Ceramics repair. Getting rid of cracks. Return of the blue cup: restoration of porcelain Ceramic tableware cracks how to repair

Cracks are the most annoying thing in ceramics and can frustrate all novice ceramists, but just a little education is enough to make your ceramic path much easier. In this article we will talk about cracks that form in dry products before the first firing during drying.

Where? Why me?

  • First of all, cracks can form due to uneven wall thickness of the product. If the bottom is 2 times thicker than the walls, tension is created in the shard due to the fact that one part of the product dries faster than the other and a crack forms, which is very difficult to deal with.
  • Fast/improper drying. If you put the product to dry in a warm place near the stove or in a draft, the product is likely to crack. How to set up the right place for drying.
  • Poorly attached parts. Handles, noses and grips that are not additionally reinforced with clay crack very often, so line each part with a sausage of clay, which needs to be thoroughly smeared.
  • Poor/inappropriate mass. Clays can be fatty or thin. Clays with high plasticity are called “fat.” When soaked, dough made from such clay gives the tactile sensation of a fatty substance: shiny, slippery and practically free of impurities. In this case, so-called “lean” substances are added to solutions made from such clay: “lean” clay, sand or fireclay chips. But the opposite situation also happens - the product cracks due to the clay being too “thin”. This material is non-plastic or low-plastic, rough to the touch, has a matte surface and crumbles easily even with simple finger pressure. In this case, it is necessary to add fatter clay to the “lean” clay or use other additives that increase the fat content of the solution, for example, feldspar or glycerin.
  • While sculpting you add too much water. The surface of the product is often covered with a network of small cracks if it is watered abundantly during sculpting. Wipe the product thoroughly with a sponge before drying, both after hand modeling and after using the pottery wheel.

How to avoid cracks in ceramics?
If you follow all the “safety rules” when molding the product, such as: make the walls uniform in thickness, check that the bottom of the product is not heavy, lubricate the parts well, strengthen the handles, and do not add a lot of water when sculpting. It is also important to pay very close attention to drying, equip a good place, carefully monitor each product and “don’t rush” it, then everything should be fine.

What to do if a crack does appear in the product?
Assess the scale of the situation. If it's a small crack on a huge piece that you've been poring over for a week, then you can fight for it. If you are just learning and a huge crater appears on your first, second or third student plate (yes, we know that they are the most beautiful), then leave it, spend this clay and time on something more perfect and gratefully accept the experience.

How to fight?
If you decide to declare war on the crack, we have the recipe. According to intuition, the first thing all beginners do is take water and begin to cover the wounded area with it, so, I’ll get ahead of you: under no circumstances should you do this. Because of the water, the clay swells and increases in volume, you will already think that you got rid of the crack by covering it up, but that was not the case, it will not be slow to return with renewed vigor when the clay dries and shrinks. What should we do then?

  • Soak the crack with vinegar. Clay is softened by vinegar, but does not absorb much moisture.
  • You need to scratch the area of ​​the crack and around it with a pick or a pottery needle in different directions.
  • Fill the crack with a special composition: 1 part dry clay (with which you are working): 1 part kaolin. And smooth out the place with a “kidney” or a plastic card. You can add alumina or small pieces of toilet paper to the healing mixture.

But it’s worth considering that sometimes it happens that you did everything right, but still something went wrong and a crack appeared. Well, ceramics are always not only in our hands, but also in the hands of the ceramic gods, we should not forget about this. Never be upset by failures, because they give us the most valuable thing in our business - experience.

Happy firing to you,
Always yours
"Terracotta Ceramics"

Every home has a piece of ceramic or porcelain. How often does it happen that dishes break? It can be a crystal glass, a porcelain cup, a ceramic plate, or an ordinary ceramic figurine. And, despite the fact that ceramic dishes are strong, they still break. If expensive dishes were broken, then after repair you should treat the bonding areas with special dyes, or some experts advise using liquid glass. After drying, carefully cut off the remains so as not to touch the part where the repair was made.

The best way to glue ceramics and porcelain

I would like to extend the life of ceramics. It is not only used for its intended purpose, but also decorates the interior with its originality and uniqueness. It’s hard to say which is better ceramics or porcelain in terms of quality and durability, it all depends on various factors.

How to glue porcelain and ceramics? Which glue for porcelain and ceramics should I choose? Or maybe throw away the broken product? Should I throw away the broken vase or not? If not, how to glue a ceramic vase?

Don't rush to throw it away. You can always throw it away. First you need to try to glue the product, and if nothing works, then you can throw it away. Throwing it away is the last thing left to do.

How to glue ceramics

Various adhesives are used to repair ceramics. There are a huge variety of products available on the market for repairing ceramic cookware.

Universal super-glue based on cyanocrylate is the optimal adhesive for ceramics, which can be easily found in any specialized store.

The following Russian-made adhesives for repairing ceramic tableware are offered for sale: “Second”, “Super-moment”, “Cyanopan”, “Glue”, “Sila”, “Monolith”, “Elephant”. There are also imported adhesives for gluing. The best waterproof glue for ceramics is MARS.

For ceramics that are used to store food, you can use PVA glue for gluing. But, it is recommended that after gluing the ceramic cup is covered with a layer of varnish. For gluing ceramic products, you can use epoxy glue, F-2 and BF-4 adhesives.

How to glue porcelain

The following range of adhesives for porcelain is offered for sale – STANGE, “cosmofen ca-12”, you can also use “RAPID”. Among Russian-made adhesives, carbinol glue should be noted. Also, instead of glue for repairing porcelain, you can use epoxy resin EPOXY GLUE produced by BONDO, BIZON or similar adhesives.

To glue porcelain, you can use cement made from gypsum. To do this, add the white of 1 egg to the gypsum powder and mix very well. The resulting glue can be used to glue porcelain. Moreover, the gluing procedure should be performed very quickly, because this glue hardens quickly.

For gluing, you can make other glue at home. To do this, mix 1 egg white and soda. Beat Belov into foam, without adding soda. The whipped white should sit for one day, and only then add soda to the settled white and mix. You should add enough soda to get a mass similar in consistency to regular dough.

To do this you should:

  1. Take 1 liter of water. Add 100 g to water. Sugar, 100 gr. lime (necessarily slaked). Place the resulting mixture on the fire and cook over low heat for about 3-3.5 hours. The main thing when “cooking” is that it does not boil.
  2. Cool the resulting broth and let it sit for a few more hours.
  3. The water that remains after settling must be drained.
  4. Add 0.5 kg to the mixture. tile adhesive. Mix well and leave to settle again for 10-15 hours.
  5. If there is excess water, it must be drained. Boil the resulting mass one more time.
  6. Cool. Porcelain glue is ready.

This adhesive for food utensils is ideal.

Universal adhesives for both materials

There are a huge number of universal adhesives. These are adhesives that can be used to glue both porcelain and ceramics - casein glue, epoxy adhesives. The most popular is Porcelan Potch glue. Edible glue is often suitable for gluing both ceramics and porcelain. For example, the recipe described above can be used as an adhesive for ceramics and porcelain.

How to glue porcelain

Gluing porcelain at home with glue is quite simple; for this you can use food grade porcelain glue. If you use one of the following adhesives for gluing - “Rapid”, “AGO”, “Kittifix” and “Mekol”, then you should perform the following steps:

  • Wash and dry surfaces for gluing;
  • Wipe with acetone;
  • Apply one layer of glue to the gluing areas and immediately glue the parts together, pressing tightly.
  • You can fasten it with a tourniquet for strength.

Cups also break very often. And I want to give a second life to my favorite cup. The following shows how to glue a porcelain cup together. Since the gluing algorithm is similar to the previous algorithm, but there are some differences:

  1. For gluing, craftsmen advise using super glue.
  2. Prepare surfaces for gluing - wash, dry and wipe with acetone. If the part breaks in the same place, remove any remaining glue.
  3. Gather the parts in advance.
  4. The process of applying glue is the same. Glued in two layers.
  5. Then the glued product should be placed, if they are not large, they should be placed in a saucepan or cauldron, filled with warm water and put on fire. Boil water over low heat for 2-3 hours. The product is left to cool in water. And only then, when the water has cooled, is it removed.
  6. If it is not possible to “boil” the product, then you can “warm it up” in the oven, or hold it over an electric stove (but in this case, the “warming up” procedure must be performed very carefully so as not to overheat the product and not get burned).

It may happen that a crack has formed in a vase or cup, or a fragment has fallen off, and a small hole has broken off.

Then the gluing algorithm is as follows:

  1. The preparation for gluing is the same.
  2. First you need to cut out a patch, the size of which should be 0.5 - 1.5 cm larger. You can use super glue for ceramics; natural glue is also suitable for gluing a patch.
  3. Be sure to take a waterproof one for repairs.
  4. Pour water into the product, but start the patch, but so that the water does not come into contact with the patch.
  5. Then boil the water for 2-3 hours.
  6. Cool everything. And pour out the water.
  7. If necessary, treat the gluing area with paint.

Repair of porcelain figurines is carried out in a similar way. But after the figurine has dried, it is recommended to cover it with several layers of varnish for greater durability. Each subsequent layer of varnish can be applied only when the previous layer of varnish has already dried well. After varnishing, the figurine will be a little heavier and will not be as fragile.

How to glue ceramics

Gluing ceramics at home is quite simple. You just need to follow these rules:

  1. We start by collecting all the parts that need to be glued together. If you need to glue a previously repaired cup or vase, then remove the remaining glue with a knife. And when everything is removed from the surface, you can move on to the next step.
  2. Wash all assembled parts thoroughly in warm water. For washing, you can use dishwashing detergent. Then rinse and let drain. It is not recommended to wipe, so as not to cut yourself with sharp edges or break something from the edges of the part.
  3. We hide all the details before gluing, so that we know in advance what to glue where.
  4. We treat the gluing areas with acetone.
  5. Apply an even thin layer of glue to the gluing areas. To apply the glue, you can use either a thin brush or an ear cleaning stick.
  6. Just leave the first layer of glue to dry.
  7. Then apply a second layer of glue. And press down the parts that need to be glued. Let's keep the details for a few minutes. Then remove the residue with a cloth.
  8. It is advisable to glue the other part after some time, so that the previous parts stick well.
  9. After the product is glued, it is advisable to fix it. And in this way everything will grasp not only correctly, but also well.
  10. A part is considered well repaired if it has been standing for 1-3 days (depending on the repair performed).

Since broken parts are, after all, glass, it is recommended to wear rubber gloves during repairs in order to protect your hands from minor cuts and wounds in advance.

When gluing, if necessary, you can and should use tweezers, for example, to work with small parts.

Repairing porcelain and ceramics is very easy to do according to the algorithm described above.

Do not forget that all repaired products are no longer advisable to be used for food. Because if, after placing sour or salty food in such a product, they begin to release harmful substances, which are contained in the glue. And this is very harmful to health.

As a result, you know how to glue ceramics, how to glue ceramic dishes, and how to glue porcelain. Which glue to choose or prepare the glue yourself.

Ceramic products are popular in all corners of the planet. High quality and aesthetic appearance is the key to such success. Like any other material, ceramic defects may occur. It is important to know how to determine the presence of a defect and, if possible, get rid of it.

Why does marriage occur?

The reasons why certain defects in finished dishes arise can be divided into three groups. The error occurs at various stages of processing: shard formation, glazing, decoration.

Defects at the procurement stage

The basis of ceramic utensils is a mixture of clay (kaolin) and impurities. The preparation of the clay mass is followed by the formation of the object. The main errors that occur at the primary stage are expressed in:

  • Deformations, which in most cases can be seen with the naked eye.
  • Bubbles. “Pimples” are a consequence of a chemical reaction during the hardening of the shard. The gas is released later than necessary, forming cavities under the burned layer.
  • Potholes on the bottom and/or edges of the product.
  • Incorrect attachment of functional parts (handles, spout, etc.)
  • The mark that remains from other dishes in contact during the hardening of clay.
  • Changes in the transparency of porcelain and the whiteness of the workpiece.

Defects when glazing the product

Products with defective glazing are more common, since it is quite difficult to find small flaws. To purchase quality cookware, you should pay attention to:

    Cracks under the glaze layer indicate violations during drying and firing. Weak points are areas where arms and legs are attached. A defect reduces the service life of the product and makes it unhygienic.

    Enamel chipping occurs when a poor-quality coating composition is used or when the rules for storing and transporting goods are not followed.

    Seals on the surface of the product are visible at the edges. Such a glaze defect does not reduce the characteristics of the product, but it does affect the appearance.

    In pottery there is a word "tsek" - thin hair-like cracks in ceramics. Dishes with such a change are not hygienic and often do not last long. Due to the leakage of the enamel, moisture is absorbed into the clay composition, accelerating the destruction of the product. Products made from earthenware and majolica are more often subjected to the process.

    Detachment of the edge of a pot occurs when the shard and glaze expand unevenly during firing. Bald spots are formed when the workpiece is not sufficiently cleaned of dirt before applying enamel.

Chips, discoloration, cracks in ceramic dishes and many other defects that occur in the early stages do not have a favorable effect on the quality, hygiene and service life of the product.

Decor defects

Flaws appearance do not affect the operation process. Decor defects include scratches, paint blisters, fading, blots and other defects.

Repair of defective ceramics

You can repair a broken or defective item yourself. Depending on the specific defect, restoration occurs by:

1. Gluing broken parts of an object.

2. Filling chips and cracks in ceramic dishes.

Repairing ceramics with your own hands is a painstaking task that requires care and precision. In order to repair a broken product, you need to decide what glue to use. One option is to purchase a special mixture in the store for gluing porcelain and ceramics. The second way is to weld the glue composition at home.

Porcelain and ceramic products require different compositions of adhesive substances during repair. For ordinary products, super glue is used: Monolith, Super glue, Strength and others. Suitable for porcelain are STANGE, RAPID, BIZON epoxy resin, etc. A universal product is Porcelan Potch. It is not always safe to use cookware treated with chemicals if it is exposed to heat. Edible glues have a safer composition.

How to make glue at home

Ingredients: super glue or other effective one, one packet of baking powder (another powder dye), wax, palette knife.

Repair of pottery with prepared composition

  1. Using wax, secure the broken parts to the inside of the object. A wax axis should form on which to hold the fragments.
  2. Lubricate the chipped areas with glue and press them tightly together, restoring integrity.
  3. Restore broken ceramics step by step.
  4. If a part is not found, replace it with plasticine or a palette knife. Sculpt the missing object and cover it with a paste of glue and dye. If a piece is missing in the middle of the structure, rub a palette knife or plaster into the cavity.
  5. If, after assembling large parts, it turns out that a network of cracks or a small chip is visible on the ceramics, prepare the composition. It is necessary to mix baking powder and glue until a whitish color is formed. A similar technique is suitable for porcelain.
  6. Carefully distribute the mixture into the cavity.
  7. Using a hairdryer, melt the wax frame (after drying) and wash the product.

You can glue the fragments with super glue or any other glue yourself:

  • Prepare the broken dishes for work by collecting all the fragments.
  • It is necessary to wipe the edges with acetone or another degreaser.
  • Spread the glue evenly over the broken area and let it dry.
  • Re-grease the edges and secure the parts.
  • The object should not be completely formed. The process should be gradual - after gluing several fragments, they should be allowed to dry.
  • If possible and desired, the restored area can be covered with glaze.

How and with what to repair a crack in pottery

Defects in ceramic products may not always be obvious. Minor flaws are easy to miss when purchasing. Over time, cracks in the ceramic may become visible.

For restoration you will need glue and pigment to match the color of the dishes (for white, baking powder, titanium white). Mix glue and paint powder. Degrease the product with acetone. Apply the prepared paste with a cotton swab. Remove excess frosting. If necessary, use an ink eraser after drying. Cover with glaze.

Ceramic tableware must be of high quality and free from defects. It is not recommended to use the pottery if the ceramic is cracked or other glaze defects have appeared. A broken or defective, but favorite item can be restored. You can repair ceramic cookware yourself or contact a professional. And if you want to learn how to create high-quality dishes with your own hands, we suggest visiting the Kolokol pottery school.

Today it is very easy to use epoxy glue and putty to restore chips and glue broken porcelain or ceramics. You can repair a crack on your favorite vase or restore grandma's old tea set and put it back in the sideboard without anyone knowing it was damaged.

When it comes to fixing broken dishes or ceramics, gluing with superglue will not give you enough time to accurately align the shards. Therefore, it is preferable to use epoxy glue for gluing.

As with any project, the most important step When repairing broken dishes or ceramics, surface preparation is essential.

If the fragments were previously glued, remove the old glue with a cotton swab soaked in acetone (nail polish remover).

Clean the adhesive parts with a mixture of mild dishwashing liquid and warm water. Rinse the parts and let them dry completely.

Using a toothpick or paper clip, apply epoxy glue to the edge of one of the broken pieces.

Use enough glue to coat the edge of the shard's edge, applying too little glue will leave empty spaces on the surface of the edge, resulting in poor bonding, and applying too much glue will have difficulty with a tight bond and aesthetic appearance.

GOOD TO KNOW

When handling sharp pieces, wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges.

Work quickly and attach the pieces together using light pressure to squeeze out excess glue.

Avoid moving parts, small particles may fall out and destroy the repair. Use tweezers when gluing small pieces together.

If you have cookware or ceramics that is broken into more than two pieces, you need to plan how to attach each piece so you don't end up with a final piece that can't easily be put back in place.

Remove dried glue later using a sharp blade.

If the glue line is visible and this is not acceptable to you, then glass paints will be required.

Glass paints or ceramic paints come in a variety of colors, but you may need to do some mixing to get an exact color match.

NOTE: Epoxy glue contains toxic materials that can leach into food, especially when the food contains salts and acids. Unfortunately, any utensils or ceramics that have been glued together are not suitable as food utensils and are not safe.

Apr 12, 2015 tigress...s

yuli_keramika in Ceramics repair. Getting rid of cracks.

Cracks in unfired ceramics are one of the common troubles that happen to beginning ceramists, although no one is immune from their occurrence.
Remember that clay shrinks during the drying process. That's why rule number 1 :Do not add water or soft clay to the crack! The water will cause the clay to expand and you will think you have repaired the crack, but you haven't. When the product dries, the clay will shrink and the crack will only get worse. If a crack appears on your product, show it to your teacher and discuss the possibilities of fixing it. Try to find out why the crack appeared. Perhaps you added soft clay to hard clay, causing the soft clay to dry out and shrink more? Have you pressed the joint well? Was the joint too thick?

So, how to get rid of cracks in dried ceramics?

Method 1. Grouting with dry clay

If a small crack appears in a dry product and it is not clear that the crack appeared due to deforming force, the most in a simple way repair will simply be to rub some dry crushed clay into the crack before firing. This will not bind the clay, but after firing, the product can be covered with liquid glaze and the cracks will not be visible.

Method 2. Sugar clay

To fill a wide crack in a nearly dry piece, use a small amount of clay that has dried and crumbled. Add the same amount of powdered sugar and mix with your fingers. Sugar will soften the clay and give it plasticity. Clean out the crack, moisten the edges of the crack with a little vinegar and add sugar clay. Good powdered sugar imparts more plasticity than water, and when dried, sugar clay will shrink much less than wet clay.

Method 3. Vinegar

If you have a small part of your piece broken off and the break line is straight, try vinegar. Apply a small amount of vinegar to the break and press it together. The idea is that the vinegar softens the clay without absorbing too much water.

Method 4. Paper clay

This method is suitable for large cracks in an almost dry product. It can be used instead sugar clay, if you do not plan to cover this product with glaze in the future. Place a small amount of toilet paper in a jar, add hot water and blend with a blender until homogeneous mass. Drain off excess water. Mix the dry clay with a blender in another jar. Mix 2/3 clay mass and 1/3 paper mass. It may be necessary to dry the resulting mixture on a plaster board. Clean out the crack, moisten the edges with vinegar and fill with paper clay. Use this dry paper clay for cracks and liquid paper clay for joining joints.