What kind of chicken coop is needed for 10 chickens? Livestock farming: how to build a chicken coop for ten chickens with your own hands. Drawings and diagrams. Ceiling and roof

Calculations show that for a family of three people it is enough to keep 8 laying hens and two roosters to fully provide themselves with high-quality eggs and a quarter of dietary meat. At the same time, there are almost no problems with maintaining such quantities. It's not even necessary to have a private house with a large garden plot. It is enough to build a mini chicken coop in the country.

Preparatory work

The simplest option is to use any barn for cage-keeping poultry. A free space of 3-4 m2 is freed up and a rack is placed in four cells in two tiers. The cells are taken in size 100x50 cm. The first level from the floor is 45-55 cm, the next 120 cm.

A light is installed in each cell; a minimal bulb is sufficient, but it must shine for at least 16 hours a day. Nipple drinkers are used, and hanging tray feeders are used.

Under each cage there is a retractable tray for removing feces and debris. Thermal conditions in winter are ensured by general heating of the barn.

This type of chicken coop is usually used for keeping broilers and laying hens. In this case, cockerels are not needed.

Technical specifications for the designer

To build a permanent chicken coop, you already have to take into account a number of additional factors and make a preliminary design.

Before designing a chicken coop, you should decide on the basic parameters.

Consider the option:

• chicken is kept throughout the year;
• on winter period No more than 4 hens and one rooster are left. The temperature is maintained at 12-18°C. Walking is not provided;
• the summer period provides for an increase in the number of birds to 10. On a warm day, a walk is provided;
• We are building a wooden chicken coop with a fenced-in walking yard. A foundation for such a chicken coop is not needed. We should make it mobile and stand quietly on any elevated, not damp place;
• for the main room we proceed from the standard norm of 1 m2 for 4 chickens or the box size is 2x1x1.5 m. If in summer it is better to place it in the area of ​​​​a green lawn, then in winter it can be placed directly in the barn. At the same time, the outside is additionally insulated with polyurethane foam mats;
• the option of additional insulation of the chicken coop for the winter is being considered;
• For walking you need to fence off an area of ​​10 m2.

Main room

Despite its modest size, the design of such a chicken coop must be thought out. There is no need to fence him in hastily.

First, drawings are prepared, materials are purchased, and only then construction begins. Let's consider the simplest option.

The building material chosen is:

• timber 15x15 – 18 m;
• timber 10x10 – 13 m;
• 4 mm plywood or lining – 10.5 m2;
• roofing sheet material – 2.25 m2.

Self-tapping screws, metal corners for fastening, furniture hinges and other accessories.

Walls

Choose a dry place next to a green lawn. We lay 10x10 timber around the perimeter on 4 bricks. The base area is 2x1 m. Using the corners, we secure the frame. Next we make exactly the same one for the top floor.

We take 4 vertical posts from the same timber, 1.5 m long. We make a parallelepiped from two bases and vertical posts. We reinforce the narrow sides onto a triangle with 50x50 blocks diagonally. We cover the sides, roof and floor with multi-layer plywood or clapboard.
On one of the wide sides we leave a passage for chickens.

From the base to the top crossbar is 50 cm. Vertical doors are hung on the horizontal crossbar using furniture hinges. It is enough to make 4, each 50 cm wide. When open, the door should be fixed.

We make a skylight under the ceiling. Possible for the entire length. The free space is covered with plywood. On the opposite side, swing doors are made with an opening width of 180 cm and a height of 150 cm.

When open, such doors allow you to freely work with the interior of the chicken coop without entering it:

• provide food and water;
• collect egg;
• clean and disinfect;
• repair nests and perches.

For convenience, it is worth putting two mosquito nets over the doorway. One across the entire width from the floor and a height of 50 cm. The second for the remaining space. It will be possible in good weather Keep the doors open during the day and service the chicken coop by removing only the top one, which will block the chicken's free exit.

Such a chicken coop is insulated with any mineral or polymer heat insulator from the outside. The heat insulator is sheathed on top with any flat material. At a distance of 50-70 cm from the base it is worth sheathing with galvanized iron to prevent the penetration of rodents.

Light

For light in the chicken coop in summer, a window is enough. In winter, you can install external lighting and again the window will let in enough light for the normal functioning of the chickens.

Roof

The roof should be made pitched with a slope on one of the narrow sides. Water will not flow into the walking yard and interfere with approaching the structure. It is better to make the roof in the form of a separate structural element made of 5x5 cm timber.

The general view is represented by a 200x100 cm rectangle made of timber at the base, with one vertical wall 100x50 cm and a slope covered with roofing material. All side walls are covered with plywood. We install the resulting structure on top and secure it with clamps that keep it from gusts of wind.

If the roof is secured with temporary clamps, such a portable constructor will allow you to remove the chicken coop into the barn for the winter. Instead of a permanent year-round structure, there will be a lightweight summer portable version. The frame for a portable chicken coop can be made not from timber, but from an aluminum tube with a diameter of 25-35 mm.

Connection with triangular clamps. Use removable panels as walls. The option will be lightweight and completely collapsible, which is convenient for storage and general disinfection.

Important! For a portable version of the chicken coop, wall insulation is not required.

Inner space

Separately, it is worth noting how the internal arrangement of the chicken coop is arranged. The ideal option is when feeders and drinkers are located next to the working doors, slightly distributed on the right and left sides. Leaving the middle free. It is convenient to place the nests in two rows of four on each narrow side. The first row is at a height of 50 cm, the second 100 cm.

For perching, it is enough to place one pole along the chicken coop, above the exit for the birds, at a height of 50-70 cm, for the entire length of the chicken coop, 200 cm.

The floor must be covered with grass or peat, or wood shavings can be used. This device option internal space will be ideal for optimizing space. When caring for a bird, there is no need to go into the chicken coop. Almost everything can be done while outside.

The chicken has enough space to feel comfortable. A laying hen, secluded in a nest, can not only lay eggs, but, if necessary, she can be placed to hatch chicks.

Walking yard

The second structural element of a mini chicken coop is a walking yard. You can do without it. It all depends on the design of the common utility yard.

The dacha has its own specifics, where every square meter has its own purpose and there are many garden plantings that a chicken can damage. In this case, you should worry about the walking yard.

For the structure itself, it is enough to make an adjacent fence to the side with doors for poultry walking. The mounting posts should be made of metal on tripods divided into sections of 2 meters. It is convenient to make the fence itself from a chain-link mesh with a height of 120-150 cm.

It is important that the adjacent to the chicken coop and the lower strip of the fence do not allow the chicken to go out and walk throughout the entire territory of the dacha.

The total fenced area should be 500x200 cm or in other words 10 m2. A container filled with wood ash for dry baths and tray feeders with drinkers must be placed on it.

The site itself is prepared in advance. Grass is sown on the selected soil in the fall. Chickens are released when the grass rises to a height of 5-10 cm. For crop rotation, with this technology it is good to have two sites - one is in use, the second is being prepared for the next year.
So, with a little patience and 12 m2 of free territory, you can eat fresh chicken eggs all year round and enjoy communication with a beautiful bird in the summer.

Mini-poultry farms built on private plots are designed for exactly this number of individuals. A dozen laying hens are enough to provide the average family with eggs, optimally develop the territory and not have problems with the owners of adjacent housing constructions. How to build small chicken coop with your own hands, without starting large-scale construction, and will become the subject of conversation.

What to consider before construction

To those who are breeding poultry I haven’t done this before, so I should clarify a few things. Building a chicken coop is not difficult in principle. Anyone who is used to doing everything with their own hands, and not paying for the services of hired craftsmen, will be able to handle this task, especially since this building is not a residential building with its ceilings, internal walls, communications, and so on.

And if you focus on ready-made diagrams or drawings with all the indicated dimensions, then the work is greatly simplified. But it will only be useful if all technological operations are carried out meaningfully. What conditions should be created for chickens so that they do not get sick and lay eggs well?

The author specifically draws the reader's attention to this. Knowledge of such nuances will help remake any finished drawing at your own discretion, if for some reason the layout and dimensions of the designed chicken coop are not suitable for local conditions.

• Humidity. The room should be moderately dry. A damp chicken coop is one of the main causes of poultry illness. This means that you need to think about how to properly organize ventilation.
• Temperature (ºС). Optimal values: in winter – within 12, in summer – no more than 24 (increasing it will sharply reduce the ability of chickens to lay eggs).
• Lighting. Birds love light, so you may need to consider installing a light in your coop. If there is no great need for it in summer, then in winter, when daylight hours are significantly reduced, artificial lighting will definitely be required. Taking into account the number of chickens (10) and the corresponding dimensions of the house, it is enough to place 1 light bulb of 60 - 75 W in it.
• Security. Firstly, from extraneous irritating sounds: chickens do not like noise. Secondly, from predators and rodents. Even if the former do not manage to strangle the chickens, they will most likely kill the laid eggs. Rodents are no less dangerous, since they are the main carriers of infections that make chickens sick and die.
• Opportunity to mix freely. To raise chickens and provide conditions for good laying of eggs (there is such a term - egg production), one house is clearly not enough. We also need a small walking area.

Now we can move on to the issue of building a chicken coop. As indicated - small, for 10 chickens.

Preparatory activities

Drawing up a drawing

Experience in breeding chickens shows that for 10 chickens a house of 4 - 5 m² is sufficient. If possible, it is advisable to increase the area of ​​the chicken coop to 6 - 7. Firstly, different breeds of chickens have their own “standards”, and secondly, if the number increases slightly, you won’t have to redo anything.

The area for “chicken walks” should be located on the side of the house that is illuminated most of the day.

Selecting a location

You should focus on the following requirements:

• For 1 individual - at least 1 m² of walking area. Plus – the house itself.
• The segment of the territory on which the chicken coop is being built must be well lit. Therefore, placing it in the shade of tall objects (houses, trees, solid fences) is not recommended.
• When choosing a place for a chicken coop, you need to take into account the likelihood of flooding of the house and site with rain (melt) water. Based on this, they cannot be built in lowlands.
• It is advisable to place the chicken coop as far as possible from residential buildings and roads: the bird needs peace and quiet.

On a note! When choosing a location, you should not forget about regulatory documents. According to SNiP (No. 30-02 of 1997), there must be at least 4 m between the chicken coop and the external fence of the land plot.

Selection of materials

It is difficult to give recommendations on this point. Firstly, every owner always has some material left over from building a house, a summer kitchen, a fence or something else. Secondly, an important detail is financial capabilities. But one piece of advice will still not be superfluous.

Metal cannot be used. Any other material (and characterized by low thermal conductivity), just not “iron”. It regularly, even throughout the day, changes temperature + constant condensation of moisture on the surface.

The optimal material for a chicken coop is wood and... In the latter case - cellular sheets. They retain heat well and ensure a constant microclimate in the building.

Chicken coop construction process

Marking

The dimensions of the chicken coop (house + platform) have already been mentioned. If possible, the building should be positioned so that as much light as possible enters the windows.

Site preparation

• It needs to be leveled, and so that a slight slope is obtained. This is necessary to naturally remove water from the coop during (and after) rainfall. You may also have to think about installing a drainage system in this segment.
• To protect against rodents from below, it is advisable to install a “barrier” (a small layer of soil is first removed). Clay is taken and broken glass is added to it. This mass is laid out in a layer over the entire site.
• It is advisable to pour expanded clay on top. It will provide additional insulation of the bottom (floor) of the chicken coop.

Foundation

This is the most expensive stage of any construction. Taking into account the small weight of the chicken coop, the optimal solution is a base or columnar type. It is not difficult to install such a foundation with your own hands, and you will not have to do extensive excavation work, damaging the root system of the plantings.

Screw piles are simply screwed into the ground, and a head is mounted on each. With pillars it is somewhat more difficult - you will have to drill holes. Pipes can be used as supports - metal or asbestos-cement. Since seasonal soil movements are not uncommon, they will have to be strengthened. Reinforcing bars are inserted inside the pipes (the central one should rise slightly to connect with the support frame) and concrete solution is poured.

If we provide for the chicken coop house to be elevated above the ground, then this space will partially replace the poultry walking area. It is enough to raise the building by about half a meter, and you can save space on the site.

House

The process of erecting walls and ceilings (roofs) is not worth describing, since in essence it is a small box (frame) covered with boards. But there are some features that require more detailed consideration.

Door

At the bottom of the canvas (or on the side) there must be a hole for birds (30 x 30 is enough) with a small threshold.

Window

The main requirement is that their total area must be at least 0.1 of the same floor area. The owner decides how many windows to install - 1 large or 3-4 small ones.

Walls

Regardless of the material, they need to be insulated. When choosing a heat insulator, you need to focus on its vapor permeability, otherwise dampness in the chicken coop cannot be avoided. From these positions, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is no longer needed. As a rule, a layer of mineral wool is laid, and the top is covered with a thin board or multi-layer plywood. This is enough not to think about artificially heating the chicken coop.

Floor

The principle is the same - double flooring, between the levels of which insulation is laid. Taking into account the expanded clay bedding, it is enough to keep the chicken coop warm.

Roof

The optimal schemes are single- or double-slope. Also – insulation and waterproofing.

Interior design

Ventilation

These can be either pipes or technological holes. But always with the ability to regulate air flow. Their location: supply - in any far corner, exhaust - above the perch.

Electrical/wiring

Only external, and in boxes. This is a standard requirement for all wooden buildings.

Perches

The slats must be not just planed, but also polished. The height from the floorboards is about 75 cm. In a chicken coop for 10 chickens, one perch is not enough, so at least three are installed, on the same level, with an interval of half a meter. In such conditions, the chickens will not interfere with each other.

Laying nests

One for 3-4 birds is enough. Therefore, for 10 chickens, four will be enough. There are many design options, but the requirements are the same. The width and height are at least 35, but the depth is somewhat greater - about 40 (cm).

Bedding

This is not only convenient for laying hens, but also provides additional insulation for the chicken coop. Not only the nests are covered, but also the floor in the room. Options: straw, sawdust, peat. The main thing is to change it in a timely manner. Normal humidity and cleanliness are essential conditions for comfortable living for the inhabitants of the chicken coop.

Poultry walking area

Its dimensions are already indicated. It’s not difficult to set up - pillars around the perimeter +. What to consider? For more intensive removal of moisture from the territory, in addition to the slope of the site, care must be taken to ensure good absorption of liquid into the soil. Therefore, it cannot be concreted or “rolled” into asphalt. The best option is to fill it with ASG, only with small fractions of filler. Chickens love to peck pebbles (for better digestion of food), so you should not use anything else for “flooring”.

Poultry breeding is a common and affordable type subsidiary farming. Fresh, environmentally friendly products are always in demand. In addition, building a chicken coop with your own hands is not difficult. All you need is some theoretical knowledge and construction skills.

Domestic chicken is quite unpretentious. It has been observed that poultry productivity increases in conditions where they feel safe. In order for the flock to wait out bad weather, keep warm in winter and lay eggs, chicken coops of various types are built.

Portable

Mobile chicken coops are used in warm weather. They can be transferred from one place to another as the birds eat green grass. Designed to hold 10-20 individuals. The design combines a chicken house and a run covered with mesh.

Stationary

Do-it-yourself capital chicken coop is built from different materials- wood, cinder blocks, aerated concrete and even earth. Poultry is raised in such buildings all year round. In a stationary room there are favorable conditions both in winter cold and in summer heat.

Multi-tiered

It is convenient to raise poultry in structures consisting of several tiers. At the same time, it is possible to avoid crowding of the herd in a small area. Each level houses hens or chicks of the same age. In addition to saving space, this makes maintenance easier.

Features of chicken coops

Walking

The ability to move, be in the sun and rummage in the ground is beneficial to the health and fertility of the chicken. Eggs contain greatest number vitamins and nutrients. It is especially important to have a range for breeding breeds and producing chickens.

Seasonality

Uninsulated seasonal chicken coop - best option, if it is not possible to raise poultry all year round. Over the summer, it is possible to raise 1-2 broilers, characterized by rapid weight gain. They are often kept in cages without free range.

Capacity

Overconsolidation has a negative impact on herd productivity. Veterinary standards recommend allocating at least 0.2 m² of space per chicken when kept on deep litter, 0.08 m² in a cage or on a mesh floor.

Chicken coop location

Chickens develop active life functions only during daylight hours. The most favorable orientation of the chicken coop is with windows facing south or southeast.

The site must have a slope to drain rain or melt water and not be blown by strong winds. In the aviary you need to organize a shady area where the birds could hide during the heat. These are trees, shrubs or canopies.

Important. At high air temperatures, laying hens stop laying eggs, and broilers are reluctant to eat feed. To protect the poultry house from excessive heat from the sun, it is located in light shade.

The structure must have easy access to bring food and water.

Poultry house dimensions

The dimensions of the chicken coop are chosen taking into account the optimal placement of the livestock and ease of maintenance. Based on the minimum standards, the area of ​​a poultry house for 10-20 chickens when kept on deep litter is at least 2-4 m².

Chickens love to sleep on a perch - a horizontal bar raised and secured above the floor. For an adult bird you will need 20-25 cm, for a chicken - 15 cm. If the perch is too long, it is divided into parts and placed parallel to each other at a distance of at least 30-35 cm.

In the barn there is sometimes a bath for bathing in ash. Each “swimmer” will require 0.12 m² of pool area.

To obtain eggs, laying hens are provided with nests at the rate of 2-3 pieces per 10 hens 2-3. The size of one “seat” is 35x35 cm.

Drawings and diagrams ready

For building a chicken coop with your own hands for 10-20 chickens, we already offer finished projects. They are designed according to standards and facilitate the independent construction of a poultry house.

For 10 laying hens kept on deep litter in a chicken coop with walking, the following parameters are optimal:

• warm room - 1.2x1.7 = 2.04 m²;
• along one long wall there is a perch 1.7 m long;
• nests are placed along any other side - 3 pieces measuring 0.3x0.3 m;
• open range - 1.2x3 m = 3.6 m².

Important. When breeding different breeds, it is recommended to arrange a separate room and walking area for each species. Birds have different feeding and waking patterns, so it is advisable that the chickens do not interfere with each other.

Broilers do not need nests or perches. The birds are too heavy and sleep on a horizontal surface. As a rule, they are not kept longer than 3 months, so there is no question about obtaining eggs. Often meat breeds are raised without walking. When movement is limited, they gain weight faster.

Sometimes cages with chickens or broilers are placed on the top tier of the chicken coop, and the free space below is used for laying hens. This option is used if the area of ​​the room is limited. The advantage is that it is cost-effective; the disadvantage is that infections are transmitted at lightning speed and more frequent sanitization is required.

Drawings and photos of chicken coops for 10-20 chickens

SNIP standards 30-02-97 room parameters

When building a stationary chicken coop with your own hands, you are guided by SNiP 30-02-97 standards, which limit the location of livestock sheds relative to neighboring objects:

• retreat at least 4 m from the fence or boundary;
• from a residential building (your own and a neighbor’s) - 12 m;
• from a water intake well or well - 20 m;
• in case of blocking, arrange a separate entrance no closer than 7 m from the entrance to the residential building.

If standards are not followed, neighbors have the right to go to court. As a rule, a decision is made to demolish the building. There are no clear regulations for portable structures.

DIY chicken coop general instructions

The simplest and most affordable poultry house is a frame one. It is constructed from boards or timber, insulated, sheathed on the outside and inside. This design provides reliable protection from the cold, does not require a massive foundation, and the materials are inexpensive.

Construction is carried out according to the scheme:

1. Excavation.
2. Construction of the foundation.
3. Installation of wall, ceiling and roof frames.
4. Insulation of walls, installation of roofing.
5. Installation of windows, doors.
6. Internal arrangement, laying of communications.
7. Finishing.

For outdoor keeping, an additional enclosure is provided.

Nuances of foundation construction

The best option for a frame winter chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is a prefabricated columnar or monolithic foundation. In the first case, you will need concrete blocks or clay bricks, in the second - reinforcement and concrete. Asbestos-cement pipes, boards and even car tires are used for formwork.

In the corners of the structure and every 1.5-2 meters along the perimeter, holes are dug 0.5-0.7 m deep. A mixture of crushed stone and sand is poured onto the bottom. The supports are laid out from blocks or formwork is installed and poured with concrete.

An anchor or pin is placed in the base in advance to secure the strapping beam. The surface of the foundation is coated liquid waterproofing in 2 layers.

Arranging the walls of the chicken coop

A lower frame beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm (can be made of 2 boards per edge), treated to prevent rotting with mining or other antiseptic, is placed on the supports. They fasten it in the corners “in the paw” or with metal plates.

Install racks from 100x50 mm boards in increments of 1-1.2 m. Mount the top trim along the top. The corners are reinforced with jibs.

The walls are sheathed on both sides with OSB, slabs of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam 100 mm thick are laid inside (preferably in 2 layers of 50 mm each with bandaging of the joints). To protect against rodents, the insulation is covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

Roof, ceiling and floor of the chicken coop

Floor beams are attached to the top frame with overlays, and rafters are cut into place. The connection in the ridge is reinforced with a metal plate.

A sheathing of edged boards is installed along the rafters. Roofing material is laid. In most cases, these are inexpensive asbestos-cement sheets.

Hem the ceiling with a board. On top there is insulation. You can pour a layer of expanded clay or lime-treated sawdust, lay mineral wool, wrapping it with a vapor barrier, or polystyrene foam boards.

Floors

The most inexpensive solution is insulated floors on the ground:

1. The top layer of soil with plant residues is removed and the surface is compacted.
2. Add sand and compact it.
3. Lay polystyrene foam 50 mm thick.
4. Spread waterproofing from a thick film.
5. The reinforcing mesh is installed, concrete is laid, and leveled.

Sawdust, straw, moss, sunflower husks, pine needles, and dry leaves are poured onto the finished floors. To accelerate the disposal of poultry waste products, the litter is treated with special bacterial preparations.

Concrete floors are easy to maintain. Twice a year, the litter is removed and the surface is washed with disinfectant solutions.

Ventilation in the chicken coop in winter

To equip a chicken coop with your own hands for 10-20 chickens, the simplest ventilation system is sufficient. In summer, when the doors are open, air exchange occurs constantly. In winter, accumulated excess moisture and harmful gases must be removed in time.

Ventilation is arranged from two vertical pipes. The supply air is located at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor. The bottom of the exhaust is fixed near the ceiling.

Pipes are placed in different parts of the room to increase the volume of moving air. The holes are protected with nets from rodents, and rain caps are installed on top.

Arrangement of the chicken coop inside

To feed the birds you will need feeders. You can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Bunker and feed dosing devices are convenient. Mounted or tray options are also popular.

A mandatory attribute of the poultry house is a drinking bowl. On sale are simple bowls, containers for an inverted jar or bottle, float, siphon and nipple drinkers.

Nests can be made from ordinary boxes or boxes. Straw and sawdust are placed inside. Place them in a quiet corner, away from feeders.

The perch is made from a wooden block with a cross-section of 50x70 mm. For meat-egg breeds it is fixed at a height of 60 cm from the litter, for laying hens - 90 cm. To prevent the perch from sagging under the weight of the bird, a support is installed in the middle.

Lighting the chicken coop in winter

In winter, chickens lay eggs worse due to the short daylight hours. You can increase productivity by using lighting during dark hours.

For every 6 m² of room, a power of 60 W is required. The most favorable spectrum is emitted by fluorescent lamps.

Important. According to the observations of poultry farmers, the egg production of chickens increases under orange light; under green light, chickens grow faster. Blue has a calming effect and reduces aggression.

Heating a chicken coop in winter with and without electricity

Warmth increases bird productivity in winter. For heating use:

• oil radiators;
• infrared emitters;
• air convectors.

The devices are economical and allow you to maintain optimal temperature in the poultry house.

Along with electric heating, other methods are common:

• heating with a wood stove or stove;
• connection to the house heating network if the chicken coop is connected to the house;
• using the heat generated by permanent bedding.

These methods are used if there is no electricity nearby or heating with it is uneconomical.

Do-it-yourself heating of a chicken coop in winter using sawdust

The old method is still used in villages. It is based on an increase in temperature in the litter during the decomposition of organic matter. The energy released as a result of the exothermic process is sufficient to heat a small chicken coop.

The technology is simple. The floors are first sprinkled with slaked lime to prevent the breeding of harmful insects. On top is bedding material with a thickness of at least 8-10 cm. As the bedding compacts, fresh bedding is added, loosening the previous layer with a rake.

Poultry breeding is a profitable and uncomplicated activity. If the chicken coop is set up correctly, it will bring not only benefits, but also pleasure.

Winter chicken coop for 10-20 chickens, the work of our reader with step-by-step instructions for completing the work.

The construction of the building took a total of 3 months by one person.

The chicken coop is designed to keep birds in summer and winter.

Dimensions of a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens with walking - length 6 m, width 4 m, height 3.5 m.

Size: 1st floor – 2x2x0.8, 2nd floor – 2x3x1.7, 1st floor paddock – 2x2, 2nd floor paddock – 4x4.

Material used: gas silicate blocks, cement, iron pipes, waterproofing material, expanded clay, wooden beams 100x100 and 50x50, boards: 25x100 and 25x50, unedged board 25, sand, insulation: polystyrene foam and mineral wool, glassine, roofing material (Bikrost 4.0), chipboards, chain-link mesh 50x50.

Tools used: screwdriver, chainsaw, square, hacksaw, hammer, axe, shovel, level, tape measure.

Additional material: old windows, curtains, latches, handles, screws, sewer pipes d110 (for ventilation), cable, lamps, nails, paint, antiseptic.

Beginning of work:

Once we have decided on the location of the chicken coop, we mark out the area of ​​the building (6 x 4 m)

Along the marking circle at a shallow depth, we align the blocks according to the level. Blocks and inside markings, because We will have 2 walks. One paddock for laying hens, the second for broilers. Iron pipes were placed at the joints (there were 9 pieces), and they were filled with cement (to prevent subsidence of the structure).

We lay waterproofing material on the blocks - the first layer of bikrost, then wooden beams prepared to size (100x100). To prevent wood rotting, we treat it with an antiseptic.

Level the area of ​​the chicken coop with sand.

Assembling the frame of the first floor. For this you need wooden beams (100x100).

We also see in the photo that the beams are longer than the chicken coop itself - this is a place for nests.

To insulate the floor of the first floor, we fill in expanded clay.

Cover the floor. Boards measuring 50x150. We lay linoleum on the boards. We will also lay the floor of the second floor.

We install the rafters.

We cover the walls of the first floor with 25x100 boards.

We cut a window in the wall the size that is available. We had an old window that was not particularly restored, the main thing was that it was not broken.

The wall is on the second floor, but they also prepared a place for a window on the second floor and an exit for the chickens. The window around it was given a beautiful finish, so that there would be fewer cracks.

View from the large chicken run.

Wall cladding.

Assembling the nest frame.

Work on the roof: we lay the roof with unedged boards, and also make a canopy.

Sew up the visor.

We cover the roof with bicrost 4.0 with sprinkles.

We line the inside walls with glassine.

We insulate the walls with mineral wool insulation. Then we cover it with chipboards.

Since our “Chain-link” mesh is smaller in size than the height of the walls of the chicken coop run, additional boards were nailed down so that the mesh could be secured. Of course, it was possible to immediately make the height smaller, but at the very beginning they somehow didn’t calculate it, and given the fact that there are 2 other people’s vegetable gardens next door, the nimble chickens could have escaped.

The doors for the chicken coop were made in advance, using improvised materials: chipboard, plywood, small blocks and insulation were used.

Next is painting the chicken coop. Ventilation - they also made it themselves from sewer pipes. The doors for the paddocks were made as they were invented, nothing complicated. Lighting in the chicken coop - 2 lamps (night and day). Also, the staircase from the house to the street is the largest board with small bars that we nailed ourselves. There were 5 nests, which were separated from each other by chipboard slabs.

The doors of the chicken coop open like in the fairy tale “Little Red Riding Hood” - pull the string and the door will open.

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Keeping chickens at home is not only fashionable, but also profitable. Chicken eggs are a healthy and tasty dietary product, and the meat is much easier on the stomach than pork or beef. To ensure that chickens do not get sick, grow quickly and lay eggs well, it is necessary to build a chicken coop that will provide the birds comfortable conditions. To build a chicken coop with your own hands for 10 chickens, you need not only diagrams and materials, but also an understanding of the needs of the bird and the optimal conditions for keeping it.

Homemade chicken coop

To figure out what a chicken coop should be like, you need to understand why it is needed. The bird spends the night in the chicken coop and lays eggs, so it must protect from rain, cold, dampness, rodents and predators. Chickens do not clean up after themselves, so the coop should be high enough so that you can clean it of droppings. In addition, it is necessary to provide places for nesting and resting.

No less important characteristics chicken coop - lighting and ventilation. Lack of lighting will lead to a decrease in fertility, and poor ventilation will weaken the health of the birds and they will begin to get sick.

Video: chicken coops for 10 chickens

Preparing to build a chicken coop

During preparation, you need to determine the location for installing the chicken coop, think about its internal architecture and appearance, as well as decide on the material for the roof, walls and insulation. To build good chicken coop for 10 chickens, do-it-yourself drawings must be developed taking into account the characteristics of the site and your height.

Using ready-made drawings will simplify construction, but complicate bird care.

• It is not advisable to make the area of ​​the chicken coop less than 4 square meters. m.;
• there should be 2–4 nests in the chicken coop;

• feeders must be placed along the wall opposite the perch;
• the feeding system must have a door for cleaning and loading from the outside;
• feeders and drinkers should rise 5–10 cm above the floor;

• the floor should be smooth but non-slip;
• the perch is installed at a height of 40–60 cm;

• the total area of ​​windows should not be less than 10% of the floor area (optimally 20–30%);
• The chicken coop should be adjacent to a fenced area (aviary) for walking at the rate of 1–2 square meters. m. per bird;
• A ladder must be installed between the chicken coop and the walking area.

Choosing a location for the chicken coop

For When constructing a chicken coop, a small elevation, sheltered from the winds, is suitable, preferably on the south side of the house, in this case the birds will get more sunlight and there will be no drafts in the chicken coop. Never build a chicken coop in low areas. When it rains, the water will wash away the chicken droppings and spread them throughout your property. This can lead to various intestinal diseases in humans, as well as colds in birds. The distance from the chicken coop or aviary to (the border of your site) should not be less than 4 meters. If you take water from a well or well, then the distance from them to the chicken coop should be at least 40 meters.

Drawing up drawings

A do-it-yourself chicken coop for 10 chickens, drawings of which can be found on the Internet, does not take into account the characteristics of your site, so you can draw up your own drawing based on it. To draw up drawings, a few sheets of squared notebooks, a pencil and a ruler are enough. In the drawing you need:

• draw the outlines of the chicken coop and indicate its dimensions;
• draw the location of internal elements;
• indicate the height of the walls.

This will help you in determining the amount of building materials and preparing the foundation. When drawing up the drawing, think about what material you will build the walls from and how you will attach them to the foundation. Numerous forums for poultry farming enthusiasts and novice farmers will help you with this.

Material selection

The optimal materials for building a chicken coop are boards and. They are inexpensive and easy to work with.

If you have surplus, then you can build walls from it, or select some other material. The only material that is not suitable for building a chicken coop is sheet iron. The best quality is mineral wool, which will not block the escape of moisture to the outside if something happens to the ventilation. Mineral wool has only one drawback - it is afraid of water. You can use regular straw instead.

Having purchased the necessary building materials and decided on the shape, size and architecture, you can begin construction. To build a chicken coop with your own hands for 10 chickens, invite an assistant. Many jobs are much more convenient to do together.

Foundation

Any type of foundation is suitable for a chicken coop, but the easiest to make is a strip foundation. Dig a hole 30 cm deep, the length and width of which is 20–30 cm greater than the dimensions of the chicken coop. Compact the ground and pour a crushed stone cushion 10–15 cm thick. Install formwork on it around the perimeter of the chicken coop, laying down waterproofing - pieces of roofing felt. The width of the formwork is equal to the width of the wall, and the height should raise the floor above ground level by 15–30 cm. Two weeks after pouring the foundation, wooden walls can be erected. If you decide to build brick walls, then you need to wait 4 weeks.

Walls and roof

These jobs do not require any special qualifications. If you want your building to be no worse than do-it-yourself chicken coops for 10 chickens, photos of which are posted on the Internet, invite a professional carpenter or mason, however, the chickens still won’t appreciate it. If you make a roof from transparent polycarbonate, you will seriously improve it, which will have a positive effect on the egg production of birds and their general condition.

Interior architecture

To create a perch, use square bars or straight branches from trees 4-7 cm thick. Do not use round or polished bars for them - it is difficult for birds to stay on them, which is why they will not sleep well. This will negatively affect their general condition and egg production. To make nests, you can use any wooden boxes measuring 30x30x40 cm (width, height, depth).

Once construction is complete, lay clean straw on the floor of the coop. Ventilate using plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. The pipe should rise above the ground at least two meters, then pass through the wall and go down to the floor of the chicken coop. On the opposite wall it is necessary to provide a small openable window for ventilation.

The video below will help you build and arrange a chicken coop with your own hands.

Video: DIY chicken coop

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You can breed chickens even on a small country plot. The costs will be quite small. And all because you can build a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands, using a ready-made drawing as a basis.

General arrangement of chicken coops and their types

All chicken coops consist of two main areas: for overnight stays and for daytime walking. Based on this, poultry houses can be roughly classified as follows:

1. Chicken coop with free range area. The chicken house is separate, and the birds can move freely around the site. Such a chicken coop has one drawback - it is difficult to control the chickens, which can spoil the flower beds. Wherein chicken droppings will be dispersed throughout the site.
2. Combined chicken coop. This is the best option for full-fledged poultry keeping. The main thing is to choose the correct dimensions of the building and the walking area.
3. Closed chicken coop. As a rule, these are greenhouses converted for keeping birds. Requires constant cleaning. They have proven themselves well as a summer home for chickens.
4. Cells. If the size of the plot does not allow you to install a full-fledged chicken coop, you can install hanging cages for keeping chickens on the wall of a barn or house. They are placed at a low height, in several rows above each other. The walking area is either left free or a small enclosure is built. Such bird houses have proven themselves well when raising meat chickens.
5. Mobile chicken coops. Most often these are small summer houses that can be moved or transported using wheels installed at the bottom. They are designed for 5-10 chickens. Made from lightweight material.

Photo gallery: different types of chicken coops

A closed chicken coop will prevent birds from running around the entire area A chicken coop with a free-range area requires attention from the owner, since he will have to keep an eye on the birds A chicken coop with an aviary is suitable for a plot of any size The aviary can be located under the chicken coop itself Chickens can be kept in specially equipped cages Cells can be arranged in rows Mobile chicken coops can be easily moved

Interior arrangement of the chicken coop

The chicken coop must be equipped with a perch, drinking bowl, feeder and nest. The health of the birds and their egg production depend on how correctly and conveniently the house is equipped.

The perch consists of perches with a diameter of 5–7 cm. They are installed at a height of 40–60 cm from the floor. The length of the perch is taken at the rate of 20–25 cm per head. There can be several perches; they can be installed in different ways.

Bird nests are located in the darkest places, usually opposite the perch. They can be made from wood, baskets, plastic boxes.

It is very important to remove droppings in a timely manner, as it releases ammonia and can cause chicken disease. A straw bedding that needs to be changed periodically will help facilitate this process. But if the chicken coop small sizes, the floor can be made from welding mesh and a special aluminum tray.

To prevent diseases, pre-treat the walls inside the chicken coop with lime.

Both in the chicken coop and on the run there must be feeders and drinkers. They should be installed in such a way that birds do not overturn the contents and can be easily refilled. Feeders can be installed in a bunker type. It is better to choose drip drinking bowls. Debris does not accumulate in them and water does not stagnate.

It is important that the chicken coop has a window. Its size is at least 1/4 of the floor area. In winter, additional lighting is turned on, artificially extending the duration of daylight hours to 15–17 hours. This allows the hens to lay eggs throughout the year.

The walking area for different breeds of chickens will vary in size. If birds are raised for meat (Langshan, Cochin, Plymouth Rock, Brahma, broiler breeds), they must be kept in conditions that restrict movement. The walking area should be minimal.

For laying hens (Lenorca, Hamburg, Andalusian, Russian White breeds), the walking area should be spacious enough so that the chickens do not become fat and stop laying eggs.

How much and what material is needed

Of course, if you have certain skills, you can build a chicken coop out of brick. But this is labor-intensive and expensive. As an alternative, reinforced concrete blocks can be used. But this pleasure is not cheap, and requires additional insulation.

The best material for building a chicken coop is wood. As a rule, the remains after building a house are used: fiberboard, chipboard, OSB boards, timber, boards. You can also build a chicken coop from reeds, if they grow in your area. During construction, do not use materials or paint with a strong odor.

To insulate a winter chicken coop, you can choose any thermal insulation material. Foam plastic and mineral wool are ideal. But it is necessary to insulate in such a way that there are no gaps between the joints of the main materials, and the birds cannot get to the insulation and peck it out.

The roof is covered with slate, roofing felt, polycarbonate. For summer chicken coops, it is not recommended to use a metal profile, since it gets very hot.

An aviary for birds, as a rule, is fenced with chain-link mesh or reinforcing mesh, but you can also use plastic garden mesh.

The canopy is made of material that can protect from rain. It can be polycarbonate, reinforced film, linoleum.

Photo gallery: chicken coops with different types of roofs

A chicken coop made of OSB boards can be covered with PVC panels A wooden chicken coop with a thatched roof looks very unusual A chicken coop with a pitched roof can be seen very often

Drawings of different designs with dimensions

The summer chicken coop is the simplest and cheapest design. Its manufacture does not require a large amount of material or any special skills or abilities. In most cases, summer chicken coops are built without a foundation, providing additional protection from rats and other predators.

If desired, you can convert an old greenhouse into a summer chicken coop. At the same time, the house itself can be small, but the walking area is spacious. Bird nests can be installed on the side of the chicken coop, in a separate compartment.

To prevent the bird from overheating in the sun, the aviary is equipped with a canopy.

The winter chicken coop differs from the summer one in its larger size and insulated walls. For such houses, a foundation must be made and an additional vestibule installed in order to better retain heat in the room. In winter chicken coops, additional lighting is provided, ventilation is installed and a fenced walking area is equipped.

The size of the structure is calculated based on the sufficient area for one bird (three chickens need 1 m2 of area). As practice shows, it is better to build a more spacious chicken coop, since in the future the population may increase and the birds will be cramped.

A mobile chicken coop can be easily moved, which means its size will be minimal. It provides the ability to feed and care for birds without the presence of a person inside. As a rule, they are designed for a small number of birds (from 3 to 10 pieces). The frame is made of bars, and the main elements (doors, roof) are made of OSB boards, fiberboard, slabs and other available materials.

The diagram should be as detailed as possible Even a small chicken coop should be tall The diagram must indicate all dimensions and materials used.

Step-by-step instructions for making a summer house for chickens in the country

Step-by-step instructions will help you easily make a chicken coop with your own hands.

Choosing a place to build

The choice of location is only important if you are not making a mobile chicken coop. Otherwise, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

• a rectangular chicken coop should be built in the direction from east to west;
• the windows of the chicken coop should face the south or east so that there is maximum illumination throughout the day; it is advisable that the bird hole be on the same side;
• It is recommended to locate the chicken coop away from noisy places, in the depths of the courtyard, because stressful situations negatively affect egg production;
• You can choose an elevated place so that water does not stagnate under the house, since birds do not tolerate dampness indoors, and chicken droppings getting into the water can lead to the spread of infection;
• the chosen location should be protected from the wind, because chickens do not tolerate drafts well.

Laying the foundation

For construction summer chicken coop usually a columnar foundation is used. To do this you need to do the following:

1. Using pegs and a cord, the boundaries of the future building are outlined.
2. The top layer of soil (up to 20 cm) is removed with a shovel.
3. Holes 50 cm wide and 70 cm deep are dug in the corners. In a rectangular chicken coop, additional posts are installed along the long side every 0.8-1 m.
4. The required level of supports above the ground is beaten off with a rope (20-25 cm).
5. A layer of gravel (about 10 cm) is poured into the bottom of the pits.
6. Together with the cement mortar, the first two bricks are laid, the next two are placed perpendicularly.
7. The masonry is driven to the required level.
8. The solution is left to harden for at least 7 days.
9. When the solution has completely hardened, the pillars are treated with bitumen or special mastic. The entire area where the earth was removed is filled with gravel. It performs the function of drainage.

How to build a frame with your own hands

After the foundation is built, you can begin building the frame:

Final exterior work

Once the frame is ready, you can begin arranging the chicken coop. First of all, the window is outlined and cut. It should be done on the east or south side. A hole for chickens is also cut. It can be made in the form of a door that opens outward or a special valve.

The door to the chicken coop should open outward so as not to crush any birds that may be near it.

If the hole is located high, you will need to make additional ladders so that the bird can easily get outside. In this case, it should be next to the perch on the same level as it.

Particular attention should be paid to the fact that various predators like to visit chicken coops - ferrets, foxes, rats. Therefore, you need to ensure that there are no cracks. It is better to dig a strip of metal or slate into the ground along the entire perimeter of the enclosure, 30 cm above ground level.

How to build a mini-house for chickens: step-by-step instructions

To make such a chicken coop you will need little material. Its base is no more than 1x1.5 m, and its height is only 1.2 m. It is designed for 3–4 laying hens. You can keep chickens in it if the ladder is placed at a smaller angle of inclination.

Since such a chicken coop does not require a foundation, all work can be carried out right on site:

1. Frames for the lower box are assembled from timber using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Immediately the mesh is attached to them using a construction stapler.
2. They are also connected to each other, after which two crossbars are attached to them.
3. The upper frames are made. A window frame is attached to one of them so that you can open the chicken coop from above and supply food and water. The mesh is attached to them with a construction stapler.
4. A compartment for the future “house” is fenced off, for which boards are filled the right size for the floor.
5. The remaining three walls of the “house” are decorated, a hole is cut and a ladder is installed.
6. The finished side frames are installed on the top box and fastened together. The ends are covered with mesh.
7. The ridge part is formed, for which you need to attach three longitudinal boards on top. A cross member is attached to the free end to enhance the rigidity of the structure.
8. A door is installed in the “house”, a nest and a perch are designed. We install bolts.

Video: building a mini chicken coop

Features of building a frame winter chicken coop with your own hands

The winter version is a more complex design. It must have a foundation or a very well-insulated floor, additional lighting, a ventilation system, and a vestibule attached. It is advisable to install a thermometer inside. If there are chickens in the chicken coop, you need to consider additional heating.

Many people believe that a winter chicken coop can be installed in a regular barn by insulating it. But this is not entirely true, since about a third of the area is used for keeping poultry, and the entire room needs to be heated. This is why it is better to build a compact winter chicken coop.

You need to think in advance about insulating the walls. But remember that due to the thickness of the insulating material, the internal area is reduced.

Foam plastic and mineral wool can be used as insulation. The main thing is to carefully cover the material with plywood or boards.

The ventilation pipe should be located at the top of the chicken coop. In severe frosts, it can be covered with a rag so that cold air does not get inside the chicken house.

Video: convenient winter chicken coop

How to make a mobile chicken house

Mobile means quickly and easily moved. For the manufacture of such chicken coops, only lightweight materials are used, for example, plywood, OSB board, thin boards. To make it easier to move such chicken coops, special handles or wheels are used. They are easy to attach if you initially provide for this in the design when drawing up the diagram.

Such designs are designed for 5–10 birds. During summer period as needed, the house can “roam” around the entire site.

Photo gallery: mobile chicken coops

Small wheels allow you to move from place to place Wheels in the center and handles on the back of the coop make it easy to move the structure You can also use small bicycle wheels A chicken coop for several layers can be easily moved

Video: mobile chicken coop on the site

By designing and building a chicken coop yourself, you can provide for all the nuances of keeping poultry, get maximum results and enjoyment from further use.

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