We build a chicken coop for broilers on our own. We build a chicken coop for broilers in the country for the summer Do-it-yourself chicken coop for broilers drawings

The price of a finished chicken coop starts from 20 thousand and can reach up to 600 thousand rubles. It is clearly unprofitable for an amateur farmer to spend such money on a place to keep birds. Is it possible to save money and build a reliable poultry house on your own? Of course, if you take into account the recommendations from our material. We tell you what and how to make a chicken coop for broilers with your own hands.

Features of the chicken coop for boilers

A poultry house or chicken coop is a building in which domestic chickens live. It should provide the birds with the necessary conditions for keeping: warmth, cleanliness, space for life and recreation. If the poultry house is bad, the livestock will get sick, slowly gain weight and eventually bring losses to its owner. Therefore, special attention must be paid to the design: saving on materials, neglecting details will lead to sad consequences.

Chickens are raised for eggs and meat: the first type is called "laying hens", the second - "broilers". Laying hens and broilers require different conditions of detention, respectively, and poultry houses for them will be different.

Characteristic features of chicken coops for broilers:

Compactness. Broilers are restricted in movement so that they gain weight faster.
You don't need nests to incubate eggs.
Insulated walls. Broilers are especially sensitive to drafts and cold, so their permanent residence must be protected from this threat.
artificial lighting. Electric wires are isolated from chickens.
Ventilation. Moisture is contraindicated for chickens, so it is necessary that the room dry out without drafts.
To maintain light and heat, electric lamps are required.

Next to the chicken coop, if space permits, you need to equip an aviary for walking. One bird needs 4 sq.m. The aviary is protected with a net: so that the chickens do not run out, and predators and wild birds do not get inside.

If there is no space for an aviary, you can replace it with walking tunnels. These are pipes laid along the site. Their diameter should be 60-80 cm so that the chickens move freely. It is better to assemble the tunnel from segments so that if necessary it is easy to disassemble it: to get a lost bird or remove dirt.

The space required by the birds increases in proportion to their growth. If on the first day of life 30 chickens fit comfortably on 1 square meter, then after 55 days (slaughter time) - only 6 birds.

Chicken coop for broilers can be summer and winter

DIY construction

Farmers are interested in building a poultry house with their own hands, because the cost of a finished chicken coop is very high: from 20 to 600 thousand rubles. Few people are willing to spend that kind of money on a place for birds, such expenses can reduce the economic meaning of the activity of an amateur farmer to zero. In addition, it is realistic to build chicken coops for broilers on your own, even if you have never done anything like this. The main thing is to arm yourself with knowledge, draw up a competent project and bring it to life.

Construction will go through the following stages:

Goal setting. We determine whether a summer or winter chicken coop is required, how many birds are planned to be kept, whether they will be broilers or laying hens.
Collection of theoretical information. We collect information about the requirements for chicken coops, features of materials and other valuable information.
Definition of building materials and tools. Buying, renting - it is more profitable to rent some of the tools if you do not have them available.
Drawing up a project. Ready-made drawings are taken as a basis, for example, from the section of the same name below.
Foundation laying.
Construction of walls and roofs, interior decoration, insulation.
Connection to electricity.
Arrangement of an aviary or walking tunnels.
Settlement of chickens.

Let's take a closer look at the key steps.

Choice of materials and tools

The materials that the chicken coop builder will use are divided into 3 groups:

for the foundation;
for walls;
for warming.

The foundation is necessary for the construction, because it creates the necessary temperature conditions in the room and guarantees the birds protection from the cold and rodents. It is worth building a strip foundation: a contour of reinforced concrete or wooden beams. The width of the walls of the foundation should not be narrower than the width of the walls being erected, otherwise excess pressure will be created. A chicken coop with a foundation will last much longer than any non-monumental structure.

A chicken coop can be built from wood. brick, foam blocks or shell rock

Building materials for the poultry house must guarantee the inhabitants warmth and strength so that the owner does not spend time and money on repairs. For the construction of walls are used:

tree or timber - for lovers and summer chicken coops for broilers;
shell rock - limestone rock, is a rectangular block, suitable for chicken coops for 25-30 birds;
brick - for capital structures and livestock over 50 chickens;
foam concrete - for poultry houses of any size, winter and summer.

Block materials simplify and speed up construction. The standardized block size allows beginners to design and build objects without major difficulties.

A wall of any material will have to be insulated. Chickens are very thermophilic. A consistently high temperature guarantees healthy growth and the absence of disease. The most profitable solution for insulation will be foam: it is inexpensive, while it has low thermal conductivity, which means it will keep warm inside. Expanded clay, hay and sawdust, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, stizol can be an alternative. It is not allowed to combine different materials for insulation, for example, insulate the floor with expanded clay, and the walls with expanded polystyrene.

The choice of tools depends on the selected materials. The standard list includes:

shovel;
manual drill;
hacksaw;
construction stapler;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
mixer for concrete;
level;
roulette;
rope.

Drafting a project

Before developing a project, the farmer sets goals: determines the number of birds, the type of structure (capital or non-capital, summer or winter), the desired materials and estimated costs. Broiler coop size is key. It is tied to the number of birds in the livestock.

The number of birds that fit on 1 square meter of the chicken coop depends on their age:

1 day - 30-32;
5 days - 22-25;
10 days - 19-20;
15 days - 18-19;
20 days - 17;
25 days - 16;
30 days - 13;
35 days - 12;
40 days - 10;
45 days - 8;
50 days - 7;
55 days - 6.

When developing a project, it is important initially choose the right place for the construction of the structure:

poultry houses are not suitable for lowlands and noisy places in the area of \u200b\u200bhighways;
it is impossible for the structure to stand in a place where melt and rain water flows;
the best solution would be a flat area on a hill or slope;
birds need silence, they are afraid of noise and loud sounds;
chickens benefit from sunlight, position the structure so as to ensure maximum intake;
the place must be isolated from the wind.

Warm winter chicken coops build on concrete foundation

building

How to make a chicken coop for broilers with your own hands? Construction will begin with the pouring of the concrete foundation. It sounds expensive and complicated, but you can't do without it. The monumental foundation will protect the future inhabitants from the cold, drafts and rodents. For the construction, they dig a trench at least 30 cm deep, install the formwork and pour concrete inside. The foundation should stand for at least 3-4 days: this way it will get stronger and provide the structure with the necessary strength.

Some do without a foundation, especially when it comes to a summer house with wooden walls. True, upon contact with the ground, the tree will inevitably begin to get wet and rot rather quickly. To prevent this, cover the bottom of the walls with iron.

After the construction of the foundation, they begin to build walls and roofs. The order of work depends on the selected materials and the complexity of the design. The most convenient are bricks and block materials: it is easier and faster to build even walls of the desired height.

Walls, floors and roofs are insulated. The materials are described above. You can’t do without warming: chickens are very thermophilic. At the same stage, all cracks are closed and drafts are prevented. When the "box" is ready, you can mount perches, install feeders and drinkers.

Then the building is connected to electricity. Ventilation is installed in advanced poultry houses. At the final stage, an aviary is equipped.

Internal work

warming;
installation of perches, feeders and drinkers.

We have repeatedly stressed how important insulation is. Don't neglect this step. Even if there is not much money for building a chicken coop, do not be too lazy to make at least an economical option: hay, straw in briquettes, sawdust, expanded clay.

As for the placement of perches, that is different variants and schemes. The optimal height is 60 cm.

Chicken coop drawings

See examples of drawings in the images below. Sizes shown are guidelines only. You can adapt them to own situation: just recalculate the values proportionally.

Chicken coop drawing No. 1

Chicken coop drawing No. 2

Chicken coop drawing No. 3

Chicken coop drawing No. 4

Litter selection

The arrangement of the floor is fundamentally important in chicken coops for laying hens. For broilers, a light, uninsulated floor is enough, since they spend most of their time in one place and move little. As a rule, the floor is covered with wooden flooring and covered with straw, peat, dry leaves, fallen needles or wood shavings. It is important to maintain cleanliness at all times, otherwise infections will spread in the house.

The bedding material must meet 3 criteria:

contribute to easy cleaning;
be safe for birds;
inexpensive to manage the owner (preferably free).

Each material needs some preparation. For example, fallen needles must be ground up, because whole needles can harm chickens. Only needles with a minimum content of essential oils and volatile substances are suitable for bedding: they are harvested in November.

Rodent protection

You can find out about the penetration of rats into the chicken coop by the following signs:

holes in walls and floors;
holes in bags with feed and grain;
the smell of ammonia;
small black excrement.

At the construction stage, it is necessary to ensure the strength and integrity of the entire structure, to get rid of cracks and passages. The foundation, block materials for walls and thorough insulation will help. If the walls and floor are secure, the rats will not be able to get to the birds.

A rather interesting way to deal with rats in a chicken coop is to get a cat. It will handle 2-3 rats perfectly and keep the birds safe. Even the smell of a cat scares away rats, so the problem will be solved pretty quickly. Another option is other poultry, such as geese. If a rat gets into the barn at night, the geese will start to cackle and tell you about strangers. Some farmers manage to train hedgehogs and dachshunds to fight rats.

Traps and mousetraps should be approached with caution: they are no less dangerous for the inhabitants of the chicken coop themselves. The same applies to poisons that can accidentally kill birds.

If these methods do not help, install an ultrasonic repeller in the chicken coop. It works with a 100% guarantee: it gives the rats great discomfort and makes them leave the room. At the same time, man and birds do not hear him. You can set a timer on the repeller so that it automatically turns on at night and turns off in the morning.

Conclusion

Self-construction of a poultry house is within the power of even a novice farmer and will help him save tens of thousands of rubles. Preference should be given to block materials - shell rock or foam concrete - they speed up the construction and guarantee the strength of the structure. In a chicken coop, broilers need electricity: chickens need extended daylight hours. There is no need to develop the project yourself. You can download a suitable drawing with all sizes from our material.

Breeding laying hens, broilers and other breeds of birds is a very profitable and profitable business.

But in order for this business to give its results, it is necessary to properly conduct natural breeding, to ensure comfortable conditions cage or floor keeping of birds, takes care of proper feeding.

Many farmers prefer self-manufacturing chicken coop.

Firstly, it is more economical than buying a ready-made building for keeping broilers or laying hens.
Secondly, a do-it-yourself built structure will be a durable and reliable option.
Thirdly, you will calculate the parameters based on the number of individuals that will be grown.

There are several differences in keeping chickens and broilers. Laying hens are mainly bred for egg production, and broilers for meat production. Based on this, the growing conditions and options for chicken coops differ.

Large space;
Absolute absence of drafts;
A place in a room where the sun's rays do not fall;
Comfortable floor.

The structure for breeding broilers differs from the dwelling of laying hens in the following factors:

Minimum space;
Good lighting;
Warm room;
Location for cells.

Not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

Before you start building a chicken coop, you need to know the main features of broiler breeding.

Drinkers and feeders should be located different sides rooms.
Initially, it is necessary to install electric lamps to maintain heat and light in the chicken coop.
The temperature regime for chickens should not be lower than 35°C, and for broilers that have reached 15 days of age - not lower than 18°C.

When starting construction, be sure to draw up drawings of a chicken coop for broilers.

Remember that the birds should be comfortable, so observe the features of the chicken coop for broiler chickens.

VIDEO STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

For the construction of a chicken coop, ordinary wooden planks however, it is acceptable to use brick or other building materials. You can not do without concrete for the foundation, fasteners, insulation, roofing material.

Stage 1 - designing a chicken coop.

The development of the project involves determining the size of the future chicken coop. The recommended formula for calculating area is at least one square meter per four birds. When designing a structure, it is important to take into account the number of chickens that will live in it, as well as the features of the building materials used.

For the construction of the building, it is better to choose a place on a hill so that the water flows down during the rain and does not flood the house.

Stage 2 - foundation pouring.

Pouring a concrete foundation is necessary to protect birds from uninvited guests - dogs, cats, rodents. It is necessary to dig a trench and install a wooden formwork about 30 cm deep. Concrete is poured inside and left for several days.

If the building is planned to be used only in spring and autumn, you can use a lightweight version of the tape 20 cm deep and 10 cm wide.

If you want to save money, you can do without a foundation at all, but in this case, the walls should be light, for example, made of wood. True, due to the contact of the tree with moisture and earth, the structure will rot.

Stage 3 - building a chicken coop.

For the construction of the chicken coop itself, timber, shell rock, brick and other durable materials are used.

In the case of a beam, the roofing material is first laid on the foundation, then the first crown is laid out, connecting the ends of the beams.
Next, lay the logs on the edge every 50 cm.
The space between the lags is filled with insulation.
Then the floorboards are laid according to the tenon-groove fastening method.

During construction, it is important to take into account a number of points.

First of all, it will be necessary to apply a lime mortar or antiseptic to the walls to prevent the growth of bacteria and germs.
It is important to take care of high-quality ventilation in order to avoid high humidity. To do this, it is important to make windows, they will also provide natural light.
In winter, an additional installation of artificial light will be required, the calculation is five watts per square meter of area. For this, energy-saving, fluorescent, LED lamps are suitable.
The roof of the chicken coop can be a simple shed, but it is better to build a gable roof. It more reliably protects chickens from hypothermia and overheating, reduces heat loss in winter, while not retaining snow and moisture, and in the resulting additional space between the roof and ceiling it is convenient to store inventory and tools.

Stage 4 - arrangement of the chicken coop inside.

First of all, you need perches for laying hens or shelves for broilers. At the same time, it is important for each chicken to provide enough space - 30 cm on each side. The total length of perches or shelves is calculated based on the number of chickens.

Perches should be comfortable so that the birds do not touch each other and are not injured.

To do this, you can take bars with a rectangular section.
The height from the floor must be at least 60 cm.
Between perches or shelves you need to withstand about 50 cm.
You can not place them strictly on top of each other.

Stage 5 - chicken coop insulation.

In the winter season, the birds should be comfortable, so a tambour is needed in the chicken coop.

The walls are sheathed with insulation, and a heater is used for heating. In this case, the wires must be protected from chickens.

To keep indoors optimum temperature(not lower than 15C), it is necessary:

use solid walls with a thickness of at least 20 cm,
insulate floors and walls, roofing,
eliminate cracks, holes, rat passages.

From heating equipment it is allowed to use:

electric radiators (to turn on at night or in extreme cold),
small stoves with a chimney (not the safest option),
infrared lamps,
water boiler stove,
fan heater.

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

Helpful Hints:

feeders and drinkers should be placed at a sufficient distance from the floor, kept clean and tidy,
it is recommended to lay sawdust, straw and sand on the floor and change them regularly,
in the corner you need to put a dark-colored box with sawdust so that the chickens in it feel comfortable and rush better,
if you make a sloping floor, water will drain along with rubbish during tidying,
the area for walking should be near the chicken coop,
the area around it should be fenced off to ensure the safety of birds.

Thus, it is quite possible to build a comfortable, warm and comfortable chicken coop with your own hands, in which the birds will rush well.

Broilers are special meat broilers, a feature of which is a quick weight gain with intensive fattening.

Broiler chickens can be kept in a chicken coop in two main ways:

The floor method implies the presence of broilers and is most often used in small subsidiary farms with a livestock of up to 30 birds. With cage content, the chicken coop can be smaller, but equipped with a good system.

The main building blocks of a chicken coop are:

covered area;
Tambour;
Aviary.

The room is the main structural element, the aviary and vestibule can be completed later.

Building Requirements

A chicken coop intended for year-round rearing of broiler chickens must meet the following requirements:

Security;
The presence of a foundation and thermal insulation;
The presence of a ventilation system and;
Elevated location.

A building, especially made of wood, must be built in compliance with fire safety rules. It is not recommended to use wood or combined stoves for space heating, and there should be no protruding nails or wire inside, which chickens can get hurt on. and the foundation of the room should not be accessible to the entry of mice or mice that will steal and spread the infection.

The year-round room should not be cold, have drafts and / or cracks. The area of the ventilation windows should be at least 1/12 of the floor area of the chicken coop (if a through ventilation system is used).

The drawing of the building is drawn up taking into account the number of chickens that are planned to be raised.

There should be no more than 4 broilers per square meter of the chicken coop with the floor method of growing, and no more than 12-18 broilers with the cellular method.

When choosing a place to build, it is important to consider following points:

The chicken coop should not be located in a lowland;
The place of construction should be away from the roadway and noisy places;
Windows and the south side should not be shaded by buildings or large trees.

Rain and melt water accumulate in the lowlands, so when the chicken coop is located in such a place, the floor inside will be constantly damp and moldy. The best location of the building is on a small, flat hill, with the enclosure turned to the southeast. Many breeds of meat chickens do not respond well to loud sounds, get nervous and, therefore, the place where the chicken coop should be built should be quiet.

Chicken coop insulation

Warming a room for chickens is necessary for the following purposes:

To reduce heating costs;
To ensure rapid weight gain for broilers;
To prevent colds and other diseases of chickens associated with cold.

It is best done during the construction process, which will save material and time. The floor, walls and ceiling of the building need insulation.

The basic principle of insulation is the creation of a layer of heat-insulating material in the thickness of the wall or floor, which will keep heat in the room. It is also important to avoid drafts and cracks.

When building a wooden chicken coop, as a heat-insulating material, the following is suitable:

Mineral wool;
Polymer filler;
Foam or foam blocks.

If a ready-made (not insulated) room is converted into a chicken coop, then it can be sheathed from the outside with briquettes made of pressed straw or cotton wool.

For floor insulation, you can use deep bedding in which, due to the decomposition of organic substances, heat is released into the room. Such bedding is made from hay or straw mixed with sawdust or peat. The height of the deep litter is 30-40 cm, it changes every year or two. The farmer needs to remember that the use of deep litter is inevitably accompanied by the accumulation of toxic ammonia fumes due to poultry excretions, so there must be a mechanical ventilation system in the chicken coop.

Lighting and ventilation

The ventilation system can be three types:

window;
From plastic pipe;
Mechanical.

With a window type, openings are installed in the room on opposite sides, which open at the same time at certain hours and provide blowing of stagnant air.

Ventilation from a plastic pipe involves the installation of two vertical pipes in the ceiling holes, one of which will reach almost to the floor, and the other will stick out of the ceiling by 30-50 cm. The principle of operation of such ventilation is based on the ability of heated air masses get up. So, heated air, together with ammonia vapor and carbon dioxide, will exit the short upper pipe, and instead of it, it will flow through the long pipe Fresh air.

The mechanical type is electric fans located in wall openings or ceiling. This type of ventilation requires energy consumption, but allows you to quickly and effectively get rid of stale air. The mechanical method can be combined with others by embedding fans in vertical pipes or window openings.

Many hours of light is essential for broilers, as extended daylight hours increase appetite and encourage hens to feed, leading to rapid weight gain.

Suitable for lighting:

Incandescent lamps;
LED lamp.

Fluorescent lamps and "energy-saving" bulbs in the form of spirals made according to the same principle are not recommended because of the flicker imperceptible to the eye at a frequency of 60 times per second. Such flickering has a bad effect on the well-being of chickens, they lose their appetite and become pugnacious, which does not contribute to their rapid fattening. In addition, if the chickens peck at these lights, the coop will be contaminated with mercury, which will make the chickens sick for the next few months.

Incandescent lamps require a significant amount of electricity, since most of the electricity is converted into heat. LED lamps will allow you to well sanctify the chicken coop, and their low level of electricity consumption makes them possible to be powered by solar panels on the roof of the chicken coop.

For every 5 square meters of chicken coop area (with a building height of 2 meters), there should be one 100 W incandescent lamp or one 11 W LED lamp.

How to build a chicken coop for broilers

Tools and materials

For the manufacture of a wooden insulated chicken coop, designed to keep 20 broiler chickens, you will need:

Cement and bricks for the foundation;
Crushed stone or pebbles;
Wooden beam 100x100 mm;
Beam 100x50 for log;
Planed board 15-20 mm thick;
Mineral wool;
Metal fasteners in the form of brackets;
Metal profile;
Nails and screws;
Construction level;
Drill with a screwdriver;
Saw and hammer;
Roulette;
Ruberoid;
Resin for construction;
Foil insulation.

Instead of mineral wool, you can use another insulation. If the construction is carried out using sandwich panels, insulation is not needed. Metal brackets are designed for additional fastening of load-bearing beams and must be at least 3 mm thick and 50-100 mm wide.

Step-by-step instruction

Before making a building, you must select a place and make a drawing. For a chicken coop designed for 20 broilers, the scheme shown in Figure 1 is suitable.

Construction should begin with the preparation of the foundation.

It is better to use a columnar or pile foundation for a chicken coop, since a strip foundation will require significant costs and its use for small buildings is impractical.

To create a foundation in the form of a columnar foundation, you must:

Mark a place for a chicken coop on the ground;
Make marks at the corners of the future chicken coop and along its perimeter every one and a half to two meters;
In the marked places, dig holes 0.5 meters deep and 0.4-0.6 meters wide;
In dug pits, lay square columns of brick or cinder block, fastening the blocks with cement mortar;
Let the cement dry, then fill the space between the pit and the posts with gravel or gravel.

Instead of brick columns, concrete mixed with crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 3 can be poured into the dug pits, having previously lowered several bars of reinforcement into the foundation pit for strength. For installation pile foundation marking is done in the same way, only instead of digging holes, the piles are simply screwed into the marked places.

After the foundation has dried, you can proceed directly to the construction. To build a building you need:

Lay square sheets of roofing material on the foundation columns;
Install supporting horizontal beams from a 100x100 beam, fastening them together, as shown in Figure 2;
Supplement the fastening with brackets, attaching them to self-tapping screws;
Install four vertical support beams from a 100x100 bar at the corners of the future chicken coop;
Fasten the vertical beams with temporary boards from above to secure their position;
Attach the vertical beams to the horizontal beams using a beam located at an angle of 45 degrees so that each of the four bearing pillars is held by two fastening beams, the opposite ends of which rest on the horizontal beams;
Strengthen the horizontal upper beams on which the roof will rest;
Make rafters for a slope from a 100x50 timber by sawing them at an angle of 30 degrees, and then connect them on the upper horizontal beams as shown in Figure 3.
Lay a 100x50 timber on the lower beams with an edge horizontally every 0.5 meters (sex logs);
Lay the space between the lags with insulation;
Lay the floorboards on the logs and attach them with nails or self-tapping screws;
Revet with a board outside the walls of the chicken coop;
Attach a beam vertically from the inside of the wall every 0.5 meters, by analogy with floor lags;
Lay insulation in the openings in the wall and secure it with knitting wire;
Expand the rolls of reflective foil and attach them to the walls on the insulation, starting from the top;
Pin the lining boards to the reflector from the inside;
Lay the boards on the roof under the slopes;
Lay the roof surface with sheets of roofing material;
Put tiles or slate on the installed rafters, leaving space for vertical ventilation;
Lubricate all the cracks inside the room with a sealing mixture;
After the sealant dries, treat the wood from the inside with a moisture-proof solution, and after it dries, cover the walls and floor with a lime solution;
Let the lime dry, after which you can equip the room and fill up the litter.

Instead of a vertical beam in the walls, you can use a metal profile in order to save material. When installing load-bearing beams, it is important to check their levelness with a level. According to a similar scheme, only without laying insulation, a 1x1 meter vestibule is built on the outside of the door, the purpose of which is to prevent heat from leaving the room in winter.

Common Mistakes

When designing and building a chicken coop for broilers, many make mistakes, which sometimes lead to the need to redo the entire structure.

The first mistake relates to the choice of a place to build. A farmer, trying to choose a hill, often builds a chicken coop on too small a mound so that the walls of the chicken coop are almost flush with the ramp. In such buildings, parts of the foundation are often washed away, in addition, such a chicken coop cannot be expanded due to outbuildings.

The next common mistake is the lack of protection against rats and mice. By building a chicken coop directly on the ground and not making a protective distance between the soil and the bottom layer of insulation, poultry farmers not only expose the chicken coop to the possibility of flooding, but also open up access for rodents to it, as they easily gnaw through a tree.

Experienced poultry farmers recommend that the lower part under the floor insulation between the foundation pillars be filled not with crushed stone, but with broken glass - this will not allow rodents to dig.

The next most common mistake is using the wrong building materials. For cladding not recommended to use:

Drywall;
Isoplat;
PVC plastic.

Nowadays, not only large-scale production, but also private small farms can be engaged in growing broilers. Moreover, the result of the content will be very successful if the farmer manages to create the right conditions for living for meat chickens. In this article, we will talk about how to build a reliable chicken coop in a short time and organize a positive microclimate inside.

Broiler breeding methods

When planning the breeding of meat-producing chickens at his dacha, the owner, first of all, evaluates the allocated area for future maintenance. Considering all the nuances, one of two methods of the process is determined: floor or cellular.

Did you know? To date, it is not known exactly in which century people started the process of domesticating wild chickens. However, there are 3 popular versions, the first of which says that everything began in China 6 thousand years BC. e. Another point of view insists that this happened 2 thousand years ago in India, the third is that the country “pioneer” of domestic laying hens Asia (3200 thousand years BC).

The floor breeding method is successfully used both in personal small farmsteads and in large industrial meat production.
Positive sides:

each individual is on constant review of the farmer, access to them is unlimited;
hygiene in maintenance, simplicity in veterinary control;
active mobility of broilers reduces the risk of carcass defects;
space in movements allows birds to take sun and air baths, find additional nourishing complementary foods (insects, fresh plants);
lack of stress;
low cost, simplicity and maximum availability of equipment.

Negative points:

reduced economic return (compared to the cellular method);
a noticeably slower set of bird mass;
ineffective use of the usable area of the barn.

The most common "Cage" method involves keeping birds in special containers (cages), which can be designed at your discretion in several tiered layers, which significantly increases your livestock by two or even three times.

But the approach is not without some drawbacks, which a beginner poultry breeder must be aware of. Let's go in order.

About the merits:
significant savings in space, heating, lighting and ventilation;
the possibility of daily cleaning of the litter. Broilers do not crawl on dirty litter, do not consume their excrement and do not breathe ammonia fumes, which significantly reduces the risk of mass infection of livestock with pathogenic bacteria;
the most efficient consumption of food, individuals are not able to scatter food, absorbing it in the required volumes;
ease of cleaning and disinfection of feeders and drinkers;
rapid weight gain in birds due to significant restrictions in movements (in energy consumption);
limited contact with all livestock prevents the spread of serious viral diseases.

Disadvantages:
the cost of purchasing quality materials for cages or already made "boxes";
frequent disinfection procedure (after each chicken batch);
too fast and strong weight gain, and as a result, problems with the paws and cramps on the chest;
reduced palatability of meat than in individuals that are on floor breeding;
selection of balanced expensive food that covered gaps in nutrition (lack of protein and vegetable components obtained from self-caught food).

Distinctive features of a chicken coop for broilers

Reduced space requirements.
Two types of lighting: natural and artificial.
Comfortable floor coverings.
Places for cages.
Warm room.
Maximum ventilation of the house, no drafts.
No nesting sites required.
Feeders and drinkers are placed at different angles.

Chicken coop requirements

Just before building a reliable "housing" for broilers, the farmer needs to consider all future requirements necessary for the smooth functioning of the chicken coop.

Dimensions

Calculation of optimal parameters:

when planning three-tier structures, the height of the house should be 2–2.5 m. When installing one, 50-centimeter cage, at least 60 cm from the floor;
optimal width - 2.5 m (taking into account the width of the cage structures);
the minimum size of the vestibule is 1.5x1.5x2.
the parameters of the walking aviary (corral) vary depending on the number of broilers. 4 individuals - per 1 square. m.

Lighting

good option lighting in the chicken coop will be LED or incandescent lamps. Fixtures give a moderate and soft light, which, among other things, gives an additional heating effect.

The installation of devices should take place at the rate of: for every 5 sq. m. area (at a height of 2–2.5 m) - one incandescent bulb for 100 watts or one LED for 11 watts.

Important!It is not recommended to install electroluminescent lamps (energy-saving light bulbs) in the poultry house, as their flickering frequency of 60 times per 1 second negatively affects the health of the birds. They become too aggressive and in just a few days they lose their appetite intensely, which seriously impedes fast fattening.

Temperature and Humidity

Correct temperature regime in the poultry house provides a good weight gain for broilers and contributes to their good health.

As individuals “grow up” and gain weight, the indicators of the thermometer should correctly change:

In the first week of life of chickens, the temperature in the room should not fall below +30 degrees.
Chicks up to two weeks are set to +27 ... +28 degrees.
Three-week-old broilers will feel comfortable at temperatures from +21 to +24 degrees.
The temperature norm for monthly chicks is +20 ... +21 degrees.

In addition to temperature indicators, at the same time it is necessary to regulate the humidity in the room. With impaired air exchange in chickens, immunity will decrease, which will lead to problems with the gastrointestinal tract, metabolism and respiratory system. The norm of air humidity is up to 60%.

How to build a chicken coop for broilers with your own hands

It’s not so difficult to make “housing” suitable for growing broilers on your own, the main thing is to adhere to a pre-planned plan for choosing a place and prepare the necessary equipment. Also understand step by step how to qualitatively install internal coatings and the necessary structures.

Location selection

Choosing a place for location on the site of future construction should be meticulous, because the health and good weight gain of broilers also depend on this.

Basic requirements for the place:

the north side of the room should be tightly covered from cold winds by trees or other buildings;
the south side, on the contrary, suggests free space;
with uneven landscape parameters, the chicken coop should be placed on a hill. Lowlands tend to have elevated levels of dampness from groundwater, threatening broilers with wet, cold litter contaminated with disease-causing bacteria;
chicken "housing" should be built as far as possible from strong sources of noise, for example, from travel roads. Otherwise, chickens will experience frequent stress and gain weight poorly.

Materials and tools for work

Necessary materials:

6 used pipes (beam, round timber) - 80–100 mm;
mesh length - 9-10 m, height - 1.5-2 m;
metal corners 20 pcs. - 50x50;
beam 10 pcs. 3 m - 50x50;
slab (raw board) for overlapping 8 pcs. 4 m;
roofing material 1 roll - 10 m;
used slate - 7-8 sheets;
USB - 2-3 sheets;
2 old doors (for floor covering);
frame from an old sofa (for the front door to the chicken coop);
wood screws 20-40 mm (50/50 - 1 kg);
self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching the mesh to a tree) - 100 pcs.;
cement - 1 bag + sand and water for mortar;
additional timber for door installation;
bars (various) for finishing;
small door hinges - 8 pcs.;
corners for locks - 2 pairs;
small locks - 2 pcs.;
nails for slate - 20 pcs.;
carnations with a substrate (a couple of dozen) for attaching the roofing material to the lattice.

Instruments:

screwdriver;
welding machine (if the poles are metal, but not from a bar);
hacksaw;
level;
a hammer;
pliers, nippers.

Budget chicken coop for broilers: video

Step-by-step instruction

Put 6 metal racks (4 racks under the chicken coop and 2 under the canopy).
Cover the territory with a strong metal mesh tightly to the ground.
Weld the corners, respectively, to the pipes at a height from the ground - 15–20 cm, form a structure under the floor.
Form a room from prepared boards and doors (in accordance with the planned dimensions).
Under the roof, make 2 small windows on both sides, with USB and a latch, for ventilation in the summer and for keeping warm in the cold.
Install a ladder from the board for the free movement of birds from the chicken coop to the yard.
Place elongated wooden feeders inside the enclosure against the walls, attach drinkers to the net approximately 5 cm from the ground.
From above, securely cover the chicken "housing" with prepared sheets of slate and roofing material.
Build doors to a common aviary with a chicken coop (attach to 2 retaining loops and make a loop under the lock).
Make a separate entrance (attach a wooden door) directly to the chicken coop, for easy cleaning and disinfection.
Build a door for the exit of broilers to the walking yard.
In the presence of necessary materials and inventory, it is possible to build a reliable poultry house for broilers (for 50 individuals) in just one week.

The interior of the chicken coop

After the successful construction of the premises, you should proceed to the internal arrangement: form a warm litter, install feeders with drinkers and organize protection from winter cold and pest (rodent) invasions.

bedding

The floor covering in the chicken coop simultaneously performs several important functions:

creates thermal insulation of the floor;
material mixed with litter disinfects pathogenic bacteria;
protects chicken paws from dampness and cold.

It is not difficult to make a good bedding with your own hands, the main thing is that, as a result, the coating meets the basic requirements: dryness, moisture capacity, from crushed and environmentally friendly pure material, free of mold and toxic substances.

The unchanged and best material, as a rule, is sawdust, which for the first time is sprinkled with straw or peat chopped up to 5 cm. In summer, the thickness of the formed litter should be 6-10 cm, in winter - at least 15 cm.

Gradually, as the hens mature, new bedding is poured onto wet areas. Complete replacement flooring is made after reaching its thickness of 35 cm.

With the help of building up the litter, broilers can comfortably and productively sit out the winter colds characteristic of the middle lane, however, in addition to creating floor “protection”, you should think about the general insulation of the built poultry house:

The walls of the building are insulated with foam plastic, penofol, basalt or mineral wool.
Roof - felt, foam and waterproofing. Also, the roofing material laid earlier will serve as an excellent protection.

The process of warming the chicken coop should be done in advance, no later than September-October.

Rodent protection

The construction plan outlined earlier and step-by-step instructions provide for closed access to the chicken coop (due to a stretched mesh that fits snugly to the ground) for pest rodents, however, for the farmer, for complete confidence in protection, it does not hurt to follow a number of additional rules:

the door to the chicken coop should be tightly closed at night;
the room should be regularly ventilated;
it is necessary to timely clean and disinfect feeders and drinkers, general sanitization, removal of excess garbage;
good access to daylight and artificial light is important;
fragrant plants - chamomile, mint, wormwood should be laid out around the poultry house and the adjacent aviary;
hens should be fed outside, food supplies should not be left indoors overnight.

Installation of feeders and drinkers

Food equipment for meat-oriented chickens can be made from:

wood;
plastic;
nipple;
metal;
glass.

Main requirements:

bottom tightness;
smooth (polished) surface;
ease of cleaning and disinfection.

In summer, in hot weather, feeders and drinkers are installed outside, in an aviary. Mounting on a mesh fence, about 5 cm from the ground, would be ideal. This will prevent active individuals from jumping inside the containers, scattering food and polluting the water.

In winter, drinking and food equipment is located directly inside the chicken coop, and is attached to the walls of the building in the same way as in summer time to the fence.

So that snow does not accumulate on the roof of the house, and even the meager sun quickly warms it up, it must be gable and pointed.
To ensure optimal natural light in the chicken coop, windows should occupy at least 10% of the total wall area.
The material used to strengthen the walls must be characterized by increased moisture resistance, keep the warm microclimate inside the barn well and be impenetrable to rats and other pests.
For the successful rearing of broilers throughout the year, it is advisable to equip a separate vestibule in the chicken coop to limit the effect of cold drafts on the livestock.
In order for meat-producing birds to move freely around the corral, it is necessary to correctly calculate the territory, but do not exceed the space so that the individuals do not lose a lot of energy and actively gain weight.
The food should be as high-calorie and balanced as possible, and the diet should be regular. In the case of growing poultry for abundant meat production, the feeders should not be empty at all. Food must be given fresh, malnutrition disposed of. Water should be changed frequently, and drinking bowls should be treated with boiling water and potassium permanganate.

Drawings of a chicken coop for broilers

The best option for a poultry house for broilers, the parameters of which may vary depending on the number of individuals.

Drawing for 20 heads:
Thanks to the above and simple recommendations, anyone, even a novice farmer, will be able to build a reliable chicken coop for purchased broilers.

Did you know?Domestic chickens outnumber people on the planet by a ratio of 3:1.

With the strict implementation of all norms and rules, the birds will eventually enrich the owner with high-quality and tasty meat.

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