self-insurance. At all. That's what the manufacturers say. This is what they show in videos on YouTube and in passports for Daisy chains. They are intended for aid equipment. But who cares? Many people use them as self-insurance. It's convenient and everyone does it. If you shorten the daisy chain incorrectly (which is not difficult), it will break under a load of 200–300 kilograms. If you shorten it correctly, but tie any knot, it will lose 30–60% of its strength. We examined the strength of the slings
Do not use daisy chains for self-belaying! If you really want to, buy a self-belay made from rings (read about them above).

Cliffs

Like daisy chains, they are not self-insurable. They are made for aid climbing. Breaking load Clif ranges from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius. And if a daisy chain can still be used as a self-belay, then this will not work with a cliff. The fact is that the sling will break at the buckle under load. Watch the video below. Only for aid equipment.

Self-belays for ice tools

Quite flimsy. They prevent tools from falling down and breaking under a load of 200 kg (BD and Grivel). Use rubber bands only for ice tools.

Elastic bands should never be used for belaying or self-belaying. They will break under a load of 200 kg.
From the passport to Grivel elastic bands.

CONCLUSIONS:

• Feel free to use: from the end of the main rope, from a piece of rope, sewn from rope
• Use with caution: from sewn rings and parsel prussies
• Do not use: daisy chains, cliffs, tied slings and elastic bands for tools.

Today we'll talk a little about Daisy Chain.

The use of Daisy Chain as self-insurance has become rampant. And, I confess, I myself contributed to this to a significant extent - I taught beginners how to use this thing. It's time to dot the i's and sprinkle ashes on your head.

Daisy Chain is NOT self-insurance. As I already wrote, our problem is a total reluctance to read the instructions, much less follow them. You and I are smarter ;-).

Initially, Daisy Chain was used for aid climbing on Big Walls. Times have changed, and Daisy Chain began to be worn by beginners in the Crimea.

Times are just the times to change, but Daisy Chain don’t have to change. They haven't changed.

First of all, you should look at the instructions for Daisy Chain (Black Diamond). It says in black and white: “Daisy Chains are variable length tie-offs designed to support body
weight ONLY. DO NOT use them as part of your belay or
protection system. They are NOT designed to hold falls.”

And we use this kind of thing for self-insurance?

Now about durability.
For example, the Black Diamond company gives the following characteristics to its Daisy Chain:

1. Strength of intermediate cross-links – 300 kg.
2. The strength of the entire loop is 1600 kg.

Generally speaking, this is very little. At a jerk factor of 2, greater force can be developed. How to achieve such a factor? It’s very simple - you forgot to unplug the Daisy Chain from the station, climbed, the Daisy Chain became strained, you lost control - that’s factor 2.

A lot has already been written about Daisy Chain strength tests. For the inquisitive, I suggest you read the article Glamorous self-insurance – a brutal blow!

The most important thing to take away from this kind of research is the realization that Daisy Chain is a very fragile thing and trusting it with your life would be a wasted risk.

Of course, you shouldn’t immediately rush to the treasured bag of equipment and throw away the dayzik.
On difficult climbs it really helps, it’s easy or convenient. What to do? There is an exit. Use in a daisy chain as an ADDITIONAL self-belay. The main one is a ligament rope (or a top rope or fastening to a station using , as shown in the picture).

And, of course, on difficult ones, especially with big amount ITO, routes cannot be done without deyzik.
What do you need to remember when working with daisy chain?
First of all, you need to know that if you shorten or fasten the deisik incorrectly (as shown in the pictures), this can lead to very sad consequences. In both presented cases, if the loops break (load is about 300 kg), the carabiner will fly off the deisik. The consequences are obvious.

For clarity, I suggest watching a video from Black Diamond:

At the end of the video it shows how to properly shorten a deisik. But there are other ways:

Or another option:

There is another controversial point - how to attach the daisy chain to the system.
The three most commonly used methods are:

1. Tying with a half-grab to the central ring. On the one hand, a half-grip reduces the strength by up to 50%, on the other hand, as the bourgeoisie writes, pinching the central ring is also not good.

2. Tying with a half-grip to the belt and leg loops. There will also be a decrease in strength.

3. Fastening into a carabiner that connects the harness belt and leg loops. This option is preferable from the point of view of reducing strength: no knot - no reduction in strength. But it requires an additional carbine.

My recommendations:
1. Use a deisik as an additional self-insurance.
2. Use a lashing rope as the main self-belay at stations.
3. Always on the end carabiner.
4. When climbing on aids, do not allow a situation to arise where a jerk with factor 2 is possible (remove the lanyard as quickly as possible from the previous point).

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