How to build a beautiful chicken coop in the country. How to build a warm chicken coop with your own hands. Video: do-it-yourself warm chicken coop

Friends, in this photo collection I would like to show projects of the simplest homemade chicken coops in the country, which you can make with your own hands. Often, summer residents who live on their summer cottage all year round, or from spring to autumn, get chickens.

Most people focus on 10 pieces plus a rooster - this is a kind of minimum that will allow you to have both eggs and meat. Chickens not only lay eggs, but also leave valuable fertilizer - chicken droppings, so their benefits are double.

The simplest chicken coop with a walking area under the net

Or maybe even triple, if you consider that surplus eggs can always be sold on the market, which means you can recoup at least part of the costs. I offer you 10 projects for building a chicken house that I found and which seemed worthy of attention.

The simplest winter chicken coop is easy to maintain

Here with this project home chicken coop everything should be clear from the drawing. Select sizes to suit your needs. The idea seemed very practical to me.

Beautiful winter version of the poultry house

I liked this beautiful and functional mini chicken coop for 5 chickens. The video shows the entire structure with behind-the-scenes comments from the author. Take a look and get inspired to build.

The idea of ​​a good-quality chicken coop with a poultry walking area

If your herd is larger, you can increase the size. This, in my opinion, is the best video, I can watch it all the time, everything is done so intelligently!

This video gives practical advice on construction. I recommend watching it!

Wooden frame chicken coop

If you are just starting to delve into the issue of building a chicken coop yourself, then this article is for you! Carefully read the practical part of construction, there in clear language describes how to build a frame house for chickens, covered with planks on both sides, how to insulate it, how to make a floor and windows.

Video by Sergei Lisitsky - an excellent chicken coop for 15 chickens (Hisex and Loman Brown breeds)

Be sure to watch this video! I think that Sergei has the ideal and correct chicken coop and the optimal breeds of laying hens. 13-15 eggs per day from 15 chickens is, in my opinion, an excellent indicator! After reading the video material, it will not be difficult for you to make a similar chicken coop for yourself.

Chicken coop project with walking area

You can see in detail in excellent magnified photos the design of a chicken coop with a walking area. The light summer house is connected to a walk fenced with a chain-link fence. Very useful article!

In it, the authors also touch on the rules for keeping chickens, because the structure of the chicken coop directly depends on these rules. The photo projections show the dimensions of the house and its necessary elements: feeding troughs, perches, openings for access to walking.

Chicken coop with a timber frame covered with plywood

The construction of a wonderful chicken coop for 20 chickens is described on the website

The structure was built from timber covered with OSB board. With a gable roof and windows covered with thick metal mesh. The article contains a list of materials required for construction. In principle, this chicken coop can be built with a metal frame - it’s up to the owner.

However, to use this chicken coop in winter, additional insulation is needed. The project involves the construction of a run around the chicken coop. We hope that this material will be useful to you!

You will see the construction of a “five-star” chicken coop on the “Do It Yourself” website

On step by step photos The construction and decoration of a warm winter house for chickens is captured in detail. The size of the chicken coop is 4x5 m, it consists of two rooms. This chicken coop even has a heated floor!

Everything has been thought out: a perch with removable trays, a ventilation system, doors at the bottom of the wall for chickens to escape into the next room. If you decide to build a winter chicken coop, then this information is for you!

Backfill winter poultry house option

Small chicken coop with walking area

The author of the article offers readers an interesting project for a small chicken coop

Its overall size is 2x3 m. The base of this chicken coop is made of 100x100 mm timber, and the frame of the house is made of 50x50 mm timber. The house itself is small - only 2x1.2 m, lined with OSB boards and finished with a slab coated with Maxima paint (mahogany). Looks pretty good! The chickens don’t care, but people enjoy watching! Consider this successful project.

Chicken coop option for 50 chickens

The article talks about the construction of a chicken coop (poultry house). For construction, you can use the drawing of a chicken coop for 50 chickens. For clarity, the authors of the site have placed a video at the end of the article about the features of caring for this type of bird. This is related to the peculiarities of arranging the necessary premises for them. Interesting video. Quite clear, concise and useful information!

Lighting issues

Also, after building the room, you need to resolve issues with lighting. This video provides useful tips.

Fleas in the chicken coop

Separately, I would like to say about fleas, or more precisely about prevention methods to prevent their appearance in the chicken coop. The main condition is the presence of a container with ash so that the chickens can take ash baths.

By the way, contrary to the belief of some, lice do not touch chickens, and there is no way they can breed on them. Therefore, there cannot be any lice on chickens, only fleas.

Photos of chicken coop ideas - what they are like

An example of a good-quality wooden chicken coop, with a walking area for chickens, protected by a net from predators. Please note that the design allows you to move it from place to place, thereby providing the bird with access to fresh greens.

We all have our own idea of ​​what the ideal chicken coop should be. For example, this one is more of an option for city dwellers who want to play with chickens for the summer.

This is a simple, good-quality chicken coop with a walking area covered with mesh. In general, nets are absolutely necessary, since ferrets can chew the bird. These animals can destroy all the chickens in one night, so pay attention to protecting the birds from these predators.

But if a rat gets through, it will spoil the eggs; it will not dare to attack the birds. Only in extreme cases, when one is completely hungry, have large rats attacked chickens. A control option, as in the case of ferrets, is to upholster the inside of the room with mesh.

Well, if a fox snuck into your chicken coop, then all you have to do is sympathize. It will suppress everyone, and if you follow the safety rules, no one will get in your way. Therefore, address all questions to yourself...

Another example of decorative execution. Children will be happy to watch the life of chickens.

I am a woman, which means I am primarily looking for beautiful ideas. Functional designs are written above, but here - joy!

Another simple chicken coop is a square for 5 hens and a rooster. This is an all-season option and is heated inside.

If you are concerned about your garden, but still want your chickens to be able to eat insects and fresh herbs, then pay attention to the idea of ​​a tunnel with a metal mesh.

Such a structure can be regularly moved around the site so that birds do not trample down the same place. Also, a metal mesh will protect your chickens from predatory animals and hawks.

The mesh can simply be folded into an arc, and the bottom edges can be fastened with either wire or fishing line so that the arc does not unfold. Individual fragments of the structure can be fastened together with plastic clamps, or with the same wire or fishing line.

A strict chicken coop that resembles a closet. It is imperative to consider lighting inside the room so that the chickens can fully use the space. The fact is that chickens almost cannot see at dusk; remember the expression “night blindness”. Therefore, always light the chicken coop.

The simplest summer chicken coop hut for five chickens. Suitable for those summer residents who are interested in the process of interaction with the bird rather than receiving large quantity eggs

A transparent chicken coop is a nest, but even it has perches. In general, a perch is an essential element of any chicken coop, even the smallest one. Chickens, like any birds, love to sit on sticks; this is inherent in them by nature.

Just always make these sticks in one row, otherwise the stratification of society will flourish among the chickens and weak individuals will be herded to the lower levels.

Would you like to have such a cute chicken coop in your country house? Original, beautiful and practical!

Beautiful chicken coop with walking area

An interesting example of a good quality chicken coop. The author did not make the structure from waste material, but approached it with understanding and purchased new wood for the chickens.

Of course, this is an option for the dacha, for the summer, for your own consumption. But first of all, we need an egg for ourselves.

Exit for chickens to the walking area.

External feeder and drinker.

Perch and internal feeder.

Masonry nests.

More ideas

Well, two more beautiful chicken coops to complete the selection.

I hope that this material will be enough for you to make the right decision about your chicken coop project. Build with pleasure, eat homemade eggs from your chickens, sell any surplus if you have any. Good luck!

Bonus video - budget chicken coop for 200 rubles

If you need a chicken coop, but have very little money to purchase building materials, then by watching this video you will learn how you can make it for practically nothing from recycled materials.

In fact, in Europe there is a very widespread passion for buildings made of waste materials. There are even entire communities in which authors share their buildings, and sometimes they look more beautiful than those in which a lot of money was invested.

When the dacha is completed, the beds and flower beds are planted, there is a desire to do something new and interesting. If you spend the period from spring to autumn on your site, try getting chickens. Caring for them is simple, but you will always have fresh eggs and meat. Besides chicken droppings- an indispensable organic fertilizer for the garden. That is why in the countryside you can increasingly see chicken coops, which are used in summer period. These can be both simple structures and real architectural objects decorating the site. It all depends on the skill and imagination of the owner. And you can build a chicken coop at your dacha with your own hands.

• a house for chickens - where they spend time at night, lay eggs, eat, drink;
• places for walking during the daytime - as a rule, this is a small fenced area or enclosure (in summer the bird spends 15-17 hours outside, so it is important to pay more attention to the equipment of this particular area).

There are several types of summer chicken coops:

• with awnings;
• with pens;
• portable.

The most convenient for a summer residence is the first type of chicken coop. The canopy protects from rain, overheating, and birds of prey.

Chicken coops with pens require a certain fencing height. It is important that the bird does not fly over the fence, otherwise it can harm the surrounding plantings (chickens love to rake everything, getting worms, and peck fresh grass and flowers).

Portable chicken coops are usually very light and small in size. In them, the birds are kept in cramped conditions. They have several advantages:

• they can be easily moved to any corner of the garden where there is grass;
• take up minimal space.

Any chicken coop can be improved over time by adding new elements or changing its size. Almost any summer bird house can be converted into a winter one by insulating the outside and installing lighting inside.

Photo gallery: summer chicken coops

Everything should be provided in the chicken coop The chicken coop can be decorated if desired Many birds can live in a large hut The chicken coop can be stylized as a Ukrainian hut A chicken coop-hut from a fairy tale will decorate your summer cottage Chicken coop on wheels is easy to transport The chicken coop should be convenient not only for the birds, but also for cleaning A chicken coop-greenhouse of an unusual shape will decorate any area

The walls and floor of a temporary chicken coop should be made only from natural materials: fiberboard, chipboard, OSB boards, wood. Columns made of timber, metal profiles, or concrete blocks can be used as supports. To build an enclosure, choose a chain-link or reinforcing mesh. The canopy can be made of plywood, polycarbonate, reinforced film or any other material that can protect from rain.

Since the chicken coop is being built for more than one season, make sure that all wooden elements are treated with special impregnations or painted.

The need for a foundation for a temporary house

The summer chicken coop should be installed in an elevated place so that during periods of heavy rain there is no flooding and the water can easily drain into the ground. If the area is flat, you can make a small embankment of gravel or crushed stone, broken brick. Sprinkle an additional layer of sand on top. It is necessary for the digestion of chickens. The foundation, in addition to its main function (holding the structure), will also perform a protective function (protect the bird from attacks by small predators, for example, foxes and rats). Depending on the design, it can be made ribbon or columnar.

If the chicken coop is installed without a foundation, then sheets of slate or strips of metal should be dug into the ground around the perimeter of the structure, which should rise to a height of 30 cm above the ground. If this is not possible, then lay a row of stones so that there are no gaps between the soil and the base of the chicken coop.

There is no point in making a foundation for a portable summer house. It is enough to make the lower base of the frame from wider bars, and attach a mesh to them in such a way that there is no possibility of predators getting inside.

Photo gallery: simple chicken coops for the summer

A chicken coop on a strip foundation will last for many years
A chicken coop with a columnar foundation will be an excellent solution for a summer residence Portable chicken coops no foundation needed

Drawing up a diagram and preparing tools

Before you begin construction, decide on the number of chickens that will be kept there. Depending on this, you need to calculate the size of the house. For 5-6 birds you will need a chicken coop with an area of ​​3 m2, for 10 chickens - 5 m2, for 20 chickens - 10 m2.

The walking area should be quite spacious, about 2-3 times larger than the chicken coop itself. When building, you should take into account the characteristics of the breed that you are going to purchase. Broilers need to move a little, so a small pen is enough for them. Laying hens, on the contrary, stop laying eggs if they are cramped. It is better to build separate chicken coops for birds of different breeds, since they can “fight” with each other.

It is important to consider the following points :

1. Pre-coat the interior walls of the chicken coop with a layer of lime to protect the birds from germs.
2. Chicken droppings produce ammonium, which is toxic to poultry. Consider a ventilation system and a way to clean their home frequently (you can use a galvanized pull-out tray).
3. Place nests for chickens in distant places of the house (one nest for 2-3 birds). In a small house they can be outside, in the form of an attached side drawer.
4. Since chickens drink water a lot and often, drinking bowls should be located both inside the house and in the enclosure.
5. Bird feeders need to be carefully secured as chickens are very active and food can end up in the trash. It is convenient to place a bunker-type feeder indoors.
6. Be sure to install a small window in the chicken coop. Its size must be at least 1/12 of the floor area of ​​the house.
7. To stay at night, chickens need perches (20-25 cm per hen).
8. It is recommended to make the height at least 1.5 m.

If desired, you can easily adapt an old greenhouse into a summer chicken coop by dividing it into zones and replacing the glazing materials with wood and mesh.

Tools you will need:

• pencil and tape measure;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• building level;
• stapler with staples;
• hammer;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• pliers;
• sandpaper.

Photo gallery: diagrams of a chicken coop with a pen for the summer

A small but compact chicken coop made of timber is perfect for a summer residence If desired, the chicken coop can be made both summer and winter Some structures will require a columnar foundation to build.

How to build a summer chicken coop for broilers with your own hands at the dacha

A portable chicken coop is suitable for broilers. At the dacha, you can install a structure for 6-8 birds. The chicken coop will take up only 4 m2.

After you decide on the dimensions, you can start making the house:

1. Assemble two side frames from boards cut at the desired angle using screws or nails.
2. Attach a metal mesh to them using a stapler. If you don’t have this tool, you can do this using nails, not driving them in completely, and then bending the head to the board (imitation of a staple). Make sure that there are no sharp ends left on the surface of the boards, otherwise the bird may be injured.
3. Using self-tapping screws, connect the two side parts of the frame at the top. Secure the lowermost ones between each other with crossbars. For greater stability, connect the two middle parts of the frame with another piece of board, installing it at a distance of 35-40 cm from the bottom.
4. The middle level is the boundary between the perch and the enclosure. Install spacers to strengthen the structure.
5. Cut a rectangle from plywood the right size and place it on the spacers. Attach it with self-tapping screws.
6. To cover the top of the chicken coop, cut two rectangular pieces from plywood and fix them on both sides, starting from the middle crossbar up. To decorate the ridge part, attach two horizontal boards to the plywood. Cover the ends with mesh or make doors on them so that you can clean the chicken coop and collect eggs.
7. Secure the junction of the plywood and the mesh by stuffing the strips. This will protect the fence from deformation and give the structure additional rigidity.
8. To ensure that the bird can easily get into the shelter, make a ramp. Place cross slats onto a strip of plywood. The ramp itself at the top should be attached to the spacer with self-tapping screws.
9. After this, you can create a perch or nest. It is better to attach the drinker and feeder in this design to the door.

Video: a convenient do-it-yourself chicken coop at the dacha

You can make a chicken coop yourself from readily available materials. With the right layout and well-thought-out components, it is easy to maintain. Throughout summer season your family will be provided with fresh eggs, and in the fall also delicious meat.

Home or country farming is a great help. Even a dozen chickens will be provided with eggs and meat. The first thing to do is build a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens. Construction can be quite inexpensive.

Optimal sizes

If you approach the issue of determining the size of a chicken coop scrupulously, then for each breed of bird there is a certain standard of “living space”. But in a country house or in a private house they rarely keep a purebred bird. Therefore, they start from the average.

Estimating the area and dimensions of the building

When building a chicken coop, they usually proceed from the planned number of birds. It is believed that 2-4 chickens can live on 1 square meter of area. If we're talking about about broilers, you can take 3-4 pieces per square meter. They are inactive and this area is enough for them. If we talk about laying hens or meat and egg breeds, it is believed that the optimal number is 2-3 birds per square area. So, a chicken coop for 10 broiler chickens can have an area of ​​-2-3 square meters, a poultry house for 10 chickens - when keeping laying hens or meat and egg breeds - requires 4-5 square meters. If you decide to build a chicken coop for 20 chickens, the area for broilers will be 5-7 squares, for eggs and meat - 8-10 squares.

But knowing the area of ​​a chicken coop for 20 chickens or 10 is not everything. We still need to decide on the sizes. Most often they try to make a rectangular building: 3 * 1.5 m; 4*, etc. In this case, you can clean the poultry house without going inside - a rake, scraper, broom will reach even the far corners. Square ones are not so convenient in this regard, although a small chicken coop for 10-20 chickens will still not be large. So a square is fine.

How tall should the chicken coop be?

When building a chicken coop, you still need to decide on the height of the building. For birds, a height of about 140-150 cm is sufficient. But you must remember that you will have to clean the house, collect eggs, and change bedding. So when choosing the height of the poultry house, they proceed from their own convenience. For this reason, the roof is made higher than head level - so that you can walk upright.

No overlap

There are two options when installing a roof. First: if the poultry house is without a ceiling (ceiling), you can remove the walls by about 140-150 cm, make the roof gable and raise the ridge by 180-200 cm (or a little higher, as is convenient for you). In this case, you can move around the center of the room without problems, but we still rarely go to the edges. There is usually a perch and nests there, and there may be bedding. You will have to work carefully in this area, protecting your head.

The benefit of this option is that with this arrangement we save on wall material. The downside is that more is spent on insulating the roof: it must be insulated over the entire area, which is significantly more than what is required when insulating the ceiling. But, in general, this option turns out to be less expensive, but also less convenient (you have to take care of your head).

With attic

The second option for how to build a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is to make a mini-copy of a regular house. In this case, the walls are driven to the height required for free movement inside. This is a person’s height, plus 10-20 cm. But keep in mind that part of the height will go to the ceiling, there will also be a floor and bedding on it. Each requires about 15 cm of height. So, if the owner of the chicken coop is 180 cm tall, you will have to make walls with a minimum height of 220-230 cm.

As you can see, this option will require more materials for the walls, but only the ceiling (ceiling) can be insulated, and the attic can be left cold. The attic can also be used to store straw, bedding, etc. But don’t forget about rodents, who love such storage facilities and can become a problem.

On poles

Another option: make a chicken coop for 10 chickens on poles. In this case, 4 beams are dug into the ground at the corners of the building, the floor covering is made at a height of 50-80 cm from the ground level. The roof is made at a height of 180-200 cm. In general, this is a convenient option for a mini-chicken coop for a summer residence. This is more of a summer option, but can be insulated. In order for the bird to be able to get in and out, an inclined ladder is made from boards with thin perches nailed about 10 cm apart to make it easier for the bird to move.

In general, you choose the height and general construction plan at your own discretion.

Material for building a chicken coop

For chicken coop walls, the material chosen depends on the intended use. For summer chicken coop Boards, plywood, OSB are suitable. Such buildings are made according to the principle of frame house construction: a frame is assembled from timber, covered with boards or sheet material. The task of such buildings is to protect from the sun, wind and rain, and they do this very well.

For winter chicken coop you can use the same materials as for summer, but the walls will have to be insulated. You can also use logs, timber, gas or foam concrete, adobe, cinder block, shell rock, sandstone, etc. Basically, any building materials. If there is material left over from the construction of a house, bathhouse, barn, it can be put to use. Only part of the material during the construction of a winter chicken coop requires mandatory insulation, while others can be done without (depending on the thickness of the wall, winter temperatures).

Boards, OSB, lining, plywood - these are the most popular materials for building a chicken coop

A chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is usually covered with inexpensive material. Most often it is roofing felt or slate, but any other material can be used. Only if you are planning a metal roof (from metal tiles, corrugated sheets), keep in mind that chickens do not like noise. During rain or hail, they may become frightened, which will affect the number of eggs or weight gain.

Insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is vapor-permeable, so normal humidity can be automatically maintained in the chicken coop (if the walls are also vapor-permeable). Polystyrene foam does not allow moisture to pass through, but it is cheaper and is used to build a budget poultry house. Just remember that mice love to live in such insulation (foam plastic and mineral wool). And this is a problem. To block their access to the inside of the wall, it is tightened on both sides with a fine metal mesh (cell size - the smaller the better).

There is also extruded polystyrene foam. It is much more expensive than the options listed above, but the advantage is that fungi do not grow in it, bacteria do not multiply, and insects and rodents do not like it. And one more thing - it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and, to insulate a chicken coop, a thickness of 2-3 cm is enough (foam plastic needs more than 5 cm), so in fact, the cost of insulation will not increase very much.

Drawings and projects

A summer chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is a small building, usually made of wood. A mini poultry house with a walk, which will house less than a dozen birds, has dimensions of 3 * 1.5 m. Moreover, this is with a walk - a fenced off area. The very room where the chickens will spend the night and lay eggs is 80-100 cm deep, 140-160 cm wide, and its height is about 1 meter.

Summer chicken coop for 5-9 chickens with walking - a very small building

For maintenance - changing bedding, cleaning - there is a door in the back wall. There is a small window covered with shutters to let in light. In general, an ideal option for a summer house for seasonally keeping a small number of chickens.

A chicken coop for 10-15 chickens is a more serious building. Dimensions double: 1*2. The height can still be kept low - all servicing can be done through a door in the back wall. There is no need to go inside. Only as a last resort.

For an even larger number of birds, you need to make an even larger barn for chickens. This is really a barn or a shed. You can already enter such a room.

If the winters are snowy, you will have to make high slopes and a hip roof

Please note that even the smallest poultry house should have windows. No one will install metal-plastic, but glass must be present. In a seasonal chicken coop, one glass is enough; in a winter one, it is better to install two. Moreover, the second can only be installed in cold weather. And one more thing: it is advisable to have shutters on the window. This will give you the opportunity to change the length of daylight hours.

There are designs for chicken coops of unusual shapes - in the form of a triangle or a wigwam. This type of construction is optimal. By spending a minimum of funds on construction, we get a substantial area.

This chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is built using frame technology. There are no walls as such; they are covered with soft roofing material. A very rational construction. It is also suitable for snowy regions: with such an inclination, little will be delayed.

Chicken coop for 10-20 chickens: choosing and making a foundation

The type of foundation depends on the type of material chosen. If this is a frame building or timber or logs will be used, the most optimal is a columnar foundation. The costs in time and money are minimal, reliability is sufficient, and possible distortions of the columns are compensated by the strapping and elasticity of the material.

If the walls are built from blocks of any type, brick, shell rock and any similar material, a strip foundation is needed. There are more costs, but there is no other way to do it. More the best option- a foundation in the form of a slab, but the costs for it are even higher. But the slab can be used as a subfloor, and with such a foundation any frost heaving is not a problem.

Preparing the site for the foundation

To build a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands, first clear the area. It is necessary to remove all the fertile layer. Its thickness can be 20 cm or more, and maybe only 5. In any case, we remove everything, including stones, roots, etc. We level the area and compact it. For tamping, you can use a piece of large diameter log with a crossbar-handle nailed on top.

It is necessary to remove the soil because the animal and plant remains in it under the building begin to rot. So it is necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil. We carry out further construction work on the cleared and leveled site.

Columnar foundation

The foundation pillars for the poultry house can be made of brick, but the easiest way is to use concrete blocks 20*20*40 cm. They fit perfectly. If you are building a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens, it is unlikely that your structure will be larger. The longest side length that can be is 4 meters. If the winter is snowy, you can put three supports on this side: two at the edges and one in the middle. If the length of the chicken coop wall does not exceed 3 meters, we place only supports in the corners.

In the selected places we dig holes that are slightly larger in size than the future pillars. The depth of the holes is 25-30 cm. Pour medium-fraction crushed stone onto the bottom and compact it well. The thickness of the compacted layer is 15 cm. We pour sand onto the compacted crushed stone and tamp it well too. Blocks can be placed on this base. They need to be placed “on the horizon”. To do this, you can use pegs with a rope stretched along the level, or you can put even planks on the blocks, lay a building level on them and use it to navigate.

Once the blocks are aligned, you can begin laying the strapping. This is either a beam (for frame or timber construction) or a log. The strapping beam/log must be treated with impregnation. Under them, on the posts, it is advisable to lay a piece of roofing felt or waterproofing material folded in two layers (a modern and improved analogue of roofing felt). That's it, you can continue building the chicken coop.

Strip foundation for a chicken coop

A strip foundation is usually made for a chicken coop for 20 chickens, which will be built from any building blocks, adobe, shell rock, brick, etc. To make a concrete strip, you will have to dig a trench at least 50 cm deep and at least 35 cm wide along the perimeter of the future building. Try to make the walls of the trench even, and if the soil is loose, with a slight slope.

The bottom of the trench is cleared of stones and roots, leveled, and compacted. Crushed stone of medium fraction is poured onto the bottom, leveled and compacted. Layer thickness - 15 cm (compacted). Construction sand is poured on top and compacted. The thickness of the layer is about 10 cm. Next, formwork is assembled from boards in a trench for pouring concrete. The formwork panels should rise above the ground by at least 10-15 cm. In this case, the floor of the chicken coop will be slightly raised.

Strip base - for serious buildings or very difficult soils

To increase resistance to soil movements during frost heaving, reinforcement is placed inside the strip foundation. In this case, two rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm (ribbed, not smooth) are sufficient, which are located at a distance of about 15 cm from each other. The distance from the rods to the formwork panel is at least 5 cm. The distance from the bottom should be the same or greater .

The last step in constructing a strip foundation for a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is pouring concrete. The grade of concrete is M150, it’s not worth doing less. The proportions are standard: for 1 part of M400 cement we take three parts of medium-fraction crushed stone and four parts of dry sand. Water - 0.7-0.8 parts. Mix everything and pour it into the formwork. Having leveled the top edge, cover the foundation with film and wait 1-3 weeks. If it is warm (+20°C and above) we wait a week, if from +17°C to +20°C - two, if less than +17°C - three. After which you can remove the formwork and continue construction.

Remember that the concrete foundation, even for a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens, must be waterproofed. It can be coated twice with bitumen mastic, or you can lay two layers of roll waterproofing. If the humidity in the area is high, it is better to use both.

Insulation and vapor barrier

The walls in the chicken coop are erected using the chosen technology. There are no nuances here. Insulation, in fact, too, but it’s worth talking about insulation, since after all, this building has its own characteristics.

Lay thermal insulation between two layers of sheathing - and here you have a winter chicken coop

Mineral (basalt or glass) wool

Insulation with mineral wool is most often done if a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is built according to the principle of frame house construction. The assembled frame is sheathed on the outside, laying a layer of waterproofing under the material (plywood, OSB, boards). At the same time, please note that there should be a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the outer skin. This can be provided by strips stuffed between the posts or stretched twine (secured with staples from a stapler). The second option is less reliable, but faster and cheaper.

To insulate a chicken coop with mineral wool, it is best to use hard or semi-rigid mats. They are cut into pieces of the required length and inserted into the spacer between the racks on the side of the room. It turns out that on the outside they rest against slats or stretched twine. The thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm (depending on the region) and the material of the outer cladding, but in any case, when installed, it should not protrude beyond the racks. If the width of the racks is not enough, and thick insulation is needed, planks/boards are placed on top of the racks.

During construction, place the racks at such a pitch that the distance between them remains 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation. Due to its greater width, the insulation will hold on (the elastic force works). Just be careful: measure the actual width of the roll, and do not use the number that is on the roll. There may be a difference of a couple of centimeters, the edges may bend, so as a result it will be difficult to install the insulation, as it will fall out. When insulating, try to ensure that the pieces fit together without gaps. If they do exist, fill them in thin strips. The installed insulation can be fixed using ordinary twine and staples made of.

A vapor barrier membrane is fixed over the installed insulation. In the very simple version This is a film with a density of 200 microns. But it’s better to take a membrane for vapor barrier. It is attached to the posts with wooden planks, using small nails or staples from a stapler. At the joints, one sheet should overlap the other by at least 15 cm. Double-sided tape is used to glue the sheets together. This results in a double seam that provides a normal degree of protection against steam penetration. Internal cladding material (plywood, OSB, gypsum fiber board, gypsum plasterboard, boards) can be mounted on top of the vapor barrier film.

Why not an option? Also insulation... All that remains is to come up with something with the floor

So, when insulating a chicken coop with mineral wool, the wall pie looks like this (from inside to outside):

• internal lining;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap;
• waterproofing;
• outer cladding.

The sequence of layers prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulation from the inside. This task cannot be completed 100% - vapors still penetrate. Therefore, it is necessary to have a ventilation gap between the insulation and the waterproofing. Due to this, the steam trapped in the insulation escapes. It is this construction that guarantees that the insulation will work.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

When insulated with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, everything is a little simpler. It is itself vapor-tight, so it is not necessary to protect it from steam penetration. If a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is built on a frame principle, you can lay foam plastic between the posts. It is cut with a fine-tooth saw (for metal) and secured using polyurethane foam with low expansion. To prevent the insulation from leaking, strips are placed along the racks on both sides. You can lay polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene both from the street and from the room. Sheathing can be done in any order. The only thing: on the street side, under the sheathing, it is better to fix the waterproofing. Especially for polystyrene foam - it “blooms” when exposed to large quantities of moisture.

If a chicken coop for 10-20 chickens is made of vapor-permeable material (foam and gas concrete, timber, logs), it must be insulated with foam plastic from the outside. There should be a ventilation gap between the wall and the insulation, which will allow moisture to evaporate from the wall. To do this, a lath 20-30 mm thick is stuffed onto the wall. Then the counter-batten is stuffed in the opposite direction. The thickness of the bars is no less than the thickness of the insulation. Foam plastic/extruded polystyrene foam is fixed between the counter-battens on the mounting foam. Then, on top, you can install the outer skin.

Ventilation

Chickens feel fine in normal humidity. When they fall or rise, they begin to hurt (high humidity is more dangerous), so ventilation in the chicken coop should creep in during the planning period. A hole is made in one of the walls for air flow. To do this, you can insert a piece into the wall plastic pipe and pick up a lid for it.

The air outflow from the chicken coop (exhaust) is a pipe passed through the roof or the top of the wall. On the street, the pipe rises some distance above the roof and ends with a fungus or a canopy - for protection from precipitation and foliage. The supply and exhaust are located in opposite corners so that the air travels the greatest distance. This type of ventilation is called natural, but it does not always work stably.

For stable operation, a fan with a cover is embedded in the upper part of the wall. It's better if it has several speeds. The operation of this type of ventilation does not depend on the weather, but depends on the availability of electricity and requires human intervention. In principle, you can do both methods and use them as needed.

Many summer residents and people living in private houses are engaged in keeping chickens. Like other living creatures, chickens require special place where they will walk and spend most of their time. If in summer you can equip an old barn and an aviary next to it for this purpose, then in winter you will need to build a full-fledged chicken coop to keep the birds.

Is it necessary to build a warm chicken coop?

Health and egg production poultry directly depend on their comfort, good nutrition and general physical activity. Temperature and daylight hours play an important role.

Old barn converted into a chicken coop with a run for walking

The period from November to March is the most difficult for both poultry and poultry farmers who keep laying hens all year round. If in spring and summer the bird leads an active lifestyle, walks freely around the enclosure or alley, bathes in sand and specially designed containers with water, then in winter, for obvious reasons, its activity is greatly limited.

If the temperature is too low and there is no light, the egg production of laying hens is greatly reduced, and in some cases stops completely. Based on this, during the cold season a chicken coop should be built for chickens, providing the following conditions:

• temperature above 10–12 o C and low air humidity;
• artificial lighting that increases daylight hours;
• natural or artificial ventilation for constant air exchange;
• a place for nests and a free perch at a low altitude;
• free space at the rate of 1 m2 per chicken.

Compliance with the conditions described above ensures that laying hens not only remain completely healthy and survive the winter well, but also maintain egg production and overall body weight.

Types of insulated chicken coops

An ordinary chicken coop is a barn, near which there is an area for walking birds on fresh air. The walking area is fenced with a fine mesh net, which will reliably protect the bird’s habitat from unwanted penetration of predators.

Winter chicken coop made of timber and boards for 30–35 chickens

In fact, this option can be taken as a basis when building a warm chicken coop. Especially if you need a room to keep no more than 10–15 chickens. If desired, you can consider a more comfortable chicken coop with both external and internal walking areas. But in this case, its size will be noticeably larger, which is not suitable for small suburban areas.

Depending on the number of birds, the following types of chicken coops can be used:

In many ways, all three types of chicken coops are similar and differ only in size, but with enough materials and free space on the site, an insulated chicken coop can have a completely different look.

For example, you can build a completely enclosed structure, which will already have a place for walking. This will allow the chickens to avoid hypothermia during walks, and will also give the bird the opportunity to walk freely, even when it is -15–20 o C outside.

Choosing materials for construction with your own hands

A variety of building materials can be used to build a chicken coop - from edged boards to masonry bricks. Any material has both positive and negative qualities, which should also be taken into account when choosing.

Base material

The construction of a chicken coop, like any structure, begins with laying a load-bearing foundation. The foundation is necessary for reliable protection of load-bearing walls and roofs. In the absence of a foundation, the walls of the chicken coop will be under constant influence of moisture, which will come from the damp earth. As a result, this will lead to rotting and damage to structurally important components of the structure.

Concrete, brick or foam blocks are used to make foundation supports

To build an insulated chicken coop, you can use the following types of foundations:

• columnar - suitable for building chicken coops using frame technology, when the walls are made of thick boards and OSB. Foam blocks or concrete mixture are used to make the foundation. The supports are erected along the perimeter of the future structure;
• pile - used for the construction of buildings on heaving and moving types of soil. A base in the form of metal piles sunk into the ground around the perimeter of the building is suitable for constructing wooden chicken coops. If the foundation is a pile-grillage foundation, then its load-bearing capacity is sufficient to build a chicken coop from foam blocks;
• strip - the most reliable type of foundation. It can be used to build a chicken coop of any size and design. To make a strip foundation, a concrete mixture of grade M500, steel reinforcement Ø18 mm and edged boards are used.

To make a grillage, you can use it as wooden beam 20×20 cm, and concrete mixture grade M500. The first option is cheaper and easier to implement. Using a concrete mixture requires the ability to set formwork and knit a reinforcement cage, but in general, the use of these materials allows you to build a more reliable and durable foundation.

The choice of materials for making the floor in the chicken coop depends on what type of foundation is used. For pile and columnar foundations, it is more rational to use wooden beams, edged boards and CBPB sheets. In the case of a strip foundation - concrete and reinforcing materials.

Wall materials

The choice of material for constructing the walls of a chicken coop depends on the size of the structure and the technology by which it will be built. The simplest and fastest option is a chicken coop made of wooden beams and OSB. A beam or thick board (from 22 mm) is used to construct the frame, which is later sheathed with OSB sheets inside and out.

Foam block is perfect for constructing permanent walls of a winter chicken coop

To build the main walls of a chicken coop, you can use the following materials:

• shell rock - natural material with low thermal conductivity. Perfect for building chicken coops for 25–30 chickens. The shell rock is a rectangular block 180x180x380 mm. The technology of work is in many ways reminiscent of the process of laying foam or cinder blocks;
• foam concrete is a popular environmentally friendly building material. Suitable for building chicken coops of any size. For the construction of walls, it is better to use D400 foam blocks measuring 200x300x600 mm. The thickness of the walls being built depends on temperature regime in the region;
• brick is a traditional material for the construction of load-bearing walls. Has low thermal conductivity and long service life. It is best used for the construction of permanent chicken coops for 50 or more chickens. Both solid and hollow bricks are suitable for the construction of chicken coops.

When choosing material for walls, you should also take into account how long the structure will be built. If you are just trying yourself as a poultry farmer, then the optimal choice of material for walls will be wooden beams and OSB. In the future, such a chicken coop can be disassembled or expanded with a small extension.

If you already raise chickens in large numbers and are planning to build a permanent chicken coop, then it is better to build a permanent structure from foam blocks or bricks. Such a chicken coop will cost more, but its service life is noticeably longer.

Insulation material

To insulate the floor, walls and ceilings of the chicken coop, you can use various thermal insulation materials. Most cheap option- this is the use of sawdust, expanded clay and dry hay. Expanded clay is used to insulate floors or ceilings, and sawdust and hay are used to insulate walls.

Polystyrene foam has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, which makes it one of the best materials for wall insulation

The only disadvantage of this method compared to modern heat insulators is that the materials have a high thermal conductivity coefficient. In turn, this requires the installation of a large layer of insulation, which is not always possible when building a chicken coop.

Modern insulation materials that can be used to insulate walls and floors in a chicken coop include:

When choosing a thermal insulation material, you should take into account its cost and the surface area that you plan to insulate. For small chicken coops You can use stizol and other materials made of polyethylene foam. Stizol has a low thermal conductivity coefficient (0.3 W/m*K) - this ensures that the material reliably retains heat indoors.

For chicken coops with 50 chickens or more, it is recommended to use a combined approach. For example, insulate the floor with expanded clay and the walls with extruded polystyrene foam. If you want to save money, it is better to use polystyrene foam or mineral wool together with stizol.

Preparatory work

To build a chicken coop quickly and without problems, you should carefully prepare for the task. construction work. To do this, you need to decide on the location of the chicken coop, draw up a drawing of the future structure, calculate the material and prepare construction tools.

The diagram should show the location of nests, roosts and feeding areas.

When choosing a location on the site, it is advisable to adhere to the following:

• It is not recommended to build a chicken coop in a lowland or on a slope. It is optimal if it is a free area located on a hill;
• chickens and other poultry are afraid of noise. Therefore, it is better to build a chicken coop away from the road and other sources of noise;
• The health of chickens directly depends on the amount of sunlight. To ensure free flow of light, the structure should be located on the south side.

If the soil on the site is clayey, loamy, swampy or other soil that does not absorb moisture well, then it is recommended to drain the site before building the chicken coop. If this is not done, the supporting base of the structure will quickly become unusable, and this will reduce the service life of the chicken coop as a whole.

Once you have found a suitable place to build a chicken coop, you can proceed to drawing up a drawing. This can be done either using regular paper and pencil, or using special computer programs for design.

Opposite each structural element you need to indicate the size - this will help to avoid mistakes during construction

The drawing should show the structure on a reduced scale. It is taken into account that the size of the structure depends on the number of chickens that are planned to be kept.

Opposite each structural element, its size should be indicated. This will help you quickly navigate the project without wasting time on calculating this or that part of the structure. Additionally, you should depict the chicken coop in a projection from above. On this part of the diagram you need to locate the entrance to the room, perches, nests, feeding area, etc.

As an example, consider the two diagrams located above. Both options are designed for keeping 10-12 chickens. The first diagram shows a chicken coop on a columnar foundation 200x400 cm with a pitched roof. To make a chicken coop, edged boards with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm are used. If desired, this diagram can be taken as a model on the basis of which the chicken coop you need will be built.

The second diagram shows a chicken coop with an aviary for walking. The dimensions of the structure, including the vestibule, are 425x525 cm. To build the chicken coop, as in the previous version, a wooden board and beam are used.

Materials for building a chicken coop

Materials for building an insulated chicken coop are selected based on personal preferences and the funds you are willing to spend on building the structure. For example, to build a chicken coop from the first example described above, the following material is needed:

It is advisable to use galvanized wood screws or galvanized nails as fasteners. To ensure reinforcement of the frame, you can use a steel angle of a suitable size.

Tool for work

To build a chicken coop you need the following tools:

Technology for making a chicken coop with perches

The technology for manufacturing chicken coops of various sizes is largely similar. The main thing is to follow the sequence of actions and adhere to the drawing that was drawn up earlier. The construction of an insulated chicken coop begins with marking, preparing the site and pouring the load-bearing foundation.

Making the foundation and floor

The size of the chicken coop directly affects the overall weight of the structure, so when choosing the type of foundation, take into account the size of the structure being built. For a chicken coop for 15–20 chickens, it is recommended to build a pile or columnar foundation. The second option is the most popular, since the supports can be poured yourself using a concrete mixture.

To pour the foundation and build the floor of the chicken coop, you will need to do the following:

1. According to the drawing, it is necessary to mark the place where the chicken coop is planned to be built. To do this, you will need to level the ground with a shovel. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the ground, and a rope is pulled between them.

   Marking the foundation using pegs and rope is the easiest and fastest option.

2. In the corners of the marked area, it is necessary to dig holes for concrete supports with a depth of 50–60 cm. For this, a hand drill and a shovel are used. The dimensions of the wells are 30x30 cm. Wells of similar size and depth are installed along the perimeter of the future structure in increments of 2 m.
3. For chicken coops longer than 6 m, it is advisable to construct a concrete grillage. To do this, you will need to dig a trench 20 cm deep around the perimeter of the marked area. At the bottom of the trench it is necessary to fill 10 cm of sand and 10 cm of gravel of fraction 20–40. Each layer is carefully leveled and compacted.

   To assemble the formwork box for support, it is best to use plywood or flat slate

4. Formwork for supports and grillage is made and installed from edged boards. To do this, the boards are knocked together into panels up to 70 cm high. Supports made of bars and bricks are used for installation. For reinforcement, reinforcement is used, which is knitted into a frame consisting of two lower and two upper rods.
5. To fill the foundation, a concrete mixture based on M500 cement and fine-grained sand, taken in a ratio of 1:3, respectively, is used. For mixing, use a concrete mixer or electric drill with a mixer attachment. Pouring the supports and grillage begins from any convenient angle.
6. After pouring the foundation, you will need to wait for the minimum strength to reach. To do this, the foundation is covered with plastic film and left to dry for 7–10 days.

   The piping of the columnar foundation is made of 20×20 cm timber

7. After 10 days, the surface of the foundation is covered with roofing felt, on which a wooden frame made of 20x20 cm timber is laid. The frame is a box of 4 blanks, which are connected at the corners using self-tapping screws and a steel angle. Before installation, the harness is treated with a wood antiseptic. The harness is attached directly to the grillage with anchor bolts.
8. Logs made of 20×200 mm boards are mounted to the laid harness. To do this, you need to prepare several blanks from the board. The number of logs depends on the length of the chicken coop. The installation step is 1 m. After this, the board is placed on its edge and attached to the harness using self-tapping screws and a corner.

   The logs are attached directly to the timber frame in 1 m increments

9. The resulting floor structure is hemmed with a rough board, which is fixed to the joists and trim. After covering, the entire floor structure is treated with a wood antiseptic.

It is better to insulate the floor after assembling the load-bearing walls (see below). To do this, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, which is fixed with a construction stapler. Then the space between the lags is filled with expanded clay of fraction 20–40. Finally, floorboards from edged boards are laid on the joists.

Erection of chicken coop walls and insulation of the structure

The walls of wooden chicken coops are best erected using frame technology. This will allow the insulation to be placed in the space between the outer and inner lining, which will prevent its damage during operation of the poultry house.

The technology of insulation and construction of walls consists of the following:

1. An edged board is mounted at the corners of the trim, which is fixed using a 50x50x35 mm fastening angle and 50 mm long self-tapping screws. The front posts should be 30–50 cm higher than the rear ones. This will ensure the necessary roof slope. After this, all corner posts are connected by means of an upper frame made from a board of the same section.

   Galvanized nails or self-tapping screws are used to attach the racks to the harness.

2. Next, you need to clarify the width of the insulation that will be used to insulate the walls. Taking into account its width, intermediate supports of the sheathing are installed. They are also attached to the harness using mounting angles and self-tapping screws.
3. To strengthen the structure in the places where the entrance door, the window for the bird to go outside and the windows will be located, horizontal guides are mounted according to a similar principle. To frame the window opening, guides are installed at the top and bottom.

   The intermediate posts of the frame are mounted in increments equal to the width of the insulation used

4. Having finished installing the frame, you can immediately move on to the roof. To do this, you will need to measure the distance from the front drain to the rear. To the obtained value you should add 25–30 cm, which will go to the roof overhang. After this, according to the calculated size, rafters are prepared from edged boards.
5. The prepared blanks are treated with a wood antiseptic. After drying, the rafters are placed on edge and attached to the top frame frame. The pitch between the rafters should be equal to the width of the insulation. Afterwards, a 200 micron thick polyethylene film, a 10X10 mm board sheathing with a gap and roofing material are laid on the rafters.

   Sheathing the walls of the chicken coop with OSB sheets on the outside

6. The chicken coop frame is treated with an antiseptic 2 times. Next, 20x20 mm bars are mounted on the outer side, onto which OSB sheets are attached using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. The pitch between screws is 20 cm.
7. A tension-free vapor barrier membrane is placed in the space between the frame posts. A stapler is used for fastening. After this, mineral wool in slabs or rolls is laid between the racks. It is important that the material lies tightly and does not fall off.

   Insulation in slabs or rolls is placed in the space between the frame posts

8. When insulating walls with polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or stizol, there is no need to install a vapor barrier. After laying the insulation, the walls are sheathed on the inside of the chicken coop. The place where the ventilation will be located is not sheathed.

The process of roof insulation is similar. To do this, thermal insulation material is laid in the space between the rafters. If desired, roof insulation can be done in two layers of insulation. When covering the frame, remember that there should be a small ventilation gap between the OSB sheets and the insulation.

When insulating the roof, insulation in the form of polyethylene film. Roofing is done using a similar technology. When installing windows, the gaps between the frame and the window frame are filled with foam.

Installation of ventilation and lighting

Ventilation in a chicken coop can be represented either by a regular exhaust vent with a damper or by a full-fledged ventilation duct, which will be located under the roof.

The best option for a chicken coop built using frame technology is two ventilation holes located on opposite walls of the building. In order to install ventilation, you will need to cut a square hole in the wall of the chicken coop. This can be done with a jigsaw by first drilling a small hole in the casing for inserting the cutting blade.

The second hole is cut in a similar pattern 40 cm below the first. Supply ventilation fans of any convenient size are mounted in the holes. The average cost for similar products without additional functions does not exceed 800–1000 rubles.

Lighting in the chicken coop can be done using LED strips of varying brightness

For lighting it is better to use 1–2 fluorescent lamps or LED strip with white light output. To lay electrical wiring, plastic corrugation and copper cable of the appropriate cross-section are used.

If you plan to install heating equipment, it is recommended to use fan heaters with automatic temperature control. They can be turned on when the temperature inside the chicken coop at night drops below 12 o C.

Making perches and nests

To make perches, you can use a wooden block 20x20 cm or a round profile 28x2200 mm, which can be purchased at various hardware stores.

When making nests, remember that one hen requires 30–35 cm of free space

To install perches you will need to do the following:

1. Perches are installed at a height of 50–70 cm from the floor level. The installation location is selected based on the free space in the room. It is best to use a place near the window for this.
2. To make perches, you will need to measure the width of the chicken coop. According to this value, it is necessary to prepare 4–6 blanks from a round wooden profile or block.
3. Boards 50 cm long will be used as supports, which are mounted on opposite walls. First, 3x3 cm recesses are sawn into the boards to install the poles.
4. For more reliable fixation, the pole is attached to the support using self-tapping screws or nails. The step between adjacent perches is 25–30 cm. The height distance is at least 20 cm.

To make it more convenient for chickens to climb onto the roost, you will need to make a small ladder from a board. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the lower perch. Next, the workpiece is sawn off, to which short 20x20 mm blocks are attached. After which the ladder is attached to the lower perch using self-tapping screws.

For nests, it is better to use a semi-open box made of a wooden block and lined with OSB. The dimensions and manufacturing diagram can be seen in the photo above. First of all, the frame is assembled from a 20x20 mm bar. To fasten the workpieces, 30 mm long self-tapping screws and mounting angles are used. After which the frame is sheathed with OSB or edged boards. If it is necessary to install nests at a height, then legs are attached to the bottom of the box.

Features of chicken coops in the cellar

When converting a basement into a chicken coop, you should insulate the foundation walls with mineral wool or polystyrene foam

• litter - a layer of dry sawdust 4–5 cm thick. The litter is changed as it gets dirty, but at least once a week. Sometimes you can use hay, but you will have to change it more often;
• lighting - LED lamp power from 5 watts. Using artificial lighting, you should regulate the length of daylight hours. This will help increase the egg production of laying hens;
• insulation - mineral wool, stizol or other rolled heat insulator. To protect the insulation, it is better to use a vapor barrier membrane or dense polyethylene. The thickness of the insulation layer is from 5 cm;
• ventilation - vents in which you can install a supply and exhaust valve. The cellar or basement should be well ventilated periodically. For example, at the time of cleaning the litter.

Nests, as in the case of a full-fledged chicken coop, can be made from edged boards on the basis that one chicken requires 30–40 cm of space. The perch is installed 50–70 cm from the floor level. If desired, the perch can be connected to the nests using boards.

Chicken coop care after winter

Disinfection of the chicken coop is carried out for preventive purposes at least once a year. This allows you to avoid an outbreak of infection and the spread of harmful microorganisms. It is best to carry out disinfection in the spring or summer, when the chickens can safely walk in the fresh air and you can clean the chicken coop.

A set of products for disinfecting chicken coops and other objects where animals and birds can be kept

To disinfect the chicken coop you will need to do the following:

• cleaning - the floor, walls, ceiling, perches and nests must be completely cleaned of dirt and dust. To do this, use a convenient broom and brushes with hard bristles. After this, the surfaces are washed with hot water with the addition of soda ash;
• processing - for disinfection internal space special means are used in the chicken coop. For example, caustic soda in the form of a 2% solution or a 4% xylonaftha emulsion. The solution is prepared strictly according to the recipe without exceeding the norm. When processing, personal protective equipment is used: goggles, gown, respirator.

After treatment, you should wait until the product evaporates completely. The minimum holding time is 2 hours, but it is advisable to wait at least 5–6 hours and only then release the birds. And they also disinfect feeders, drinkers and other accessories that were in the poultry house.

Video: review of a winter chicken coop with walking

The construction of a chicken coop is not particularly difficult - the work can be done independently, without the help of auxiliary workers and specialists. To do this, carefully study our instructions and read the advice of other chicken breeders, which can always be found on the Internet.

It is no secret to many that the comfort of keeping affects the health of chickens, especially in winter. Comfort in a chicken coop is created by proper lighting, ventilation, sufficient space for walking, convenient location of nests, feeders and drinkers. All this together allows birds to lay eggs in more. Therefore, during the cold period it is necessary to build a warm room for chickens, the independent construction of which will not be difficult.

Is it really necessary to build a warm chicken coop?

From the end of autumn to the first month of spring, unfavorable conditions for chickens begin, which creates difficulties for poultry owners.
If in spring and summer the chicken is active: it moves, digs in the ground, bathes in water, then in winter, due to many factors, its activity decreases.

The summer chicken coop does not require additional insulation and lighting

When temperatures drop and daylight hours shorten, birds' ability to lay eggs decreases or even stops completely. That’s why it’s so important to make a chicken coop that will provide:

• temperature level of at least 12 degrees and low humidity;
• artificial lighting - to increase daylight hours;
• the presence of low perches and egg-laying sites;
• the internal area of ​​the room is 1 m2 for 1–7 individuals (depending on the breed).

Meeting these requirements will allow poultry to comfortably overwinter without losing weight and laying eggs daily.

A properly built chicken coop can significantly increase the egg production of birds.

Options for warm chicken coops for the winter

A standard chicken coop is a utility room, next to which there is a place for birds to walk.

The site has a fence made of chain-link mesh with cells small size, protecting chickens from predators. If the farm has no more than one and a half dozen birds, then this is an ideal option. It is possible to arrange a chicken coop with a greater level of comfort, with external and internal walking areas, but then it will take up a large area. This option is not suitable for small plots of land.

The winter chicken coop is built on a foundation on which a thick wooden floor is laid, and the walking area is covered with a roof.

Considering the number of individuals, the following types of chicken coops are used:

1. From 10 to 15 individuals - a mini-chicken coop up to 10 m2 with a walking area of ​​4 m2. Such an area will ensure free movement of both adult birds and young animals in the case of breeding chicks. It is also required to be equipped with a window and a ventilation grill.

   The mini-chicken coop is equipped with a covered run and a box for collecting eggs.

2. From 20 to 30 individuals - a full-fledged room up to 20 m2, a height of 1.8 m and a walking area of ​​6 m2. These dimensions allow you to build a perch in several tiers and install up to 7 nests. If the area of ​​your personal plot is sufficient, then it is better to build a chicken coop with a vestibule: it will provide the required temperature in the main room in winter.

   It is advisable to build a winter chicken coop with a vestibule to protect chickens from drafts

3. More than 50 individuals - a room of about 40 2, up to 2 meters high and a walking area of ​​12 m 2. Such a chicken coop requires additional thermal insulation, ventilation and installation of heating equipment. It is better to place the perches opposite the windows, and the nests (up to 10 pieces) in the back of the room.

   Large chicken coops are built on high stilts, and the walking area is made under the premises

If the area of ​​the personal plot allows, then the chicken coop will be equipped in a completely enclosed room, inside of which there will be a walking area, which will prevent the birds from hypothermia and ensure their free movement even at low air temperatures in winter.

The winter poultry house can be completely enclosed, providing the chickens with a warm place to roam

When you need a chicken coop at minimal cost, there is an option to build it like a dugout. The height of the walls does not exceed 0.5 m, and for insulation they are covered with earth. The roof is also insulated. The southern wall is equipped with windows with multi-layer glass. And the fallen snow additionally provides thermal insulation.

Another low-cost option is a poultry house made using frame technology: from small-section timber, sheathed with plywood sheets, OSB, planed boards. Thermal insulation material is laid between them; its thickness depends on the climate. To protect against rodents, the insulation is covered with a metal mesh. This increases costs, but subsequently removing rodents is even more expensive. During construction, it is better to follow the rules for constructing frame houses.

In winter, it is mandatory to regulate the humidity level in the chicken coop, which is ensured by installing ventilation.

Video: fully autonomous warm poultry house on stilts (with bottom rung)

Material selection

The best option for a warm poultry house is wood. During frame construction, the timber is covered with dense rows of OSB sheets, hiding the cracks. When construction is carried out using brick or cinder block, good thermal insulation is necessary, since brick has high level thermal conductivity. What material will be used for the chicken coop depends on preferences and financial capabilities.

An insufficiently insulated roof will become a source of heat loss and increased humidity in the room, and the cost of heating the chicken coop will increase. For insulation, it is recommended to line the inside with foam plastic or felt. A permanent roof is made over the winter walking area - a continuation of the roof of the chicken coop itself.

For the winter period, it is preferable to have a chicken coop with a gable roof so that snow does not accumulate on it.

Wood is often used in the construction of poultry house walls due to its environmental friendliness and low thermal conductivity. Even if the frame is erected from metal, it is better to use plank cladding.

The metal frame is always sheathed with wood so that the desired temperature balance is maintained indoors in winter.

To facilitate constant cleaning inside the chicken coop, its floor is made by pouring concrete. The service life of such a floor is long, but it requires good thermal insulation so that the birds do not freeze. In winter, the wooden floor is additionally treated with special moisture-resistant compounds, and the top is covered with a thick layer of straw and hay bedding.

The floor in the chicken coop can be made of concrete, but be sure to cover it with a thick layer of straw

To give the entire structure of the chicken coop rigidity and strength, to avoid distortions of the walls and the appearance of gaps, as well as to raise the walls themselves above the ground, a light strip foundation is used. This also helps keep you warm in winter.

The following materials are used to build a main wall:

1. Shell rock is a porous limestone of natural origin with a low level of thermal conductivity. Most suitable for building a chicken coop for 25–30 birds. Standard size the block is 18x18x38 cm. It is laid using the technology of laying foam blocks or cinder blocks.

   Walls made of shell rock are erected quickly and retain heat well

2. Foam concrete is a common material that is harmless to health. There are no restrictions on the size of the building. The optimal material for wall construction is D400 foam concrete, the block size of which is 20x30x60 centimeters. The thickness of the masonry is determined by the climate of the area.

   You can build a chicken coop from foam concrete very quickly, following masonry technology

3. Brick is a building material with a low level of thermal conductivity and is durable. It is optimal to build large chicken coops from brick. The brick can be either solid or hollow.

   The brick walls of the chicken coop can be lined with boards from the inside

Taking into account the service life of the chicken coop, the material from which the walls will be built is determined. For the beginner poultry farmer best choice there will be wood and plywood. Over time, you can dismantle the structure or, conversely, add additional space. But if you are breeding a large number of poultry and building a chicken coop for a long time, then it is better to choose brick or foam concrete. You will also definitely need thermal insulation - foam sheets, mineral wool rolls or other modern material.

For the purpose of thermal insulation of the structure, natural insulating materials are also used: the walls are insulated with straw and hay, and the floor and ceiling are insulated with coarse expanded clay. There is only one negative side to the use of such insulation in comparison with modern materials- these insulation materials have high thermal conductivity, which requires their use in large quantities. And this is difficult when building a poultry house.

Detailed characteristics of modern building materials for thermal insulation:

1. Polystyrene foam is a material with good insulating properties. Has a cellular structure. Thermal conductivity is only 0.047 W/mK, which is lower than that of foam concrete, brick and wool. Sold in sheets of different sizes. Easy to attach. Main disadvantage- susceptible to damage by rodents. To solve this problem, the foam is sheathed with sheets of plywood or OSB.

   Polystyrene foam has good thermal insulation characteristics and is often used as wall insulation

2. Mineral wool - has heat and sound insulation properties. It has a fibrous structure. Thermal conductivity is slightly greater than that of polystyrene foam, but it is not susceptible to damage by rodents. It is recommended to use in conjunction with waterproof and windproof film.

   Mineral wool is resistant to damage by rodents, but absorbs moisture from the environment

3. Extruded polystyrene foam is a material with a closed cellular structure, produced by polystyrene foaming. It has a long service life and excellent insulating characteristics. Its properties surpass almost all existing thermal insulation materials.

   Expanded polystyrene has a long service life, but if used indoors for a long time, it causes harm to health through the respiratory system

4. Stizol is a foamed polyethylene. It has high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties, is not susceptible to moisture, and is durable. Produced on the basis of metallized film, foil or non-woven fabric. The optimal thickness for use is about 1 mm.

   Stizol is used in construction as sheet insulation.

When choosing insulation, it is important to consider how much area it will cover. If the structure is small, use stizol or any polyethylene foam material. For structures accommodating 50 or more birds, it is advisable to combine materials: if the wall is insulated with expanded polystyrene, then the floors are insulated with expanded clay. And when minimal construction costs are required, polystyrene foam and mineral wool are used.

When creating a project to build a chicken coop, you need to determine in what place the insulation will be installed: if it is planned as interior decoration, then when making calculations you need to increase the overall dimensions of the structure by the thickness of the material being laid.

Video: warm chicken coop with your own hands in 4 days

Preparatory work

The width of the foundation being laid should slightly exceed the thickness of the future wall. In this case, the wall is installed exactly in the center of the foundation. A concrete foundation will additionally provide thermal insulation and provide protection from:

• exposure to moisture on wooden structural elements, increasing the service life of the building;
• access to the chicken coop for predators and rodents, which can easily dig a hole underground.

There are other possible ways to protect against uninvited predators getting inside:

• make a foundation up to 30 cm high;
• place the structure on concrete pillars, raising the floor to a height of 25 cm from the ground;
• cover the walls with metal sheets, burying one edge of the sheet to a depth of 35 cm.

On the schematic image of the chicken coop you need to indicate the location of all parts of the building and internal equipment

During construction, it is imperative to install several windows on the south side of the chicken coop for natural light. But they should not be a source of draft.

Since in winter, chickens try to be as close to each other as possible, their placement is organized based on the rule: 1 m2 - for 4–7 individuals. If a meat breed is raised: 1 m 2 - for 3 individuals. For laying hens: 2.5 m2 - for 10 individuals. The height of the room is no more than 1.8 m.

The size of the chicken coop depends on the number of birds

To build a warm chicken coop yourself, you will need the following:

• poultry house design with precise drawings and dimensions;
• building materials for installing formwork and pouring the foundation;
• plumbing and construction tools;
• building materials for the construction of a bird house.

Video: tricks in building and arranging a winter chicken coop

Making your own chicken coop: step-by-step instructions

At the very beginning of construction, markings are made for the foundation (base) of the chicken coop using wooden pegs and a rope stretched between them. The foundation of the fencing of the walking area is carried out at the same time as the foundation of the chicken coop.

Base

Sequence of work:

1. A trench is dug for the foundation. The structure of the chicken coop does not have much mass, so the foundation is made of strip or columnar to a depth of no more than 45 cm. However, the use of a columnar foundation will lead to high costs for thermal insulation of floors.
   

   The foundation for a chicken coop can be strip or columnar.

2. First, crushed stone and then sand are poured and compacted at the bottom of the trench, creating a so-called cushion (the thickness of the total layer should not exceed 5–10 cm).
3. The formwork is being installed for pouring the foundation. The height of the formwork is equal to the height of the foundation. The upper edge of the formwork serves to level the poured concrete.

   The foundation must be made according to all the rules so that it does not warp or crack after drying.

4. Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork and tied at the corners with steel wire.
5. Concrete is poured into the formwork, leveled over the surface until cement laitance forms and covered with film. It needs to be watered daily for a week to prevent cracks from appearing.

After 20–28 days, when the foundation has gained the required strength, you can begin constructing the chicken coop structure. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the foundation to protect the structure from moisture.

Floor

From the place above which the floor of the chicken coop will be located, the top layer of soil is removed, then sand is poured there and compacted, and a layer of expanded clay is laid as insulation. A mesh is rolled out over the expanded clay and a screed is made using cement mortar. The thickness of the floor screed should be at least 2 cm. For several days, while the screed hardens, you need to water it with water. It is recommended to make the screed with a slope of several degrees, which will ensure free flow of water when cleaning inside the chicken coop.

For comfortable living of chickens, the floors in the chicken coop are covered with boards.

The arrangement of the walking area is carried out in different ways: either it is poured with concrete or covered with boards.

Sawdust, straw, and hay are used as bedding. Usually, during the cold period, the litter does not change, and each time a new dry layer is poured on top of it. This results in natural heating of the floor due to warm droppings mixed with dry bedding.

Another option for arranging a walking area is to preserve the natural soil, which will allow the bird to look for insects, seeds and stones in the future.

You need to think in advance what kind of floor there will be in the bird walking area.

Frame

The sequence of work is as follows:

Roof

A sheathing made of unedged boards or sheets of plywood is nailed to the rafters. A special vapor barrier film or polyethylene is laid and secured along the sheathing. The film is spread in overlapping layers, and the seams are sealed with adhesive tape. Thermal insulation material (mineral wool board) is laid on it, and covered with waterproofing on top.

Most often, the roof of a chicken coop is made pitched due to the simplicity of its construction.

Next, through the waterproofing, transverse strips are nailed to the rafters with the required spacing, which depends on the type and size of the roofing material. If a soft roof is used, then plywood or OSB sheets must be laid on top of the slats, along which roofing material spreads. If slate is used, then wood cladding is not needed.

After completion of the roofing work, the frame and internal wall cladding are insulated.

Insulation of walls and floors

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Polyurethane foam is also sometimes used as a thermal insulation material. But for its installation, specialists with equipment are involved, with the help of which this insulation is applied to the surface of the walls. The use of polyurethane foam is expensive, but the application process is not labor-intensive and provides maximum protection from the cold.

You can sheathe the outside of a winter chicken coop with edged boards or other facade material, except plastic, since it does not tolerate severe frosts well.

A concrete floor, even with an expanded clay cushion, does not ensure heat retention inside the chicken coop in winter. For this purpose, the floors are additionally insulated.

You can lay infrared film on the floor and use a cement mortar screed on it. This heating system operates both periodically and regularly, ensuring the desired temperature in the chicken coop. Or you can use a less expensive option: cover the floor with wooden panels. These shields are boards tightly fitted to each other, attached to the joists. In winter, plant litter up to 15 cm thick is laid on them to increase floor insulation, and in summer they are removed from the chicken coop, cleaned and disinfected.

The arrangement of the chicken coop should be such that the birds are comfortable both in winter and in summer.

Sometimes electric heating devices are placed on the walls inside the chicken coop, and the installation sites are protected with heat-resistant material. But more often infrared lamps are suspended from the ceiling.

Lighting

The design of the poultry house must have windows. Despite the fact that they are a source of heat loss, their presence cannot be abandoned, since the supply of sunlight is required to maintain the health of the birds. Therefore, triple glazing is built into the windows, and a mesh is installed on the glass for the safety of birds.

In winter, it is imperative to ensure that the daylight hours are at least 14 hours. This is done with the help of artificial lighting. And when installing an automatic on/off system, you get rid of the unnecessary hassle of maintenance, although you will spend additional money on it.

Lighting devices can serve as heating, but must be safe for birds

At first, individual individuals will roost for the night directly on the floor. This is not dangerous if the floor is insulated and covered with shavings or hay. Over time, the birds will get used to it and, at nightfall, will begin to move to their roost. But you can do it differently: wake up the birds early in the morning, turning on the lighting for this, and allow them to fall asleep at sunset.

Ventilation

In a warm chicken coop, a ventilation device is required to remove excess moisture. To do this, a piece of plastic pipeline is installed in the ceiling, which rises 1 meter above the roof. This way ventilation will be carried out naturally due to the existing pressure difference. If the air flow is weak, then an additional channel is made at the floor level (far from the nests), which must be covered with a grille. And the damper installed on it will allow you to regulate the ventilation speed. You can also install an electric fan in the wall.

The ideal humidity level is 65%. A decrease or increase in this indicator negatively affects the activity and health of the bird. To increase humidity, it is enough to install a container with water, and to reduce it, install a hood and hang an infrared lamp: it dries surfaces well.

The chicken coop must be equipped with ventilation so that the birds do not get cold from rising humidity.

Making perches

The perch is made of timber with a cross-section of approximately 4x4 cm or 6x4 cm.

All corners are ground into a rounded shape, and the surface is cleaned to a smooth state so that the birds do not injure their paws. You can also use a tree branch as a perch.

If several perches are installed, then the distance between adjacent planks should be about 30 cm in width and 20 cm in height. For convenience, a small ladder is attached to the lower perch.

Perches are mounted either between two walls, or in the form of a ladder installed across the room

To install perches, you must:

1. Determine the location and height of the perch - attach one or more planks near the window at a height of 0.5–0.7 m from the floor level.
2. Measure the width of the chicken coop and cut it required amount timber.
3. On opposite walls, nail 0.5 m pieces of board with cut grooves for perches.
4. Place perches in the grooves and secure with self-tapping screws.

Nests for laying eggs are made in the form of a semi-open box assembled from timber, boards or plywood. And sometimes ready-made plastic boxes are used as nests. If the nests rise to a certain height, then they are mounted on supports.

A ladder is provided to the nests for ease of movement of birds.

Video: do-it-yourself warm chicken coop

Tips for setting up a chicken coop in cellars or basements

There are some features of arranging a chicken coop in the basement:

1. Use of bedding - sawdust or hay is used. The sawdust bedding is replaced once every 6–7 days, and the hay bedding – once every 3–4 days.
2. Lighting - an electric lamp with LEDs with a power of more than 5 W is mounted. Using a lamp, the required length of daylight hours is ensured: the longer it is, the more chickens will lay eggs.
3. Insulation - use cotton wool or any roll insulation with a thickness of at least 5 cm. The use of a waterproofing film is mandatory.
4. Ventilation - intake and exhaust ducts are installed. Direct ventilation of the premises is carried out periodically.
5. Internal arrangement - the nests are made of timber covered with plywood. One nest is used for several chickens and is approximately 40x40 cm. The perches are attached at a height of at least 50 centimeters. It is allowed to connect the perch and nest by placing a board between them.

There are certain rules for arranging a winter chicken coop that must be followed.

Care after winter: how to treat walls

Sanitation of the poultry house is carried out annually with the onset of warm weather. This prevents the spread of infectious diseases among chickens.

During disinfection the following is carried out:

1. Cleaning - all surfaces of the walls, ceiling, floor, perches and nests are cleaned of dirt with a stiff brush and broom, and then washed with a solution of soda ash in hot water.
2. Surface treatment - special means are used (two percent solution of caustic soda or four percent xylonaftha emulsion). When preparing solutions, you must strictly adhere to the recipe and be sure to use personal protective equipment.

After treatment, allow the chicken coop to dry completely for 5-6 hours, thoroughly ventilating the room.

There is always an opportunity to work on decorating the chicken coop

Construction of a chicken coop is a simple task and can be completely solved independently, without involving the services of third-party specialists. You just need to study it well these instructions, and also read the advice of other people involved in poultry breeding.

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