Oxygen equipment for climbers. List of products for climbing Elbrus Gas cans for high-altitude climbers

Without oxygen, a person cannot live even 10 minutes. This important gas for the body is involved in all internal processes, nourishes brain cells and increases their endurance. The easiest and most convenient way to saturate yourself with O2 is to use an oxygen tank. You can take a small container with an air-oxygen mixture with you to work, for a walk, or for training.

Oxygen in cylinders is used in medicine, cosmetology and sports. Daily saturation of the body with beneficial gas stimulates vital resources and helps restore strength after physical or mental stress. Breathing oxygen acts quickly and effectively:

• increased performance and stress resistance;
• oxygen starvation and accompanying symptoms (nausea, dizziness, lethargy) go away;
• the negative impact of exhaust gases is neutralized;
• metabolism is stimulated;
• feeling better during the heat;
• breathing is restored after active sports;
• Fatigue and insomnia go away.

Types of oxygen tanks

You can buy an oxygen canister for therapeutic and preventive procedures. In the catalog of the Oxy2 online store you can easily find the desired option in terms of volume and equipment. We offer the following types of containers:

• With sprayer. Used for breathing or preparing oxygen cocktails.
• With dispenser . This oxygen canister allows you to accurately calculate the amount of gas inhaled.
• Oxygen cylinder with mask.The mask prevents oxygen from mixing with other gases, so a pure mixture enters the body during breathing.
• Without a mask. Replaceable option: remove the mask from the used canister and continue using it.

How to use an oxygen tank?

The application algorithm is simple:

1. Remove the protective film and cap.

2. Remove the valve and attach the mask. Reinstall the valve.

3. To supply oxygen, press the valve with one or two fingers.

4. After exhaling, bring the mask to your mouth and take a deep breath.

To prepare an oxygen cocktail you will need a spray can and a mixer.

How to choose an oxygen cylinder?

When choosing oxygen in cans, pay attention to 3 main parameters:

• Volume. Compact containers fit easily into your bag and can “travel” with you all day. Volumetric cylinders are better suited for home use.
• Compound. The percentage of oxygen in different cans differs. The higher the indicator, the more pure gas enters the body.
• Type. With a mask it is more convenient to breathe and dose oxygen. Choose spray bottles for making cocktails.

Advantages of purchasing at Oxy2:

• Products from trusted manufacturers (Tervis, Kotex, Main Element, etc.) with availability in stock.
• Nice prices, discounts and regular promotions. Possible purchase in installments for 6 months.
• Delivery throughout Russia and pickup of goods from the point of delivery in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Any mountain climb requires the use of special mountaineering equipment. The main function of equipment for a climber is safety. Since mountaineering is associated with great risk, the main task alpine equipment – ​​reduce this risk to the minimum possible.

The composition of mountaineering equipment is formed based on climbing conditions, time of year, terrain features, etc. Depending on these conditions, mountaineering equipment is selected for mountaineering.

Composition of climbing equipment

So, what climbing gear should you buy for your climb?

The equipment for a climber includes:

• Safety system. One of the central pieces of equipment for climbing. Its main function is to keep the athlete from falling in the event of a breakdown and distribute the load in order to minimize injuries. There are several types of safety systems: lower (arbor), upper (chest harness) and full safety system.
• Helmets. They serve as an additional means of protecting the climber’s head during falls and rockfalls. The vast majority of modern helmets are made of lightweight plastics with an inner layer of foam material.
• Ropes. It is impossible to imagine equipment for mountain hiking and mountaineering without ropes. The rope serves as a means of insurance during ascents and descents, movement on closed glaciers, moving loads and rescuing climbers.
• Belay devices. Necessary for belaying a partner when climbing the route and for descending the rope. Safety and descent climbing equipment includes the following types: eights, glasses, Gri-Gri; in speleology Stop and its analogues are also used.
• Ice ax. Equipment for mountain tourism and mountaineering in harsh winter conditions and in the highlands - in glacier zones. Used for belaying on snowy slopes, cutting steps in ice, and also as a safety anchor.
• Climbing hammer. Necessary for driving and knocking out hooks, bolts and working with embedded elements.
• Ice screws. Used for insurance on ice sections of the route. They are pointed screw-on metal tubes from 10 to 20 cm long with an eye for attaching a safety carabiner.
• Climbing cats. Another important element of alpine equipment. Crampons are special metal platforms with teeth that are attached to the sole of a climbing boot. Serves to improve the grip of the boot on the ice surface.
• Carbines. It is the most numerous element of equipment for mountaineering. The average number of carabiners required for one climb is at least 20-30.

In addition to the listed items, climbing equipment may include clamps, quickdraws, loops, lanyards, ladders, rock hooks, blocks, rollers, transport bags and other climbing equipment.

Where to buy climbing equipment?

Since even a simple climb requires a significant amount of climbing equipment, in addition to strength and reliability, it must have minimal weight.

You can always buy climbing equipment from the world's best manufacturers, including climbing equipment from Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, etc., in the Sport-Marathon online store. The product you choose will be delivered anywhere in Russia. Or come to our climbing equipment store on Saikina, 4.

Designed for additional oxygen supply to a person under conditions of reduced oxygen tension (partial pressure) in the ambient air, in order to prevent hypoxia.

Operation manual And

The POISK oxygen equipment set can be used in high altitude conditions during climbing and search and rescue operations at an altitude of up to 9,000 meters above sea level, when performing high-altitude flights (altitude more than 4,000 meters) on airplanes, hot air balloons, trikes and others aircraft, during parachute jumps from heights of up to 10,000 meters (special version). And also when performing aerial photography at high altitudes of 3000-4000 meters above sea level.

The kit includes (Fig. 1) a lightweight oxygen cylinder (1) with a capacity of 3 or 4 liters, equipped with a shut-off valve; reducer (2) with flow regulator (5) and oxygen mask (3) with flow indicator (4) and bayonet connector.

Additionally, the reducer can be equipped with a pressure gauge (6) to monitor the oxygen pressure in the cylinder and a cross-shaped adapter (adapter) for connecting several (up to 4) masks.

The POISK oxygen equipment set is used on helicopters of UTair Aviation OJSC, which performs work under UN contracts, in Afghanistan, as well as in countries of the African continent, such as Sudan, Chad, Liberia, Congo, Sierra Leone, etc. You may have seen the information on our website for several years now.

During this time, our device operated flawlessly, and compliance with the rules of its use helped numerous of our clients conquer the highest mountain peaks on Earth. Ask those who climbed with our oxygen supply system about this (information on the website). Our oxygen equipment set has become very popular.

We heard only one comment from climbers, only one wish - to improve the oxygen mask.

We followed the wishes of the expedition leaders and our respected clients and opened a program for the development of oxygen masks and other means of supplying oxygen to the respiratory organs.

Especially for implementation new program we held numerous consultations with scientific and production teams in St. Petersburg and Moscow and invited Vladimir Nikolaevich ISHUTIN, candidate of science, a well-known specialist in aviation hygiene with many years of experience at the Department of Aviation and Space Medicine of the Military Medical Academy, to cooperate with Poisk medical sciences associate professor

At the first stage of the program, new oxygen masks were developed, which are currently being produced. The prototype of the masks being produced was tested in 2004 on Everest (Russell Bryce expedition).

In the future, we intend to develop and produce promising oxygen supply products.

DEAR GENTLEMEN! WE MAKE EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SAFETY. IT MUST BE EFFECTIVE AND RELIABLE. IT IS HARD TO MAKE IT LIKE THIS WITHOUT YOUR PARTICIPATION. WE ASK FOR YOUR PARTICIPATION: ADVICE, WISHES, CRITICAL COMMENTS. WE ARE OPEN FOR COOPERATION AND READY TO HELP IN THE IMPLEMENTATION OF YOUR IDEAS ([email protected] ).

Now a few main provisions of our CONCEPT:

— Oxygen masks are intended for additional oxygen supply to a person who is in conditions of low tension (partial pressure) of oxygen in the ambient air, in order to prevent hypoxia, as well as to protect the face and respiratory organs from climatic influences.

— When climbing, it is advisable to use 2 masks: one - the main one, for climbing, the other - for rest and night sleep. Masks have different designs, and fit and press on the face differently, which gives the skin and tissues the opportunity to periodically rest.

— Currently, masks are produced in three modifications (descriptions and photographs are given below), differing in the shape of the front part and head, material and size. Almost anyone can choose a mask that matches their face shape. Depending on the material and design of the front part, the masks differ in price, but provide the same oxygen supply.

— By design, the masks are closed type and have inhalation and exhalation valves that create insignificant breathing resistance for the operation of the economizer.

— To ensure significant savings in oxygen with its continuous supply, all masks use an economizer, which brings oxygen consumption by the human body to 90%. A description of the economizer design is given below.

— The components of the main masks of the entire consumer line are unified, which makes it possible to carry out minor repairs and replacements independently directly in the mountains using a group repair kit. You can purchase each component and part of the masks from us or our distributors, as well as in our store in Kathmandu Nepal.

— A new design solution for the packing bag ensures its safety when the mask is taken out and put on, and ensures the cleanliness of the oxygen path of the reducer and connector during storage.

— The night mask is made up of standard, easily replaceable elements used in medicine; helps restore the function of the upper respiratory tract after cold damage during active breathing of cold air during the ascent; prevents excess heat and moisture loss when breathing dry, cooled air through the use of a heat and moisture exchanger. — The masks are highly hygienic and easy to clean and wash.

— Our masks can be easily converted for exposure to environments containing harmful chemical substances and dust, through the use of special filters.

Rice. 2

The economizer (Fig. 2) is a thin-walled elastic bag (1) made of latex in a fabric cover (2), an oxygen supply system (3) from a flow indicator into the bag, a tube (4) for connecting to the cavity of the oxygen mask. The economizer, with its simplicity, allows for significant savings in oxygen, bringing its consumption by the human body to 90% with continuous supply.

Maximum oxygen savings in conditions of oxygen deficiency are achieved by precise regulation of the flow rate using a special valve installed on the supply regulator.

The oxygen flow must be adjusted so that the economizer bag collapses completely during inhalation, fully inflates during exhalation, and remains filled during the respiratory pause. If the bag does not collapse during inspiration, the oxygen flow is too great and its consumption will be excessive.

The use of inhalation and exhalation valves, which create insignificant additional breathing resistance, is necessary to ensure the operation of the economizer.

The fabric packing bag for storing the mask consists of two compartments, the necks of which are tightened with cords with clamps. The larger compartment stores the front part of the mask with an economizer and flow indicator, the smaller compartment contains the oxygen reducer and oxygen tube with a bayonet lock. The oxygen hose is threaded through the bottom of the bag, which is removed from the hose only for cleaning, washing or replacement. There is no danger of losing the bag. The bag has a sewn pocket with a fabric insert on which the owner's name is marked with a waterproof felt-tip pen.

Rice. 3

“POISK-HIMALAYA LUX” (Fig. 3) - has high performance qualities; The front part (1) is made of natural soft rubber, tightly fits to the face along the line: bridge of the nose - cheekbones - chin. Tight fixation of the mask in the nasal area is ensured by a nose clip (2) in the form of a plastic spring, located on the mask body above the nose.

The mask is available in three sizes.

The inhalation valve (3) is located in front in the mouth and nose area, and the exhalation valve (4) is located on the left. To the right of the inhalation valve, an economizer (5) is attached to the front part of the mask. The exhalation valve and economizer can be swapped for your convenience. The economizer (5) is connected to the gearbox via a flow indicator (8) with a bayonet lock (9).

The head (6) for a reliable and uniform pull of the mask to the face is made of a wide rubber-fabric tape running in two loops through the head and neck. For good fixation of the tape on the scalp, a rubber corrugated lining (7) is provided, which is moved along the tape.

Rice. 4

“SEARCH-HIMALAYA” (Fig. 4) - has high performance qualities, is made of silicone rubber, differs from the “SEARCH-HIMALAYA LUX” mask only in the material of the front part. The mask is available in three sizes.

Rice. 5

“SEARCH-BASIC” (Fig. 5) - the front part (1) is made of silicone rubber, has good performance qualities, tightly fits to the face along a line running from the bridge of the nose between the cheekbones and wings of the nose to the chin. A rubber bridge runs along the upper lip, ensuring that the seal maintains its shape. The mask has a universal size, suitable for most people with different types and sizes of faces.

The inhalation valve (2) is located in front directly at the level of the mouth, below is the exhalation valve (3). To the right (or left, depending on the modification) of the inhalation and exhalation valves, an economizer (4) is attached to the face mask, which is connected to the gearbox through a flow indicator (6) with a bayonet lock (7).

The head (5) for a reliable and uniform pull of the mask to the face is made of a rubber-fabric tape running in two loops through the head and neck.

Rice. 6

“SEARCH-NIGHT” (Fig. 6) - is composed mainly of standard, easily replaceable elements used in medicine.

The kit includes: an elastic polyethylene front part (1) with a nose clip (2) for adjustment in the nose area and a strap (3) to secure it to the head; economizer (4); heat and moisture exchanger (5); polyethylene tube for supplying oxygen (6); modified connecting tee (7), on which the listed elements are assembled. Additionally, the mask can be equipped with a flow indicator and a bayonet lock.

Below are lists of products that participants in trips to Elbrus and Kazbek from 2 to 5 stars should have. There are 3 lists - for 10, 11-12 and 13-14 days (select the one you need in the drop-down list), as well as their options with and without meat.

We use freeze-dried products that are light in weight, but as a result of cooking they turn into complete meals:

You can buy this package of products from us or assemble it and prepare it yourself. Although this is labor-intensive, it is not difficult and quite possible. However, it should be noted that the price of a package assembled yourself will be approximately the same as when purchasing a ready-made package from us.

High quality.

The list of products is compiled in such a way that food on a hike is sufficiently high in calories, high in protein, varied and tasty. The latter is especially important, since in the mountains it is usually not important to eat due to lack of oxygen.

For vegetarians.

We respect and support those who do not eat meat on principle. Meat is not included in freeze-dried mixtures and is packaged separately. Thus, we have the opportunity to cook on the go for vegetarians too. If you do not eat meat, please notify us and we will prepare a vegetarian package for you. The meat in it will be replaced with nuts.

How to prepare such food?

Cooking with this bag is very easy. It is enough to boil water, add a certain number of sublimate portions into it and cook for some time. This takes from 5 to 30 minutes depending on the altitude you are at (the higher, the longer).

Who cooks on a hike?

The food is prepared by those on duty from among the participants, as is customary in a normal mountain hike. They are on duty in pairs. During one trip, each participant usually has 1-2 shifts. If the guards on duty don’t understand something, the guides help them with this.

Grocery list

• Package with meat for 11-12 days, gram Package with meat for 10 days, gram Package without meat for 11-12 days, gram Package without meat for 10 days, gram Package with meat for 13-14 days, gram Package without meat for 13-14 days, gram

Change by day.

Below is the change by day. It is approximate and may be slightly changed, but basically this is the food that will be provided on the route. When compiling the change, we took into account the labor costs of the participants on certain days and correlated them with caloric intake. On heavy days, the calorie intake is higher than on days when physical activity is less.

The material was found and prepared for publication by Grigory Luchansky

Source: Garf B., Kropf F. Mountaineering abroad.FiS, Moscow, 1957

Gear, equipment and food for climbers

Much attention is paid abroad to the issue of special equipment for climbers.

Hundreds of different companies, competing with each other, sell various models of individual and group equipment, clothing, and shoes. Suppliers most often are handicraft cooperatives and small factories, or rather workshops. In this regard, the cost of climbing equipment is significant. However, the quality of gear and equipment is high. The most appropriate model of a particular piece of equipment is carefully researched and selected, and developed in detail. technological process production, which is then strictly observed, strict control of finished products is carried out. The production of climbing equipment reflects the general development of technology. Light alloys, high-alloy steels (for example, chrome-molybdenum), plastics, artificial fibers such as nylon, etc. are widely used.

Acquaintance with the latest achievements of the West in the production of mountaineering equipment should be of interest not only to numerous Soviet mountaineers, but also to those organizations that must supply Soviet mountaineers with a variety of high-quality equipment and which, unfortunately, are not yet sufficiently coping with these responsibilities. The issue of equipment is of particular importance in connection with the intensive development of high-altitude mountaineering. In any Himalayan expedition, equipment matters play a huge role and are given utmost importance. As an example, we point out that during the preparation of the 1953 British expedition to Everest, not only numerous companies, but also a number of research institutes, including such large organizations as the Arctic Institute, the Institute of Nutrition, and the Central Military Research Base, took part in the development of equipment. -Air Force at Farnborough, etc.

Prototypes of equipment are subjected to long-term testing in laboratory conditions. Metal products are tested for static and dynamic strength, deformation, fatigue, and corrosion resistance. Tents and clothing items are tested for strength, moisture resistance, and exposure to high and low temperatures. In this case, the entire arsenal of modern experimental equipment is used (pressure chambers, wind tunnels, thermostats, chambers with an artificial climate, etc.).

However, this is still not enough. The released samples must undergo long-term tests in natural conditions. For example, before the last expedition to Everest, the British in December 1952 conducted comparative tests of numerous samples of clothing, shoes, tents, sleeping bags, etc. on the Jungfrau-Joch pass in Switzerland. The external conditions during the tests (with the exception of altitude) were approximately the same as those that English climbers had to encounter in May 1953 on the south col of Everest. The temperature hovered around -25, -28° C, and snowstorms often raged. Every day the climbers changed their assault boots, down suits, sleeping bags, wore a different type of boot on each foot, and compared their notes every evening.

Finally, the expedition led by E. Shipton to Cho Oyu (see Chapter II) had its main goal of testing equipment in natural high-altitude conditions and in this regard was like a rehearsal before the assault on Everest.

The same serious approach to equipment issues is observed in most other Himalayan expeditions, but the British expedition of 1953 can serve as a model in this regard.

In this small book, we are unable to cover in detail all the issues of mountaineering equipment and equipment used abroad. In addition, no description, of course, gives even a tenth of what direct practical acquaintance with the best examples of foreign mountaineering equipment can provide.

We present short description basic equipment used abroad.

EQUIPMENT

Hooks. Currently, when climbing exceptionally difficult wall routes in the Alps, there are almost hundreds of pitons used. It is appropriate here to remind our organizations that manufacture metal climbing equipment that rock pitons should not be standard ones. The endless variety of cracks that can be encountered on a climber's path requires an equally varied assortment of pitons. If the climber is armed only with standard pitons, for example our type “L”, then he is unlikely to be able to use them on a more or less difficult route. It is no coincidence that qualified climbers prefer to make their own in a makeshift way various rock pitons.

Rice. 40. Metal equipment.

Abroad, in addition to the usual vertical and horizontal hooks of various lengths, widths, thicknesses, extra-wide “petal” hooks are used (see Fig. 40, a and b), as well as the so-called universal hooks (see Fig. 40, d), used for both vertical and horizontal cracks.

The vertical hooks have a stop that increases the reliability of the driven hook (see Fig. 40, c). All rock hooks for common cracks are made from mild steel. To use wide cracks, duralumin hooks, similar to ice ones, are often used.

In Fig. 40, d shows the use of a steel horizontal hook “1” in a wide crack as a spacer for the main duralumin hook “2”.

On complex routes, wooden wedges are often used for wider cracks (Fig. 41, a). Such wedges made of hardwood (oak, ash) can be used independently for belay as artificial support points (Fig. 41, b) or in combination with an alloy hook (Fig. 41, c).

Rice. 41. Wooden wedges.

Finally, in cases where it is necessary to overcome an absolutely smooth rocky area, devoid of any cracks for driving in a hook, so-called expanding hooks are used (Fig. 42). In this case, a hole is hollowed out in the rock using a bolt, into which a split sleeve “c” is driven. The cylindrical shank of the hook “a”, which fits tightly into the sleeve “c”, has a slot into which the wedge “b” is inserted. When driving the hook, the wedge enters the slot in the shank and pushes it apart. The shank, in turn, pushes the sleeve “c” apart. Sufficient friction is created to provide reliable insurance. In Fig. 42, G And d The use of expanding hooks for belay and as an artificial support point is shown.

Rice. 42. Expanding hooks.

Carbines. The design of carbines, since they first began to be used, has changed relatively little. In an effort to reduce weight, alloy steel or high-strength grades of duralumin began to be used for carbines. The most convenient form of carbine is considered to be the one shown in Fig. 40 e(in our country this type of carbine is known as the Rakovsky carbine). Such a carabiner can be successfully used not only for belaying, but also as an artificial fulcrum for the hand.

Rock hammers. In addition to ordinary rock hammers, weighted hammers are also used on difficult routes (Fig. 40, g), the use of which facilitates the labor-intensive process of driving in pitons and especially gouging out holes for expanding pitons.

Ice axes. In high-altitude ascents, as well as in ordinary snow-ice ascents on an alpine scale, ice axes of conventional design are used. Lightening is achieved by reducing cross-sections through the use of high-strength steel for the head and selected, high-quality wood for the handle. On difficult wall routes, a regular ice ax is replaced with a folding ice ax or ice bike.

Cats. The design of the cats has also changed little. Ordinary ten-toothed cats are used, and to overcome especially steep slopes- twelve teeth. Weight reduction is achieved by using alloy steel, and in some cases, duralumin. Duralumin crampons were used in high-altitude expeditions, for example to Cho Oyu in 1954. For the 1953 expedition, the British ordered especially lightweight crampons from Switzerland. Probably, in this case, the manufacturer overdid it and excessively reduced the strength, since the leader of the expedition, D. Hunt, mentions that during transport work on the Khumbu glacier, 12 pairs of crampons were broken.

Stirrups. In Fig. 43 shows stirrups that are currently widely used when passing steep and overhanging rocky areas. This stirrup is a short rope ladder made of nylon cord with a diameter of 5 mm with duralumin crossbars.

Ropes. All rope currently used is made only from nylon. It should be noted that foreign climbers use rope of a smaller diameter than is customary here. The diameter of the main rope used for belay does not exceed 8.5 mm (we use a rope of at least 12 mm). The cord has a diameter of 5 mm. This lightening of the rope is not without reason. When falling on rocky areas with a steepness of less than 60-70°, as well as on steep snow and ice slopes, there is never a dynamic force that can break even an 8-mm rope.

On steep walls, where a free fall is possible, a double belay system is used (see Fig. I). It is believed that it is more likely that a poorly driven hook will fly out (and it is often not possible to hammer it securely) than the rope will break. That's why double insurance applies. This system has fully justified itself in practice.

Rice. 43. Using the stirrup as an artificial support

Tents. The design, size and material of tents depend on the nature of the planned route. For wall climbing, the Zdarsky tent (we call it a bag tent) is used. This is quite natural, since on such routes it is usually impossible to set up a regular tent. Zdarsky's tent must be windproof and have minimal weight. Typically the material is nylon, which is characterized by high strength and low weight. Impregnation with various compounds (for example, mistolen) makes the material waterproof. The weight of Zdarsky's tent for two people does not exceed 400-600 g. The strength of a tent for high-altitude ascents should be much higher, since it has to withstand hurricane-force winds. The windproofness of the fabric and a tent design that would ensure maximum heat retention are very important. In Fig. 44 shows several types of tents used in high-altitude expeditions.

The previous experience of numerous expeditions to Everest and other eight-thousanders was fully taken into account by British climbers when choosing the type of tents for the 1953 expedition. The most suitable for high-altitude camps turned out to be an ordinary Himalayan tent of the “Mead” type, similar in shape to our “Pamirka”, but slightly larger in size . It is placed on a special frame made of duralumin pipes. The entrance to the tent is made in the form of a cylindrical sleeve sewn into the end wall of the tent. This allows, by tying the sleeve, to tightly close the tent and prevent fine snow dust from penetrating into it. The entrance is made from two sides, so that by placing the tents with their ends close to each other, you can move from one to the other. To make it easier to enter the tent, the British edged the fabric sleeve with a ring of piano wire. In all upper camps (over 6000 m), additional internal walls are installed in the tents. These walls weigh little, but their presence increases the temperature in the tents by 4°. The total weight of a two-person tent of the “Mid” type is 6.8 kg. Many expeditions used lighter tents. For example, in the 1953 expedition to Nanga Parbat, two-person assault tents weighing only 900 g were used. The British in 1953 also took with them several lightweight tents weighing 3-3.5 kg for the upper camps. However, the desire for comfort led to the fact that lighter, but tighter and colder tents did not find use.

Rice. 44. Different types of tents.

The second type of tent used in high-altitude expeditions is a multi-person pyramid-shaped tent, which serves as a kind of wardroom in base camps. In such tents they usually eat, hold meetings, and accommodate sick people if necessary. In the 1953 expedition to Everest there were two types of such tents: five-person (one of which was on the south col) and twelve-person. The latter were built like army Arctic tents and weighed 37 kg.

Most attention was paid to the choice of material for the tents. Research organizations of the military department took a large part in this. After numerous tests, a fabric with a cotton warp and a nylon weft was selected. Weighing only 160 g/m2, it had high strength. Blowing samples in a wind tunnel showed the absolute windproofness of the fabric at air flow speeds of up to 160 km/h. Impregnation of the fabric with Mistolen made it waterproof.

More or less similar types of tents were used in most Himalayan expeditions. It should be noted that there is a general trend towards providing maximum comfort in base camps. For example, during the expedition to K-2, the Italians slept in the base camp on folding beds, and the floors in the eight-person tents were replaced with carpet. The tents were lit with electricity from a special engine.

Sleeping bag. A sleeping bag is of considerable importance when climbing. In the Alps, sleeping bags are usually not used in summer conditions and are used only in winter. Sleeping bags are made only down with a nylon top, and for normal alpine conditions the weight of the sleeping bag is extremely small (600-1000 g).

For high altitude climbs much warmer bags are needed. For the British expedition of 1953, the bags were made in Canada and New Zealand. Each bag consisted of two separate parts - an inner and an outer, made of nylon fabric and eiderdown. The total weight of the sleeping bag was approximately 4 kg. A sleeping bag of this design retained heat well at temperatures of -25 -30°. Bags of approximately the same design were used in other high-altitude expeditions. The German down bags with silk tops and zippers used at Nanga Parbat weighed about 3 kg. On K-2, sleeping bags weighed 3.4 kg. On Cho Oyu - 3.2 kg.

Air mattress. An important part of bivouac equipment is an inflatable mattress, which, unfortunately, is not used at all in our practice. It is indispensable for bivouacs set up on snow or ice, as it prevents the penetration of cold from below. An air mattress is absolutely necessary when climbing at high altitudes. An air mattress is formed by a series of tubes made of rubberized material, laid close to each other. Especially convenient are bunk mattresses, in which the tubes of the upper layer fit into the recesses between the tubes of the lower layer. Each tube is inflated separately using light bellows.

Backpack. Exists a large number of various models of backpacks. Most of them belong to the so-called easel backpacks. A lightweight machine (frame) made of thin-walled steel or duralumin tubes more evenly distributes the load on the climber’s body and makes it much easier to carry the load. However, on difficult wall climbs, where you often have to pull the backpack on a rope, an easel-type backpack is of little use. In this case, regular backpacks are used small size, completely smooth, without external pockets or flaps.

Glasses. Canned glasses are usually made from unbreakable and non-fading organic glass with a protective color. The duralumin frame has an oval shape.

Lightweight pocket altimeters are widely used, especially useful in high-altitude expeditions.

In some cases, special equipment that is not used during normal ascents is of great importance. Thus, when climbing K-2, the cable car played an important role in lifting loads. In 1953, at the Khumbu Icefall, the British used special lightweight duralumin ladders, made up of separate, interconnected sections 1.8 m long, to overcome huge cracks. The maximum length of the span to be covered was 7 m. Although the deflection of the staircase in the middle was terrifying, the staircase could withstand the weight of three people.

OXYGEN EQUIPMENT

For a long time, there was a fierce debate in foreign mountaineering circles: “Is it acceptable from a sports and ethical point of view to use oxygen when climbing to the top? Isn't there some analogy here with, say, landing on a mountain top in a helicopter?

In addition, many believed that a person was able to reach the top of Everest without the help of oxygen, and cited as confirmation the examples of Norton, Sommerwell and other climbers who reached significant heights without oxygen (up to 8500 m), or Odel, who spent several days at an altitude of more than 8000 m. However, at present, on the basis of extensive physiological studies carried out in various Himalayan expeditions, it can be considered established that no acclimatization can save the human body from gradual exhaustion and weakening when staying at altitudes of more than 7000 m. Every day the climber’s strength increases. At this height they fall more and more, and by the time of the final assault the climber is already so weakened that overcoming the last section turns out to be impossible for him.

The only correct solution is to use oxygen, not only during movement, but also during sleep. As we said earlier, oxygen was first used on Everest by Finch and Bruce in 1922. The weak effect that the use of oxygen gave at that time should be explained primarily by the imperfection of oxygen equipment. Devices (especially cylinders) must have a minimum weight per unit of performance, regardless of altitude, low temperature, etc. The device must operate reliably, be easy to use and not create an unpleasant feeling of suffocation when inhaled.

The importance that the British attached to oxygen equipment is evidenced by the fact that during the preparation of the expedition a special body was created in charge of monitoring the production and testing of oxygen equipment. The British managed to create oxygen equipment, which turned out to be significantly better than all previous models and played a decisive role in the victory over Everest.

It should be noted that in 1953, oxygen was first used while sleeping in a bivouac. This prevented the weakening of the body at high altitude, which was mentioned above. Experience has shown that climbers who used “night” oxygen slept significantly better, had a good rest during the night and felt in good shape in the morning.

Rice. 45. Open system oxygen equipment

All oxygen devices used can be divided into two main types:

In an apparatus with open circulation (Fig. 45), the climber inhales air enriched with oxygen and exhales it into the surrounding atmosphere. Oxygen is contained in a cylinder under a pressure of 230 atm. From there, through a pressure reducing valve, it is supplied at a nominal pressure of 3 atm. and enters through a flexible hose into a manifold with two outlet pipes. The use of different manifolds with two calibrated holes in each allows you to adjust the feed rate. The climber can use oxygen at 2 speeds; 2.5; 3; 4; 5 and 6 liters per minute. The economizer allows oxygen to pass through only when you inhale, which eliminates unnecessary gas leakage when you exhale. At the beginning of inhalation, a small vacuum is formed in the mask, under the influence of which the economizer distribution valve opens and oxygen fills the mask.

Rice. 46. ​​Closed system oxygen equipment

The complete set of equipment (without cylinders) weighed about 3 kg. The weight of each light alloy cylinder, with a capacity of 800 liters of oxygen, was approximately 5 kg.

In a system with closed circulation (Fig. 46), outside air does not enter the device. The climber inhales a high-oxygen mixture directly from the breathing chamber. Exhalation occurs through a cartridge with soda lime, which absorbs carbon dioxide and directs the oxygen used during breathing back into the breathing chamber. The oxygen absorbed by the climber is replaced from the cylinder through a pressure reducing valve. To facilitate the breathing process, special attention should be paid to reducing hydraulic losses in the pipeline. Tests carried out in 1953 with English devices of this type showed that the required superpressure during exhalation did not exceed 22 mm of water column, and during inhalation - 8 mm.

The advantages and disadvantages of this or that equipment system have more than once been the subject of lively discussions.

A closed-type device has significantly greater productivity (in other words, with the same weight it will provide oxygen supply for a longer time). However, it is less reliable than the device open type. In cold weather, the heat released in closed-type apparatus is positive factor. It is also a disadvantage in bright sun and weak wind.

About the physiological effect of oxygen nutrition and at the same time about comparative characteristics The following table (p. 199), taken from D. Hunt’s book “Climbing Everest,” can give some idea of ​​both oxygen equipment systems mentioned. This table shows the rate of ascent of different groups on the same section from the south col to the Swiss camp on the southeast ridge of Everest, that is, from approximately 7900 to 8350 m.

The table clearly shows that the use of oxygen leads to a sharp increase in the speed of movement and that the closed type of oxygen equipment is more effective than the open one.

It should be noted, however, that the prototype of the closed-type equipment, used for the first time by the 1953 expedition to Everest, apparently also had significant shortcomings. In subsequent expeditions, open type apparatus was used, although the 1955 expedition to Kanchenjunga was led by Evans, a member of the 1st assault team on Everest, who was then traveling with a closed apparatus.

For oxygen nutrition during sleep, the most suitable device is an open type. The oxygen coming from the cylinder is divided equally into two masks in the tee, so that two sleepers use one cylinder at a supply reduced to 2 liters per minute.

Table of the influence of oxygen supply on the rate of ascent

RADIO COMMUNICATION

IN foreign literature Very little has been written about radio communications in mountaineering. Very brief information is provided only in D. Hunt’s book “Climbing Everest”. In the Alps, no communication is used during ascents. This is primarily due to the fact that there are no auxiliary or observation groups attached to the main group of climbers and, therefore, there is no one to keep in touch with. On high-altitude expeditions, radio equipment, as a rule, is included in the range of equipment that the expedition takes with them. However, it is far from being used to its fullest, and sometimes not even used at all, as was the case during the ascent of Annapurna.

Small portable ultra-short wave radios were used with success on a number of expeditions for communication between intermediate camps. As is known, such stations operate reliably at a distance of up to 10-15 km, provided there is direct visibility between the talking points. It should be noted that the higher the camp, the less willingly they take the radio into it (despite the fact that its weight with food is no more than 3-4 kg), and as a result, in the assault camp, as a rule, there is no radio communication, not to mention about assault groups who had never before taken a radio to the top.

There is also radio communication with the outside world. However, in most cases this communication is one-way, since the expedition only has a receiver that serves to receive the much-needed daily weather forecast. Motivating this circumstance, D. Hunt writes that the presence of a transmitter “could not in the slightest degree contribute to the success of the expedition and, moreover, would require the additional inclusion of a radio operator in the expedition.”

Insufficient attention to radio communications, and primarily to ensuring regular communication between the camps and the assault group, is a significant drawback in organizing foreign high-altitude expeditions.

CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR

The practice of all high-altitude expeditions shows that special attention should be paid to protecting the climber’s body from low temperatures.

Storm suits - trousers and a jacket with a hood are usually made of nylon. The 1953 British expedition used the same fabric for the storm suits as the tent, with a nylon lining. The total weight of the suit is 2.6 kg. Down suits made of eider down and nylon fabric were worn under the storm suit. This was followed by a thick sweater, two thinner sweaters, and warm woolen underwear with a fleece. This is what a climber’s clothing looked like, with minor deviations, in the high-altitude camp of any Himalayan expedition.

No less complex is the problem of protecting your hands from the cold. Typically, climbers at altitudes above 7000 m wear two or three pairs of mittens - wool, down, nylon (windproof). Silk gloves are placed directly on the fingers, allowing you to remove a short time mittens to do any work (tying a cat, taking photographs, etc.).

As for the clothing used when climbing in the Alps, it is not much different from the clothing used by Soviet climbers, with the exception that Western European climbers do not wear storm trousers. Typically, thick gabardine trousers and a nylon shirt are used. A rain jacket with a hood is put on top.

During winter ascents, you take almost the same amount of warm clothing as during high-altitude ascents, but some of it is carried in a backpack and used only at the bivouac, since it is obviously impossible to climb a steep wall route in a down suit and several sweaters.

Most of all, you should protect your feet from the cold. Repeated cases of frostbite that occurred during high-altitude expeditions and winter ascents showed the need to create special high-altitude insulated shoes.

For ordinary alpine ascents made in summer conditions, leather boots (Fig. 47) with profiled rubber soles (Vibram type) are currently used. This sole successfully replaces the heavy binding with tricones, holds well on rocks and snow, and glides only on steep ice slopes. On particularly difficult rock routes, special rock shoes with rope soles are used. What sad consequences can result from the use of ordinary mountaineering shoes for high-altitude ascents can be seen from the history of climbing Annapurna (see Chapter II).

The strength of high-altitude boots is not of great importance, since their wear period is very short, but they must be rigid enough to be able to attach crampons to them or knock out steps in firn with the toe of the boot. Weight plays a big role, since, according to the research of the English physiologist G. Puff, who took part in the 1953 expedition, 1 kg of weight on the legs causes the same fatigue as 5 kg on the shoulders.

Boots should be much warmer than usual, since the body, weakened by oxygen starvation at high altitudes, is especially prone to frostbite. It is very important that the insulating layer remains dry, otherwise the boots will freeze at night and it will be impossible to put them on in the morning without warming them up on the stove. In addition, damp insulation loses its effectiveness.

When climbing K-2, at altitudes up to 7000 m, ordinary mountaineering boots with a fur lining between two layers of leather were used. In higher camps, fur high boots made from deer skins with profiled rubber soles were worn.

The climbers of Nanga Parbat in 1953 used leather boots with felt lining all the way to the summit. However, the size of these boots was such that, in addition to woolen socks, climbers wore two pairs of felt socks.

Rice. 47. Mountaineering boots with profiled rubber soles (Vibram type)

In the 1953 expedition to Everest, two types of shoes were used. To reach the upper base camp (6470 m), lightweight boots with fur lining and a felt insole, weighing only 1.7 kg, were worn. Above, another type of boot was used, based on the principle of a vapor barrier: the insulation, which must remain dry, was enclosed between two layers of leather, impervious to moisture from melting snow outside and from sweating from the inside. As insulation, a layer of special very light insulating material “Tropala” with a thickness of more than 20 mm was laid between the two layers of skin. A pair of such shoes weighed less than 2 kg.

KITCHENS

All physiologists who have conducted research at high altitudes agree that at high altitudes the body's need for fluid increases sharply. This is explained, first of all, by the large loss of water during breathing, both due to the exceptional dryness of the air and due to increased pulmonary ventilation. At lower altitudes, especially in closed glacial troughs and snow circuses, when there is no wind, the loss of moisture from the body in the hot part of the day in the form of sweat can also be very significant, since insolation can be extremely strong. Let us point out as an example that in May 1952 on Cho Oyu, at an altitude of 5800 m, a temperature of +69°C was recorded in the sun.

Research on Cho Oyu by the English physiologist Puff led to the conclusion that the daily fluid requirement at high altitudes reaches 4-5 liters per day per person. Of course, drinking is necessary for any ascent, even if it is of the alpine type, lasting 1-2 days. During high-altitude ascents, a lack of water leads to a rapid and sharp weakening of the body, while when climbing a difficult alpine wall, it can cause unpleasant sensations, but is unlikely to have a decisive impact on the climber’s performance.

Considering that during high-altitude ascents all the required water is obtained by melting snow, it will become clear how important it is to create lightweight, trouble-free and highly efficient heating devices.

For many years in the Alps, Meta cuisines were used on most climbs at a solid start. These kitchens have certain advantages: low weight, silent combustion and safety, but in terms of their performance they lag far behind the various types of gasoline-powered primus stoves, the weight of which has recently been significantly reduced, and the reliability and safety of operation have been sharply increased.

When preparing the 1953 expedition to Everest, the British paid great attention to improving heating devices. The experience of Soviet high-altitude ascents showed satisfactory operation of primus stoves at altitudes up to 7000 m. However, the British found that above 4500 m a conventional primus burner does not work reliably, and in accordance with this, a special type of high-altitude self-cleaning burner was designed. The most labor-intensive and unpleasant operation, cleaning the capsule, which causes a lot of trouble at altitude, was eliminated. The burner was cleaned by simply turning the handle. In addition, to reduce large convective heat losses characteristic of conventional heating devices, a special casing was developed that directs heat to the bottom and side walls of the pan. Heating performance has increased dramatically. Finally, complete combustion was ensured, that is, the absence of toxic carbon monoxide in the combustion products. Tests carried out in a pressure chamber showed that such a “high-altitude” primus works flawlessly at an altitude of 12,000 m. Primus stoves of approximately the same type have been used recently in most high-altitude expeditions.

For alpine climbing, many companies produce Various types Primus stoves, extremely light and compact, working reliably in the rain or wind (the latter is very important, since it is often impossible to set up a tent on a bivouac).

The second type of heating appliances that is beginning to become increasingly widespread are gas kitchens, most often running on butane. Compressed to 150-200 atm. butane is carried in cylinders. The advantage of gas kitchens is ease of operation. Indeed, to ignite it, just open the tap and hold a match. In addition, gas kitchens can be successfully used for lighting, which has its value for evening work in a common tent at the base camp. In terms of productivity per unit weight, gas kitchens are somewhat inferior to primus stoves, since a significant “dead” weight falls on the gas cylinders. In general, they are good heating equipment, which has recently become increasingly used in high-altitude expeditions.

NUTRITION

It is necessary to briefly dwell on some features of the problem of nutrition during ascents.

The product range used in the West has much in common with the diet of Soviet climbers. And this is natural, since the basic fundamental requirements for food products are the same, namely: high calorie content, easy digestibility, good taste and minimal weight.

Various concentrates are much more widespread in the West than in our country: high-quality meat and chicken bouillon cubes, pemmican, soup concentrates, etc. “Self-heating” canned food is often used, under the bottom of which there are chemical reagents that enter under the influence of water or when displacement with each other in an exothermic reaction. Various compound patented nutritious products with high calorie content, prepared from condensed milk, egg powder, sugar, chocolate and other products, are widely used, for example, the constant companion of any climber, the famous “ovaltine”, etc.

During difficult wall ascents, which usually last no more than one or two days, the issue of nutrition does not play a primary role. It is believed that one can “starve” for a day, working from the reserve accumulated in previous days. As a rule, climbers take minimal food with them to the wall, which in its calorie content does not in any way compensate for the enormous energy expenditure during the ascent (by weight, usually no more than 500-600 g per person per day). Most often in this case, lard or smoked sausage, dried fruits, chocolate, sugar, canned sardines, and various compotes are used. If it is known that there is snow on the route and there will be no water, a primus stove is taken, and in this case cocoa or soup is cooked in the bivouac. Candies, dried fruits and condensed milk or cream (in tubes) are used right on the go.

Nutrition issues are much more important for high-altitude expeditions. Along with equipment, food is one of the main factors determining the success of an expedition. The decisive word here is given to physiologists who have conducted careful observations at high altitudes above the human body. To the above general requirements In addition to the requirements for high-altitude nutrition, there are also specific requirements associated with the behavior of a climber at high altitudes. Depending on the individual character traits, habits, health status, and most importantly on the degree of acclimatization of one or another team member, he will relate to food differently.

At high altitudes, climbers become “cranky.” You often lose your appetite or want something special, which, as a rule, is not available at the moment. Norton on Everest in 1924 really wanted strawberry jam and fried eggs, Hillary on Cho Oyu dreamed of pineapples, etc. Of course, it is impossible to fully satisfy the varied tastes of all climbers, especially since taste at altitude is subject to sudden changes, however this should be strived for in order to ensure the best possible appetite for all participants in the ascent. The experience of recent high-altitude expeditions has shown that the less the diet differs from the usual, the better it is absorbed, even at high altitude.

Climbers are much more willing to consume fresh vegetables, fruits, fresh meat, and bread than canned food, concentrates, lard, and chocolate. However, here the issue of weight comes into play: it is extremely irrational to carry up the water contained in the listed fresh products. As always happens, the solution must be a compromise. Products consumed are high-calorie, concentrated, but with a varied assortment, if possible taking into account individual taste needs. Vitamins in various combinations are required. Fruit juices are very good. At base camps, fresh food should be consumed as much as possible (the British ate potatoes and fresh lamb in the upper base camp at 6470 m in 1953).

Correct, appropriate packaging of food products is of great importance for high-altitude expeditions. In the first Himalayan expeditions, a system was adopted in which products were brought in specialized packaging according to the type of product, for example, bags of rice, boxes of canned meat, boxes of condensed milk, etc. The disadvantages of such a system, associated with repeated repackaging, obvious. Recently, packaging has been done in advance, in separate “rations” intended for a certain number of people, for a certain period of time and for a certain stage of the ascent (approaches, leaving camps, assault). So, for example, there may be “assault” rations for two person-days or rations for approaches for one person for a week (with a different menu for each day), etc. Packaging is usually done under vacuum using sealed plastic boxes or bags, which ensures good preservation of products. The shape, dimensions and weight of individual boxes are designed to be carried by one porter in a high-altitude area.

The described packaging and packing system has been successfully used in most recent high-altitude expeditions.

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