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Insulating the attic space in private frame houses is a responsible and important task that requires specific skills and knowledge. Today there is great amount building materials for insulation. In addition, you need to understand that when choosing a certain type of insulation, it will be associated with characteristic features and is selected individually.

If the attic wooden house will not be residential, then one insulating layer for the roof will be enough. For residential attic spaces, polystyrene foam is used in several layers. The first layer is installed in the openings, where the material will be held due to its elasticity. The second layer is installed perpendicular to the first and secured to the rafters using screws or dowels.

For the second layer, foam boards with a stepped edge are used. It allows the building material to be laid seamlessly and will not allow air to pass through from the outside.

Mineral wool as insulation for the attic

Let's consider several options for mineral wool:

• cotton wool;
• glass wool;
• slag wool.

Stone wool includes the best synthesis of the qualities and properties of glass wool and slag wool. Slag wool does not have sufficient elasticity, and glass wool consists mainly of pointed particles that will irritate the respiratory system and the surface of human skin.

Today, stone wool is the most popular - it has excellent elasticity and, with small installation volumes, does not require any personal protective equipment.. Glass wool is common in construction almost the same as stone wool; it has good elasticity, but when working with it, protective equipment is required.

There are two main formats for producing mineral wool - mats and slabs. Packages of cotton wool are marked with two-digit numbers indicating the density of the building material.

Insulating an attic with your own hands using mineral wool will not cause much difficulty. For roof slopes up to 45°, medium-density wool is ideal. The thickness of the insulating layer for these roofs usually coincides with the total thickness of the rafters. When the roof slope is more than 45°, the attic space is insulated with mineral wool from the inside. A layer of insulation is placed in the grooves between all the rafters, while the slab is held in place without the help of hemming. If mineral wool falls out, then it is necessary to use a more dense building material.

The use of polyurethane foam for attic insulation

Polyurethane foam– this is a unique insulation material, it is seriously different from other insulation options. This material is monolithic. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient compared to other known insulation materials.

It must be applied by spraying. Thanks to this technology, the insulation layer will be vapor-tight and airtight.

Polyurethane foam is an environmentally friendly and safe material for. Once the material is applied to the surface it becomes very inert.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam is complex technological process and due to the use of special construction equipment and selection of appropriate components. Because of this, do-it-yourself thermal insulation with this material is a very troublesome and costly task. With sufficiently correct technology for installing polyurethane foam, quality and reliability during use are guaranteed.

Insulation with ecological wool

Thermal insulation with this building material is carried out in three main ways:

1) dry blowing method;

2) wet application method;

3) manual laying method.

The first two methods require a special blow molding machine and certain special equipment. Manual installation is done with your own hands. Although this application has many disadvantages: excessive consumption of building material, high labor intensity of the work process and the quality of the required installation.

To insulate an attic in a private house with ecological wool, you need to completely sew up the entire rafter system.

Insulating an attic space with your own hands is quite a difficult task. Everything will depend on certain skills, abilities and your financial capabilities.

May 25, 2018 No comments

When insulating a house, special attention should be paid to the attic or attic, since it is through this space that the house loses most of the heat.

The reason lies not only in the fact that this is facilitated by a large roof area. It is known that warm air is lighter and, when heated, it rises to the top, namely to the attic, from where it penetrates outside through non-insulated structures.

As a result, if the attic is not insulated, you will have to constantly heat not only your home, but also the surrounding space. In addition to heat loss, this will lead to high humidity in the house, the floors in the rooms will always be cold and, as a result, mold will appear in the house.

There are several options for insulating an attic or attic.

In non-residential premises, it is possible not to carry out full insulation of the entire system; it is enough to insulate the floors well so that air from the lower floors does not penetrate into the attic, and cold from the attic does not seep into warm rooms.

Before starting work, you need to decide what material will be used, how much of this material will be required and what additional fastening materials and tools will be needed to install the structure.

Calculations should be made to determine the amount of heat loss through the attic, on the basis of which the thickness of the layer of insulating material can be determined.

Sometimes a lot of insulation is required, so it is better to choose a material that is not very heavy so as not to overload the entire structure. For example, expanded clay is a fairly heavy material and before using it you should make sure that it will not damage the load-bearing structures of the house.

In addition, the thermal insulation properties of the attic floor must be maintained both in winter and summer in order to avoid both heat loss and overheating internal space Houses.

In order for the insulation to last as long as possible and all financial and physical costs to be justified, it is important to right choice in favor of high-quality material and competently carry out its installation. For example, in a loose heat insulator, regular air circulation occurs (convection cell).

Convection of loose ceiling insulation

It turns out that moving air constantly pulls out the heat retained by the insulation, and the lower the air temperature in the attic, the more intense the convection and removal of heat from the insulation. At the same time, the heat flow into the insulation through the ceiling increases.

Gradually throughput insulation increases, and the resistance to heat movement decreases and, as a result, the effectiveness of thermal insulation is significantly reduced. To avoid this, it is necessary to carefully consider the insulation scheme, use high-quality material and install it conscientiously.

Helpful advice

To insulate the attic floor, you can use polystyrene foam, expanded clay or polyurethane foam as a thermal insulation material. In the first three cases, you will additionally need waterproofing material (for example), mounting foam, foam for sealing joints and cracks, as well as floor covering (this can be ordinary boards, wood boards, etc.). Spraying polyurethane foam will require a special installation.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the attic floor - remove debris and dust. Then the attic floor needs to be covered with waterproofing film.

When placed in a humid environment, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties, so it is better to spread the film for moisture insulation with a reserve, placing its edges on the walls or side beams and fastening them with a construction stapler.

The next step is the installation of a wooden sheathing (frame).

To do this, you need to fix wooden planks on top of the film in such a way that insulation boards can be laid between them. If the attic floor has wooden beams, mineral wool can be placed between them. If there are significant heat losses through the ceiling, several layers of insulation will need to be laid.

The last layer of wool must cover the beams. If this is not done, the wooden beams will become cold bridges through which heat will continue to leave the room.

All cracks and voids should be filled with pieces of insulation or filled with construction foam, and the joints between the mats should be sealed with tape.

Then a second layer of vapor-proof film is laid, since mineral wool must be protected on both sides.

This will better protect the insulation from damage when walking on it. If the attic will not be used, it is enough to nail a few boards along which you can move, like on paths.

Prices for mineral wool

Expanded clay is used to insulate attic floors in cases where heat losses in the house are insignificant and you can get by with a small amount of insulation so as not to weigh down the load-bearing structure.

Expanded clay has many advantages over other insulation materials: it is inedible for rodents, durable and, since it is bulk insulation, it easily fills all the unevenness and hard-to-reach places on the surface. To ensure that there are no voids left when insulating with expanded clay, granules of different sizes should be used.

In addition, expanded clay is not afraid of moisture, so it does not need to be protected from it and you do not need to spend money on purchasing waterproofing material.

However, the thermal insulation characteristics of this material are relatively low, so for greater efficiency you will still need to pour a fairly thick layer, which will increase the load on the floors of the house. In this case, it is recommended to combine expanded clay with mineral wool, which will make it possible to make multi-layer insulation, making it somewhat lighter due to lighter mineral wool.

Insulation technology using expanded clay quite simple:

You need to pour a layer of insulation onto the attic floor that has been cleared of debris, and then cover it with a cement-sand mortar screed. In the attic, which is subsequently planned to be used as a living space, you can lay laminate or linoleum on top of the finished screed, or limit yourself to flooring made of boards or wood boards.

If there are communication pipes in the attic, they can also be insulated with expanded clay, which will provide the ventilation necessary in such places and protect the structure from fire if the pipes become very hot.

When combining expanded clay with mineral wool, you will need to use an insulating film to protect the structure from moisture. First, the floor is covered with a vapor-proof material, then a layer of expanded clay is poured onto which lathing and mineral wool slabs are laid, and another layer of film is laid on top.

After this, you can make a flooring from boards or other material to cover the floor.

Insulation using foam plastic

This material is most in demand compared to others when insulating cold (non-residential) attics. In this case, you can use both slabs and bulk foam. In any case, this material will not weigh down the structure, even if the layer is thick enough. Installation of foam insulation is very simple and can be done alone. The slabs are easily cut with a knife, and if necessary, for better joining, they can be trimmed directly inside the sheathing.

If old-style polystyrene foam was dangerous due to its flammability, now non-flammable types of this material are produced. It is quite cheap and in terms of environmental friendliness will not pose a great danger, since the attic space in this case will be non-residential.

Technology for insulating attic floors with foam boards similar to the installation of mineral wool. First, the ceiling should be protected with waterproofing.

To do this, you can use glassine, having previously cut it into strips so that the material fits between the beams. When laying on the floor, it should be placed 5 cm on the beams, and then secure the ends to the ends of the beams using wooden slats or a construction stapler.

After this, the foam boards need to be cut with a knife so that they fit between the ceiling beams.

After laying the heat insulator, the remaining cracks and voids should be filled with polyurethane foam. The upper edges of the floor beams must be covered with insulation.

A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the structure, and then the flooring can be laid (boards, fiberboard or chipboard, linoleum, etc.).

The number of layers of insulation directly depends on the heat loss of the house. Layers of foam can be alternated with mineral wool or expanded clay. In any case, the main thing is high-quality installation of the entire structure.

Insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam

Today it is possible to carry out thermal insulation on your own by spraying polyurethane foam using special kits - disposable 2-component installations for insulating and sealing various structures. And although this material is not cheap, it is fully justified.

Polyurethane foam is applied directly to the floor by spraying from above - either between the joists of a wooden attic floor, or onto a concrete slab or screed, if it is permanent. It is important to spray polyurethane foam continuously to obtain a uniform, seamless layer of the required thickness without cold bridges.

The foam easily penetrates even into inaccessible cracks and recesses, quickly hardens and forms an even water-, steam- and heat-proof layer.

The floor surface treated with polyurethane foam does not require additional flooring and you can walk on it without fear of damaging or compromising the integrity of the structure. However, if the attic or attic is planned to be used as a living space, you will need to cover the floor with wood boards, boards, linoleum, etc.

The thickness of the sprayed polyurethane foam layer is determined based on specific conditions (heat loss at home) and the requirements of SNiP. On average, to achieve effective thermal insulation of the attic floor and attic, a layer of polyurethane foam 7-9 cm thick will be required.

If access to the attic floor is limited, you can spray it from below onto the ceiling inside the living space.

Helpful advice

The method of insulating attic floors by spraying polyurethane foam is very effective, and therefore has recently become increasingly popular. This insulation is durable and resistant to chemical substances, microorganisms and temperature changes, inedible for rodents.

The weight of the insulation is small, so the supporting structures are not overloaded and even acquire additional adhesive rigidity. Due to the fact that the insulation layer is very thin, neither the total area nor the volume of the attic or attic is reduced.

One of the few disadvantages of this type of thermal insulation is its cost, but in any case it is better to do the job well once than to return to this problem again and again. It should also be recalled that this material, suitable for arranging a cold attic, does not “breathe” and is therefore not very suitable for residential premises.

Video: Insulation of a non-residential attic of a private house

Leaves through an uninsulated attic a large number of heat for which money is paid. As a result, the room temperature does not increase, and costs for public utilities grow. The only way out is to insulate the cold attic with inexpensive building materials. If you have time and extra money, you can insulate the roof, but this is not necessary, because it is enough to insulate the ceiling from the attic and all the heat will remain in the room.

Why do you need attic insulation?

If the attic is not insulated, the likelihood of mold growing in the room increases

The floor area in a private house is equal to the area of ​​the ceiling, through which most of the heat evaporates. A cold living space creates more moisture, making it more likely for mold to form, which can lead to respiratory problems in the future. The most unpleasant sensations occur in the bathroom, where the floor and walls do not have time to dry, creating discomfort; in addition, the cold in the bathroom contributes to colds when there is a sudden change in temperature. Children in such conditions get sick more often.

Most insulating materials drain water well, so when insulating, condensation will not accumulate on the walls. Warm air dries out excess moisture, and the walls and floor warm up.

If you insulate the roof slopes and gables, moisture will not form in the attic and the smell of mold will not be heard. This is a more difficult job, but doable, since the materials are light in weight.

It is best to carry out the attic insulation work yourself, so as not to spend extra money on labor costs. You need to choose insulation according technical specifications, calculate its quantity and lay it using available technologies. The entire work may take 1 day.

Materials for thermal insulation

On the insulation market you can find both natural and artificial materials. Their difference lies in cost, efficiency, service life, thermal conductivity coefficient.

Mineral wool

Basalt wool

Mineral wool or its varieties - glass wool, basalt insulation, slag wool - are characterized by an increased thermal conductivity coefficient due to the structure of randomly arranged fibers. Cold air in winter does not penetrate into the room from outside, and in summer it is cool in it, since the cotton wool does not allow air flows cooled by the air conditioner to pass through.

• The material does not crumble and does not cause an allergic reaction. You can work with stone wool without protective equipment.
• Service life is about 50 years.
• Mineral wool made from volcanic rock comes in different densities - you can choose the appropriate option for any region, including the coldest.
• Basalt wool is a lightweight material, so one person can handle its installation.
• Basalt mineral wool does not burn. It can be melted at very high temperatures, so the attic will be safe.

An additional advantage of basalt insulation is the reduction of noise levels in the room, since sound waves cannot pass through the layer of air located among the fibers. At the same time, the denser the material, the smaller the air gap and the more sounds it transmits, so insulation can be selected with average thermal conductivity and sound insulation.

You can insulate the chimney with basalt insulation, then even more heat will remain in the room where there is a stove or fireplace.

When using glass wool and slag wool, you will have to wear a protective suit, goggles and gloves, as the thin fibers break and can get into the respiratory system, eyes and skin. These materials are also not flammable, but melt at much lower temperatures. In this case, the material loses its structure and useful properties.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam does not weigh down the ceiling structure, but has a low strength coefficient

Insulating an attic in a house with a cold roof can be done using polystyrene foam. This material also has advantages:

• Low weight and cost.
• It does not emit harmful substances when heated, therefore it is chemically neutral and safe.
• Contains a fire retardant that does not support combustion.
• Microorganisms and mold do not grow in polystyrene foam.
• Does not weigh down the ceiling structure.

Disadvantages:

• Low strength coefficient, so it is required additional protection material in the form of boards laid on top supported by logs. This will require extra costs and time.
• The material does not allow air to pass through, so dampness and condensation may form in the room.
• Rodents that live in private homes damage foam plastic and build burrows from it, so additional coverage is needed.

Polystyrene foam is most often used for exterior work under plaster. It is not profitable as insulation for an attic in a private house - it requires large investments to protect the material itself.

Insulating the ceiling with polystyrene foam in a house with a cold roof is more profitable to do from the inside, but this can lower the ceilings.

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene)

Thanks to the spongy structure, penoplex is easy to cut

Penoplex insulation is made from granules of synthetic material polystyrene or polystyrene foam. This is insulation, which is a porous structure with separately located cells. The honeycombs do not touch each other, which on the one hand is a positive quality, on the other – a negative point. The fact is that polystyrene foam does not allow moisture to pass through well; it will accumulate inside the room, causing dampness.

The advantage of polystyrene is its cost and small thickness. The air inside makes up 98% of the total volume of the material, which is why it is so cheap. Compared to stone wool, the thermal conductivity coefficient is lower. To achieve good thermal insulation, you need to buy polystyrene foam of greater thickness, which will cost more.

Penoplex is flammable, so in terms of fire safety it is absolutely useless. The melting point is 75 degrees, so it cannot be laid next to heating appliances. In the attic, this could be the chimney from the stove.

Polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

In terms of service life, as well as heat-retaining characteristics, it is worth paying attention to polyurethane foam, which is applied by spraying. In this case, there is no need to construct logs for laying mineral wool or expanded clay, and save money by purchasing cheap, fragile materials.

Behind a short time you can create a monolithic floor in the attic, in which rodents will not settle, mold will not grow, and cracks will not appear. When using polyurethane foam, you do not have to buy additional vapor and waterproofing.

Bulk expanded clay

Expanded clay is resistant to fire and moisture

You can insulate the attic with expanded clay. This is a durable material that is used in bulk with prepared cells. If you need to move around the attic, you will have to build a floor on top of wooden joists. Advantages of expanded clay:

• strength;
• durability;
• does not absorb moisture;
• retains heat well;
• allows air to pass through;
• can be used in combination with other materials, which is preferable.

Most often, expanded clay is combined with mineral wool or polyurethane foam is sprayed onto it, so as not to waste time constructing the frame.

Thermal insulation layer thickness

To insulate the attic in a house with a cold roof, you can use thermal insulation materials of any density, since the room is not residential. If you plan to lay mineral wool on the roof slopes, you can prepare a material of lower density and thickness, since as a result the ceiling insulation will be double, but laid in two places.

For ease of movement on soft insulation, it is necessary to construct paths from wood or other material so as not to violate the properties when compressing the heat-insulating layer.

Preparing the attic for insulation

The attic is prepared for insulation

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the room and the amount of building materials. The main thing is the thickness of the insulation, which is needed in the middle zone, where the temperature can drop to minus 30 degrees. The thickness of the mineral wool must be at least 20 cm.

After calculations:

• Remove all debris and dust so that the seal does not absorb it.
• Seal cracks in the roof using construction foam.
• Remove sharp objects. They can damage the protective layer of cotton wool.

After cleaning, you can bring in building materials, tools, as well as an additional lamp for illumination.

Vapor barrier

Vapor barrier – required condition when working with mineral wool

According to the laws of physics, warm air saturated with steam will always rise upward, passing through walls and ceilings. This process is called diffusion.

Different materials have different degrees of vapor permeability. High resistance to the diffusion process can be caused by the formation of condensation or accumulation of moisture between floors. In such places, the floors are usually made of wood, and wood, when saturated with moisture, loses strength.

When the lower room warms up and the upper room is cold, a vapor barrier is required. If you use stone wool, you can buy a material with a hydrophobic coating, which will not let steam into the cold room above, where it will form water droplets.

IN technical documentation There are two concepts: steam resistance and vapor permeability coefficient. These are different concepts.

To organize a vapor barrier, two materials are used - a film to cover the entire area and adhesive tapes to connect layers of hydrophobic insulation so that steam does not penetrate into the cracks.

The characteristics by which vapor barriers are selected must take into account strength ( polyethylene film not suitable), resistance to ultraviolet radiation, since the sun's rays sometimes enter the windows and can damage the materials.

Waterproofing

Installation of the waterproofing layer

To protect the attic from flooding, and the ceilings and repairs from water stains, it is recommended to lay a layer of waterproofing material on the roof slopes.

• Fused - overlapped and joined using a torch. Most cheap option– synthetic materials.
• Sprayable. A one-piece membrane film is created.
• Powder. Water is added to it immediately before installation.
• Liquid – suitable for concrete floors, absorbing into their surface.
• Coating based on bitumen.

Before you buy waterproofing, you need to re-read the properties: the material must allow air to pass through, but retain water. Some cheap films create a greenhouse effect in a cold, unheated attic, causing the walls to become moldy.

The issue of building insulation is now more pressing than ever. Most people start with insulating the walls, but end there; however, as you know, warm air tends to rise and escape through the roof, so insulating the attic floor plays an important role. Like all construction works insulation should be carried out efficiently. But how to insulate an attic floor to get the maximum benefit?

When choosing insulation for the attic floor, it is important to take into account its heat-shielding properties, strength, and resistance to exposure external factors. The type of floor will also play a role: concrete and wooden floors have their own characteristics. So, how to insulate an attic floor?

Popular insulation for attic floors

Types of insulation:

• Basalt mineral wool.
• Expanded clay.
• Styrofoam.
• Sawdust.

Mineral wool

Most often, attic floor insulation is carried out using mineral wool. What are its features and why is this insulation so popular?

Mineral wool is laid between the wooden beams of the attic floor

Advantages of mineral wool:

• High thermal insulation. For example, to insulate an attic floor with mineral wool, you will need a layer thickness 3.5 times less than when using expanded clay.
• Easy to install material. This insulation is not difficult to use even for those who are doing insulation for the first time.
• Fire safety. Mineral wool is not easily flammable, therefore, if a fire occurs, it does not serve as a rapid carrier of fire, which, for example, cannot be said about polystyrene foam.
• Long service life. If you lay the mineral wool correctly, it will not roll down and will not create cold bridges.
• Affordable price.

It is thanks to all these advantages that insulating an attic floor with mineral wool is a widely used method of saving heat in a room.

However, this insulation also has disadvantages. In particular, due to its ability to absorb moisture, the insulating layer of mineral wool may no longer provide the same thermal insulation as before. Also, when insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, it is important to follow safety precautions. Mineral wool fibers can cause irritation if they come into contact with the skin, so you should work with it in thick clothing, goggles, a respirator and, of course, gloves.

Expanded clay

Another material for insulating attic floors is expanded clay. Although this insulation is rarely used, it still has a number of advantages.

Expanded clay is a very popular thermal insulator in the past.

Advantages of expanded clay:

• The cost of insulation.
• Good thermal insulation performance. However, to truly achieve good result, the thickness of the expanded clay layer should be about 35-40 centimeters.
• Fire safety.

However, expanded clay as an insulation also has significant disadvantages:

• More weight compared to other insulation materials. Thermal insulation of a wooden attic floor creates a load on the beams, so when choosing expanded clay, this point should be taken into account.
• Inconvenience during installation. Lifting large amounts of expanded clay into the attic can be a lot of work.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam is one of the best materials for insulating walls, so some people decide to use it for thermal insulation of the attic floor. And although polystyrene foam has advantages, it is still not recommended for use.

Attic floor insulated from below with foam plastic

Advantages of polystyrene foam:

• Waterproof. This is a plus compared to the widely used mineral wool.
• Affordable price.
• Easy to install. Lifting sheets of foam plastic and laying them on the attic floor is not difficult.

Despite these advantages, polystyrene foam as insulation has a number of significant disadvantages.

Disadvantages of polystyrene foam:

• High flammability. If the fire reaches the insulation, it is unlikely that it will be possible to extinguish the fire.
• Intolerance to high temperatures. At a temperature of +60°C the material deforms, at +80°C it begins to melt, which causes the release of toxic substances, and at +210°C the foam ignites.
• Fragility. Polystyrene foam can crumble, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

In view of these disadvantages, especially the unsafety in case of fire, it is better not to use polystyrene foam as insulation for a wooden attic floor. After all, the combination of foam plastic with wooden beams is very dangerous. However, this insulation can be used for thermal insulation of concrete floors.

Sawdust

This method of insulation was very popular earlier, before the advent of modern thermal insulation materials. It is not without its advantages, although they are very insignificant compared to other insulation materials.

Advantages of sawdust:

• The absence of toxic substances, as well as the natural origin of the insulation.
• Relatively affordable price.

If we talk about the disadvantages of sawdust, we can note:

• The need to prepare a solution consisting of sawdust, cement, lime and water. All other insulation materials are purchased ready-made.
• Large weight, which creates additional load on the floor.
• Large thickness of the insulation layer.

Important! Having analyzed all the advantages and disadvantages of different insulation materials, many come to the conclusion that mineral wool is an ideal option, because it has high thermal insulation properties, is fireproof, easy to install, and also has an affordable price. As for its disadvantages, hygroscopicity can be compensated for by installing a vapor barrier and waterproofing, and the inconvenience when laying mineral wool can be compensated by compliance with safety regulations.

Installation process

Having decided on the material for thermal insulation, the question arises: how to properly insulate the attic floor? If we talk about mineral wool, what density should it have and what layer of insulation will be best?

Selecting the layer and density of mineral wool

It is better to do insulation with mineral wool in two layers

In short, the larger the layer of mineral wool, the better. However, you need to remember that mineral wool has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower this coefficient, the higher the thermal insulation properties, and, therefore, it is possible to lay a smaller layer of wool or have greater insulation efficiency. Mineral wool with a thickness of 15-20 centimeters is often used, however, to ensure increased thermal insulation, a 30-centimeter layer of insulation can be used. It is also worth noting that with equal insulation thickness, two layers of mineral wool are always better than one.

You also need to pay attention to the density of mineral wool, because it varies: from 30 kg/m3 to 220 kg/m3. Thermal insulation properties practically do not depend on density. Denser insulation is used for facades and floors under screed. Mineral wool with a density of 35 kg/m 3 is also suitable for attic flooring, because the insulation will be located on a horizontal, non-loaded surface.

Vapor barrier

Since mineral wool tends to absorb moisture, you need to start insulation by laying a vapor barrier material.

Vapor barrier - the first layer of insulation

Important! It is best to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the wooden beams, because otherwise they will be very susceptible to rotting. However, if it is impossible to install a vapor barrier film under the beams, they need to be impregnated with solutions that protect against rot and mold.

The best option is to lay a continuous layer of vapor barrier, but due to the size of the attic this is not always possible, so all joints must be taped with special tape to ensure tightness. The edges of the vapor barrier must be raised above the level of the future insulation and taped with the same tape.

Thermal insulation

When working with heat-insulating materials, you need to wear special clothing

Next comes the installation of insulation. It must be laid so as to completely fill the entire space between the wooden beams. If we're talking about about mineral wool, it does not need to be pressed or squeezed. It should completely cover the space between the beams, leaving no cracks or gaps. It would also be a good idea to cover the floor beams themselves with heat-insulating material, because they can serve as a kind of cold bridges.

When laying mineral wool, it is very important to protect yourself, and especially your respiratory tract, from insulation fibers. Therefore, you need to use a respirator, as well as gloves, goggles and long sleeves.

Waterproofing

We complete the insulation of the attic floor with waterproofing and subfloor installation

Due to the property of mineral wool to absorb moisture, waterproofing must be laid over the layer of mineral wool. This is also necessary if a concrete screed will be poured over the insulation.

If the attic is constantly used, a subfloor can be made on top of such a heat-insulating “pie”. Its role can be a concrete screed or OSB slabs. If the attic is practically not used, then you can simply lay boards on top of the existing beams. Then, if necessary, go up to the attic, moving around it will not create difficulties.

As you can see, insulating the attic floor is an accessible task, even for those who have never done it. You need to decide on the material for thermal insulation, although most often it is mineral wool. When installing a heat-insulating “pie”, it is important to remember the need for vapor barrier and waterproofing. This will allow you to achieve high results in insulating the attic floor.

Video: we discuss the floor structure in detail

Review of the structural details of the attic floor insulation device. What is a sufficient layer of insulation for a cold attic? What are the specifics of the work on laying thermal insulation for the attic floor?

The question of how to insulate the attic of a private house, in any case, arises before a zealous owner, whether he is building a new house, or he has decided to minimize heat loss in his old home. Familiarity with the basic methods of performing this work will serve as confirmation that it is quite possible to insulate an attic space with your own hands. This will not only save the family budget, but also, if desired, transform the attic from a non-residential warehouse into a suitable room for habitation.

Several reasons to insulate the attic of a private house yourself

The attic space not only serves to create a slope from the ridge girder in order to drain water from the roof, but this room also performs other important functions, the main of which are:

• creating an air gap between the living space and the roof, which acts as thermal insulation;
• natural ventilation.

Insulating the attic of your home is of great importance and has the following goals:

1. Significant savings in thermal resources and, accordingly, reduction in heating costs. For example, when heating with gas, fuel consumption can be reduced by 20%.
2. Preventing the formation of condensation on the ceiling of residential premises due to the temperature difference between cold air in the attic and warm air in the room.
3. Protection from moisture and rotting from inside the elements of the rafter system.

In addition to these beneficial benefits, keeping your attic warm can significantly improve the functionality of this non-residential space. For example, it is possible to use it as a residential attic.

In an insulated heated attic space, you can equip a relaxation room, bedroom or office in a modern style

Materials used for insulation

The roof and walls of the attic of a private house are more susceptible to freezing, so the insulation of this particular room must be carried out very efficiently.

The modern construction market provides the owner of a private house with a sufficient choice of materials, depending on the goals that are planned to be achieved with insulation.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool, rolled or sheet, is one of the most popular materials for insulation today. Depending on the production technology and the raw materials used, there are several types of mineral wool.

Slag

The basis for the production of this insulation is the slag produced from the blast furnace. Slag wool has the following characteristics:

But the use of slag wool for insulating attics is limited by the following disadvantages:

• increased residual acidity, which makes it unsuitable for insulating attics with metal structural elements;
• ability to absorb moisture;
• exposure to temperature influences, which reduces service life.

The advantages of slag wool include its good soundproofing qualities and affordability. The average cost of the material ranges from 700 to 950 rubles per m 3.

Glass wool

The starting materials for the production of glass wool are sand, soda, limestone and other components. By drawing out silicon melts, with the addition of the specified raw materials, insulation with the following characteristics is obtained:

This material has sufficient strength and good sound insulation properties, but working with it, as well as choosing the area of ​​application, must be done with some caution.

In addition, microparticles of dust generated during operation have a negative effect on the eyes and respiratory system. In this regard, it is not recommended to insulate a glass wool attic or attic planned for use as a living space.

The low density of glass wool limits its use in places where there may be a load on the insulation, including when installing a cement screed.

Otherwise, this material is quite suitable for use and is widely used for insulating non-residential premises above the top floor of a house, including due to its relatively low price. The average cost of fiberglass insulation from trusted manufacturers ranges from 850 rubles. per package, the area of ​​which is 7-8 m2, with a material thickness of 10 mm.

Basalt (stone) wool

This type of insulation is considered one of the most popular. Basalt wool fibers are less brittle, so working with it does not cause allergic reactions in humans. This insulation is preferable to other materials in terms of environmental parameters and moisture resistance. Other characteristics look like this:

The question often arises whether it is necessary to carry out additional thermal insulation in places where the insulation meets heating structures in the attic, for example, a chimney. Basalt wool is an absolutely non-flammable material, so there is no need to perform this work.

The cost of this wool is slightly more expensive than other mineral insulation materials. On average, for a package of 8 slabs measuring 1200×600×50 mm you will have to pay 600-650 rubles.

Bulk wool

A relatively new insulation material on the construction market is non-flammable bulk (blown) wool. The basis of this material is basalt wool, made in the form of hydrophobized fibers.

The average price of blown-in cotton wool per 1 m 3 is 950-1000 rubles.

Summarizing mineral insulation, it should be noted that insulating the attic of a private house with any type of mineral wool is the cheapest option. Taking into account the cost of materials included in the calculation to create a thermal insulation cake, the final price of mineral wool insulation will be in the range of 200 -300 rubles per 1 m 2.

Polyurethane insulation

To insulate areas of complex geometry and hard-to-reach places in the attic, it is recommended to use sprayed universal polyurethane insulation PPU. It comes in cylinders. Beneficial features this insulation:

• absence of seams and cold bridges, which reduces additional heat loss;
• creating a sealed layer that prevents the formation of mold and mildew;
• good adhesion to any building materials;
• selection of the required thickness of the insulating layer;
• absolute lack of reaction to temperature changes.

The price of a cylinder of polyurethane foam insulation, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 500 rubles.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)

Insulating an attic space with foam boards is a common method. This material has such positive qualities as:

• light weight;
• moisture resistance;
• good thermal insulation and vapor barrier properties;
• resistance to impact external environment and long service life;
• good sound insulation.

TO weak side polystyrene foam can be attributed to its susceptibility to mechanical stress.

From a price point of view, expanded polystyrene sheets are a cost-effective material. Using the popular PSB-S brand as an example, the cost of 1 m 3 of foam plastic boards, meter by meter in size, is 1,500 rubles.

Expanded clay

Insulating an attic with bulk material is a long-tested and easy-to-install method. The advantages of this material also include:

• fire resistance;
• good strength and long service life;
• excellent sound and heat insulation;
• environmental Safety.

The cost of a bag of expanded clay averages 1,500 rubles per m 3. This is not the cheapest insulation material.

Clay mixtures, moss

The most inexpensive heat insulators, undoubtedly, are mixtures of clay with sawdust or straw. Sawdust is often an unclaimed industrial waste, so it can be found for free.

Swamp or forest moss also falls into this category of free insulation materials. Despite the fact that insulation with these materials is considered an “old-fashioned” method, their thermal protection coefficient is higher than that of many modern insulation materials, and their environmental friendliness and even benefits, if we are talking about clay, are undeniable.

DIY attic insulation technology

Before starting work on insulating the attic, regardless of how you plan to insulate the attic - with mineral wool or other materials, it is necessary to prepare for this work not only the structural elements of the room, but also arm yourself with the necessary tools and available materials. These include:

• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• screwdrivers;
• roulette;
• construction knife;
• a long ruler or even strip;
• stapler;
• wide spatula;
• hydraulic gun;
• square;
• level;
• boards or sheets of plywood for cutting insulation on them.

The attic insulation technology used is selected taking into account the planned purpose of this room - heated housing in the attic or simply an insulated attic.

Unheated room

In an unheated attic, insulation is carried out both on the floor itself and on the roof.

Insulating the attic floor in a private house

The technology for laying insulation on the attic floor basically comes down to the following:

1. Laying vapor barrier material on the subfloor, overlapping and extending onto the walls;
2. Sealing all joints and seams with special sealing self-adhesive double-sided tape;
3. Laying the insulation directly, starting from the far edge of the roof slope;
4. Covering the insulation with a vapor barrier layer, sealing all seams with tape.

During cutting work, the material is placed under it. wooden plank or plywood.

Roof insulation

After insulating the floor, work is carried out to protect the gables and roof slopes from the cold using the following technology:

1. Attaching the waterproofing material to the rafters, starting from the ridge part, rolling out the rolls across the inner surface of the roof.
2. Laying insulation between the rafters, with mandatory fixation.
3. Cover with a vapor barrier layer, starting work from the bottom of the roof, in order to prevent condensation from flowing onto the insulation.
4. Fixing the film to the rafters using slats.

Heated room

When considering the question of how and with what to insulate a heated attic, it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that in this case there is no need to insulate the attic floor from the living space, as well as to install a vapor barrier layer on it. Only the roof is subject to insulation. The technique of this work looks similar to insulating the roof of a cold attic.

As last advice, it should be noted that it will be somewhat difficult for the owner of the house alone to work with some types of insulation and finish the attic.

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