Restaurant critic: restaurant “Katyk. Father Nikita Storozhev, first priest of the village of Northern Katyk Gilzy Katyk

The Church of Peter and Paul in the village of Russian Shirdany was built in 1784 at the expense of a local landowner - retired colonel Peter Iakinfovich Lazarev.

There are several settlements with the name Shirdany in the Zelenodolsk region - Big and Small, Russian and Old. Neither to Russian nor to Tatar language this word, according to linguists, has no relation. According to some linguists, the name of the village comes either from the distorted Mari word “shurga” - “forest”, or, more likely, from the Chuvash “shirtan”. This is the name of a dish of national Chuvash cuisine, something like modern raw smoked sausage.

However, why should we be surprised? The Mari and other tribes of the so-called Finno-Ugric group have lived here since time immemorial. The Trans-Volga lands of the modern Zelenodolsk region began to be actively populated by the ancestors of modern Tatars only in the 13th century, after the Mongol invasion.

THE DOOR LEADING TO ETERNITY...

The first mentions of the village of Shirdan are found in the notes of the Bulgarian scientist Sheref ed-din and they date back to the 13th century. As for other evidence of the ancient Bulgars, and later the Volga Tatars, living in these places, they can be found among ancient tombstones.

“Iski Zirat” – “Old Cemetery”. This is what the Shirdan people themselves call the place, which is located about a kilometer northwest of Small Shirdan. It is located on the slope of the terrace of the small river Syakel, which flows into Sviyaga. On the turfed surface of the old cemetery, scientists discovered the remains of stone gravestones. Unfortunately, the inscriptions on them can no longer be read; they have weathered and worn out, but according to a number of indirect signs, the burials date back to the 14th–15th centuries.

The inscriptions on the Shirdan tombstones indicate that the village residents were devout Muslims, and the dates of the burials (two monuments date back to 1533 and 1539 and one to 1667) suggest that already during the time of the Kazan Khanate, both villages were quite large settlements in the district

Stone monuments in the ancient cemetery near the village of Bolshie Shirdany have more or less survived to this day. Historians were able to read and decipher a number of inscriptions on stone slabs. These gravestone epitaphs on the front of the monuments were made in the so-called Naskh handwriting - elegant relief letters. In Arabic writing, several handwritings, or, more precisely, styles, are most common. These are the Naskh script used to write the Koran, the Thuls script used mainly for works of art, and the Kufi script used to write on buildings. The inscriptions on the Shirdan tombstones indicate that the village residents were devout Muslims, and the dates of the burials (two monuments date back to 1533 and 1539 and one to 1667) suggest that already during the time of the Kazan Khanate, both villages were quite large settlements in the district . As a rule, stone, carved tombstones were installed over the graves of wealthy and noble people.

I don’t know about anyone, but when I look at the intricate lace letters of such tombstones, I am not at all haunted by gloomy thoughts about the frailty of earthly existence. Looking at the calligraphic inscription, you involuntarily agree with the words of the next tombstone epitaph, philosophically asserting that death is just “the door leading to Eternity”...

NATIONAL DRINK WITH A LOCAL SECRET

I remember the first time I had a chance to visit Shirdany in the summer, during Sabantuy. Bright colors remain forever in memory happy holiday. But what I remember even more was the taste of local katyk, which was treated to familiar Shirdan residents. The first thing I immediately noticed when trying the cool drink was its unusual color. I have never seen katyk with a beetroot tint before. The unusual drink also has a special taste. As my friends told me, they prepare it according to a special recipe, adding beet juice to the milk.

And also, local residents assured, Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin himself tried Shirdan katyk. Don't believe me? Well, at first I myself treated this statement with a certain degree of skepticism. However, I doubted it only until I came across the book by Zelenodolsk local historian V. Fedotov, “The City We Live In.” In it, the author refers to the story of Pyotr Okhotnikov, whose relative was a tutor to high school student Volodya Ulyanov and prepared the future leader of the revolution to enter Kazan University. But this is true, by the way...

According to his statements, in the fall of 1833, Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin was traveling along the Simbirsk Highway to Orenburg on crossroads. The poet was traveling with the aim of collecting material for the monograph “The History of the Pugachev Rebellion”, not even imagining then that many of the documents would form the basis of his story “The Captain's Daughter”. The road was bumpy and dusty, and the heat was bothering the travelers.

While Alexander Sergeevich was savoring the unusual drink that the local Tatars offered him, he managed to meet an ancient old man who came out of his hut to look at the Russian master. As it turned out from the poet’s conversation with the Babai’s relatives, he, while still a very young guy, took part in the Pugachev uprising. I wanted to return to my native village on a good horse, in morocco boots, but I was captured near Kazan, sat in casemates and returned home with... my ears cut off. Was it not this incident that prompted Pushkin to write a memorable episode in the story “The Captain's Daughter”?

To the poet’s question what kind of village and church this is, the coachman answered briefly:

- Shirdans.

– What kind of village is it opposite? - asked the poet.

“Also Shirdans,” the coachman answered just as briefly.

- How? – the poet was surprised. – Two villages with the same name?

“These are Russian, and those are Big, Tatar,” the driver poked his whip first in one direction and then in the other.

“If you want to drink, master, you won’t find a better drink than in Shirdan.”

- Kvass, or what?

- Where is the kvass? It will be cleaner than kvass! It's called Katyko...

And while Alexander Sergeevich was savoring the unusual drink that the local Tatars offered him, he managed to meet an ancient old man who came out of his hut to look at the Russian master. As it turned out from the poet’s conversation with the Babai’s relatives, he, while still a very young guy, took part in the Pugachev uprising. I wanted to return to my native village on a good horse, in morocco boots, but I was captured near Kazan, sat in casemates and returned home with... my ears cut off.

Was it not this incident that prompted Pushkin to write a memorable episode in the story “The Captain's Daughter”? Remember the chapter in which the gentlemen officers of the Beloretsk fortress interrogate the captured “Bashkir” who distributed Pugachev’s “outrageous sheets”. And during the interrogation, they suddenly learn that their captive cannot speak - his tongue and ears were cut off for participating in the riot that preceded Pugachev’s uprising.

HOMELAND OF THE MERCHANT KAZAKOV

A native of the village of Malye Shirdany is the famous Kazan merchant, philanthropist and philanthropist Muhammadzyan Kazakov. While still a teenager, he left his native place and settled in Kazan - he settled with distant relatives and learned to trade. He started small: he served as a clerk in a shop, then, having accumulated initial capital, he managed to open his own profitable business, albeit small. He started out trading fish. Things were going well, which was largely due to the tenacity and hard work of the rural boy, which were combined with thrift and ingenuity. And soon Muhammadzyan Kazakov declares himself a merchant of the second guild. In Kazan, he opens a brisk trade in groceries and tea leaves, which brings him considerable profit. Already in 1853, he built a spacious two-story house in Novo-Tatarskaya Sloboda at the beginning of Zakharyevskaya Street. And ten years later, Muhammadzyan became a merchant of the first guild and entered the circle of the Kazan merchant elite. This is greatly facilitated by family connections, after the merchant marries his son Muhammadshakir to Bibimagrui Usmanova, the daughter of another merchant and “soap king” of Kazan, Dzhiganshi Usmanov.

Later, Muhammadshakir Kazakov began to build and actively buy apartment buildings in Kazan. Soon he acquired a three-story beautiful house on the corner of Moskovskaya and Evangelistovskaya streets, which over time became the center of Kazan culture. Gabdulla Tukai lived in the rooms of the Bulgar Hotel located there, the poet Sagit Ramiev stayed, and the enlightener Akhmet Maksudi opened the first national library. Subsequently, the editorial offices of the newspaper “El Islah”, headed by Fatih Amirkhan, and the magazine “Yalt-Yolt”, of which Tukay was the executive secretary, were located here. The Kazakovs were known not only as rich, but also educated people and in every possible way encouraged any manifestation of advanced national thought.

Despite the enormous wealth, they were not particularly proud of it. Which, in general, was typical of most Tatar merchants. Being deeply religious, they, following the suras of the Koran, often forgave debts to their debtors and, characteristically, never engaged in usury - they did not lend money on interest at exorbitant interest rates. The Kazakov merchants donated a huge part of their income to the construction of mosques and other charitable institutions. So, in 1877, with the money of Muhammadzyan Kazakov, a beautiful stone mosque was built at the intersection of Evangelistovskaya and Zadnaya streets. Unfortunately, she did not decorate Novo-Tatarskaya Sloboda for long. This wonderful architectural monument was demolished, broken brick by brick, in 1975.

Merchants Kazakovs. Pre-revolutionary photograph.

But to this day, for more than a century, there has been a mosque in the village of Malye Shirdany, built with the financial assistance of a representative of the glorious Kazakov family.

TEMPLE BY THE ROAD

It's no secret that the majority and Orthodox churches, built before the revolution, were erected at the expense of rich people. What motivated them? The desire to atone for your sins? Brought up in Orthodoxy, they all knew the words of Jesus about how difficult it is for a rich man to enter the Kingdom of Heaven. After all, wealth, even if acquired honestly, is also a path to idleness and sinful temptations. So wealthy people donated a lot of money to charitable causes.

The two-story stone church of Peter and Paul in the village of Russian Shirdany was built in 1784 at the expense of a local landowner - retired colonel Peter Iakinfovich Lazarev. Before this, there was a small wooden church in the village. The brick temple was completed and consecrated after the death of the old master, during the reign of his son Nikolai Petrovich Lazarev.

For many years, the three-altar church in Russian Shirdan, built in the Baroque style, delighted the eyes of every passerby. It can still be seen today from the windows of passing electric trains rushing from Kazan towards Tyurlema ​​and Kanash.

Alas... The church, closed in the thirties of the last century, looks gloomy and uninviting. The Soviet government, which decided to build “heaven on earth,” did not need the “fairy tales” of the clergy. But then they failed to build a happy society without God.

What about today? Which of the modern tycoons-oligarchs or high-ranking officials will turn their gaze through the windows of tinted foreign cars to an abandoned rural temple by the road?..

After all, a century ago they knew how to please people with truly spring-like, life-affirming advertising to the limit :)

By the way, I didn’t know who Katyk was. That is, it was clear that the advertisement was talking about cigarette tubes. But that's all. Useful to look for details. And here's what turned out:

Abram Ilyich Katyk is the son of poor Karaites in the city of Evpatoria, with lower Karaite and general education. Katyk is the initiator and main founder of the cigarette-sleeve factory he created together with his brother Joseph Ilyich Katyk (1862-1923) around 1890 in Moscow... Since the summer of 1891, he owned the famous tobacco factory "Dukat" (the name comes from the beginning of two surnames - Duvan and Katyk).

By the way, I didn’t even know where the name “Dukat” came from :)

Here's another interesting story:

In 1904, the Bakhchisaray tradesman Efet Abramovich Erak came to Samara and rented a basement and part of the house on Moskatelnaya, 83. Then three more arrived at the prepared place: a relative from Evpatoria, Sar Shalom Shamuilovich Erak, as well as a tradesman from Kremenchug, Babakai Moiseevich Kogen, and from Bakhchisaray Yakov Iosifovich Katyk. At a secret meeting, it was decided to create a company for the production of cigarette cartridges.... The main figure in his business was Yakov Katyk... The partners added up their capital as follows: Erak - 4500 rubles, the second Erak - 250 rubles, and Ya. Katyk - too 250 rubles. Cohen, without investing anything, was responsible for production and sales, since he himself owned Gabai’s store selling cigarette products. In front of the notary, the gentlemen entered into the following agreement on the division of profits: 40%, of course, was taken by the owner of the fixed capital E. Erak, 25% went to Sar Erak, but 35% went to Y. Katyk.

Newly minted trading house received a certificate on April 25, 1905 at the Samara City Council. The seller Kogen was jubilant - cigarette cartridges with the emblem “Ya. Katyk and K sold with incredible speed. Wholesalers rushed into the office, production tripled and increased tenfold. Packaging “I. Katyk and K” filled the holds of steamships, packed freight cars and were transported throughout the country. Huge profits rained down into the bank accounts of craftsmen. In 1908, the company received the prestigious Grand Prix at the exhibition. On the emblem trademark a medal appeared. But then a wild scandal broke out.

It turned out that the company's success was due to some delicate circumstance. Since 1890, it operated in Moscow famous company for the production of cigarette sleeves “A. Katyk and Co.” It gained worldwide popularity and its products were preferred by outstanding Russian writers, politicians, and famous artists. She was mentioned in novels and poems. In one word, everyone knew “A. Katyk”. And so the consumer was hooked, thrown into the sea of ​​business by the talented rogue E. Erak. Nobody paid attention to the fact that instead of “A” there is “I” on the label. Otherwise, the trademarks were practically the same. When the Samara counterfeit fell into the hands of the Moscow merchant Abram Ilyich Katyk, he literally turned white with rage - I will incinerate, destroy, tear up, sue - the capital magnate shouted. Thus began a noisy process. The Samara office on Moskatelnaya was sealed, cartridges, boxes, labels, forms were seized, grief entrepreneurs were also detained, their accounts were frozen.... The lawyers raised all the laws of the Russian Empire and did not find a specific article condemning the use of trademarks by other persons in their business. Since Yakov Katyk really exists, then the company can be called after him. However, Abram Katyk’s lawyers referred to the fact that Yakov contributed only 250 rubles, and Erak 4,500 rubles, which means there was an obvious trick and intent. Interest was calculated in relation to the amounts charged as charges. They say the company should be called “Erak and Company”, and not “Katyk” at all, let this vile Erak try to sell cigarette cartridges under his own name.

Abram Katyk from Moscow demanded compensation until the start of World War I. However, he was told that Erak had died. When the bailiffs broke down the doors of the office, they found only empty rooms and several labels on the floor, as if thrown as souvenirs “Ya. Katyk and K.” Meticulous police picked them up from the floor, shook off the dust and pinned them to the court file. They still lie in the Samara archive, printed in red letters on glossy paper. Here they are, witnesses of past battles in the world of Samara entrepreneurship at the beginning of the century.

http://www.samaraart.ru/history/articles/?id=79

And here we have another example of funny Katykov advertising:

The old man stood, leaning on a stick, and in a low voice mockingly read Katyk’s call to smoke only his cartridges.
- Rogue! - the old man shouted angrily and waved his stick threateningly. - A rascal, but a smart fellow!
- Who are you talking about?
- About Katyk, your Majesty“, about the manufacturer Katyk,” the old man answered kindly: apparently, he was not averse to entering into a conversation.
I asked why Katyk is a scoundrel and a swindler.
- This story is very long...
... It was then that the rascal Katyk surfaced. He doesn't have enough shell casings and racing horses - he decided to mine salt in the bay, fortunately in winter the waves throw it ashore right in the mountains. Established for this purpose Joint-Stock Company, tricked everyone; does not export salt, but Kara-Bugaz received almost complete ownership from the government. That's why I say that this Katyk of yours is quite a scoundrel.....

Now a little politics and everything else

It seems to me that Tsar Ferdinand I would have given little to Brezhnev :)

The main Russian parliamentarian is a model of calm and order. Meanwhile, in the parliament of the second part of the dual monarchy, what is happening:

The stallion Trifle won a prize of more than ten thousand rubles... A trifle - 10,000 rubles - is not a trifle... The question is what to do :)

Katyk cartridges.
Advertising of cigarettes, cigarettes, tobacco.

The founder of the trading house Katyk Abram Ilyich (1860, Evpatoria - 1936, Moscow) was born into a poor Karaite family.

Together with his brother Joseph in the late 1880s. opened a cigarette-sleeve factory, which soon became the largest in Russia.

In the summer of 1891, Katyk, together with his fellow countryman Duvan, opened the famous tobacco factory "Dukat" (the name of this factory is derived from two surnames: DUvan and KATYK).

It is interesting that A.I. Katyk is the actual founder of the city of Shakhtersk. At the end of the 19th century, he bought land and opened the first coal mines in the area of ​​modern Shakhtersk.

After 1917 A.I. Katyk entered the Soviet service and served for several years commercial director in Sovpoltorg in Moscow, from where he was later fired.

His last years A.I. Katyk spent his time in need, which served the main reason his death.

Advertisement text: “IF CHILDREN SMOKE, and you cannot wean them off it either with requests or punishments, then advise them to at least smoke only Katyk Shells.”

Advertisement text: “I can’t find store-bought cigarettes to my liking, I’ll have to quit smoking,” many say. Here good advice. Let them choose the tobacco they like, buy Katyk cartridges and have them stuffed. Then they will smoke cigarettes to taste."

published in the magazine "Rodina" in 1910
Advertising text: "Wear good man in a poorly made dress: he will look disgusting. That's right! But try to stuff a bad cartridge with good tobacco: you will get a bad cigarette. Isn't that right? And therefore, if you want to have good stuffed cigarettes, then buy only Katyk cartridges."

published in the magazine "Niva" in 1910
Advertisement text: “Gotcha again. I like to smoke good cartridges and that’s why I entered the tobacco store yesterday and politely asked, “Give me a box of Katyk cartridges.” I came home, opened the package and saw that they had slipped a box of some other cartridges. Gentlemen who smoke, please Make sure that the box always bears the inscription KATYKA CASES."

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By clicking on the image or caption below, you will be taken to the section dedicated to the corresponding manufacturer.

In a residential area of ​​Kazan, the restaurant is not for ruble millionaires, but for billionaires. A bright building, next to an overpass - not to say that a palace is on the way. Carpets on the street, a cow with a calf and a parking lot, a doorman opens the door, staff dressed in the uniform of 22nd century steward guides, waiters complete with white signets, and a security guard with a whole hat. The show has begun!

Interior rich, beyond one style, the veranda is like a Malvina’s house, the main hall is more formal, the second is warmer, with photographs and sideboards. The main thing is that everything is rich, the key word is that it knocks, the dishes from a very interesting collection, even a tea cup so unusual, I have never seen it. A little unmetropolitan, but definitely pathos. I’m surprised, even though I read the site. With a menu.

Menu large, with national dishes in each section. You read, you think everything... and then there are further mentions of Tatar dishes. More. One of the most expensive restaurants I've been to in Russia. Most dishes cost twice as much as I'm used to seeing. 60 gr. roast beef for an appetizer - 1200 rubles, steak - 2400 rubles, regular manti - 800 rubles. I asked the taxi driver: no, we have more expensive restaurants. But manti, sir, manti...

Everything is good here except control. You feel like you're in the Gulag. Twice the security guard CALLED and then the admin came to ask why I was taking pictures with my phone? Not guests and a wedding, but a pie and a cow at the entrance. Are people stuck in the last century, when there were no social networks, or the century before last, when there were no cameras, people did not travel? We have to explain that “just imagine, now it’s common to photograph travel, you know, trips to the store, cats and baby cats? Or maybe you were taking pictures on the beach in Turkey, and if there are problems, I can leave right now.” Apparently, I was able to prove my right to footage of my lunch.

The first complement was katyk in a cup with fried cheese, I decided to mix it - it turned out very well. You need to find out exactly what this cheese is called, fry it at home and grate it, add it to thick St. Petersburg kefir. The second - mini versions of three national pies - is a complete failure. Refrigerator cold, sticky and dead. The bread was served in pieces, it was also not a fountain, it looked too much like ready-made bread. It was better not to give both. But tea with huge dried fruits, a “lemon squeezer” and jam.

Soup kiyau pilmyane (400 rubles) - Groom’s dumplings (I told the legend in my review of “D.T.K.”) in a wonderful broth. I don’t remember when I ate better, and the dumpling crumbs were masterful. Sour cream on every spoon, and the broth becomes softer...

Samsa with lamb (65 rubles) is slightly different than the Uzbek one, the dough is thinner, it’s easy to tear on the back side. Not bad, but I prefer the coarser and fattier “boxes”, Uzbek dar.
Gubadiya (60 rubles) rice and raisins - what a joy. The balance makes for a very simple product.

Before the basics, “beauty” is served with the comment “this is an additional side dish for the basics” - a strange thing - an egg salad, two quails, red crisp, fennel and cherry on a transparent pedestal with smears of cake cream. I don’t quite understand, but the class needs to be justified with these extras. Azu (RUB 750) is unusual and unexpected - a modern bowl with thinly sliced ​​meat and vegetables, equally divided, in the best gravy. Simply the best. When they made the basics in St. Petersburg, in Soviet canteens, didn’t they stuff the meat with pickles before stewing? I remembered this version from the previous era. Tasty? Very. Simple, easy to break down into products, but absolutely wonderful. Somewhat universal in its tradition, but I have no complaints.

Total. I don’t think there is any need to explain why I didn’t go a second time. After the described incident at the Insomnia restaurant, such humiliating showdowns did not happen to me, they did not ask me why I was photographing my pie. A place with an average bill of 4,000 rubles. must be impeccable and must be left with complete satisfaction. Two tables were occupied that day. I think there are more rich people in Kazan. What's the matter? An expensive restaurant, but they try to justify these prices with attitude, ritual, portions, excess quality. For example, tea, as it should, is filled with boiling water every time. We poured it into a mug, the wet brew remained, I went to the kitchen to add it for another mug: it shouldn’t take an hour to over-infuse the brew.

Restaurant address: Kazan, Amirkhana st., 31

In the early 1970s, Svyatoslav Richter and Nina Dorliak settled on the sixteenth floor of building 2/6 on Bolshaya Bronnaya Street, not far from the Conservatory. This house is typical brick tower. But when you go upstairs and enter the apartment, you find yourself in a special world. No luxury, no fuss of things. In everything you can feel the character and lifestyle of the owner, the special energy of a person whom Yuri Bashmet calls “the safe-conduct of truth in art.” In a large room, called the hall in the old days, Richter practiced himself or rehearsed with other musicians. There are two Steinway&sons pianos, two antique Italian floor lamps donated by the mayor of Florence, a tapestry, and paintings. Auditions of operas or viewings of favorite films took place in the hall. In the office, or, as Richter himself called this room, “the closet,” there were cabinets with books, records, and cassettes. The most valuable thing here is a cabinet with sheet music, on which the maestro’s notes have been preserved. There is also a wooden figurine of the Infant John the Baptist, this is a memory of the Musical Festivals organized by Richter in Touraine in France. On the wall there is a plaster counter-relief with the profile of Boris Pasternak from the monument in Peredelkino - like an imprint, a trace left by a person on the earth, a wonderful image found by Sarah Lebedeva. Nearby hangs a small landscape of Saryan, a gift from Elena Sergeevna Bulgakova. The secretary contains the manuscript of Sergei Prokofiev's Ninth Sonata, dedicated to Richter, a photograph of Heinrich Neuhaus, a drawing by Picasso, and Solzhenitsyn's "Little Girls". This was Richter’s social circle. The “Green Room” is a relaxation room; on concert days it turned into an artistic room. On the wall hangs a portrait of his father, Teofil Danilovich, an elegant, reserved man. He graduated from the Vienna Conservatory as a pianist and composer. Teofil Danilovich and Anna Pavlovna (Svyatoslav’s mother) were unable to leave Odessa in 1941, when Nazi troops were approaching the city. Teofil Danilovich was arrested and executed on the night of November 6–7 as a “German spy.” Anna Pavlovna went to Romania, and then to Germany, forever leaving Russia and her only son, who at that time was in Moscow and was also awaiting arrest. They met only 20 years later. Svyatoslav Richter’s artistic interests and passions were varied; he not only loved painting, but was also an artist himself. His pastels are displayed in a small room. In them, Robert Falk noted the “amazing sensation of light.” In Nina Lvovna’s former kitchen there are photographs telling about the musician’s life.

home » Useful » Restaurant critic: restaurant “Katyk. Father Nikita Storozhev, first priest of the village of Northern Katyk Gilzy Katyk