What to do after working with the soil. Autumn work in a greenhouse: an overview of a set of seasonal care activities. Loosening as an alternative to digging

In a wooden or frame house, the floors of the first floor are usually made on wooden joists. Wooden floor joists rest on the ground or the ends of the joists (beams) hang on the walls of the foundation or basement of the house.

Wooden floors on the first floor are less durable, afraid of moisture, and not resistant to mechanical stress, have low sound insulation ability. It is difficult to create a full-fledged heated floor on such floors. There are problems when installing floors in wet areas of a wooden or frame house - a bathroom, boiler room, etc.

The installation of a reinforced concrete basement floor is beneficial only for a house with a basement.

For a private house without a basement, the most advantageous floor design for the first floor is to install a concrete floor on the ground. When choosing such a design for wooden and frame houses, there is a prejudice that the proximity of the soil to the lower crowns and beams of wooden walls, the lack of sufficient ventilation in these units will contribute to the accumulation of moisture and rotting of wooden parts.

For the reason stated above, developers who are building a house for themselves experience certain difficulties when choosing the design of the junction of the floor on the ground, with the foundation (plinth) and the wooden walls of the house.

The figure below suggests an option for installing a concrete floor on the ground for a wooden (log, timber) or frame house.

A wooden or frame house with concrete floors on the ground. The foundation of the house is shallow, protecting the heaving soil from freezing

Here the designers tried to make the unit as open and ventilated as possible. In addition, in the area of ​​contact between the wood and the plinth, a thermal regime is ensured that prevents the formation of condensation in this area.

A shallow, thermally insulated foundation was chosen for the house. Thermal insulation protects the soil under the foundation from freezing. As a result, the foundation is not affected by the forces of frost heaving of the soil.

The foundation is strip made of monolithic concrete. A brick plinth is installed between the foundation strip and the wall of the house.

The use of brick for the construction of the plinth is due to two reasons:

• Brick has a lower thermal conductivity compared to concrete.
• The base has a thermal insert made of extruded polystyrene foam. Laying with a liner is easier and more convenient than embedding it in concrete.

To protect the soil at the base of the foundation from freezing, vertical and horizontal thermal insulation is used. Distinctive feature The main point is that the layers of thermal insulation are located from the inside and under the foundation strip. The thermal insulation dimensions shown in the figure are selected for the climate conditions of the Moscow region.

The figure below shows a heat map of this node, which shows the distribution of temperatures in the soil thickness and in the structures of the house in the design mode.

How to make a concrete floor on the ground can be found in another article - concrete floor on the ground in a private house. Next article:

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domekonom.su

How to pour concrete floors in a wooden house

Most professional builders agree that the greatest reliability and durability are typical for floors made of concrete. The material has a perfectly flat surface and the necessary strength for laying any type of finishing coating. In this material we will look at how to make a concrete floor in wooden house, and we will also touch on other structures.

In the photo - making a concrete floor in a wooden house

Tip: if you fill the floor with concrete in wooden houses, this will increase its mechanical stability.

Such work is not particularly complicated, so almost anyone who does not have special skills can do it with their own hands. However, a concrete floor also has a significant drawback - it is cold. But this problem can be solved quite simply - with heat-insulating materials, the use of which allows one to correct this drawback.

Advice: if you forgot to make a technological channel in the foundation or concrete floor, a service will help you - diamond drilling of holes in concrete using special equipment.

What is required for work

Pouring the floor with concrete in a wooden house will require you to have certain materials, which you need to acquire in advance.

These tools include:

• level - in order to achieve a perfectly flat surface, then you don’t need to think too much about how to cover the concrete floor in the house, since all materials will fit perfectly;
• rule - with its help, the solution is distributed evenly over the entire surface;
• Master OK;
• wooden slats;
• poluter - also used to obtain a flat surface;
• a concrete mixture containing water, cement, crushed stone and sand.

Floor installation in a house made of aerated concrete and wood

Preparatory stage

To obtain a truly high-quality concrete floor in a private wooden house, the entire process must be carried out using a certain technology. Most often, logs made of wide beams can be seen as a rough layer.

They can be laid directly on the ground, on compacted sand, or on specially prepared brick pillars. Then there is a layer of skull boards, on top of which the flooring is laid.

As you know, boards are not the most durable material. Therefore, after a certain period of operation, they begin to deform slightly, which leads to the appearance of characteristic creaks. In addition, the wood rots, reducing the service life of the floorboards.

Advice: when the floors begin to seriously creak or rot, they definitely need to be replaced.

For wooden houses there are many in various ways, thanks to which you can install new flooring. By far, concrete is the most efficient of all.

We disassemble the old coating

You can replace a wooden covering with a concrete one without any special skills. The preparation process consists of the following stages:

Laying P/E film

Tip: when laying thermal insulation film, it is necessary to make overlaps along the edges of the walls with a length of 100-150 mm.

Do not forget also that it is necessary to ensure that the base of the existing floors in the house coincides with the new one.

Tip: thanks to this thermal insulation, you have the opportunity to vary the overall thickness of the floor.

Reinforcement process

In cases where, after all the above actions, parts of the beams remain on the surface, you should bend the figures of the required shape from the metal rods. The beams will be hidden under them. For the remaining surface, a reinforcing mesh is used.

Expanded clay with reinforcing mesh

All reinforcement elements that will subsequently be installed on the floor surface must be raised by 30-50 mm. For this, supports made of wood or metal are used. It is very important that all reinforcing elements are located inside the layer and do not touch anywhere with the underlying floor.

Tip: after reinforcement, the floor will receive additional strength, which not every tool can cope with. If you ever have to dismantle it, cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels will help.

Pouring concrete floors

1. The work should take no more than a day, so you should acquire all the necessary tools and materials in advance.
2. All communications that will be located under the concrete floor must be carefully insulated. To do this, prepare special gutters that will protect them from mechanical stress.

Warm concrete floor in aerated concrete house

Advice: large buildings can be filled in parts, rather than as a solid monolith.

For separation, wooden thresholds are used, which can be used even after pouring, or simply removed (after a day). Seal the resulting seams with mortar.

Below is a short but succinct instruction:

1. Mix high-quality concrete mortar. It should have a homogeneous composition and be thick, without lumps.
2. Start pouring from the wall located opposite the door. This is done in order to avoid walking on the floor that has not yet dried.

Leveling the surface along the guides

1. After filling the entire area, level the surface using a rule or spatula. This process is very important, since almost any modern finishing floor covering requires a perfectly level base.
2. In the first few days after pouring, the floor needs periodic wetting. Be sure to cover it with plastic wrap to speed up the drying process, which depends on the final thickness of the coating and can take up to 3 weeks. The indicator will be a change in the color of the coating to light gray, in addition, it will become much harder.

Screed device

1. The last stage of installation is the screed.

This process also requires phased implementation, and its essence is:

• giving the surface ideal evenness;
• increasing the strength characteristics of the floor;
• formation of slopes on floors;
• improving thermal properties.

Remember that using a concrete floor will significantly increase the weight of the house. Therefore, before installing it, it is necessary to make sure that the installed foundation is able to withstand such loads.

Advice: you should not pour concrete on the floor in a new wooden house, because... Shrinkage will occur over time, which can lead to cracks.

Main advantages

Concrete flooring is well suited for use in wooden houses, and also has several significant advantages:

• environmental friendliness, which allows you to pour it in any room;
• absence of dust during the operational process;
• fire safety;
• resistance to aggressive environments and water;
• thanks to the monolithic design, various microorganisms will not be able to get inside;
• long operational period (at least 20-30 years).

Conclusion

This article described in detail how to pour a concrete floor in a wooden house and what nuances should be taken into account. This surface has enough advantages over others, due to which it is recommended to be used in various buildings, of course, in compliance with the technologies for different objects.

The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.

masterabetona.ru

Concrete floor in a wooden house: technology of arrangement on the ground and on beams

All photos from the article

This article is about how to make a concrete floor in a wooden house. In it we will analyze two fundamentally different schemes - pouring the floor on the ground base in the first or basement floor and organizing the screed on wooden beams. So let's get started.

Laying screed in a frame structure.

Ground screed

The first or basement floor of a private house usually houses a bathroom, boiler room, kitchen and some other rooms in which wooden flooring is undesirable. The owner’s desire to replace it with stronger, more durable and non-combustible concrete is understandable. How to do it?

Concrete floor pie on the ground.

Soil preparation

After dismantling the flooring and joists (if, of course, they are present initially), the following operations are performed:

• The soil of the former underground floor is leveled.

Please note: the total thickness of the insulated screed with bedding will be at least 30 centimeters. It is quite possible that the subfloor will have to be deepened a little so as not to reduce the final height of the room.

• The ground is backfilled with sand or sand gravel to a depth of approximately 10 centimeters.
• The backfill of the wooden floor is leveled and carefully compacted.
• A layer of waterproofing film is laid on it. Usually dense polyethylene plays this role. The canvases are laid with an overlap on the walls and an overlap of 10 centimeters; The joints are sealed with tape. Waterproofing will not only prevent capillary suction of water, but will also prevent cement laitance from going into the ground, weakening the concrete.
• A damper tape is placed around the perimeter of the room, which compensates for changes in the size of the concrete slab due to temperature fluctuations.

It is this stage that is captured in the photo.

Concrete pad, insulation, screed

Further instructions are also quite traditional:

• A concrete pad about 5 centimeters thick is laid out on polyethylene. As a rule, concrete grades M100 - M150 are used for this purpose. If you prepare it yourself, you should adhere to the following proportions:

• After the pillow has set, insulation is laid out on it. This role is usually played by extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam with a density of at least C-35.

Extruded polystyrene foam combines excellent thermal insulation qualities with fairly high rigidity.

• The insulation is covered with another layer of polyethylene, on which a reinforcing mesh with a cell of about 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid on low (2.5 - 3 centimeters) stands - factory-made or bent from wire. Of course, you can use reinforcement of greater thickness, but its price will be noticeably higher.
• Finally, the screed itself is laid out. This can be a ready-made mixture of factory production, or home-made concrete of the M300 grade (the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone is 1: 1.9: 3.7). It takes 3-4 days to gain enough strength to walk on concrete; full strength is gained in a month.

Wood screed

Is it possible to pour concrete over a wood floor if you need a secure base for tiles in a second-floor kitchen or bathroom?

Yes, it is possible, but with a lot of restrictions.

Problems

The fact is that the tree is movable. The linear dimensions of wooden structures change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature; boards and even beams tend to deform under load. The screed laid on them, if securely fixed to the base, will inevitably crack.

The mobility of the base will inevitably lead to a completely predictable result.

Moreover: with an average density of reinforced concrete of 2800 kg/m3, a five-centimeter screed will create a specific load of 140 kilograms per square meter on the flooring and beams, which is close to the strength limit of wooden structures.

Hence the practical consequences:

1. The concrete floor on wooden joists limits the maximum step between them to 40 centimeters. If the step is larger, the base needs to be strengthened.
2. A reasonable minimum thickness of flooring boards is 40 millimeters. Thinner boards will again have to be reinforced with thick wooden plywood or OSB.
3. Concrete floors are laid on wooden floors only and exclusively with a separating layer. This role is usually played by our old friend - dense polyethylene. It has a low coefficient of friction and will allow the wood to change its linear dimensions without damaging the integrity of the concrete.

Solutions

So, how to pour concrete on a wooden floor correctly?

1. We open the flooring. We evaluate the frequency and condition of the joists, the thickness of the floorboards and the load-bearing capacity of the beams.
2. We eliminate all detected deficiencies. We add joists, cover the boardwalk with plywood, etc. In the most complex methods, it is necessary to strengthen the beams with intermediate columns.

The beam is reinforced by a column.

Please note: it is difficult to give a definite answer to the question of which is better - a wooden floor or a concrete one. If organizing a screed on a wooden base is problematic, is it worth creating problems for yourself and heroically solving them?

1. We seal large gaps between the boards. For this purpose, wooden wedges mounted on glue are used.
2. We cover the floor with polyethylene - as in the previous scenario, with an overlap on the walls, overlap of adjacent canvases and taping the seams.
3. We lay out the reinforcing mesh on the stands and fill in the screed. To level it, you can use pre-set beacon profiles and a long rule; Alternatively, unevenness can be eliminated later with a self-leveling mixture.

After drying the base, you can proceed to laying the tiles.

Alternatives

As mentioned above, it is sometimes difficult to definitely choose a wooden or concrete floor; At the same time, pouring screed over a wooden floor is associated with a lot of problems and limitations.

We allow ourselves to push the reader to one of the solutions by offering alternatives to tile screed.

The simplest way to ensure reliable waterproofing of a bathroom on the second floor is to lay linoleum on the floor with a slight overlap on the walls. Even if this makeshift bowl accumulates enough a large number of water, it will not spill down. At the same time, the cost of the project will be several times lower than when laying tiles on concrete with preliminary reinforcement of the flooring.

Please note: linoleum on wooden flooring is subjectively much warmer than tiles on a concrete base.

If you want to see tiles in the bathroom or kitchen of the second floor, its installation can be done without a concrete base:

1. Two layers of waterproof gypsum fiber board or gypsum board are screwed on top of the boardwalk with self-tapping screws. The sheets are attached staggered, with the seams offset.

Drywall will help level and stabilize the tile base.

1. The tiles are laid on them using regular tile adhesive.
2. The seams are grouted with waterproof epoxy grout.

The resulting structure will be somewhat cheaper than a reinforced concrete screed and, most importantly, significantly lighter with sufficient rigidity.

Conclusion

We sincerely hope that our advice will help the reader solve at least some of the endless list of repair-related problems. The video in this article will help you learn more about how to pour a concrete floor in a wooden house. Good luck!

rubankom.com

Pouring a concrete floor in a wooden house

Flooring is an important stage in the construction of a house. This process must be performed taking into account all the features of working with the selected material. Obvious violations of technology during installation will lead to the fact that the floor will have to be changed frequently or completely redone. Most often, to install a floor in a wooden house, a board or floor tongue on joists is used, but it is possible to create a monolithic surface using an operation such as pouring concrete. Although this involves some difficulties, the results are worth it.

A smooth concrete floor is excellent for laying any finishing coating on top of it; if desired, it can be made warm by installing appropriate communications. If you follow the technology, you can fill such a base yourself, obtaining an excellent and high-quality result. To find out how to make a concrete floor in a wooden house in the absence of special skills, you need to study information from different sources and find an option that is suitable for a particular case. When choosing concrete for the foundation, remember that the building's foundation must be designed to withstand such a load.

The main advantages of a monolithic floor

Concrete flooring has many advantages:

1. Durable and reliable, designed for at least 20 years of trouble-free service. Can be used for any premises.
2. Withstands enormous loads, durable. Most high rate load level among all types of floors.
3. Resistant to fire, moisture. Concrete floor is a monolithic structure. There are no cracks into which moisture can get in and lead to the destruction of the coating. Not exposed to fungus or mold.
4. Any floor covering is suitable for finishing: linoleum, laminate, carpet, tiles, even wooden floor boards or parquet if desired.
5. Safe for health. Concrete does not emit any emissions into the air during operation. harmful substances, which makes this material one of the best.

Tools and materials needed to fill the floor

To pour a concrete floor in a wooden house yourself, you need to purchase:

• Level – take measurements of the surface.
• The rule is to evenly distribute the poured solution and level its surface;
• Trowel – this can be used to measure and apply cement mortar.
• Wooden slats serve as guides and are positioned as beacons.
• Concrete mortar - cement, water and sand. The optimal composition for making a concrete mixture is one part cement and three parts washed sand.
• Waterproofing material - a polymer membrane, roofing felt or polyethylene film is suitable.
• Insulation – extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and mineral wool would be an excellent choice.
• Metal mesh or frame made of 10 mm rods to strengthen the last layer of floor pouring.
• Restrictive corners.

The amount of materials required is calculated depending on the size of the floor.

Features of pouring a concrete base

The concrete floor in a house made of timber will last a long time if the shrinkage of buildings of this type is taken into account when pouring. If this factor is not taken into account, cracks will appear on the concrete floor and its monolithic structure will be damaged. To avoid this, the subfloor must be attached to the walls of the house.

If the owner of the house decides to replace a deteriorating wooden floor with a new concrete one, he should pay attention to the condition of the existing coating. The joists can be completely destroyed, then they need to be dismantled along with the entire floor and a new monolithic floor must be poured onto the prepared soil.

If the logs are in good condition, you can pour concrete over them; to do this, just pour a layer of clay and level it, and then carry out further work.

Preparing to pour a concrete floor onto the ground

First you need to prepare the soil - compact it, manually or using special tools. You need to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the compacted soil base (if it is not possible to purchase expanded clay, take ordinary crushed stone), level and compact the surface.

Then the selected waterproofing material is laid; the insulation layer must be larger in size than the dimensions of the concrete base and extend onto the walls by about 20 cm. Wooden slats or pieces should be laid on the insulating layer profile pipe, their height should correspond to the desired final floor height. This is done so that when pouring concrete you can see the required height level. Laying slats or pipes occurs using a building level.

Fill

After all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the main process. A subfloor is poured on top of the insulating layer; its thickness is about 7 cm. The purpose of the subfloor is the basis for vapor and waterproofing of the floor. The material selected for vapor barrier is laid on a completely finished subfloor. This material will help create good air circulation in the house.

The next layer is material for floor insulation. A layer of insulation will allow you to significantly save on heating your home by reducing thermal conductivity. When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to materials that also have additional waterproofing properties. The thickness of the insulation is calculated for each specific climate zone.

When performing a finishing reinforced screed, you need to pay attention to the loads that the floor in the room must withstand. If the loads are small, installing a metal mesh is suitable for finishing the screed, and for high loads it is better to use a frame made of 10 mm rods.

Leveling the floor level is done using a rule. You should also remember the order of pouring the floor: from the far corners of the room to the doors. It is better to pour concrete in two passes; this method will give the entire structure solidity and strength. After completion of work, drying of the concrete base should be carried out for 3-6 weeks. During this period, the screed must not be allowed to dry out - it is necessary to constantly moisten the surface with water. In order for the surface to dry more slowly, it is worth placing a plastic film over the floor.

The final stage is finishing. Here the choice of material depends solely on the tastes of the home owner, since the surface of a concrete floor made according to all the rules allows the use of any material. It is difficult to pour a concrete floor in a wooden house yourself, but it is quite possible. The most important thing is to have patience and time, and then the result will delight you for many years to come. By learning how to properly pour concrete on floors, you can significantly save on the services of professional companies. In order for it to meet all the expectations placed on it and serve as long as possible, you need to take a responsible approach to the preparatory work and strictly follow the concrete pouring technology.

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When you start building a house, the question of flooring arises Firstly, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and therefore the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private home can be installed in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wooden flooring has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete coverings are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Loose or floating floors were not so popular among home owners in the past, but recently many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is easy to install and can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features your device, depending on the design of the house, the area on which it should be placed, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even the financial capabilities of the homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm and pleasant to walk on, each of its types requires insulation, so it is definitely included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wood floors can be made different ways, but they are always secured to logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Pole-supported floors

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall covering. A log system installed only on support pillars is called “floating”.

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors using this system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected; the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.

Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug holes, then filled with water and thoroughly compacted. The better the bottom is compacted, the more reliable the support for the joist system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.

Red brick pillars are laid on the compacted cushion, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their cross-sectional size should be at least 40×40, and preferably 50×50 cm. The erected pillars are checked for level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.

On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, onto which the floor beams will subsequently be attached.

It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then support pillars can only be installed along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case it is necessary to lay massive beams on them.

After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three or four layers of roofing material.

Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting pins will pass.

Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled using wooden boards. When the base of the floor is laid, it is better to fix the pads to the bars using nails, and the beams themselves also need to be secured by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs have excess height, it is cut off with a grinder.

It is best to pour expanded clay onto the surface of the underground in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well retain moisture that can come from the ground and additionally insulate the floors.

In order for the floor installed in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this embodiment all the conditions have been created for this. If you plan to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Subfloor

The subfloor can be constructed in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the bottom cut of the beams. The cracks between the boards are coated with clay diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams using a stapler and staples.

• Then logs measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a visual example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

A wooden floor is also installed on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil in the underground must be compacted well, and a cushion of sand, gravel or medium-fraction crushed stone, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, placed on top of it, and then compacted again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the compacted cushion. If desired, you can lay reinforcement mesh under it for greater strength. Waterproofing should extend to the walls at least 10 centimeters.
• For waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will subsequently become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard insulation width).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - this can be 50÷100 mm polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
• Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better yet, on concrete blocks, leveled, and secured with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• Insulation on top, cash yeah attach a vapor barrier film.
• Then lay the floorboard, which is secured with nails carefully driven into its side.
• The board is laid at a distance one - one and a half centimeters from the wall to ensure ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot skimp on joists - they must be quite massive, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be immediately noted that with such a floor arrangement, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the joists is made on the concrete surface. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. Marking is done by marking a line with color.
• Next, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located at approximately the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• Holes are drilled in the beams themselves at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the surface of the concrete, after which the beam is placed on the studs.
• Then, using a level, tighten the clamps in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to an ideal horizontal level, controlling it with a level.
• The nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the installation of the subfloor, insulation and laying of the finished floor.

Fastening the joists directly to the screed

Place joists on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself if you have the right tools.

• Strips are struck on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Then, using anchors, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the beams can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be a good idea to lay thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be secured to the joists using staples.
• All over the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, they are laid on the covered polyethylene. insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

• The top of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can be laid on top.

Concrete floor

Concrete floors are also installed in different ways, but in general they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete coating is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and its installation begins after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected to place a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters deep. It needs to be compacted well by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, a rough screed is arranged. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam chips to the solution. In addition, in this case the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished hardened rough screed you need to spread waterproofing, which should extend 15-20 centimeters onto the walls. For it, you can take roofing felt or regular thick plastic film- the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps sealed.

• Insulation - expanded clay - is poured onto the waterproofing, or high-density extruded polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the house owner and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured into which insulation material can also be added. To ensure that the screed is level and there are no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to those exhibited according to the construction beacon level.

• If desired, additional insulation can be added to such a coating. You can lay wooden floors on the finished screed, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a “warm floor” system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated about installing floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in last years it is being used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is high-quality, homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only convenient to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If the bulk material is well distributed over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, so if the work is done conscientiously, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling the bulk mixture

• To ensure that the floors keep their shape and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads made of boards are installed.
• Plates made of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid on top of the dry screed. The most important thing is to set the first slab perfectly level - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but should be moved very carefully along the surface. The evenness of laying sheets during all work is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest load, for example, in aisles.
• On gypsum fiber the sheets have folds with which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are laid with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for flooring gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer so that they fit tightly together and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with the bottom with using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They must be twisted under load - to do this, simply stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with waterproofing material, for example, sealant.
• If such floors are installed in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is quite easy to install if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate– in terms of time for completing work, such a technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

All photos from the article

This article is about how to make a concrete floor in a wooden house. In it we will analyze two fundamentally different schemes - pouring the floor on the ground base in the first or basement floor and organizing the screed on wooden beams. So let's get started.

Ground screed

The first or basement floor of a private house usually houses a bathroom, boiler room, kitchen and some other rooms in which wooden flooring is undesirable. The owner’s desire to replace it with stronger, more durable and non-combustible concrete is understandable. How to do it?

Soil preparation

After dismantling the flooring and joists (if, of course, they are present initially), the following operations are performed:

• The soil of the former underground floor is leveled.

Please note: the total thickness of the insulated screed with bedding will be at least 30 centimeters.
It is quite possible that the subfloor will have to be deepened a little so as not to reduce the final height of the room.

• The ground is backfilled with sand or sand gravel to a depth of approximately 10 centimeters.
• and is carefully compacted.
• A layer of waterproofing film is laid on it. Usually dense polyethylene plays this role. The canvases are laid with an overlap on the walls and an overlap of 10 centimeters; The joints are sealed with tape. Waterproofing will not only prevent capillary suction of water, but will also prevent cement laitance from going into the ground, weakening the concrete.
• A damper tape is placed around the perimeter of the room, which compensates for changes in the size of the concrete slab due to temperature fluctuations.

Concrete pad, insulation, screed

Further instructions are also quite traditional:

• A concrete pad about 5 centimeters thick is laid out on polyethylene. As a rule, concrete grades M100 - M150 are used for this purpose. If you prepare it yourself, you should adhere to the following proportions:

• After the pillow has set, insulation is laid out on it. This role is usually played by extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam with a density of at least C-35.

The design of the floor in a wooden house is so important that it must be approached with all responsibility. After all, the slightest mistakes in work will lead to noticeable discomfort. The house will be cold, there will be air blowing from under the floor, the floors will creak, rot, etc.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The simplest option for flooring in a wooden house is concrete floors. In order to make them, you need to fill the space under the house with construction waste, make a layer of expanded clay and fill it all with concrete.

The concrete mixture is prepared from one part of cement of a grade not lower than M250, three parts of well-washed sand with medium or large grains, five parts of medium crushed stone. All this is mixed well, filled with water and mixed again. The finished solution is poured and allowed to gain the necessary strength within 3-6 weeks.

Waterproofing and cement floor screed in a wooden house

After the concrete has hardened, roofing felt waterproofing is laid on top. Sheets of this material are overlapped and the joints are passed through with a blowtorch.

A cement screed is placed on top of the waterproofing of the floor in a wooden house. To prepare the solution, 1 part of cement is mixed with 3 parts of sand, kneaded in water until sour cream is thick. When pouring screed, it is recommended to leave a gap of 1 cm near the wall. And if the area of ​​the room is large, then the same gap should be left in the middle of the room. It is usually done diagonally or in the shape of a cross.

After the screed has dried, the floor covering can be installed on it. This could be linoleum, carpet, laminate and other similar materials. You can also lay a wooden floor. To do this, bars are placed on the screed, logs are placed on top of them, and then floor boards are placed. How to properly install flooring boards will be discussed below.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Warm floors are often installed on a concrete base. To do this, a cable is laid along the cement screed, which will provide heat. After laying it, the screed is made again. And the finishing floor covering is placed on top of it.

Modern technologies make it possible to lay a heated floor directly over a cement screed, and lay laminate or other finishing material on top.

Wooden floor installation

Still, most people prefer to make wooden floors in a private home. Especially if the house is also built of wood. After all, wood is amazing pure material, and I don’t want to use concrete in building a wooden house.

There are centuries-old methods for installing a wooden floor that can last for decades without requiring any repairs. But a properly installed wooden floor is just like that. It's warm, comfortable, and doesn't require any repairs.

When building a house, it can be mounted into the walls wooden beam, lay logs on it and lay floor boards on top. But the most commonly used method is known as a “floating floor”. This type of floor is mounted on brick pillars and is not supported by the walls of the house.

Stages of work

First, the space under the floor is prepared. To do this, holes 50 cm deep are dug in the places where the brick pillars are installed. The distance between the holes should be 80-100 cm. They are filled with gravel and sand to form a cushion.

The pillow is carefully compacted. To do this, as the sand is poured, it is moistened with water and compacted with a special device called a tamper. It is a wooden block with a transverse handle.

On prepared pillows that rise above the ground, red solid bricks are laid in the form of columns of 1.5 or 2 bricks. The height of the columns is 25-50 cm. The higher the columns, the larger their cross-section should be. The level of the columns is carefully checked.

Then a layer of roofing material is laid on top of the bricks, and wooden beams are laid on it. This can be a wooden square beam or a round log. A subfloor made of slabs or low-grade boards is mounted on top of the timber or logs. The presence of a subfloor significantly insulates the house.

It should be noted that slag or expanded clay can be poured between the ground and the subfloor. And this space must be ventilated, otherwise the floor will begin to rot from dampness. To allow air access, small holes are made in the basement of the house. They can be covered with decorative grilles.

After installing the subfloor, wooden logs are laid on it, on which the finishing surface of the floor is laid. At different stages of installation you need to use a building level and do everything as level as possible. In the end it depends appearance floors in the house.

Installation of floorboards

Traditionally, wood is used to construct a wooden floor. coniferous species. Although, the final cladding can be made of wood such as oak, beech and hornbeam.

Only well-dried lumber should be used. Otherwise, you will have to leave the floor boards without nailing them down completely. And after drying, return to this work again.

It is best to use tongue and groove floorboards. A small gap is left between the first board and the wall, which is then covered with a plinth. The boards are adjusted to each other, making sure that the tongues fit well into the grooves.

It is recommended to lay the boards so that the layers of wood on adjacent boards run in different directions. If there is one window in the room, then the boards are placed in the direction of the rays of light that fall through the window. If this is a corridor, then in the direction of travel, that is, along.

Each board is nailed to the joists with a nail, the length of which is 2 or 2.5 times the thickness of the board. The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 degrees in such a way that the nail additionally presses the board against the adjacent one, which is already fixed. The nail head is recessed into the board. This is easy to do with the back of a hammer.

In the corners of the room, it is recommended to make holes in the floor with a diameter of 5-6 cm and raise them above the floor surface. This can be done using stuffed bars. The holes allow for floor ventilation in a wooden house. Air will flow freely into the space between the subfloor and the finished floor. The floor stays dry longer. At the end of the work, the boards are scraped and puttied, and then the floor in the wooden house is painted. Wooden floors also look good when coated with clear varnish.

Under a wooden floor, it is also easy to install a warm floor in the space between the subfloor and the upper surface.

By the way, many modern preparations can protect lumber from moisture, rot and fungus. Most of these products are safe for humans and can be used to further protect your floor.

Not only the exterior, but also the interior should be beautiful. About the interior decoration of a house made of timber.

Video about installing a floor in a wooden house

Pouring a concrete floor

How to install a subfloor in a wooden house

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