Canon 18 55 kit lens specifications. What is a kit lens: its advantages and disadvantages. Disadvantages of whale optics
For the opportunity review of the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III lens Many thanks to Vitaly Kukota.
The Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III is a kit lens, that is, a lens that comes with the camera.
TTX Canon Zoom LENS EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 III
Focal length: 18-55mm
Maximum aperture: F/3.5-F/5.6
Minimum aperture: F/22-F/38
Number of aperture blades: 6
Optical design: 11 elements in 9 groups
Minimum focusing distance: 25cm
Front filter diameter: 58 mm
Weight: 200g
There are a huge number of modifications of the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 series lenses; the modifications would break the devil himself.
Lenses without stabilizer Images:
An accurate and complete list of all Canon EF-S/Canon EF-M lenses can be viewed.
This review presents the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III without image stabilizer, one of the simplest versions. Despite the fact that my Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III is one of the cheapest lenses, it can produce quite normal image quality.
The lens has a very short name: Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III
- Canon - indicates that the lens is designed for Canon cameras
- EF-S – EF-S mount type, this lens can only be mounted on Canon APS-C cameras that support EF-S mount lenses
- 18-55mm – lens focal length. When used with cropped Canon APS-C 1.6x cameras, the EGF will correspond to 29-88mm.
- f/3.5-5.6 III – indicates the aperture value. Roughly speaking, this shows the lens aperture value.
The Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III lens has only one switch on its body, which is responsible for switching between focus modes. In AF mode, only auto focus is available, which works with all Canon APS-C cameras. In M mode, only manual focusing is available. When focusing manually, the lens' focusing ring rotates approximately 90 degrees. Focusing manually is very awkward because the focusing ring is very narrow and it moves back and forth when focusing. The focusing method is the most primitive; due to the fact that the front lens rotates and moves back and forth, using specialized filters will be problematic. I recommend using at least for this lens, since the protective filter does not care whether the front lens rotates or does not rotate.
Autofocus speed is average. I did not feel any lack of focusing speed, especially since at the short end (at 18mm) the lens is almost always focused in the infinity region. Of course, this simple Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III cannot compete with the focusing speed of advanced lenses of the type.
The Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III is not a fast lens. This means that they are very difficult to shoot in low light conditions. Moreover, the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III does not have image stabilizer. The aperture value f/3.5-5.6 is quite normal.
Photo with Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III. Sun glare.
The focal length of the lens is very good for basic tasks, the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III has a wide angle, which is very important, and the 3x zoom allows you to quickly compose required frame. A nice feature of the lens is that it allows you to shoot at very close distances. You can even shoot good macro.
Image quality
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III at open apertures produces a sharp image in the center of the frame, sharpness decreases at the edges and corners. Good sharpness appears around F/8.0 across the entire field. The lens suffers from severe distortion at 18mm and strong vignetting. are also present in sufficient quantities. The lens does not catch hares well and performed well in backlight. Due to the fact that this is a standard dark zoom, it does not boast good bokeh.
Lens
Examples of photos taken with Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III
All photos in the review were taken on camera, photos without processing. RAW – > JPEG, Q80%, reduced size to 2MP and imprinted data from, missing the signature ‘III’ at the end of the lens name.
If you are like most photographers, then you buy your first “serious” camera (that is, with removable lenses) complete with a lens from the manufacturer, the so-called kit (set) or “whale” lens. The photo above shows a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS II lens.
Most of the lenses that come with the camera are not expensive (if not cheap). This is understandable - all photographic equipment manufacturing companies are in fierce competition with each other, and it is in their interests to provide customers with affordable and good camera. Having become a little carried away by photography, you will most likely want to purchase a new, expensive and higher quality lens. So why not go out and buy one now? - No, you shouldn’t do that! You simply have no idea how useful and easy to use your first lens can be. You can take great pictures with the Kit lens that came with your camera. Don't believe me?
There are many good examples how photographers, even professional ones, can take photographs with one lens and one camera for several years, and be completely satisfied with the quality of their images. For example, you can look at the portfolio of the famous fashion photographer Jingna Zhang. She takes her photographs with the EOS 350D 18-55mm lens, which was released back in 2006. You can imagine how many new, improved lenses have appeared since then, and yet, the master preferred this particular lens and has been delighting with beautiful photographs for many years.
There are some unsuccessful photographs that are taken when shooting with a “native” lens, but such photographs are also obtained when photographing with expensive lenses. Having been photographing for several years now with the EOS 350D 18-55mm lens, which originally came with my camera, I became convinced that the pictures, although not always perfect, behave well when printed and published.
So you have a standard 18-55mm lens, what does that mean? Let's look at your Kit lens differently. What does 18mm mean - it's the same as a regular wide-angle lens, which is great for shooting portraits, landscapes, architectural structures and environment. 55mm is the same as a smaller telephoto lens (55mm-135mm), with this focal length you can photograph more distant objects well. Photos will be clear and detailed.
Get the best out of your 18-55mm lens
(module Yandex direct (7))
When photographing with an 18-55mm lens, it is important to know the features of each focal length, what is better to photograph at a short focal length and what at a long one. Having only a wide-angle lens, or only a telephoto lens, you will never know the beauty of shooting at a distance that is not covered by either of these lenses.
Many lenses have one wonderful, very useful feature - image stabilizer (Canon, Nikon and some others also have special devices that provide vibration suppression). Image stabilizer is allowed to do high quality pictures with endurance. This way, you can set the focal length of your lens to 18mm and shoot without any camera shake at a shutter speed of ¼ or even ½ second. This is great when shooting in low light conditions, and also helps you realize your creative potential when shooting in the evening or at night.
We use the Kit lens as a wide-angle
The pictures you see above were taken at a focal length of 18mm. You can see how close the photographer got to the subject. In some photographs, I had to tilt the camera back a little to capture the fullness of the frame.
Using the Kit Lens as a Telephoto Lens
These photographs were taken at a maximum focal length of 55mm. The photos look completely different due to the limited depth of field and compressed perspective.
(module Yandex direct (9))
Disadvantages of Kit Lens
Of course, the lens that you buy right away with your camera is very good, and you can do a lot of good things with it, high quality photos, but it also has its drawbacks. And there comes a time when you are faced with the limitations that this lens carries. This is neither good nor bad, it just means that your lens is no longer enough for you.
What are the main disadvantages of Kit lenses?
Focal length: You may find that the focal length is 18mm, which is short for wide angle lens, and you need a shorter distance, which means it's time to consider purchasing a true wide-angle lens.
On the other hand, the zoom that a 55mm focal length gives you may seem too short for you. In this case, you will need a telephoto lens. This can happen if you are photographing wildlife or sporting events.
Autofocus Typically, autofocus on lenses that come with your camera is noisier and slower than on expensive lenses. If you're not happy with the autofocus on your Kit lens, consider purchasing a better lens.
Diaphragm. Kit lenses do not have a very wide maximum aperture, the reason for this is quite simple - the aperture cannot be large if the lens itself is not very wide. Lenses with larger apertures are an order of magnitude more expensive than Kit lenses. The maximum aperture at a focal length of 55mm is about f5.6. A zoom lens, at the same focal length, can have an aperture of f4 or f2.8, and more expensive zoom lenses can have an aperture of f1.8, at a focal length of 50mm.
Build quality. If you plan to photograph in adverse weather conditions, your Kit lens may not perform as well as it should. the best side. For such shooting, you will need a lens with a metal body and special metal mounts that protect it from atmospheric influences.
Conclusion
If you are a beginner photographer, or an amateur photographer who mostly takes photographs for the family archive, then a regular Kit lens will be enough for you. It can take good, high-quality images that perform well when printed, and it's also very versatile. If you are striving for something more, and this lens is not enough for you, think about purchasing a lens aimed at the genre of photography that interests you most.
Almost all DSLR and mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses can be purchased in two versions - just the camera or complete with a starter lens. This lens was also popularly nicknamed “whale” - from the English word kit (set). More experienced photographers will most likely advise you to buy a camera with a “normal” lens, because it is believed that a kit lens is not worth your attention. However, they could already forget that at one time they were also beginners, and the kit lens helped them understand many parameters in order to later choose a more suitable lens for creative tasks. We will tell you everything you need to know about this unpretentious “whale” optics, so that you can draw your own conclusions and decide for yourself which configuration to buy the camera.
What is a kit lens?
As a rule, this is the cheapest lens in the manufacturer's line. Its price should tend to the minimum in order to only slightly affect the total cost of the camera. A camera with such a lens is the most affordable entry ticket to the world of photography. In the recent film past, the role of a whale lens was played by a lens with a fixed focal length, usually about 50 mm. Nowadays, lenses with variable focal lengths of small magnification are the most common: from moderate telephoto to wide angle.
What kinds of kit lenses are there?
18-55mm kit lens family
Canon EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6
Lenses 18-55 have the most popular focal lengths and are most often found on digital system cameras entry-level and mid-price segment. Their range of focal lengths allows you to cover the main range of subjects in amateur photography. So, 18 mm is already wide enough to accommodate beautiful landscape with a complex foreground, 35 mm is ideal for event or genre photography, and 55 mm will help you take a beautiful half-length portrait. However, in some cases this zoom magnification may not be enough and then a lens with a higher magnification may be suitable for you. Such lenses are also sold complete with cameras, and are also kit lenses.
What are the best kit lenses?
18-135mm kit lens family
This family of lenses belongs more likely to hyperzooms (zooms with a multiple of more than 3x). At its core, this is also a kit lens, but due to a more complex optical design, its final cost is slightly higher and, as kit optics, they are not included with all budget camera models from the manufacturer. With such a lens, the camera becomes more versatile, and this significantly expands your capabilities. Quite often they prefer to take them on trips because there is no need to buy and carry a special telephoto lens. Additional focal lengths of 75 and 135 mm allow you to not only bring distant subjects closer, but also help you reach the center of the action if you are unable to get closer to your subject. With a focal length of about 80-135 mm it is convenient to shoot close-up portraits. And the background blur in this case turns out to be much stronger than with 55 mm.
If you are just starting your steps in photography, then you will buy your first serious camera with an 18-55 or 18-135 lens. But don’t rush to immediately put it on the shelf and rush to the store for top-end glass costing tens of thousands of rubles, as some “more experienced” photographers may advise you. Such inexpensive whale zooms are the best solution to try your hand at photography.
Advantages of whale optics
The first and main advantage of a kit lens is that it will cost you almost nothing. Whatever lens you buy next, you'll never get better value for money. Modern kit lenses are not inferior in sharpness to their noticeably more expensive counterparts in genres such as landscape or macro, as well as when traveling, since they use a closed aperture (f/5.6 - f/8) to shoot such scenes. Of course, in terms of sharpness, they will still be inferior to their much more expensive counterparts in cases where you shoot in low light levels (for example, in the evening or indoors) with an open aperture. However, one should not believe that a multiple difference in price will also have a significant impact on the quality of photographs. Even at an open aperture (f/3.5), the sharpness of the kit lens is enough to print cards measuring 20x30 cm, and modern matrices make it possible to significantly increase the level of sensitivity in order to compensate for the lack of aperture of kit optics without losing detail.
Most whales have a built-in optical stabilizer. This will allow you to take clear pictures in poor light conditions handheld without the need for a tripod. Another advantage of whales is minimum distance focusing about 25 centimeters. Even though you may not be able to remove the antennae of some small beetle from such a distance, you will be quite capable of trying your hand at macro photography. Not all lenses can boast such a focusing distance. Even if this doesn’t seem enough to you, there are numerous extension rings and correction filters for macro photography at your service.
Many people forget that a kit lens weighs only about 200-250 grams. The weight of a camera kit with such optics is just over half a kilogram, while more professional equipment with professional optics can weigh at least twice, or even three times as much. Few people take this fact into account, but when it comes to long walks with a camera, weight begins to play an important role. The lighter the weight, the less tired you are and the more you focus on photography.
Disadvantages of whale optics
So, what are the disadvantages of kit lenses? Yes, over the past ten years they have made a big step forward: from plastic “mount plugs” to quite high-quality universal lenses. The difference between the current and first generations of kit lenses is significant, but they still have a number of shortcomings that make them what they are.
The first drawback is the build quality and materials. The lens may creak and have slight play. Autofocus is unlikely to be silent, and its speed will be slower than that of more expensive models. The cheap plastic from which the bodies of whale optics are made is not the most pleasant material to the touch. They also lack dust and moisture protection, so using them in harsh conditions is quite dangerous for both the lens itself and the camera.
The second and main drawback is the relatively low aperture ratio. Almost all whales have aperture values ranging from f/3.5 at 18 mm to f/5.6 at 55 or 135 mm. This is significantly lower compared to fast prime lenses and still insufficient compared to good standard zooms. Modern matrices are capable of producing high-quality results at high ISO values, and if you are keen on landscape or street photography, low aperture will not be of decisive importance for you. However, with a kit lens you will not be able to “tear” the subject from the background, and you should forget about the beautiful blur of the background. The aperture value is too low, the optical design is too imperfect. Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6D ED AF Zoom-Nikkor
Lenses 75-300 are paired with a standard lens 18-55. A set of two of these lenses covers 99% of all the focal lengths you might need. This is also a very convenient solution for starting in the world of photography.
Let's sum it up
You shouldn't neglect the kit lens. If you don’t understand terms like “aperture” and “focal lengths,” then it’s all the more worth starting with a kit lens. With its help, you can try as many genres as possible, get acquainted with the basic parameters of optics and decide what you need and what your heart is most drawn to. Even as you begin to expand your lens fleet, a kit lens can serve as an excellent wide-angle lens. Or cannon fodder if you have to shoot in difficult weather conditions or there is a high risk of damage to the optics. In short, it is your key to the world of photography, and everything you need to obtain high-quality images and for your creative growth is already built into it.
The kit lens has many disadvantages, which novice photographers rightly complain about. They call a kit 18 - 55 mm or 18 - 105 mm lens bad.
But is it?
Maybe it's simply being used incorrectly or filmed in inappropriate conditions?
In this guide, I'll teach you how to work around kit lens problems. Believe me, this lens can do a lot.
This photo was taken by me with a kit lens. Can you tell this is a bad photo?
Why is a kit lens bad?
If you list the problems of a kit lens, the list will look something like this:
- Focus slips
- Lathers at the edges of the range
- Poor sharpness
- Insufficient depth of field
- Poor aperture
- Poor quality picture
Autofocus miss
This is a common problem with kit lenses. It makes no difference whether we are talking about Canon, Nikon or Sony.
Most often, autofocus misses when shooting with an open aperture and a focal length of 55 mm.
There are three ways to solve this problem.
Do not use an open aperture. I'm serious. Stop down to f/8 and the number of out-of-focus frames will be reduced. But this will somewhat limit the use of the lens.
A more reasonable solution would be to have the lens adjusted in a service center.
For example, Kenon adjusts new lenses for free. Why not take advantage of this opportunity if it exists.
The third way to solve focusing problems is the way of a true Jedi. This is manual or manual focusing.
With manual focusing, your photos will always be sharp and clear. It all depends on your eyes and hands.
But you will lose focusing speed. Lack of lighting will also have an effect, when it is difficult to see through the viewfinder the appearance of sharpness on the subject.
This can no longer be avoided.
Blurring the image at the edges of focal lengths
The kit lens, like many zooms, regardless of cost, is characterized by blurring of the frame when shooting at 18 mm or 55 mm.
As far as I was able to find out from various sources, the defect most often occurs at 55 mm. This is due to the design of the lens.
There is no way to influence this defect. It needs to be bypassed.
How to take a sharp photo
Let me give you an example.
My kit lens is 55 mm. This was discovered experimentally.
I took several shots of a stationery ruler, successively changing the focal length of the lens. At 55 mm the lens blurred the picture. But at 45-48 mm the picture was sharp and clear.
In other words, it is enough not to turn the lens up to 55 mm when shooting. This is what I do for sharp and clear pictures.
Do this test for your lenses. This is one of those things that makes it easy and simple to improve the quality of your photos.
As with other zoom lenses, the image will be sharp and clear in the middle of the focal length range and in the middle of the aperture scale. That is, shooting at 35 mm and an aperture of f/8 - f/11 will allow you to get a clear and sharp frame.
This method always works, but there are unpleasant exceptions.
Open aperture
This is problem. The lens cannot open beyond f/5.6 at 55mm. This makes it difficult to shoot portraits with a blurred background and prevents you from getting beautiful bokeh.
How to get around this trouble, read below.
Poor aperture
Due to the fact that the lens cannot open wide, it cannot be called fast. This limits the use of the kit lens in low light conditions.
For example, at dusk.
Low aperture results in long shutter speeds, which makes handheld shooting difficult. Therefore, use a tripod or any surface on which you can place the camera.
This limits portrait photography a bit, but doesn't hinder landscape shots at all. Or any other genre of photography where static objects are photographed.
Poor quality picture and bad drawing
This is dignity.
Yes, gentlemen. Poor microcontrast and poor quality lens design helps you quickly learn processing programs like Photoshop or Lightroom, since there are no other ways to improve the image of a kit lens.
The shortcomings of the lens force one to study processing, which has a positive effect on the development of the photographer.
Proper exposure of the frame will avoid large quantity fiddling around with processing, and will save a lot of time.
Do you know how much time I spent processing this photo, taken with a kit 18-55 mm lens?
I didn't have to deal with shadow noise or highlights because I got the exposure right.
How to get bokeh on a kit lens
Exactly the same as with any other lens. You will need the widest possible aperture, the widest focal length and the closest possible location to the subject.
On a kit lens, this is an f/5.6 aperture, a focal length of 55 mm and a location one meter from the subject.
Don't expect a nice bokeh pattern.
It will be far from a perfect circle due to the design of the lens and will resemble small blurry “nuts” in appearance.
The bokeh pattern depends on the number of aperture blades in the lens mechanism. The more of them, the more the bokeh looks like circles. The kit lens, like many other modern lenses, does not boast big amount blades at the diaphragm. That's why there are "nuts".
Do not align the kit lens with high-aperture primes.
Humble yourself.
To summarize
Check your lens. Avoid its weaknesses and learn to take photographs.
Believe me, there are no truly bad lenses.
A whale lens will allow you to take stunning pictures, if you don’t ride the rake of birth defects.
For the opportunity review of the Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS Many thanks to the Fotoprokat.com.ua project, by the way, you can rent this lens there.
Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S is a regular kit lens, that is, a lens that comes with the camera.
Such a lens can be found with almost every amateur SLR camera from Canon. You can find an updated version of this lens - Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS II, and there are a whole bunch of earlier versions of the 18-55mm class.
Lenses without stabilizer Images:
An accurate and complete list of all Canon EF-S/Canon EF-M lenses can be viewed.
View of the Canon 18-55 IS 3.5-5.6 EF-S lens on a modern camera
Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS is one of the most simple options lenses for modern cropped Canon APS-C cameras. Designation EF-S indicates that the lens can only be used on cameras with a crop sensor, such as , 7D, and can not use on cameras like Canon EOS-1D Mark II, Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III. I've never met anyone who wants to use a kit crop lens on a full frame camera.
The Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S has a mediocre value, the maximum value at 18mm focal length is F/3.5, and at 55mm focal length F/5.6. The aperture can be closed up to F/22 at 18mm and up F/36 at 55mm. A closed aperture helps greatly increase and make long exposure. The lens aperture consists of only 6 petals, but they are strongly rounded, and therefore allow you to get even circles in the out-of-focus zone even at closed apertures, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the lens’s bokeh.
The focal length varies from 18 to 55mm, so the zoom ratio of the lens is 3 times. The zoom factor is easy to find out by dividing the larger number in the focal length by the smaller one, for example, in this case 55mm\18mm=3.05 times. If you recalculate the focal length, then the EGF will correspond 29-88mm For full frame. Such focal length limits make it possible to photograph using a wide angle of 18mm, which is very important for a number of cases. Finding a cheap wide-angle lens for a cropped camera is difficult, but the Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S allows you to achieve a wide field of view for a ridiculous price. In general, 3x zoom is not so bad; for example, almost all fast professional lenses also have a 3x zoom, in particular the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS and the like.
By speed of work Lens focusing is average– not fast, but not very slow either. When focusing, the front lens rotates, and the ‘trunk’ of the lens lengthens - one of the most bad focusing systems, as it makes it difficult to use special photo filters. There is a focus mode switch on the lens 'AF MF', in MF mode only manual focusing is available. Focusing manually is inconvenient due to the very narrow plastic focusing ring, which also moves back and forth when focusing. When focusing, the focusing ring only rotates 45 degrees, making it difficult to focus accurately and smoothly manually. The lens boasts good macro 1:3, since the minimum focusing distance is only 25cm, photographing every little thing with the Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S is not difficult.
The lens has a very useful IS function (I mage S tabilization), which is responsible for stabilizing the lens during shooting. This function allows you to get rid of and avoid blurred images. It is stated that the stabilization system can help squeeze out an extra 4 stops, but in practice the lens is far from reaching 4 stops. But in general, the stabilizer in the lens works well and really helps in combating camera movement at long shutter speeds.
A plastic lens hood may be included with the lens. The Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S itself is made of plastic, including the bayonet mount, but the Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S weighs only 200 grams. The lens itself is made in Thailand. The lens uses an optical design of 11 elements in 9 groups, and one of these elements is aspherical. The zoom ring is rubberized, in fact the zoom ring makes up the largest visual part of the lens. The front filter diameter is 58mm. According to the designation on the lens, it can be used for 10 years before being disposed of.
Each manufacturer has its own 18-55 class kit lens, here it is small comparison with Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor
Two kit lenses - Nikon on the left, Canon on the right
Both lenses have a plastic body, a stabilization system, are made in Thailand, have the same focusing principle and are equally inconvenient when focusing manually. Also, both lenses use only 1 aspherical element in the optical design. The Nikon lens is a little heavier and does a little worse at macro photography. The Canon lens has a larger filter diameter and fewer aperture blades. I conducted a test in which both lenses showed identical focusing speed, The Canon version is noticeably louder when focusing.
Two kit lenses - Nikon on the left, Canon on the right. It can be seen that both have a plastic mount.
Sample photos
All sample photos in the gallery below without processing, only the size was reduced to 3 MP and data from was imprinted, the examples were shot on a camera with the image stabilization function turned on.
Image quality
Talking about the image quality of a kit lens is a very thankless task. I want to raise the enthusiasm of people who bought themselves an expensive DSLR with a kit; the Canon 18-55 IS 3.5-5.6 EF-S produces pretty good image quality. Weak side The lens is the 18mm zoom position, at which pronounced distortion and vignetting are visible and. The camera processor can handle vignetting, but not all cameras can correct distortion. Interestingly, the lens has good sharpness, especially at apertures F/5.6-F/11. The lens tolerates backlight well and provides good contrast. In general, the image quality is good.
Example of bokeh on an open aperture:
Example of bokeh on a closed aperture:
Personal experience
The Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S turned out to be a worthy lens in many ways; you can get a lot of good pictures out of it, after all, and not on what equipment. For cropped cameras, the best universal lens is a focal length of 18mm or more. If you need a full-fledged replacement for a kit lens to perform more complex photo tasks, then good option E-katalog, or large online stores such as Rozetka can serve. A lot of little things for photos can be found on Aliexpress.
Conclusions:
Canon 18-55 IS F 3.5-5.6 EF-S – kit lens with stabilizer. Suitable as the first lens for a cropped digital SLR camera, it has a convenient range of focal lengths. It can't boast a huge zoom, but the image quality is pretty good.
