About anchors and anchorage of small vessels. Anchorage Anchorage
Now - a few words about the remaining requirements for anchors and the vessel carrying out anchorage.
The literature sets out the requirements for large vessels in sufficient detail. The requirements for “small sizes” are only general character. But, given that the safety of the people on board is primarily behind all this, in my opinion, it is worth talking about these issues in more detail.
A general requirement for any vessel is that they must be equipped with an anchor device that can provide rapid release and lifting of the anchor under any (!) sailing conditions. That is, for PVC boats, first of all, the requirement is for quick access to the anchor and anchor rope stored on board. And one more important aspect must be taken into account when storing the anchor on board. When the boat is moving, especially when planing into a wave, the anchor must be securely fastened to completely prevent it from spontaneously falling overboard. An analysis of incidents on the water related to such facts indicates the serious consequences of such indiscretion by the skipper. In my boat, the anchor is stored in a special plastic container, which is fixed on board. And the anchor is already tied to the container with a scarf.
The anchor rope should be laid in a convenient coil, or wound on a reel or reel.
After trying several different anchor rope options, I end up using only a sling for my boat. There are several reasons:
— it rolls into a convenient and compact bay
— quite strong, especially if the sling is made of stocking
— it fits perfectly into knots, both on the anchor eye and on the anchor itself, which are easy to untie if necessary
- and the most important property. When lifting the anchor, the sling does not cut your hands. If you took the anchor very strongly in a “strong” place, then the sling will not damage even the inflatable PVC cylinder of the boat if you select the anchor by “pumping out”.
Denford Anchor Plow Anchor 
Hall anchor 
Bruce's anchor 
Admiralty anchor 
Anchor atwood
Now about the anchors. The anchor must have sufficient holding force to hold the vessel in the chosen anchorage location. Therefore, a competent choice of anchor (weight and design) for a boat under different kinds bottom. The photographs show different types of anchors. But, in my opinion, they are more suitable for large rigid cases. Storing such a large anchor on small PVC vessels can “eat up” most of the already small cockpit of the vessel. After testing some of these anchors, I settled on a cat anchor, foldable and compact. Which has the necessary holding force on most bottom soils in those places where you happen to fish. If the anchor on board cannot securely hold the ship at a particular point, there are several ways to increase its holding force. For PVC boats, we can recommend the most acceptable one: this is an additional load on the anchor rope a few meters from the point of its attachment to the anchor. The easiest way is a chain with medium-sized links. It is enough to attach two to three meters of such a chain to the anchor ring and the anchor cable to significantly increase the holding force by increasing the sag of the anchor cable and, accordingly, the angle of influence on the anchor.
An important point is the anchor cable attachment point on small PVC boats. The anchor fish should be located in the DP of the vessel on the stem or bow of the cylinder as low as possible. This is necessary to minimize the leverage acting on the ship when a wave passes, in order to avoid flooding with water through the bow.
Anchorage can be carried out both in an open roadstead and in a protected harbor. The type of mooring is selected depending on its purpose and duration, the condition of the vessel and weather conditions. It is also taken into account to what extent the anchorage is protected from wind and waves, how safe the approach to it is, what depths and what kind of soil, whether there are tides and currents in a given place. And is it possible to weigh anchor and go to sea if there is a sudden change in wind direction?
The best soils for anchoring are clay, loam, silt with sand and thick silt. Sand, shells and small stones hold an anchor worse. The stove and liquid sludge do not hold up at all. The bottom in the anchorage area should ideally be clean, level or almost level. When choosing a place for long-term anchorage, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of turning the boat under the influence of wind and currents. It is necessary to have enough space to maneuver in case of unsuccessful anchoring.
In calm water without a current, the drawn out anchor cable can be short - equal to approximately one and a half depth in a given place. In case of waves, wind, current, the length of the cable should be increased, which prevents sudden jerks when the boat rises onto the wave, as well as being overwhelmed by the wave.
At night, after anchoring in the water area, the parking light must be turned on.
Now - directly about the anchoring technique.
It is best to approach the anchorage site with your bow against the wind and current, and if they act in the opposite direction, against the one that acts stronger.
If you are not sure that the bottom in a given place is clean, a buoy with a buoy is attached to the anchor trend, indicating the location of the anchor. The length of the buoy is taken slightly greater than the depth in this area. If the anchorage site is in a closed harbor with busy traffic, then after releasing the anchor, the end of the buoy rope is taken to the deck so that during shooting the anchor can be pulled out if it gets caught on something. If there is no active movement in the water area, then the buoy remains afloat. It is better to prepare all these additions to the anchor in advance. As a buoy rope, you can use any synthetic cable with a thickness of more than 6 - 7 mm (if less, then gloves should be used when removing it) or a narrow synthetic sling. In this case, the buoy must withstand the weight of the anchor plus a force of 15 - 20 kg. A buoy can be made from a brightly colored piece of foam plastic or from plastic bottle, filling it, for example, with pieces of paper or polyethylene of yellow or bright orange color, making it visible on the water.
If for some reason you had to anchor in a significant wave, then the buoy can also be secured to the anchor cable. Due to its buoyancy, it will noticeably reduce the sharpness of the anchor cable jerks when the boat passes a wave.
In some cases it is necessary to turn an anchored vessel at an angle to the wind. This may be necessary when, for example, the directions of the wind and waves do not coincide - and rolling begins. Then the spring setting is applied. What it is?
On the anchor cable, three to five meters from the point of attachment to the eye-handle on the boat, another attachment point is made either using a knot or a carabiner. A spring is tied to it - a cable that is used to pull the main anchor cable towards itself. The other end of the spring is attached in the stern area. By adjusting the force of its tension, you can change the angle of the boat relative to the wind and waves within the required limits. The same spring can be used for other purposes - as a means of lifting the anchor when the boat has a bow fairing and access to the anchor eye is difficult.
The anchor is lifted by pulling the cable onto the ship, and when the anchor cable assumes a vertical position, then the anchor is torn off the ground and raised. If it is not possible to tear the anchor off the ground, then, maneuvering the ship at low speed and entering with different sides bow or, in extreme cases, stern, repeat the attempt to tear off the anchor.
In order to create maximum force for breaking the anchor, you can lay the anchor cable on the side or transom on the side of the motor - and slightly rock the boat from side to side, holding the cable at maximum tension. If the anchor cannot be lifted from the ground by the cable, you can try to lift it by the buoy rope. There is also a simplified scheme for tying an anchor to a cable without using a buoy.
In this case, the cable is knitted directly to the trend, and the fixation to the ring is done with a thin rope or mounting wire. For these purposes, both fishing line and thin fishing cord with breaking load within 10-15 kg. Having broken this insurance, breaking the anchor by applying force to the trend will in most cases be much easier.
Vladimir Sokolov
Also, read
Anchorage can be in an open roadstead or in a protected harbor. The type of mooring is chosen depending on its purpose and duration, the condition of the vessel and weather conditions. They also take into account the extent to which the anchorage is protected from wind and waves, how safe the approach to it is, what depths and what kind of soil, whether there are tides and currents in a given place and whether it is possible to weigh anchor and go to sea if there is a sudden change in wind direction .
The best soils for anchoring are clay, loam, silt with sand and thick silt. Sand, shells and small stones hold an anchor worse. The stove and liquid sludge do not hold up at all. The bottom in the anchorage area should be clean, level or almost level. In open roadsteads you should beware of heavy seas. When choosing a place for long-term anchorage, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of turning the yacht under the influence of wind and currents, etching the anchor chain to its full length, as well as the drift of the yacht and the availability of the necessary space for maneuvering in the event of an unsuccessful anchorage.
Anchoring technique. Of the many methods and options for anchoring a yacht, we will consider several basic ones, most often used in yachting practice (Fig. 132).
At the command “Prepare to anchor!” release the lashings from the anchor, arm it (if it is Admiralty) and roll out onto the deck at least three depths of the anchor rope. At the same time, the halyard coils are dismantled.
They approach the anchorage site by the shortest route, if possible with the bow against the wind and current, and if they act in the opposite direction, against the stronger one. If you are not sure that the bottom in a given place is clean (and this is always desirable when using Danforth-type anchors), a buoy with a buoy is attached to the anchor trent. The length of the buoy is taken a little longer than the depth. When the anchorage site is in a closed harbor with busy traffic, then after releasing the anchor, the end of the buoy rope is taken to the deck so that during shooting the anchor can be pulled out if it gets caught on something. When it is decided to approach the place where the anchor is released against the wind, then, having removed the jib in advance and not reaching about 0.5-3 lengths from this place (depending on the strength of the wind, waves and inertia of the vessel), bring the yacht to the left and trim the main sheet and take the boom to the top end. When the yacht stops and moves back a little, give the command “Release the anchor!”
As soon as the anchor rope touches the bottom, they report “Anchor on the ground.” At the command “So many meters of rope overboard!” The anchor rope is gradually being poisoned. If this is done too quickly, the command is “Hold the anchor rope!” or “Etch the anchor rope little by little!” When the rope stretches tightly and then sag smoothly, it means the anchor has been “taken”; then they report “Come to the rope!” When the anchor is creeping or uncleanly released, the rope is tense with sharp jerks and quickly weakens, and air bubbles rise from the bottom on the surface of the water in the area of the released anchor. If the anchor holds well, then the anchor rope slowly tightens and slowly weakens. As soon as the anchor is “taken”, the rope is attached to the bow cleat or secured to the biting or capstan and the sails are removed. In order to control the possible drift of the yacht, noticeable lines are noticed on the shore and a lot is released from the side of the yacht from the shrouds, and a line with slack is secured on the deck. By where the line is pointing and by its tension, you can judge the drift of the yacht.
If, due to the conditions of the water area or because of a strong current, it is necessary to anchor downwind, then the mainsail is removed in advance, the jib is removed almost at the anchorage, then, under one spar, they are sharply brought to the wind and as soon as the yacht loses or slows down, the anchor is released.
Under normal conditions, the chain anchor rope is pulled out to 3 depths, in a fresh wind - 5-6, and in a storm to 10 depths or more. If the anchor rope is made entirely of synthetic cable, then under normal conditions it is drawn to 8 - 10 depths, and in a fresh wind - to 20 or more. Since such an anchor rope cannot provide reliable anchorage, a chain insert with a length of 5 to 15 m (depending on the displacement of the yacht) is often inserted into it, which is attached directly to the eye of the anchor.
At depths of more than 20 m, the length of the etched anchor rope is reduced by approximately 1.5 times compared to the usual one, but in any case, the length of the etched chain or rope should be such that during the 5 strongest jerks in a wave or squall there is a horizontal section of the chain (rope) lying near the anchor on the ground. Often on cruiser-racing yachts they approach the shore with their bows, releasing the anchor from the stern. When there is wind from the shore, about 3 hulls short of reaching it, they release the anchor from the stern and freely move the anchor rope so as not to delay the yacht’s progress, or, conversely, if the yacht approaches the anchorage with a long speed, then win. When there is downwind, the anchors are approached to the point of release under the spar. Not reaching 3-4 hulls from the shore, they are sharply brought in to slow down the move, release the anchor as they approach the shore, and begin to smoothly tighten the anchor rope so that the anchor is “taken away” and allows them to hold the ship close to the shore. The stronger the downwind, the farther from the shore the anchor is dropped.
After approaching, the yacht can be turned 180°, moving the anchor rope to the bow and the mooring lines to the stern. Yachts with deep rudders installed separately from the keel are usually placed with their bows towards the shore for fear of damaging the steering device on the wall or shoreline.
In some cases, it is necessary to turn an anchored yacht at a certain angle to the wind. This may be necessary when, for example, the wind and wave directions do not coincide and rolling begins. Then the yacht is placed on the spring. To do this, they are picked up on the anchor rope to about one hull, a reliable cable is attached to it with a locking knot, which is carried from the outside along the side to the stern. Then the anchor rope is pulled out and the spring is selected, as a result of which the yacht turns at the desired angle to the wind (Fig. 133, a).
Cruising catamarans are installed on springs in exactly the same way. Catamarans are anchored in this way: two ropes are attached to the eye of one anchor, going to the bow of each hull (Fig. 133, b, c).
Setting on two anchors. They resort to setting two anchors when they want to limit the movement of the yacht on the anchor rope in a cramped water area with variable tidal currents and winds that are not constant in direction; or the anchor also has to be released if the yacht is standing stern to the shore in a strong crosswind, in a variable current or during a storm, when one anchor is not enough to hold the vessel in place.
To limit the movement of the yacht, anchors are released using the “fertoing” method. If the wind direction is expected to change across the entire horizon, then the anchors are released so that the angle between the two anchor ropes is about 70-80°. In this case, when the wind sets at 90°, one of the anchors will be behind the stern of the yacht at a distance of one or two hulls (Fig. 134). If you plan to stand on a tidal current, then first release one anchor against the current, release the rope to double the length and release the second anchor. Then they retrieve half the rope of the first anchor and tighten the second one by the same amount. Dropped anchors in a stormy wind perpendicular to their line will most likely “crawl.”
Mooring using the "fertoing" method does not increase the holding power of the anchor during a storm, since the yacht either stands on one anchor all the time, or there is a large angle between the anchors. In addition, when the wind turns more than 180°, the anchor ropes cross, forming the so-called “roof”.
To prevent the yacht from turning around during various wind conditions, for example, when moored in tight harbors or on a river, one anchor is placed from the bow, the other from the stern.
If the yacht is standing perpendicular to the shore on the stern mooring lines, in variable currents or in strong headwinds, then release two anchors from the bow symmetrically to the DP line or to the wind (against the current).
In a storm, when the holding power of one anchor with the anchor rope pulled down to the chewing tack is not enough, a second anchor is released. On cruising yachts this is the right anchor of increased weight, on cruising-racing yachts it is a verp, the second anchor is given in advance, then first the first anchor is retrieved as far as possible, but so as not to be pulled out, then its rope is pulled, the bow of the yacht is moved to the side, and then given second anchor. Then both anchor ropes are pulled to the required length (Fig. 135, a). If the first anchor “crawled,” then the second one is released right at the side, after which only its rope is pulled out. If a storm wind is expected to set in a known direction, then the second anchor is brought in the direction of the expected set, but at a shorter distance than the first anchor. When the wind sets, by pulling the rope of the second anchor, its tension is approximately equal to that of the first [Fig. 135, b).
There are three ways to set two anchors: on the move, when both anchors are released at low speed along a line approximately perpendicular to the direction of the wind; with maneuvering on the given anchor (bleeding or pulling) and with the help of an ace. In order to set up a rope against strong winds and waves, they take it together with the rope in an ace, go out to the place, give it back and, pulling the rope, go downwind back to the yacht. In most cases, a lighter anchor is transported over a longer distance. In order to set up a deadlift anchor with an anchor chain against a strong wind, first they bring in a rope (as we have already said), and then, stretching out on the rope, they bring in the deadlift anchor. In this case, half of the anchor chain is taken into the ace. First, the chain is pulled from the yacht, then the second half is pulled from the ace. A heavy rope or anchor anchor is hung behind the transom of the ace, attaching it with its short end, the “earring,” to the middle can.
In order to select an anchor on the ace (the yacht is standing on a second anchor or on a buoy), place the ace under the anchor-chain with the stern to the anchor, place the chain in the cutout on the transom of the ace and select it from the middle bank with your hands, while simultaneously pulling the anchor a little. chain from a yacht.
Anchorage in stormy conditions. An anchorage is safe only if it is completely protected from winds and waves in all directions. Therefore, during a storm, it is not recommended to enter unfamiliar harbors or bays and bays open to the sea, from which it is impossible to exit when the wind sets. If, due to the current circumstances, you have to experience a storm at anchor, then it is necessary to take all measures to prevent the anchor from drifting and falling onto the coastal sandbank.
These measures are:
- reducing the windage of the hull and armament of the yacht, for which it is necessary to lower the legs of the booms with sails onto the deck, tightly cover or even remove inflated covers, etc.;
- release of the second anchor;
- bleeding anchor ropes to the chewing tack;
- engine operation (if any) in forward gear;
- increasing the holding force of anchors.
How carefully and seriously one should take the choice of anchorage during a storm is shown by the following example.
On August 13, 1976, the Polish yacht "Otago" (steel ketch, 29 tons, 144 m2) was anchored from a storm in the Barents Sea behind Bear Island. The sharp setting of the wind with intensification did not allow us to weigh anchors in a timely manner. The yacht was torn from its anchors and landed on the rocks. When trying to pull the Otago off the rocks with the help of a Norwegian fishing boat, the yacht sank at a depth of 9 m.
Increasing the reliability of anchorage. In a storm, anchoring with two anchors is not always safer than anchoring with one anchor. The wind and waves move the yacht strongly, the anchor ropes are jerkily tightened and weakened so that at some moments only one anchor is practically working.
There are three ways to increase the holding force of one anchor:
- setting on two anchors laid one after another using the “jib” method;
- the use of additional weight lowered on the anchor rope;
- anchoring with a buoy.
When anchoring using the “jib” method, a rope is attached to the trent of the main Admiralty anchor or to the eye of the Danforth anchor using a cable, the length of which is approximately equal to 1-1.5 times the depth in a given place. First, the rope is released, and then the main anchor and the rope is pulled to the required length. This is the most reliable of all anchoring methods, suitable for long-term anchorage in roadsteads.
When using an additional load, hang a heavy object or rope on a loop or bracket around the anchor rope and lower it down to the anchor using a line 1.5-2 deep. As a result, the sag of the anchor rope increases and its horizontal part lying on the ground lengthens. This increases the holding force of the anchor, weakens jerks and protects it from being pulled out of the ground.
Using a buoy when anchoring significantly softens the sharp jerks that are inevitable in high waves. The end of the anchor chain is attached to the buoy, and the yacht stands on the buoy using an “earring”. If necessary, you can urgently weigh anchor and move to another, safer place.
A great danger for a yacht anchored or floating in a storm is the impact of high wave crests. To smooth the water surface and destroy ridges, use a cloth bag filled with tow, filled with oil (for example, machine oil or solar oil), and attached to the anchor chain at a distance of about 1-2 body lengths from the yacht.
Technique for removing the anchor under unfavorable circumstances. On most yachts, especially cruising-racing yachts, the anchor rope is selected manually. In a stormy wind, the crew does not have enough strength to get it out. Then they do this in time with the pitching motion of the yacht: when the bow goes down from the wave, the anchor rope weakens and the slack is taken out; when the bow rises on the wave, the anchor rope is stopped and held until the next weakening of the rope.
If the anchorage is not reliable enough, and a sudden storm or squall comes from the sea and there is no time to remove the anchor, they set storm sails or even one staysail, throw the anchor rope overboard, leaving the anchor on the ground, and go out to sea. Therefore, when anchored in an open roadstead, you should never remove the sails from the deck (they should always be ready for immediate setting).
The anchor chain must necessarily have a tack with a hook, and if only part of the chain is used for anchorage, then its remains must be raised from the box onto the deck so that the tack is at the top and can be easily given away. Sometimes, when anchored in a cramped harbor, it is necessary to urgently move to another place, for example, to make room for a large ship, but it is impossible to choose an anchor, since ships that arrived later are standing above it. Then you can either lay the anchor-chain on the shore, or simply give it overboard if the anchor is given with a buoy, or, when giving the anchor-chain overboard, attach a buoy on a buoy to its end.
Depending on the nature of the anchorages - in an open roadstead or a protected harbor, various watch services are organized. At the anchorage on board the yacht there must be a full running watch, headed by the captain or watch commander, ensuring the safety of the yacht and ready at any time to lift the anchor and move to another place. At an anchorage in a harbor, protected from waves and wind, there must be a mooring watch on the yacht's orta. When moored in equipped yacht clubs, by agreement with the management of the yacht club, the crew of the yacht can be completely released ashore.
The responsibilities of the watch at the anchorage include monitoring the strength and direction of the wind, waves, ebbs and flows, currents, and other vessels, the drift of the yacht due to the “creeping” anchor. As the wind and waves increase, and as the water rises, the watch must haul more anchor chain, often down to the tack. If this is not enough, you need to give up or get a second anchor, increase the holding force of the anchors with the help of weights, start the engine and work with it in forward motion.
If at a roadstead site, despite Taken measures, the anchors are not holding, then it is necessary to disengage and move to another, more protected place or go to sea and sail under storm. The use of a boat for the delivery of anchors and communication with the shore during anchorage is allowed under the following conditions: waves do not pose a danger to the boat, landing standards are met, the boat is equipped with life-saving devices for the number of people in it, a senior person is appointed on the boat and, as a rule, it is possible visual observation of the movement of the boat by the watch commander personally throughout its entire journey.
When choosing an anchorage, one takes into account the depth, protection from wind and waves, the size of the anchorage area, the presence and characteristics of tidal phenomena, the bottom topography and the nature of the soil, the proximity of navigational hazards, the presence of landmarks, the condition and weather forecast, as well as the characteristics of the vessel and the expected duration of anchorage.
The size of the water area required for anchorage is approximately estimated by the radius R, calculated by the formula:
l is the length of the anchor rope required for safe anchorage, m;
H"- height of the anchor fairlead above the ground, m;
L- vessel length, m;
DR - distance margin, selected depending on specific conditions and circumstances, m.
Minimum depth N , ensuring safe parking is calculated using the formula:
, Where
T is the maximum draft of the vessel, m;
h in - probable wave height for a given season in the anchorage area, m,
The safety of the anchorage is largely determined by the nature of the soil, on which the holding force of the anchor depends. Silty-sandy and clayey-sandy soils, as well as gravel and shell mixed with clay and silt, have good properties in this regard. By themselves, silt and clay strongly suck in anchors, which makes it difficult and sometimes impossible to tear them off the ground. Rocky soils made of boulders, large rocks or slabs are especially unfavorable for anchoring. On such soils, anchors do not hold well, and the ship, under the influence of wind or current, acquires a significant drift speed, which can lead to a break in the anchor chain if the anchor gets stuck in a crack or gets caught on a rock ledge.
Maneuvering during anchor operations.
When approaching an anchorage, the vessel's speed should be low in order to be able to absorb inertia and prevent a jerk when reaching the rope.
When the chain is freely etched after the anchor is released, even after clamping the tape stopper, the vessel has the opportunity to advance until the rope straightens a very short distance, amounting to 0.3-0.4 depths - with a length of the etched rope equal to 3-4 depths, i.e. one tenth of the length of the etched rope. Elastic extension of the anchor chain increases this distance by approximately another 2-3% of the chain length.
When the kinetic energy of a moving vessel is extinguished at a short distance, if the anchor picks up the ground and does not crawl, a strong jerk occurs.
When the speed of the ship doubles, the jerk force increases four times, i.e., in a quadratic relationship.
If main engine works towards extinguishing inertia, then part of the kinetic energy of the vessel is compensated by the work of the propeller and the maximum jerk force at the same initial speed the vessel is reduced by an amount equal to approximately twice the propeller thrust. This very important circumstance must be used to avoid breaking the anchor chain or breaking the anchor if the ship’s speed exceeds the permissible value.
Permissible speeds are calculated taking into account the preservation of a double safety margin, i.e., taking into account the fact that the jerk force reaches half the breaking strength of the anchor chain.
In the calculations, the average values of the power of the main engines, characteristic of ships of a given displacement when loaded, were taken, as well as the average calibers of the anchor chains. Therefore, taking into account that the weight of the anchor, and therefore the gauge of the chain, is selected for the vessel not only by displacement, but also taking into account the sail area, as well as possible deviations of power from the accepted average values.
For ships in ballast with displacements approximately half those listed in the table, permissible speeds increase by approximately 10-50%.
If anchoring is carried out on a single-screw vessel with a starboard rotation and a significant wind force, and the limited water area does not allow approaching the chosen anchorage site with the bow against the wind, maneuvering must be performed at a more or less significant speed in order to maintain controllability of the vessel and prevent large drift . In this case, it is recommended, if circumstances permit, to calculate the maneuver in such a way that when approaching the place where the anchor is released, the ship turns to the right.
It is known that in the first period after putting the rudder on board with the engine running forward, the ship loses speed no worse than after giving full reverse on a straight course. Therefore, even before reversing the engine, it is recommended to shift the rudder to the right side, and when the ship acquires sufficient angular speed, give full speed back, and then release the starboard anchor in the selected place.
Due to the significant drift angle on the circulation towards the outer side, the anchor chain will be pulled towards the stern at a significant angle to the DP. This will dramatically reduce the jerk force when the chain is delayed. When performing a similar maneuver with a turn to the left and the release of the left anchor, you need to take into account that after reversing the engine, the turn to the left quickly stops due to the lateral force of the propeller working in reverse. Therefore, a breakthrough may occur.
In any case, you need to hold the anchor chain smoothly so that the windlass sprocket can turn if the chain tension suddenly increases sharply. The tape stopper can be fully clamped only after the vessel has reached the rope and the inertia has been extinguished.
On dense silty and clayey soils, even small jerks that can tear the anchor out of the ground are extremely undesirable, since after this the anchor, stuck to the dense soil, does not pick up well, and the vessel may drift.
When anchoring in a current, it must be taken into account that the vessel, stationary relative to the water, continues to move relative to the ground at a current speed that can significantly exceed the permissible speed when anchoring. In this case, it is necessary to approach the place where the anchor is released as strictly as possible against the current, monitoring the actual speed by buoys, other vessels anchored, or coastal landmarks. If there are no reference points, you should first cut the chain to a length only slightly greater than the height of the fairlead above the ground, which will allow you to determine the direction of movement of the vessel relative to the ground by the tension of the rope and, if necessary, extinguish the inertia by operating the engine.
When anchoring at depths exceeding 25-30 m, as well as when releasing onto rocky ground, you must first release the anchor with a windlass to a height of about 5 m above the ground and only then release from the stopper band.
If an anchor placed on the ground is used to improve maneuverability and reduce drift when maneuvering at low speed in cramped conditions, then the length of the etched chain should be 1.5 times the height of the anchor fairlead above the ground. Under this condition, the chain makes an angle of approximately 45° with the ground, and since the maximum angle of deviation of the anchor legs from the spindle is approximately the same value, when pulling the anchor, its legs move parallel to the surface of the ground without burrowing into it.
When shooting from an anchor in a significant wind or current, it should be taken into account that the vessel begins to drift even before the anchor leaves the ground. In this case, the anchor may get caught in the anchor chain of another vessel, and a pileup or dangerous drift towards shallow depths may occur. Therefore, it is necessary to use the main engine and rudder to hold the vessel in place until the anchor lifts off the ground.
When shooting from an anchor in a tight roadstead, it should be taken into account that the extension of the vessel when turning from a standstill at medium speed with the rudder on board is approximately two times less than the extension during circulation at a steady forward speed. If, due to lack of free space, there is no confidence in the success of the turn, then you should first turn the vessel with an anchor on the ground using the engine and rudder in the desired direction.
When maneuvering after unanchoring in cramped conditions on a single-screw vessel with a right-handed propeller, turns to the right, other things being equal, are usually safer than to the left, since, if necessary, you can reduce or extinguish the inertia by reversing without stopping the turn to the right.
Choosing an anchorage along with a suitable mooring device is critical to a good night's sleep. But not all bays allow you to anchor without much thought and preparation. We will show you how to correctly “read” sea charts, and what needs to be done in advance to be sure of the safety and comfort of anchorage.
Forward - to new bays
You won't find a better anchorage! A lonely island with a steep coast that protects from the gusty south-east wind. Many ships seek shelter from the wind on the leeward side of the island and anchor in the sandy bottom. Only a few leave the anchorage again in the late afternoon to return to the port and spend the night there. It happens as it should happen: at night a thunderstorm front approaches the anchorage. The wind changes to the west, it begins to rain, and the boats, under strong gusts of wind and increasing roughness of the sea, are increasingly breaking from their anchor chains. There is a risk of being washed up on the leeward shore; on some yachts the anchor breaks out of the ground and begins to drift away; others let the anchor chain go a little by turning on the engine. In 20 minutes the front passes. Silence reigns again on the small island in the Baltic Sea.
Was the anchorage location ultimately chosen correctly? There are not many sheltered bays that provide sufficient protection for any change in wind direction. Most often, bays are not protected on one side. You should always remember that the wind direction can change suddenly, and when choosing an anchorage this fact must be constantly taken into account. Somewhere nearby there could well be a wooded shore that would provide protection in the westerly wind. Safe harbor in close proximity. Thorough preliminary work with the map, of course, will not allow you to avoid all problems associated with changing weather conditions, but it will allow you to better respond to unexpected, most often local, weather changes.
Choosing the right anchorage begins with studying paper navigation charts. Digital navigation charts on the small display of a chart plotter are less useful because the surrounding conditions of the desired anchorage can only be viewed by scrolling. A paper navigation map, on the contrary, gives detailed review both the actual place of interest and the surrounding area. Along with information about fairway markings and grading lines, it provides insight into the topographical details of the shoreline that should be taken into account when choosing an anchorage.
Card 1 (INT 1) of the German Federal Office Marine Shipping and Hydrography (BSH) provides information on symbols, abbreviations and terms on official nautical charts. For example, she explains the pictograms that indicate rocky coastlines, wooded areas, steep banks, and even houses on navigation maps.
After a little training, looking at the navigation map, an idea of the chosen anchorage is already formed in your head. On the following pages we will present to you a number of anchorages on the coast of the North and Baltic Seas and show what details in the navigation charts will allow you to make a conclusion about the security of the anchorage.
Working with maps
Navigation charts depict specific details not only of the water surface, but also of the coast. For ships at anchor, information such as forest cover or relief is interesting. Information about the shore is also important. Yachts anchored off a steep shore are more protected than those anchored on a flat spit, while rocky coastlines often suggest that the seabed will also be rocky.
Well protected bays
Bays protected on all sides- rare and favorite shelters to wait out the storm. Ideally, their diameter does not exceed one to two nautical miles, and the only narrow entrance to them ensures that the free wave of the open sea does not find its way into the bay. In the Baltic Sea, the coastal zone of these bays is most often surrounded by forest and has small hills that provide good protection even in strong winds.
If you anchor not too close to the shore, then in small bays of this type even unexpected changes in wind direction can be neglected. However, you should constantly check whether the anchor is still holding. In the northern part of the strait Als Sund the bay is located Dyvig, which is highly rated as an anchorage spot.
Why is it so popular among Danish yachtsmen? The entrance at the southern end of the bay is narrow and only visible just before entering the bay. In addition, immediately after its entrance, the bay turns sharply to the north in such a way that the free wave of the open sea, which enters from the west, cannot greatly interfere with yachts at anchor. The banks are covered with forest and offer sufficient protection on all sides in case of headwinds. An isobath of two meters runs parallel to it at a short distance from the shore and thus prevents yachts from drifting away when the wind direction changes towards the shore slope. If things get really rough, both small harbors at the northern end of the bay can be used as an alternative for anchoring.
“The narrow passage is a typical sign of such a safe bay on all sides.”
The bay is also well protected Helnaes, lying southwest of the island Funen (F?nen), with the same characteristics, but much larger. The bay is protected from the west by a large peninsula, while three smaller islands fence off the bay from the south. The bay offers a wide variety of anchorages and there is a calm spot in any wind direction. Of course, if the wind direction changes, it should be changed.
According to the map, The banks are densely forested and provide some basic protection. In case of strong westerly winds, you can find protection on the leeward side of the peninsula. Not only because the shore is hidden there too dense forest, but also because the small dot on the map symbolizes that the anchorage is protected by a hill. The height mark runs on the map in close proximity to the coastline, so that the coast goes up quite steeply for more than 20 meters. Such areas are distributed throughout the bay and promise good protection when the wind direction changes.
Fjords
During the last ice age, huge glaciers covered large parts of the north. On their way to the lower regions of the modern Baltic Sea, gigantic masses of ice burrowed into the landscape and left behind kilometer-long furrows on today's coast. These narrow sea bays often offer excellent anchorage conditions, as nature itself has made them protected.
In Schlei, one of the narrowest fjords, anchorage opportunities are presented one after another. When weather conditions change, ships can use another bay. Due to the narrowness of the fjords, a strong wave can neither form here nor penetrate from the outside: natural sandbanks that formed at the confluence with the Baltic Sea prevent waves from entering the strait Belt. When there is a strong westerly wind, shoals can form in larger, semicircular bays called noors.
Strong currents or changes in water levels may occur in strong winds of force 6 Beaufort, but this is rare. In both bays to the south and north of the harbor, shown on the fragment of the map, you can easily find a place to anchor.
If weather conditions change, you must look for another parking place. It's rare to be truly unpleasant here. But if, nevertheless, the water level changes noticeably, to be on the safe side, you should move to a nearby harbor.
Islands with crescent spits
When crossing the islands of the Danish South Sea, the most common type of anchor bay is crescent bay, which is not protected on one side. Most often we are talking about a flat spit, which protects the anchorage area, at least from free waves. Since these spits are mostly sand, they do not provide much protection from the wind, but have an excellent sandy bottom for anchoring. Bay near the island Avernako, shown in the photo, provides sufficient protection in westerly conditions and has a good seabed for anchoring thanks to the sand spit, which is marked with a dotted line.
Even if it is impossible for a wave to form in the bay, it can become uncomfortable in strong winds. To the north of the bay there is a steep coast and a hill, which provide an alternative in case of strong winds. This type of bay requires a little more attention as it needs to react to changes in wind direction. If the wind direction remains constant, these bays will provide a relaxing anchorage that will be a memorable voyage experience.
Wadden Sea/tidal zones
Wadden Sea- This is a one-of-a-kind natural landscape created by the changing tides, which are the reason for the daily change in the appearance of Watts. Frisian Islands, which stretch along the Dutch and German coasts, surround the Wadden Sea and protect the entrance channel from the partially unfavorable conditions of the North Sea. Constantly changing water levels and tidal currents require a high degree of attention and care from yachtsmen. However, not only does navigation in Watts require a lot of attention, anchoring also obeys different rules. However, if you follow some basic rules when choosing an anchorage, the Wadden Sea provides varied and, above all, well-protected anchorages.
Wadden Sea cut by natural channels: tides. They provide movement - water entering the watts and back. While some tides dry up at low tide, large tides reach a depth of four meters even at low tide. On nautical charts the depth of the bed is indicated as LAT (Lowest Astronomical Tide) and denotes the lowest possible water level. Even during strong spring tides, this value is less than the value stated on the chart, so there is still a lot of water under the keel, an order of magnitude more than what is stated on the chart.
Since the Wadden Sea is a protected area, there are special traffic rules that are developed in accordance with government laws and land regulations. Compliance with these rules is mandatory in order not to cause great harm to the animal and plant world. The Union of Shallow Water Yachtsmen, representing the interests of those who sail on the North Sea coastline, has developed its own code of honor.
The main one is the provision that zone 1 marked on navigation charts is a territory in which anchoring is prohibited. This also applies to the marked fairway. Otherwise, anchoring in the Wadden Sea does not present any particular problems, so says Olaf Morgenstern, an experienced yachtsman who regularly anchors in the North Sea foreshore and also runs aground at low tide.
Even if shallow water yachtsmen choose an anchorage location most often intuitively, they also follow clear rules that can be clearly understood from the navigation chart and always be guided by them.
Since a lot of water flows through deep-sea tides, fast currents arise in them, while the soil is often very hard. In conditions when the wind blows against the current, rough seas begin, which prevents a restful anchorage: an unfavorable circumstance for a calm anchorage. Therefore, you should avoid deep-sea tides, which are easily recognized on navigation charts.
More suitable are shallow tides, which, even at low tide, provide a sufficient amount of water and also have soil with a slight rise towards the shallows.
Most often, the water there is much calmer, the current is not so strong, and the soil is mostly soft. If the wind direction changes, with a strong wind of 6 points on the Beaufort scale, these places will in any case lose their attractiveness. Some places offer complete comfort, since even at low tide they do not remain without water, so that there is always the desired palm-width of water under the keel.
In soft muddy soil the keel is buried a few more centimeters, thus preventing any unintentional capsizing of the boat. If the keel is still stuck in the mud, and at the last moment before low tide you want to start the engine and leave the anchorage, the best alternative is a cup of coffee, good book and waiting for the tide. “If you try with all your might to pull the ship out of the mud, the propeller can leave grooves up to two meters deep,” says Iris Bornhold, chairman of the union Soltwaters Wattseglervereinigung.
In the following sections we will introduce you to some of the places on the North Sea coastline and, using nautical chart information, show you what makes a good intertidal anchorage.
Code of honor Soltwaters Wattseglervereinigung for those who walk on the North Sea coastline
- Behave in the Wadden Sea...,
…it’s like you’re visiting Mother Nature. The Wadden Sea is an area where peace reigns. Take this into account in all your actions, avoid loud and fussy engine noise, unnecessary flapping of the sail, loud music on the radio.
- Feel your responsibility...
…for the behavior of others, especially your own team. Often harm is caused not intentionally, but out of ignorance. Along with his main responsibility to manage the yacht and crew, the skipper must familiarize his crew with the features and beauty of the Wadden Sea and orient their behavior in harmony with nature
- Don’t throw anything overboard...
…especially no cans or bottles, no plastic, no oils or paint residue. For household waste there are trash cans that can be found in any harbor
- Be respectful of restricted areas...
...there are a number of restricted areas, which are indicated on the corresponding navigation maps. They must protect sensitive plants and animal species of the Wadden Sea from possible disturbance, especially during egg hatching and mating season, respectively from 1.04 to 31.07. every year. Do not disturb seals or birds, even to photograph them. Seals are very curious by nature - they themselves come closer to the ship. And then using a long lens you can take impressive pictures.
Shallow tides with slight rise of the shoreline
Small tides which, even at low tide, are filled with water and provide the opportunity for anchoring, are more suitable than large and deep ones.
Since the current in these shallow flats is not particularly strong, there are no formations on the sides of the flats. steep slopes, but sloping, soft soil.
Such conditions promise a generally easy location on the North Sea coastline, which is flooded during high tides, with the added advantage of being elevated on the windward side.
Since there are no high elevations in the Wad, and the highest are the flat sandbanks at low tide, despite the calm water there is no protection from the wind. However, if the parking place is chosen near one of the islands, you can find some protection from the wind.
Surrounded by small rises in the coastal strip
In the Wadden Sea it is rare, but still possible to find places for anchorage, similar to the bays of the Baltic Sea protected on all sides. Although these "bowls" are not surrounded by protective coastal formations, there are places surrounded by a slight rise in the shoreline and the depth there is sufficient even at low tide.
Since the slight rise of the coastline ensures that waves do not form and provides protection from the wind in almost all directions, such bays are an ideal alternative to crowded harbours. True, they are not easy to recognize on the map. Most often they branch off from a small tide and end at low tide at a slight rise in the shoreline.
Deeper tides
Even if deep tides are less suitable for anchorage, sometimes it becomes necessary to look for a more or less suitable place there. During the summer months, most island harbors are often hopelessly overcrowded. Anyone who, after a long day of sailing, approaches the harbor in the evening and realizes that it is completely clogged, has two alternatives: drop anchor somewhere nearby or sail for another couple of hours to the next harbor.
Since the last option is not always feasible due to the effects of tides, and the other harbor, perhaps, can also be occupied, only the first option remains open. The coastal zone of the Netherlands is dominated by large deep tides, which are ten meters deep even at low tide, so you have to look for a suitable anchorage there. Along the edges of the tide the current is much less, the tides run close to the land, so the island itself slightly protects the ship.
Of course, it quickly becomes so shallow beyond the fairway that you should anchor immediately behind the strip of buoys. Ideally, you will be able to find another small shallow area on the map. Although it can be uncomfortable in a “wind direction versus current direction” situation, the extended shallows along the edges of the tide trap a large free wave.
Practical advice
When anchored in Watts, always keep a spare anchor at the stern ready. If the bow anchor slips, you can quickly throw out the stern anchor, which will further prevent both chains from twisting. As the direction of water movement changes, the anchor should also be monitored and, if necessary, thrown out again.
